Tag Archive: Travel, travels


Lechon at Kakanin, Anytime!

Filed under: Food Trip, Philippine Travels — 4 Comments
March 11, 2011

Lechon or Roasted Pig

 

The celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain once visited the Philippines and tried our lechon. He then declared it is the best he has ever tried in all his travels.

 

This roasted pig adorns almost every buffet table as families and friends celebrate occasions from birthdays to anniversaries to graduations to weddings to baptisms to fiestas.   It is the equivalent of a royalty dish.   It is our Filipino equivalent to the American turkey,  or to the roast beef.    When lechon adorns a buffet table,  every Filipino starts thinking of having a feast.   And almost always,  the roasted and crunchy skin is the first to go.   Some stuff the roasted pig with various herbs and serve lechon without any dips, like the lechon from the Visayas, a group of islands south of Manila.  Others serve lechon with a dip of liver sauce (some sweet, some a little spicy),  or with a vinegar and soy sauce dip. We have heard of many tales of fatal heart attacks in many parties where the victims indulged of this cholesterol load.  You may say you can savor lechon and enjoy it at your own risk.   The health hazards are however set aside in favor of this savory meal.

 

Lechon Kawali or Wok-Fried Pork Chunks

 

Many restaurants serving Filipino dishes include lechon in its menu, but if you want to see the whole pig chopped up into half kilo or one kilo servings,  you may want to try going to Baclaran Church in Pasay-Paranaque along Roxas Boulevard (lining Manila Bay), or just try your luck in supermarkets with food stalls (like in SM Supermarket, Cash and Carry Supermarket) where lechon is available for take out .

 

Lumpiang Sariwa (Fresh Vegetable Roll)

Vegetable Dishes

 

To “ease” the guilt of that cholesterol load, you may order any of these vegetable dishes :

 

Pinakbet

 

Pinakbet or Pakbet :  this came from Northern Philippines but has somehow become a mainstay vegetable dish in many Filipino homes.   Vegetables include ampalaya (bitter gourd), squash, stringbeans, eggplant, and okra.   Some cook it a tad dry, others soupy, flavored with the very Filipino bagoong or shrimp paste. If you are a vegetarian, be sure to tell the waiter to have it cooked WITHOUT pork or any meat slices.

 

Bicol Express

 

Laing and Bicol Express :  From Bicol Region some 8 hours drive south of Manila,  this spicy dish is cooked in coconut milk.   Taro leaves are used for the laing and again, some cook it a bit dry or saucy.  Either way,  it is spiced up enough to make it a dish hailing from Bicol, which is famous for its peppery dishes.

 

Buko Chopsuey

 

Chopsuey :  If you are familiar with Chinese cuisine,  this is the same chopsuey which has become another Filipino favorite. In Bicol, there is a variation of the dish:  Buko Chopsuey.

Kakanin:  Bibingka, Puto Bumbong at Iba Pa

Bibingka

 

I live near the area of Greenbelt Makati where many trendy and gourmet restaurants can be found.   Italian, Greek,  Spanish,  American,   Chinese, Thai, Indian……….take your pick.   Among the Filipino restaurants ,  you can try the very established, not that expensive “Via Mare” .  Here, one finds the very Filipino rice cake called bibingka served either with our local buffalo cheese or salted egg,  fried noodles served with eggs, shrimps, squid, pork rinds called pancit luglug and again, the guinomis or halo halo.  Our local bread called pandesal is also available here, served with kesong puti which is the equivalent of the Italian mozzarrela, but way cheaper!   There are other rice cakes and desserts like puto bumbong (colored purple!) and palitaw which are all priced so reasonably I have to insist you try them all!  Most rice cakes are served with shredded coconut meat.

 

Puto Bumbong

Bibingkoy

 

Happy eating, everyone!

 

Have more cravings? More photos can be found in my TravelBlog site. 

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Craving For Bicolano Food?

Filed under: Food Trip, Philippine Travels — 11 Comments
March 8, 2011

Bicol Express. Sounds like a train to you?  That is exactly what it was.  The non-stop train from Manila going south to the Bicol Region is called Bicol Express. The train’s long gone,and many take the overnight buses now.  [As of end of June 2011, the PNR train from Manila to Naga resumed operations.] But the Bicol dish to which it gave its name, remains a favorite popular Bicolano dish.  In Albay, we tried this dish in 1st Colonial Grill in Legazpi City and in “Let’s Pinangat” , a roadside eatery in Camalig, Albay.

Traditional Bicol Cuisine

 

Quite distinct from the local cuisine found in other parts of the country, Bicol is famous for its spicy, coconut cream-based dishes.  Local folks here even eat raw “sili” (peppers) dipped in salt to go with their rice.  By itself, it is a meal.  Just watch them pop the “sili” into their mouths without touching their lips and following it up with rice scooped with their hands.

 

I’d say the Bicolano cuisine is truly local, “untouched” by Spanish and Chinese influences.  Coconuts abound in the area. So with the local peppers.  It is a natural consequence that their cuisine will use much of these local ingredients.  Bicol Express may have a very American sounding name, but I will venture to guess that it had a local name before the famous train plied the Manila-Bicol route.  “Laing” and “Pinangat” can only be Bicol as Bicol could be.  Both use homegrown ingredients like taro leaves, and of course the “sili” and coconut cream.  Back in Manila,  the laing — taro leaves stewed in coconut cream — is a regular vegetable dish in many Filipino restaurants.   But nothing beats eating it right here, cooked the traditional way.

