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Tag Archive: Spain

#28: MADRID BLOG SERIES: Shopping in El Rastro

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Filed under: Europe, Spain, Travel, travels — 1 Comment

April 22, 2012

So, who has not been to El Rastro? Today’s a Sunday, and we’ve been putting this off for the longest time. Not that we haven’t done any shopping — are you kidding?— but a trip to El Rastro is more all about experience than anything else.

Took the metro all the way to La Latina. As we got out of the Metro Station, there was no mistake we were in the area we intended to be in. Music flowed from a couple of strummers just as crowds seamlessly flowed in one direction — towards the flea market called Rastro.

The Rastro has been an “institution” for centuries. I won’t say you’d get great bargains here as we have shopped elsewhere and enjoyed many rebajas. Even our very own Jose Rizal failed to resist shopping in El Rastro. These days, the cheap finds are Made in China and the leather products are not exactly cheap. If you ask me, I’d rather shop in a store less crowded. Besides, the place is a favorite hangout of pickpockets. Knowing that gives me anxiety attacks.

Anyway, our El Rastro sojourn allowed us to meet a US-based Filipina visiting Madrid with her husband. The day we met was also the day they were leaving for home which is Rhode Island, NY. Guess what happened? The husband left ALONE for US of A. The Filipino wife stayed behind, and staying with us till May 1. Most time anyway. She’s joining my girls on a trip to Lisbon and next weekend in Barcelona. Crazy enough for you? Well, c’est la vie. We celebrate, and so does our new friend Kate!

Tags: Madrid, Rastro, Spain

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#27 DAY TRIP TO TOLEDO

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April 18, 2012

My TravelBlog piece dwells on my day trip to Toledo — my second time here in this lovely city brimming with art, culture and history. Ten years ago, I was also here and blogged about my experience in a brief stopover on our way south from Madrid. This time around, I would not be deprived the chance to visit and LINGER in the cathedral and in this place made even more famous in many El Greco paintings.

I choose to concentrate on the Toledo Cathedral. Having just recently visited the cathedrals in Avila, Segovia, Sevilla and Cordoba, you may think it’s overkill to visit another one. Not so in Toledo. The retablo behind the Main Altar and that “hole in the ceiling” —- the dome — are enough to justify the €7 admission here. Not to forget, I particularly love the statue of a smiling Mama Mary and a playful Infant Jesus in the Choir area just right across the Altar.

As I leisurely walked around the Cathedral, I would always catch myself looking up towards the ceiling. That “hole” impresses me so. I wonder how it was sculpted ~~out~~ up there, or how they even keep it clean, or how they change the lightings up there. Or is that natural lighting? Perhaps. As with many church areas where these geniuses of the past thought of almost everything!

What an inheritance! Spain is so lucky to have “inherited” all these treasures. And all those El Greco paintings of saints inside the capillas. Of course no photography was allowed inside the chapels which may well be art galleries by themselves given the many precious paintings inside. And as one steps outside, there’s so much more to see. Truly, Toledo’s claim as the biggest “open-air museum” rings true.

The best way to visit Toledo is to walk all around. Easily a half day just walking around, peeking in and out of churches and museos. Just imagine El Greco walking on the same cobble-stoned paths, drawing inspiration for his paintings and Miguel Cervantes for his Don Quixote novel from Toledo’s inheritance!

You may also want to read my 10 year-old blog on Toledo. It may be my 2nd time now, but the thrill of being in this huge open-air museum remains.

Tags: El Greco, Europe, Spain, Toledo

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#26 Saint Therese of Jesus (Avila)

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April 13, 2012

In an earlier blog, I wrote about our day trip to Avila from Madrid. It was the week before Holy Week. And I ended up doing Avila 2 days in a row. But that’s another story.

There are many ways to tour Avila. The Tourist Office has several itinerary choices for visitors. The more energetic may want to round up the walls and visit as many churches and museums. The lethargic, exercise-deprived may opt to train in and around the 11th century walls. The first time around, it was a walking trip for us. Avila has enough churches ⛪and old buildings 🏰within its “murallas” or walls to fill up a whole day. The 2nd time around — which is really just the day after — we didn’t miss the chance to ride the green train that weaves around and outside the walled city. A good idea, sparing us from the leg cramps of the day before.