Fusion Cuisine

Sili Shake, anyone? And there's Pili Shake too! (Try it at Bicol Blends Cafe)

Small Talk Cafe

 

Of late, many modern restaurants now fuse Western and Bicolano dishes.  Starting off with the milk shakes,  there is a joint called Bicol Blends right beside Hotel Amada and 1st Colonial Grill which serves modern-day fusion drinks for the adventurous.  Sili Shake and Pili Shake , to name a few.   And there’s Small Talk Cafe which serves up pizza and pasta fused with local dishes like pinangat and laing.  We tried the Laing Pizza where the laing or taro leaves look more like the regular pesto on a pizza.  But the laing pasta certainly has a very local, acquired taste.   I liked it, actually.   I could have also tried their Pili Basil Pasta, but there just isn’t any more room for more. For sure, I will have to also try Pasta Mayon when I head back in May.  Pasta Mayon is laing(again!)-filled ravioli with tuna sauce.  It is served in a way that it looks like a volcano with lava flowing.

 

Some Local Sweets and Pili Nuts

“Pili” is Bicol’s prized nut.  Slightly more expensive than almonds, but they are so good one shouldn’t leave the place without trying them.  You may find them in tetra paks, in plastic jars, in plastic sachets all over town.  We got ours from Albay Pili Nut Candy along Rizal Street.  It is reputed to be among the oldest pili stores, operating as a home business or cottage industry.

Sweetened or honeyed Pili Candies make for good desserts.  But if you want to try some street food, check out those roadside stalls selling guinamos which is mashed bananas and sinapot which is banana fritters.  You may also be interested how locals “bake” their rice cakes using only tin cans and charcoal.  You find many versions of the rice cakes in this rice-eating nation and Bicol has its own version, for sure.   All these rice cakes also make for good mid-day snacks or breakfast, and collectively go by the name “kakanin”which literally means “eats”.

Bon apetit! [:)]

More photos  can be found in this TravelBlog site. 


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Adrenaline High Even After A Week

Filed under: Philippine Travels — 3 Comments
March 7, 2011

 

It has been a week since my encounter with the whale sharks of Donsol, Sorsogon. Called “Butandings”, swimming with these gentle giants never prepare anyone for such an awesome experience. A week later, and I still dream of that animal experience. I still get a high just thinking about it .

 

 

For sure, I will be bringing my family to Barrio Dancalan in Donsol. To meet their butandings and mark that memory in their minds. A diesel attends into the vintage. The Butanding Festival in Donsol will be this April, but it won’t be till May before we get there. Let’s pray those sea pets are still there. I bet they would be. After all, those Donsol folks have been most kind to them, treating them like their pets.

 

Check out more photos in my TravelBlog site.  

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Randy: The Butanding Whisperer of Donsol

Filed under: Philippine Travels — 29 Comments
March 5, 2011

The Butanding Whisperer


His name is Randy. He hails from this very place that crosses the whale sharks’ migration highway. Randy has “known” these whale sharks since he was 12. He is now 31. I never asked, but I suspect Randy never had formal swimming lessons. Nor diving lessons. But he sure could hold his breath down there , donned only with his snorkeling equipment. When Randy barked “swim forward”, me and them boys were focused on only one thing. To see our first Butanding. After all, we have been waiting a good hour and were near frustration with one of the boys depressingly saying “I only need to see ONE…..” These boys were with another team the day earlier, and they have not been lucky. Today is their second attempt, and the overcast sky was no encouragement. You see, those butanding spotters find it doubly hard to see the “shadows” on a cloudy day like today.


When one of them prayerfully chanted “Butanding…….Butanding………Butanding”, Randy very ably balanced himself (while the boat is cruising) on the bamboo pole crossing the front of the boat and assisted the spotters. As we all chorused and chanted, the boat crew were so focused on their jobs. I admire their patience, their quiet competence. As if on cue, Randy gently reminded us to get ready on the left side of the boat. Frankly, I was so afraid I couldn’t balance myself sitting on the edge of the boat and would have jumped in before Randy’s signal. Mercifully, I was ready when Randy barked “JUMP”. We swam forward, or rather, Randy pulled me forward so I can “swim” in tandem with the boys. I’ve never been so excited in my whole life. What an adrenaline rush, just knowing a Butanding lurks beneath us. When Randy barked “Look down”, I almost panicked to see the Butanding right beneath me. Maybe 2-3 meters below me. I was so afraid my legs would touch its head and send the whale shark on a wild spree. I could see the 3 boys in our team swimming under me and beside the gentle giant, with good old me contentedly swimming over this unbelievably gentle sea creature.


If I could frame my feelings now, you would see a framed painting splashed with a quiet solitude, evoking a serenity heretofore unknown. I do not know how far we were from our boat. Who cares? Until I saw another man dive deeper under the whale shark , swimming along,as if reuniting with an old friend.  I recognize his swimming shorts. I know that pattern. And remembered they were Randy’s! So who’s swimming with me? I looked up to catch my breath to see the ends of those snorkeling tubes, as everyone in our team and those from another boat were busily watching the whale shark swim underneath us. It must have been a full minute, likely longer. But without Randy by my side, I cannot swim forward WITH the whale shark. By the time Randy came up, the Butanding gently showed its side and white underbelly as it dove deeper. Perhaps in search of it plankton meal. Our boat suddenly appeared from nowhere. Perhaps Randy gave the signal that our new friend has left us for his meal. The crew put out the rusty ladder for me to climb up as the other boys waited for their turn. I was onboard , happily watching each of the boys get on the boat, hugging Randy and jumping up and down with joy. I was still feeling “high” from the experience, and my mind captured those scenes way better than any camera could . Pure joy. Young men in their mid-20′s acting like little boys. Randy almost too shy as these 3 young men hugged him so tightly in gratitude for this awesome animal experience. Yes, that memory will stay in my mind for many, many years. Another “framed feeling” stored in my memory bank. Randy very kindly allowed us to have our 2nd and 3rd Butanding experience in the 3 hours that we rented the boat. The boys longed for a 4th and final encounter, as I opted out, quite happy with the 3 sightings. Randy stayed on the boat, hoping to get the Butanding to “show up” for the benefit of my new Nepalese friend, Ava, and Beth, both of whom chose to stay on the boat. Without the Butanding whisperers, the young men in our team came back empty-handed. But no way are they complaining. Three sightings in a couple of hours ain’t bad! Especially on a cloudy, rainy day like today. As for Ava, coming from a landlocked country like Nepal, this boat ride by itself is a most cherished adventure for her. Everybody happy!


As the boat sailed towards shore, the boys swapped stories of their experiences. One of them excitedly said that I was always on top of the whale shark. Thanks to Randy. I suspect the butanding stayed with us long enough because of Randy. They must be friends for 2 decades now. Perhaps playmates is the more appropriate word. This shy, quiet young man has been interacting with this whale shark since he was 12. When I asked him what he does off – season, Randy said he goes to Manila to work with a landscaping team. He does gardening. Talk about flora and fauna. He must really have a green thumb for the flowers, and a gray thumb for the whale sharks? I don’t know. But I truly, truly respect the quiet dignity and warm kindness of Randy and his crew. They took good care of us. Not much fanfare. No fuzzing over us. But we know they were all watching out for us. They all seem too shy. They love their butandings, knowing how much these sea creatures have improved their lives. The Donsol fisherfolks offered a safe harbor for these gentle giants, and they have been rightfully rewarded.

When you come to this area, be sure to make this one hour trip from Legazpi City to Donsol, Sorsogon. Best time is from November through May. I will most certainly go back, next time with my family. (I actually did, in late May. And my “elves” to this day talk animatedly of their whale shark encounter, as narrated in another blog) These fisherfolks make for a good example of ecotourism. And these Butandings with their broad, flattened heads and large, very terminal mouths with checkerboard patterns on their backs are truly a sight to behold. Very gentle, friendly and playful, allowing humans to swim and interact with them, as they gently glide alongside our boat. And while you’re here, be kind to this community of about 47,000 fishermen and farmers. They live off the livelihood gained from the Butanding phenomenon half of the year, and scrape a livelihood the remainder of the year. More so when the typhoons hit them. And they get it way too often to have a decent living. They never ask, nor do they even drop hints. But it will go a long way to help them with a more generous tip. After all, they deserve them. Treat these locals as you would treat a place where you would “park” your pets. You may not be around the whole time, but you draw comfort in the fact that there are guardians , caretakers and caregivers for your pets. The Butandings are here because these locals take good care of them and leave them unharmed. They play with them, interact with them. Despite the poverty, it never crossed their minds to harm these gentle creatures. Such kindness deserves to be rewarded. My Butanding Encounter is by far my most awesome animal experience. Another one off my bucket list. The idea of swimming with the graceful butandings is scarier than actually interacting with them. Really. I do not know if I’d say this same thing if I saw the Butanding we sighted open wide its big mouth. But there you go. Mouths closed, they are simply fascinating. Go!

Thanks to our Butanding Interaction Officer (B.I.O.) Randy!

More photos in my TravelBlog site.


************************************************************************************ Trivia

Butandings or whale sharks are vegetarians. They only eat plankton and krill, which are found abundant in the very very salty waters of Donsol. There is no report of whale sharks taking humans as prey!

Donsol is a quiet community of only 47,000 people. They live off farming and fishing until a big concentration of whale sharks were sighted in 1998, inviting the attention of WWF and ATF. The sightings changed the landscape and ignited an economic boom in the area. Whale sharks live over a hundred years old. “Puberty” at 20 years old!

Biggest fish in the world. They only measure from 15 ft. to as long as 40 ft. in length! Our boat can easily rest on it silvery, polka-dotted back. They swim near the surface, allowing the “spotters” to see their shadows. Donsol is now not only a feeding place or “dining area” for the butandings. Of late, they sighted baby whale sharks. That means, the place has now become a berthing ground for the butandings. Who knows where they go after May? Anybody’s guess. But the locals are confident they will come back, for yet another wholesome ecotourism adventure.

Most important trivia: You need not know how to dive nor swim to have a Butanding Encounter. Just be sure you have a good B.I.O. like Randy to swim with you, and PULL you towards the nearest Butanding. You may reach Randy with this number : +63910 5485647.  

Btw, Randy took a “summer job” or should I say “gap job” as a messenger. When I told him to see my friend for an interview, it was  a stormy day and there were no boats from the island where he lives (last barangay in Donsol, he says) and Randy had to walk 2 hours just to make the interview.  Such is life for these hardworking folks. 

This is my entry to the September Blog Carnival hosted by Marky Ramone Go of Nomadic Experiences on the topic  “Unforgettable Human Encounters on the Road”.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

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Laoag and Vigan: Our Colonial Past

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March 4, 2011

An hour or so away by plane, all of 8 to 9 hours travel by road. Take your pick.

Fort Ilocandia

Fountain Inside Fort Ilocandia

We chose to fly, then rent a car from our base which is Fort Ilocandia Hotel and Resort.  The hotel is a good base for many day trips to various parts of the Ilocos Region.  Top of the list is a visit to Vigan, the only surviving colonial town in the country.  Declared a UNESCO Heritage Site,  it is a must see for all visitors who want to catch a glimpse of how it was in the 18th and early 19th century.  Time stood still in this part of Northern Philippines.  It helped too that Vigan , unlike Cebu and Manila,  was spared of the bombing last World War II.  Do not forget that Manila is the second most bombed city during that war. By God’s mercy,  Vigan survived and preserved  its antiquated houses, cobbled pathways, even the calesas or horse-drawn carts. The township with all its narrow streets speak of an architecture which blends Spanish, Asian and Mexican influences. At the time, it was called Ciudad Fernandina before it became Vigan which comes from the word “kabiga-an” where a tuberous plant called “biga” abounds. Then famous as a commercial and trading post,  it attracted Chinese junks sailing from the South China Sea. Some of these Chinese seafarers married natives and settled in Vigan. This was long before King Philip II of Spain sent Captain Juan de Salcedo who then “founded” the town in 1572 and called it Ciudad Fernandina in honor of the King’s son Ferdinand who died at an early age. Since then,  Augustinian missionaries visited Vigan and the rest of Ilocos Region and initiated the evangelization of the area. Many churches and monuments still stand today , spared from the bombings of World War II.