Typically, every tour starts in the San Vicente Basilica, 💒which is right at the mouth of The Murallas. The basilica is where the young Prince, son of Ferdinand and Isabela, remains buried. Very impressive. Just before entering, take time to appreciate the wood carvings on the doors and the statues guarding the admission area. I spotted 10 apostles and wondered. When asked, the guide didn’t know which of the apostles are missing. Also, every pilgrim here won’t miss a visit to the Museo de Santa Teresa. Although Avila has another patron saint (well before St. Therese was born and sainted), there are many museums and relics of St. Therese, along with all those stores selling “yemas” named in her honor. If you ask me, those “yemas” taste like pure yolks sprinkled with sugar. Too rich. 😖

On our 2nd visit, we visited the Convent cum Monastery where St. Therese of Jesus was once the prioress. Coincidentally, this Monastery of Incarnation opened its doors on the very day of the saint’s baptism, though it was 20 years after when she entered the convent as a nun in 1535.

Inside, we spotted the exact site where St. Therese met the child Jesus. The child Jesus allegedly appeared to the saint right by the main staircase of the Monastery. The story goes that the child asked the saint “Who are you?”, to which the saint answered “Teresa of Jesus”. Then she asked the child, “Who are you?” And the child answered “I am Jesus of Teresa”.

In 1982, Pope John Paul II visited this convent. The chair on which he sat is encased in glass and put on exhibit here. There are many relics inside the Monastery, and the cell where St. Therese of Jesus lived is well-preserved.

The Monastery’s gate is actually outside the walls. If you are riding a cab, be sure to be dropped off right by the gate. Easily, you can spend an hour or less here. A small tienda or souvenir shop can be found as you exit the same door you entered.

Tags: Avila, day Trip from Madrid, Saint Therese, Santa Teresa, Spain

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#25 Eating Around Spain

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Filed under: Europe, Food Trip, Spain, Travel, travels — 6 Comments

April 12, 2012

I do not pretend to be a connoisseur, nor am I saying I’ve tried all culinary delights around here. But I dare say that what I have found so far, I LIKE!

A trip to Avila meant bringing home some boxes of those yemas and cookies irreverently called “Tetillas de Monja” . Lenten Season meant we should try that Lenten delicacy called “Torrijas” or “Torrejas” —- frankly a cross between a French Toast and a bread pudding.

In Segovia, never miss a cochinillo meal at no less than Meson de Candido. They didn’t build a monument for Candido for nothing. It’s only a half hour AVE train ride from Madrid. The cochinillo, the cathedral and the Alcazar are good enough reasons for a day out to Segovia.

Of course, one must try the authentic paellas here in España. We tried some when we sat and dined in Plaza Mayor, while watching the crowds in chilly weather. But the best was introduced to us by our foodie friends who brought us to this hole in the wall somewhere in Tres Peces, 20 near the Anton Martin metro station. It is called Ventorillo Murciano.

A trip to the Mercado de San Miguel is also a must-try. Have your cheese and croqueta fix here. Or grab a drink or two while savoring some boquerones, Jamon, langostinos or some other shellfish. We even found some Chicharon, which they call cucurucho!

We checked out Casa Botin, that oldest running restaurant in the world, but there was a long line that Easter Sunday. No problem. The same foodie friends D and J introduced us to another Hemingway favorite haunt. Restaurante Salvador does not serve Botin’s suckling pig (besides, we had our cochinillo fix in Segovia) but it certainly serves the best Rabo de Toro. My friends said this is the same place where matadors hang out after a corrida. And one of them matadors had an affair with no less than Ava Gardner. Whether it was after or during her marriage to Frank Sinatra is debatable. But who cares if one is served bull’s tails for dinner?

Now, if you’re on a tight budget…..you don’t have to do Mc Donald’s or KFC here. Do check out some local food chain. There is Museo del Jamon, and there is Paradiso del Jamon. Both serve €1 bocadillos (sandwiches) and some good ol’ Spanish delicacies from Quezo, Jamon, Callos, Albondigas, Tortilla, etc. You choose!