Paoay Church

Paoay Church Sideview

Paoay Church,  A Very Spanish Legacy

Back in Laoag, Ilocos Norte,  we spent the next day visiting Paoay Church, another UNESCO Heritage Site.  I have not seen a church compound anywhere in the Philippines as grand as this one.  Paoay Church stands proud. It is by no means as grand as the churches you’d find in Europe, but the colonial heritage and the Spanish legacy give it its well-deserved grandeur.  Built of bricks and coral blocks, the architecture combines Gothic, Baroque and Oriental. Built over a period of nearly 200 years, the church belltower is a fitting reminder of the Christianization of the Philippines as well as its role in the Philippine Revolution when it was used as an observation post by the local rebels called Katipuneros. Another church , the St. William’s Church, was built by the Augustinian frailes or priests in 1612 in the Italian Renaissance design. Right next to it is the Sinking Belltower leaning slightly to the North.  This is our local though much scaled-down version of the Pisa tower. A 3rd church we visited was Sta. Monica Church , a century old church of  neo-classical and baroque architecture.

Batac

Sinking Bell Tower

Ferdinand Marcos Hails from Ilocos

Of more recent history is the fact that ex-President and strongman Ferdinand Marcos hails from Batac, not too far from Laoag. The ancestral house of the Marcoses is now the Marcos Museum and Mausoleoum where the late President’s body lies like a wax statue. During his 20 year reign,  Marcos built a Malacanang of the North (Malacanang in Manila is the official residence of the President, much like the White House in Washington DC).  The mansion is an expression of opulence and overlooks the lovely Paoay Lake. Now a museum,  visitors can tour the mansion for a minimal fee.

Bangui Windmills

Bantay Belfry, Ilocos Sur

These days, the Ilocos Region is still considered Marcos land despite the fact that the dictator has passed on many years ago.  His only son, Ferdinand Junior,  Bongbong to most, is the current congressman representing the Ilocos Region. Bongbong earlier served as governor of the province, during which time the Bangui Windmills were established.  This wind farm lies nearly next to Pagudpud and now has 15 wind turbines. It has since attracted many visitors to the area just to view the 70 meters tall wind turbines. And not too far from here is the Cape Bojeador , a lighthouse built in 1892 north of Laoag City. It is the highest, and I think the oldest, lighthouse in the country.

Vigan's Heritage Site

Cape Bojeador Lighthouse

Many Ilocanos to this day idolize the late President Marcos.  Without dwelling on politics,  I will venture to suggest that the more prominent and admirable Ilocanos should be Juan Luna ,  Diego Silang and his equally brave widow, Gabriela.  All three are martyrs and heroes of the land.  They have done far more for our country than any other Ilocano. That said,  let me invite everyone to visit our land!

Vigan

pagudpud

More photos can be viewed in my TravelBlog site. 


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Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar in Bagac, Bataan

Filed under: Philippine Travels — 35 Comments

This beats many a collector’s dream.  I am not sure whether to thank the collector,  to envy him, or what.

 

 

We accepted a friend’s invitation to spend the weekend in Pilar, Bataan and prepared ourselves for a somewhat dull weekend visiting the local market, Mt. Samat War Memorial Shrine in Pilar, Bataan,  and enjoying fresh fruits in season. “Ciudad de Acuzar” was not part of our itinerary. Neither have we even heard of this heritage town where the owner’s collections included many historical turn of the century houses, town hall, school and chapel!

 

Just 3 hours north from Manila

 

The drive  northwest of Manila via an expressway and paved roads  took more than 3 hours. Pilar is a sleepy town in Bataan.  Right beside a ricefield with a view of Mt. Samat, our host’s house promised a lot of rest , peace and quiet.  History lessons reminded us of the annual celebration of the “Fall of Bataan” in 1942.  Every April 9,  which was declared a public holiday,  we remember our fallen brothers who gallantly defended our land. The Shrine on Mt. Samat was built in loving memory of these brave Filipino and American soldiers who died  during World War II.  Along with the Fall of Bataan, this province also reminds us of  the famous  Death March from Bagac and  Mariveles, Bataan all the way to Capas, Tarlac. Rich in history,  it was ironic that what we remember most from our Bataan weekend would be the “heritage town” put up by a local land developer in Bagac, Bataan.

 

The “Old Town” Collection

 

Uprooted from various areas within the country were a small chapel, the entire turn of the century school building, and many ancestral houses to form part of the new “old town” representing Mr. Acuzar’s collections. This development inevitably invited many critics to scream foul, asserting that these historical landmarks are best left and preserved wherever they were. So much furor for the transfer of all these heritage structures to satisfy one man’s dream collection!  At the same time, there were also those who hail the transfer of all these ancestral and historical structures to one area with a good promise that the owner/collector will preserve the structures.  Though a private collection and property,  “Ciudad de Acuzar” is bound to attract a lot of attention, and likely curious visitors.

 

 

We saw a lot of activity in this heritage town during our visit, where men worked on cobble-stoned pathways and reassembled doors, windows and posts from some old near-forgotten buildings in some faraway place.  The restoration and reassembly of these old buildings in this single area begs a debate on the propriety of such a collection. Will these structures now be better preserved here , or best left where they were?  I have no answers to that.  I only know that I feel lucky  viewing all these “collections” in a single afternoon.  Ciudad de Acuzar may either be your heritage town or modern day theme park, depending on your take.  As they say,  the Philippines “spent 400 years in a convent, and 50 years in Hollywood”.  (That’s nearly 400 years under the spaniards, another 50 years of American rule)

 

 

By the way,  at the time I visited, the place is not open to the public.  The site is in this 60 hectare property somewhere in Barrio Pag-asa in Bagac town, 150 km from Manila, or a 2½-hr drive through NLEX and SCTEX.  Not sure, but I hear the Museum Foundation runs tours .   The property makes for  a good day trip.  Check out their link here.   