But do save some euros for that churros con chocolate. If you go to the palenque (market), you can have your desayuno (breakfast) of cafe or chocolate WITH either churros or porras (like bicho bicho) for only €2. Cheaper than a Mc Do breakfast! Or you may want to line up for some freshly-baked breads and pastries (like Garnier’s) but it would be difficult to resist the pastries. At least ONCE, try the churros con chocolate ☕in either Chocolateria San Gines off Calle del Arenal near Puerta del Sol, OR Valor near Plaza Callao.

Buen Provecho!

Tags: Avila, Food Trip, Madrid, Segovia, Spain, Valencia

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#24 The Young Nazarenos of Cordoba

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April 11, 2012

Cordoba. The Mesquita. Originally a pagan temple. Then a Visigothic Christian Church. Converted into a Mosque. And finally a Catholic Church. How can one go to Cordoba without visiting the Mesquita?

My earlier blog on Andalusia will tell you how we covered both Sevilla and Cordoba during the Semana Santa. Perfect place to be in, except that the weather hardly cooperated. Just the same, we were in luck when we reached Cordoba. Miercoles Santo had 8 processions running. All ending at the Mesquita. We didn’t watch all 8, but our attention was drawn to the young Nazarenos — trainees? Protégés? — in the crowd.

Unlike the “regular” Nazarenos, these young protégés had no pointed hoods over their heads. We even found one barely out of his stroller, nearly knocking everyone blocking his path as he seriously took on his role in the procession. His grandfather tried, in vain, to put him back on the stroller. And we also found girl Nazarenos. Pretty and cutesy participants to the Semana Santa processions. As they passed right in front of us — we were lucky to be standing right by the elevated platforms of the Mesquita — we heard cellphones ringing, as the teenage Nazarenos likewise engaged in light banter with friends in the crowd. All spiritual meaning may have been lost …… But who’s judging?

These young Spaniards are fortunate to have, and to keep these traditions. The processions may seem a bit unruly —- compared to the “silent processions” in Madrid —- even festive, but the tradition has not lost its meaning, and its charm, on me.

Tags: Andalusia, Cordoba, Europe, Semana Santa, Spain

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#23 It’s “Raining Very Well” In Sevilla

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April 10, 2012

That’s what the driver of the red tourist bus said. IT’S RAINING VERY WELL IN SEVILLA. Very well, indeed.

We took the AVE fast train to Cordoba today only to find not so pleasant weather in this part of Andalusia. Then and there, we decided to hop back on the train and proceeded to Sevilla. Rounded up the Giralda with all those seats neatly arranged around the cathedral while young and not so young men and women donned their Nazareno hooded outfits for the religious procession. Alas, it poured too — more heavily here — and the procession and other religious festivities were all cancelled!

It was so frustrating to watch. Hooded Nazarenos unmasking, wet wooden seats folded up, crowds thinning and spilling into nearby tascas and tapa bars. Pasos staying inside the church without a chance to stray out for a procession. Even the ride on the hop on, hop off tourist bus was so gloomy as the skies opened up and threatened a flash flood around the beautiful city of Seville. We peered through windshields with wipers busily swatting off raindrops. We wrapped ourselves good as the chill started to freeze our fingers and numb our cheeks.

The morning after left Sevilla still wet, the floors of many tapa bars strewn with litter, too many coffee cups in garbage bins. Since we slept early the night before — so un Spanish — we woke up to catch the early hours in Maria Luisa Park sans the tourist crowd. It’s a lovely park though I still long for the charm of centuries-old buildings, bell towers, castles and churches.

By the time the tourist buses arrived to download more ~~camwhores~~ tourists like us, we were ready for another ride on the hop on, hop off red bus. Then off to the Sevillan Cathedral where throngs of tourists seem to have congregated around the Tomb of Cristopher Columbus. I grew tired waiting to snap a better photo.

We queued up to scale the ramps toward the Giralda Tower, a Moorish remnant that now serves as the bell tower of the cathedral. All of 37 planks? Can’t recall, but it sure felt that many. From the top, one is rewarded with the Sevillan skyline including the cathedral roofs.

Now, don’t forget that Andalusians take their tapas seriously. We did too. And let that be a good souvenir of our journey to Seville on this Holy Week. With or without the procession, sunny or cloudy, wet or dry, the home of flamenco is always worth a visit.