P.S.  The property was featured recently in a major daily. Here is the link.  

More photos can be viewed from my TravelBlog site. 



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Don’t You Dare Miss Bohol

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My niece Suzette teased me about my blogging only about my foreign travels, never on my local trips.  Gave that a thought, and decided I should have really done some. Not so much for myself, but more for those who may wish to check out some of our local sites.  Frankly,  I enjoyed these trips around our islands just as much as I enjoyed my foreign travels.  Perhaps I only felt compelled to write about my travel adventures when they last longer than 4 nights, never for shorter adventures. But I am changing all that now. So here goes………..

 

From Manila to Tagbilaran, Bohol

I actually meant to bring my other niece Mayette for this trip, but she’s busy.  So, Suzette got lucky.  Started our adventure with a mid-morning flight via Philippine Air Lines from Manila to Tagbilaran, Bohol. An uneventful flight of an hour and a half or so.  The small Tagbilaran airport certainly demands improvement since the province attracted more tourists to check out the Chocolate Hills, tarsiers,  Baclayon Church, a few colonial houses, and the beaches of Panglao.  Small and seemingly chaotic,  we actually did not have any problem retrieving our bags and driving out of the small airport for our next destination – Panglao Island Nature Hotel.

Panglao Island Nature Hotel

Our resort hotel welcomed us with a refreshing juice from squeezed dalandan (local oranges) and a couple of guitar-strumming singers.  As soon as we checked in,  we glimpsed a very beautiful beach beyond the swimming pools surrounding the reception hut/lounge. The infinity pool promised to provide a relaxing afternoon under the sun.  It was exciting to find a small manmade island just beyond the beach area where some dinners are served.  We were told we will enjoy one of our dinners in that tiny island.

From the reception area, we rode a small golf buggy to take us to our cottage where we would spend the next 4 days. The forest cottage is not very far . We could have walked.  Even with our bags.  Nice and roomy.  The first item I check is always, always the bathroom and toilet. I was not disappointed. They could have put another room there. The walk in closet was a pleasant change. There was even a jacuzzi!  The 2 beds promised that Suzette and I will not be breathing and snoring next to each other.  We also found a good sized balcony though there was not a view except passing buggies bound for next door cottages.  The basket of fruits included my favorite mangoes. I was happy with that.

After a walk around the resort,  we headed for one of the 3 restaurants in the resort.  We strongly recommend Bohol’s famous yam soup.  It has the texture of a pumpkin soup, but this local version won’t disappoint. My first time to try it.  They don’t serve this back in Manila.  Yummy yam!  The other dishes served are fairly standard hotel food.  I will not rave about it.  You’d have your standard barbecue, breaded fish, green salad,  etc.  It fills up ,  but won’t sate, if you know what I mean.

Our Riverboat

Bohol Bee Farm, Baclayon Church and Museum, Loboc Museum, River Cruise, Chocolate Hills, Tarsiers

We spent the next day the best way any tourist can.  Started off the day with breakfast in Bohol Bee Farm. We were served organic Chef’s salad, homemade jams and marmalades,  pates and cheese spread, home-baked pumpkin bread and other pastries.  They even have their own coffee made from corn!  Eggs, local sausages called longganizas, meat loaf, various fruits, etc.  After that hearty breakfast,  a guide gave us a short tour cum lecture on how bees make honey,  what plants went to our breakfast salad,  the different flowers and plants around the area.  There was even a small store where one can buy their homemade jams ,  cheese spreads, honey, local biscuits, and native bags. I  got a couple of bags.

From the Bee Farm,  we drove towards Baclayon Church and Museum. I have seen this church some years back when the province has yet to make a mark on the tourism map. There have been some improvements, but my heart tells me the local government can do a lot more.  Tourism in the area has vastly improved. Perhaps ten fold if not more.  It’s easy to guess that.  My niece Suzette is making her first visit and I can tell she is impressed with our colonial history. Having grown up in the city,  she has had not much exposure to vestiges of our Spanish heritage.  The churches she goes to are all of modern architecture, unless she goes to Intramuros or a few other selected churches whenever she’s invited to weddings.  But our everyday church is a modern church.  Baclayon gives us a glimpse of how it was in olden times.  It helped that our guide prepared us by citing the story of the Spanish Expedition led by Miguel Lopez de Legazpi and Datu Sikatuna’s Blood Compact in the island of Bohol.  Now, let me explain a few things here.  Datu Sikatuna is a local chieftain in Bohol.  The Blood Compact is a ritual where both leaders seal their friendship by shedding a few drops of blood from their arms (i suppose they have to make neat cuts first…) , mix in some wine, and drink them.  Sounds very primitive to me, but that is what history books tell us.  Mind you,  that “friendship” allowed the Spaniards to overstay by a good 400 years.  Must be one effective Treaty of Friendship if you ask me.

Back to Baclayon Church and Museum.  This ancient church claims to be the oldest church in the whole of the Philippines.  Some may argue and say that the oldest church is San Agustin Church in Intramuros.  Well, that is the oldest STONE church in the country.  From the looks of it,  there are still some renovations going on within the church compound. Let us hope the complex will have more improvements by my next visit. My only frustration is hearing the sad news that the church experienced burglaries in the past, and that the Museum is now missing some precious items of antiquity.  My say on this?  There would not be burglars if there are no buyers.

From the Church,  we had a short drive to the Loboc Museum which sits right by the Loboc River, exactly where the terminal is for the  Loboc River Cruise.  The wide wide seaworthy vessel looks more like a big nipa hut with bamboo flooring floating down this green river.  Lunch was served while cruising Loboc River, complete with a singing duo who would gladly oblige guests with their favorite songs.  Again, I did not find the food all that impressive but I like the idea of having lunch while river cruising.  Along the river, one gets a glimpse of provincial life.  Native huts, children playing and swimming by the river edge, wooden outposts that serve as hangouts for idle men and women enjoying a good chat.  The whole concept is just so relaxing.  At river’s end,  there was even a band of  young girls singing kundimans (local songs of old) to the delight of foreign tourists.  Their songs brought cheer to our hearts.

Having enjoyed a relaxing cruise down the river , we then proceeded to check out the tarsiers.  Big eyed mini-monkeys with eyes bigger than their brains.  The smallest monkey in the world is an attraction here in Bohol.  Many foreign and local tourists took snapshots of these cuties who must have been stressed out with all those flash photography (despite the signage) and noisy crowd.  Suzette had a couple of shots to show off to her son and daughter.  From here,  we then trooped to the Chocolate Hills. We were told that there are better views of the hills in a farther town in Carmen, Bohol.  Tired that we were, we settled for the nearest viewpoint.  This view though can be had only after climbing a hundred steps .  But the vista did not disappoint.  Rolling down the landscape were the Chocolate Hills, now not so chocolate-ty but more greenish.  I recall having climbed the same steps the last time I visited Bohol.  Was it age creeping up on me, or did they actually add more steps to the stairs?  Kidding aside,  it was not a steep and long climb.  Very manageable, really.

Coming back to the hotel,  we hit the showers right away to drain away the sweat from the sweltering heat,  and all that dust and grime from a whole day of touring.  We also had our perfect dinner in that tiny manmade island which was made up by the hotel for a luau dinner.  They set up torches to light up our dinner , and they had tiny boats ready to ferry us from shore to the island.  I thoroughly enjoyed our dinner of crabs, prawns, grilled pork bellies and chicken,  seagrapes salad called lato,  green mango with bagoong (shrimp paste), various fruits.  Wine flowed. And the singing began.  It was a natural consequence, one may observe.  And it was also our cue to stand up and leave.  Better back in the room, than feel obliged to sing. The night was magical  and we decided to walk back from shore to our forest cottage.  The resort is really not big.  I may say it is a good size.  There was a good breeze and I was happy to walk back to our cottage. It was also just the perfect time to try out the hotel’s famous spa.  Suzette had her body massage at exactly 11 in the evening.  Don’t ask me how she found her way back to our cottage by midnight after that treatment.  What I know is that I’m pretty sure she drooled in her sleep.

The following morning could have been another adventure but the weather did not cooperate.  Our dolphin watching boat adventure was cancelled at the last minute because of stormy weather.  Balicasag island promised a lot, but I guess we can’t have it all.  We spent the whole day in the resort.  My niece checked out some of the caves around with newfound friends.  By nightfall,  we had a simple dinner before deciding to seek adventure.  This time,  we ventured out for yet another boat ride along Loboc river to check out the fireflies!   We were along the river for a good hour, no fireflies.  Just mosquitoes, and so much darkness.  We almost gave up by the time the fireflies decided to make an appearance.  So beautiful.  One tree looked like a lighted Christmas tree in mid-summer.  How magical! And that’s the second time I used that word here.

The following day is the day we take our flight back to Manila.  There was enough time to hear mass at the nearby Dauis Church, another ancient church.  After mass,  we had a chance to check out the plaza behind the church.  Then back to Panglao Island Nature Resort to pack our bags and get ready for our flight.  It was a weekend well spent.

Read also my Bohol blog in my TravelBlog site. More photos there.    

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A Weekend in Subic

Filed under: Philippine Travels — 1 Comment
March 2, 2011

It was a weekend well-spent in Subic. 🙂

 

We planned this weekend with the kids and made sure there’s a day to enjoy swimming and just bumming around,  a day with the dolphins at Ocean Adventure , and a day at the Zoobic Safari to check out the tigers and other animals in the zoo.

 

On Our Way to Subic

Early morning, and we were ready for our 3 hour journey to Subic, the former American military camp which has been transformed into a Freeport Zone as well as a major playground .  It actually took less than 3 hours as we drove through the Northern Luzon Expressway (NLEX), past the San Fernando Exit, then into the new Subic-Clark-Tarlac express way or SCTex.  This relatively new expressway connects Subic Bay to the Clark area, just a half hour ride away.  Subic is also another gateway into the Philippines with an International Airport  now serving a number of budget airlines.  One can also choose to take the bus (Victory Liner)  from Manila to Subic.

Ocean Adventure

 

Legenda Hotel is not everyone’s favorite in Subic, but if one is searching for a good family room, this is the place.  We got ours complete with its own living area and a very roomy bedroom and a walk-in closet!  Easily, the walk-in closet was a hit with the kids.  Remember how we all enjoyed hiding in closets when we were kids?  Well, this one is really more like a small room with a boudoir.  And the kids loved it.  Soon after we arrived, my young swimmers checked out the pool and worked up an appetite for lunch.  I can’t recall the name of the restaurant near Legenda Hotel, but let me just say we ate there quite a number of times.  The resto opens up to the beach, and is just a short walk from the hotel.  Here, one chooses his seafood dish as the fish, shrimp, crabs, prawns, clams , squid and other wet creatures vie for your attention while they are all lined up on the tiled tables.  After making your choices,  you now decide how you want your seafood cooked.  We did not mind having to wait a while while our lunch or dinner is getting cooked.  There was always that chance to venture out into the sandy shores and feel the breeze from the bay.  Every meal time was preceded by the kids needing to wash off the sand stuck between their fingers. Never mind that sand also found their way through their toes.