Tags: Andalusia, Europe, Holy Week, Semana Santa, Sevilla, Spain

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#22 DAY TRIP TO VALLE DE LOS CAIDOS

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April 6, 2012

Just 15 kilometers away from El Escorial is Valle de Los Caidos. Literally translated to “Valley of the Fallen”, this memorial is as different to Escorial as black is to white. The latter is a monument to Spanish fascism. Think Generalissimo Franco.

This is the world’s largest free standing cross. Built upon orders of Generalissimo Franco in the 1940s with labor from prisoners as many as 20,000, the structure houses an underground tomb which includes Franco himself. The memorial was erected in memory of the sacrifices made by the fascists during the Spanish Civil War. Our Tour Guide reminded us to refrain from making any political remarks in this monument as Franco is both loved and hated in this part of the world.

Frankly, I initially felt like I was walking inside a bomb shelter as I made my way in. Of course the murals and interior decor vanished that ridiculous thought almost instantly. But I was surprised to find a tomb in the name of Jose Antonio just before the altar, right across Franco’s. Who is Jose Antonio?

I didn’t stay very long inside. Felt kind of claustrophobic , if you ask me. I was glad to be out breathing the mountain air and appreciating the view. Then a question popped in my mind — but no….. I’m on holiday. No political concerns whatsoever. 😷😏😜

Tags: Franco, Madrid, Spain, Valle de Los Caidos

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#21 DAY TRIP TO EL ESCORIAL

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April 5, 2012

If you’re hankering for a lazy day visiting a cultural treasure and checking how royalty lived, died, and were buried then, take a day trip to the Royal Seat of San Lorenzo de El Escorial. Simply called El Escorial, you can make a stopover here on your way to Avila or Segovia. Or you can simply do El Escorial, just 45 kilometers or less than an hour’s drive from the capital of Madrid, along with Valle de Los Caidos not too far from the palace cum monastery.

It may be true that the edifice was inspired by the Temple of Solomon. The 2 statues of David and Solomon guarding the entrance to the basilica bolster this theory. For sure though, the structure integrated many architectural alterations. Far beyond being a royal residence and monastery, El Escorial is also a school, convent, library, and for the last 500 years, the royal burial site for most of Spain’s monarchs. King Philip II originally intended the place as necropolis for his parents King Carlos I and Queen Isabella of Portugal, as well as for his own family and descendants. The Royal Pantheon, creepy in all its marble goodness, reunite the Spanish Royal Family after life. It is aptly placed right beneath the royal chapel.

Declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1984, this 16th century royal site is likewise a treasure trove for great pieces of art from Spanish, Flemish, Italian masters from the 15th through the 17th century. From Titian to Velasquez to El Greco and many other collections. Too bad no photos to share, folks. Photography not allowed within much of the complex. I heard Mass inside the Basilica and took photos after the service. I was gently reminded by the guards with a simple, potent “No…..” before I could snap a photo of the dome which was inspired by the great church in the Vatican. Not surprising as the royal architect — Juan Bautista de Toledo — likewise worked in Saint Peter’s Basilica. Next to the basilica is King Philip’s royal quarters where a window allowed him to observe Mass even when his gout gave him problems. How about that?

My personal favorite is the Library. The vaulted ceiling’s frescoes reminded me of the Sistine Chapel, albeit on a less grand scale. The Spanish Monarchs and scholars must have spent a great deal of time here. More so as King Philip II intended El Escorial as a center of studies to counter Protestant Reformation then sweeping Europe, in keeping with Spain’s role as center of Catholicism during his reign.

It would take many day trips to El Escorial to fully appreciate its grandeur and view the entire horde of art treasures. My hands found a nice reproduction in watercolor in the monastery’s “tienda” but decided against buying it as I agonizingly peeled myself away to get back on my bus and join my tour group. The tour guide then pulled out a surprise by raffling off the same piece my fat fingers gently traced just a while back. You guessed right. I won that watercolor reproduction. It’s a beautiful day! Life is a celebration 😍😍😍

Tags: El Escorial, Europe, Madrid, Spain

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#20 DAY TRIP TO SEGOVIA

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April 1, 2012

When I think of Segovia, I would always have this fleeting image of a cochinillo in all its shining crispness. I could even almost hear the crackling sound way before that crunchy skin touches my lips. Sure, I’m a glutton without remorse. But let me explain.