 

Subic Bay Yacht Club

Off to Ocean Adventure

That same afternoon,  we went to the Ocean Adventure at the Camayan Wharf.  This marine park can easily take a whole day, with those lectures and various shows with those wonderful mammals.  The Dive with the Dolphins and Whales was the highlight, but we sadly learned that this requires an additional fee of nearly US$80.  No way, Jose.  But looking at my 2 little elves broke my heart.   So I did the next best thing.  I explained to the little ones that the fees are just too much but there is a chance the park attendants and ushers may ask for volunteers during the dolphin show.  Now, those eyes brightened up instantly and you bet they eagerly waited for those magic words.  Finally, when the show emcee asked for a volunteer, my 10 year old grandniece didn’t leave anything to chance and proudly stood up and walked towards the emcee, thus pre-empting any other would-be volunteers.  Woo hoo!  That saved me US$80!  The photos will show how she enjoyed this portion of the show where she fed the dolphins, danced with them, and allowed them to “squirt” water on her.  For all that, she even was rewarded with a bag of goodies! Er, not bad…….

Tiger Attack @Zoobic Safari

Adventures in Zoobic Safari

Over dinner,  we talked non-stop about their adventures as we also filled them in for the next day’s adventures.   How they can wake up the next day with so much energy after a late night just playing around the big family room,  is beyond me.  After a hearty buffet breakfast at the Legenda Hotel, we again took off  this time for Zoobic Safari.  The entrance to the zoo is about US$10 for adults , and about US$7 for the kids. Again , there was a show before the stroll around the zoo.  Still smarting from yesterday’s spirit of volunteerism,  our young girl again volunteered to bottle-feed the tiger cub.  She did not stop there.  Patricia also volunteered to play with this tiny snake which twirled around her tiny arms while we all sat watching .  Her brother Martin was not as adventurous, but he enjoyed the whole show, and was just as eager to check out the rest of the zoo.  It was a very humid day, but we survived it.  We also survived our next adventure, where we all piled inside a jeepney with window bars.  The bars were there to keep away the tigers.  What happened was as soon as we piled in,  the jeepney took off and entered an enclosed park where tigers roamed free.  Someone from the park threw a chicken dinner for the tigers to feast on.  What happened next got Martin screaming at the top of his lungs.  The tigers jumped on the roof of the jeepney as they savored their chicken dinner.  Other tigers , not as quick, walked side by side our jeepney…….and they all looked hungry.  Martin laughed and screamed, laughed and screamed.  The other passengers in the jeepney did the same.

Zoobic Safari

Our last day in Subic should have been a day in the forest with the monkeys, but we instead opted to spend it at the Subic Yacht Club for another day of swimming.  All that humidity can easily warp your brains and change your mind.   So, no monkeys, no canopy walks and ziplines for us today. But it was again another day well spent.   Just 4 days and 3 nights here in Subic……all in leisure.  By the time we drove out of the Subic Freeport Zone,  the kids were ready to hit the sack.  All energy gone.  It was a longer drive back to Manila.  Perhaps because all excitement has been exhausted and we were not exactly looking forward to another week of school and work.

Subic Bay Yacht Club

More photos in my TravelBlog site. 

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Discovering the Wonders of Palawan

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St. Paul’s Subterranean  River National Park in Puerto Princesa certainly deserves to count among the 7 wonders of the world.  My friends and I thought it’s about time we visit this famous underground river which has been declared a UNESCO Heritage Site , and check out the many other attractions of this southern part of Palawan. We were pleasantly surprised to find many more wonders in Puerto Princesa. And this is how our adventure went.

 

St. Paul’s Underground River

 

It took us a couple of hours to reach the place.  That’s over land.  Next step is to board a boat passing limestone cliffs to reach the entrance to the underground river. The boat ride was another 30 minutes. When we got off the boat,  we found a path “guarded” by monitor lizards and swinging monkeys through this mini rainforest which led towards the river. Waiting for us at the mouth of the cave were professional guides who divided us into small groups. Each small group to a professional rower guide to each boat. While waiting for an earlier batch to come out of the cave entrance,  we listened to instructions from our guide while taking in the sights around the entrance.  I asked about this tree which must have stood by the cave entrance for many years to witness all the comings and goings in this world wonder. The Dangkalan tree is a fitting guard that stands between the open sea and the cave entrance.  By the time we were instructed to board our boat and don our helmet,  I was satisfied with the pictures I took of the lovely tree.

 

 

Inside the cave, the underground river snaked through for some 4 kilometers before we were led back the same way to get out.  We must have spent a good hour inside……..enough to see many of the stalactite and stalagmite formations. I’ve got to hand it to the guide who cheerfully flashed his light on cave formations in different shapes and sizes, resembling various fruits and vegetables, as if we were all out in the market.  There was also a spot aptly called Cathedral because of it s height which looked like an atrium with the “Holy Family” cave formation somewhere near.  We were careful to keep our  mouths shut as there were too many bats too eager to shed some droppings!

 

Iwahig Penal Colony

 

If there was ever a prison community with the most cheerful inmates, this is the place.  The penal colony spanned many hectares.  This correctional institute is really more like a farming community much like the kibbutz farms I have visited in Israel. Some prisoners lived with their families and were given lots to till to earn a living. Along the river were picnic cottages where families of other prisoners stay during “visits”.  I met an inmate there with a pet snake,  just a small one,  but no matter –  those slimy creatures still give me the creeps.  Another inmate had a pet turtle.  Still another had various handicraft products for sale.  It felt kind of strange to roam around the place, meeting inmates,  chatting with them, even haggling with them for some keychains and other souvenir wood products which they crafted with their own hands.

 

In another part of the penal colony,  we found this old structure with lovely windows. Must be at least 50 years old.  Certainly not too old,  but it’s got character.  Reminded me of some of the old structures that can be found in the old Sangley Point back in Cavite City where our family once lived.  Right beside this structure was the handicraft store.  Wooden souvenirs,  keychains,  table mats, etc were up for sale.  One can tell these prisoners had their hands full,  busy working with their hands to earn a living.  No wonder they look happy in this place.

 

Dining at Kalui’s and Badjao

 

Not to be missed are these 2 fine establishments.  Kalui’s has such a homey atmosphere where diners are asked to leave their slippers outside the hut and don house slippers while enjoying many of Kalui’s seafood delicacies.  The grilled fish selections were so yummy,  and paired with the local seagrapes salad called “lato” make for a really good lunch.  I like the ambience in this place.  It is truly an artist’s place.

 

 

Badjao Restaurant on the other is a lot bigger, built on stilts looking out into the sea.  Seafood is the place’s attraction too.  Freshly harvested prawns and lobsters, grilled tuna, and some local vegetable dishes.  I can imagine many weddings and birthdays held here.

 

Crocodile Farm in Palawan’s Wildlife Center

 

I have never been to any crocodile farm, so this is my first outing with these crocs.  Each one of us in the group was made to hold a baby croc and pose for a picture.  Naturally,  i did not pass up the opportunity.  But just like the snake,  I have no affection for these reptiles.  Forgive me. We crossed a short bridge passing a group of crocodiles who looked like they were waiting for their lunch.  Hopefully they did not expect me for lunch.

 

Viet Ville

 

On our way back to Legend Hotel where we were booked,  we stopped by this place for dinner.  We met some ex-refugees from Vietnam here.  Obviously, not everyone left for good old America.  Some chose to stay behind, and married their Filipina girlfriends.  The Vietnamese restaurant where we had dinner boasts of authentic Vietnamese cuisine.  We had the usual rolls, barbecued meats and noodle soups. We even tried their air-dried jackfruit slices.

 

Snake Island

 

We took a boat and braved the waves in Honda Bay , passing a number of islands.   We chose to eat our lunch of grilled fish, salted eggs with tomatoes,  mangoes with bagoong (shrimp paste), and rice in Snake Island.  We also found a couple of snorkelling guides who  found the perfect spot for us to see schools of fish.  Frankly,  I was a bit scared venturing out in open sea.  My guide was kind of advanced in years and I was praying he won’t have an attack while watching out for me.  Tried hard not to panic, and simply enjoyed snorkelling.

 

Mitra’s House

 

The house of the late Congressman Mitra is atop a hill and provided a lovely view of Honda Bay.  It was also a house with a unique architecture…………round in shape,  with wooden balcony rails to hem in the tourists enjoying the panoramic view.  Inside the house, one finds pictures of the entire family.  The caretaker still speaks lovingly of the late Speaker of the House.  As do most people from Palawan. What a waste.  Now, we’d never know if Mitra could have been the republic’s greatest ever president.

 

Read also my Palawan blog in TravelBlog.  More photos can be viewed there.   

 

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Europe: Then And Now

Filed under: Europe — 10 Comments
February 24, 2011

Back in 1986,  I traveled to Europe for the first time. Alone.  At the time, I was still smoking and it was sheer torture to be in flight or around airports and train stations all of 21 hours.  Every chance I got, I filled my lungs with nicotine like it was the last stick I’d smoke.  I read the instructions over and over, matching them with the signages I passed, hoping I’d find my way to Bradford, England without a hitch.

 

 

The London stopover ended with my safe landing in Heathrow airport.  From there,  I took the train for Bradford.  Not an hour or two to check out the London sights.   That had to wait for much later. I was expected for dinner somewhere within the halls of Bradford University.  From the tropics,  I had my first taste of snow when I got out of the train station in Bradford.  I wanted to run and throw my first snowball.  That had to wait too.  At the time, I was simply too eager to get inside Charles Morris Hall and sit by the fire to warm my fingers which were threatening to freeze.   As I “thawed”,  I met my new friends from Saudi Arabia, Italy, Finland, Brazil, Ethiopia, Burma, Solomon Islands, Iran, Nigeria, Sudan,  Poland, India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, and Cyprus.  I have lost touch with all of them.  Hopefully, with this blog I can find some with greying hair but with the same smiles I still fondly remember.  These friends introduced me to varied flavors of the Orient, African, Middle East and Western cuisine:  from the Indian tandoori to the Italian pasta (back then, I only knew the spaghetti with meatballs), to Sudanese cabbage with rice stuffing yummy dish, to Brazilian beans and more beans!  Oh my,  too much beans.  Where are you guys?  Zeze, Raoul,  Rebecca, Lita,  Salik, etc.

 

 

I nearly cried when I saw Buckingham Palace.  I saw Big Ben at sunrise and sunset with coffee in a paper cup ,  seated on a bench somewhere. Always, I would be found reviewing a map.  I would imagine  myself taking the “Tube” as Londoners call their subway,  and visiting the popular London sights.  I also imagined which subways to take to go to the West End to watch Les Miserables and how to find my way back to our hotel.  When I crossed the English channel to go to Paris for the first time,  I was dripping with excitement.  Eiffel Tower was not really much to see the first time i saw it.  I was more awed by the Champ Elysees and the Arc de Triomphe.  By the time I reached Italy,  I could hardly sleep ……… spending my nights planning on how the next day would be spent.  There was just so much to see and so much food to try. I was young then,  and my taste buds were still waiting to discover new cuisine. I can relate to Peter Mayle’s first adventure with  French food.  Even freshly baked bread was new to me then.  I discovered wine and cheese for the first time too.  I even learned which wine glass is for what……..a far cry from those days when my wine glass was good for any wine, red or white , sparkling or not.  More than that,  I discovered what life is all about.  I turned many pages since then.  And my life, as a book,  now counts many chapters and sequels.

 

 

I visited the same sights over and over again. I worked, and worked hard. I saved, and saved good.  I traveled,  and savored every minute.   Through the years I have taken pictures of some favorite sights and found how they now compare.  I will throw in more recent pictures here from time to time , if only to lay down a better comparison between then and now.  The unwanted pounds. The unwelcome lines.  But who cares?

 

Check out the photos and see for yourself.

 

[Read also my TravelBlog site.  ]

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