Back in 2002, I set out on a tour of Spain armed with a long list of must-visit destinations and an equally long list of errr……must-try eats. Among them is the cochinillo at the Meson de Candido. Unfortunately, we landed in Segovia during Lent. On Good Friday at that. Meatless Friday. You don’t know how I’ve always dreamed of that cochinillo all these last 10 years!

Sans liver sauce. Sans all those herbs like our Cebu lechon. But it sure tastes gooooood. Ten years of frustration completely wiped out with the first bite! (I’m shameless when it comes to food). So glad we started our tour of Segovia with a “proper lunch”. By the time we were ready to walk around, we were hopping with energy.

The 2,000 year old Roman aqueduct is Segovia’s claim to fame. Well, besides the cochinillo of course. Even the Segovians have no pretensions about this and even built a statue to honor Señor Candido. These days, the restaurant is run by Candido’s nephew. Sobrino de Candido. Much like Madrid’s CASA Botin is now called Sobrino de Botin. Which makes me wonder……what happened to the hijos, or hijas?

Outside of the cochinillo and ancient aqueduct, Segovia has so much more to offer. Half a day visit doesn’t do it justice. And do get a local guide to walk you through the medieval town. The Segovia Cathedral and Alcazar are must-sees. I was particularly impressed with the icons and sculptures inside the cathedral. Gregorio Fernandez’ “Cristo Yacente” needs sometime to “digest”. Initially, I thought the sculpture lies on a light blue blanket and that a piece of that fabric was likewise placed over parts of Christ’s body. It looked so real, with its many folds, that you wouldn’t think it’s part of the sculpture. If I knew he was this good, I would have paid more attention viewing his art at the Museo de Prado. This tour also introduced me to Juan Juni with his masterful interpretation of “Llanto Sobre Cristo Muerto”. I took close-up shots of the facial expression on one of the statues, showing pure agony.

As for the Segovian Alcazar, this is really more than just another royal castle. The architecture and interiors artfully combine Romanesque, Gothic and Mudejar influences. The royal residence was also among the favorites of some monarchs which include Alfonso X, Henry IV and Isabela the Catholic. Within the medieval walls, one also finds former synagogues attesting to earlier Jewish settlements.

Mind you…..while this is already my 2nd visit, my recollection of the Alcazar was actually limited to the story that the royal castle inspired Walt Disney to design Sleeping Beauty’s castle in that theme park. Easy to forget this petty trivia once you get inside the royal residence. What’s more, you get a lovely view of Segovian landscape from one of the towers. No wonder the former monarchs loved it here!

Tags: Aeurope, Cochinillo, Segovia, Spain, Suckling Pig

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#19 DAY TRIP TO AVILA

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March 30, 2012

I have been to Avila before, yet longed to go back again. All unplanned, but I managed to visit Avila 2 days in a row. How? There’s this tour we signed up for last Sunday : El Escorial and Valle de Los Caidos. We didn’t know that the same tour likewise included a visit to Avila. Which is fine. Except that the day before, we had friends who signed up for a tour of Segovia AND AVILA. At the last minute, one couldn’t make it…..so they asked me if I’d want to sub. How’s that???

Ancient hill-top Avila has been declared a Unesco “Heritage of Mankind” city, and is famous for its intact medieval city walls and 90 towers dating back to the 11th century. The city was the birthplace of the mystic writer Saint Teresa of Jesus (1515-82) and is an important pilgrimage site, with quite a good number of churches built in the Romanesque and Gothic style.

First order of the day was a visit to the San Vicente Cathedral. Construction of this church spanned 200 years from the 12th to the 14th century. The church is outside, not inside the city walls. The main door with intricate wood carvings, the retablos and the crypt are the highlights of this church visit.

On the first visit, we had an honest-to-goodness walking tour of Avila. We even had to ask permission from Señora Maria Jesus (si, that’s her name) to give us a couple of minutes to buy yemas. They say the yema uses a secret recipe of no less than Sta. Teresa de Avila. Judging by the number of stalls selling yema, it sure looks like it’s no secret anymore. Now, be careful with these yemas. That small ball tastes like it’s made up of a dozen yolks in it. I’m good for just one. Two will give me a headache.

You may start out visiting as a pilgrim….. until you get tempted to buy some of the cookies irreverently called “Tetillas de Monja”. And please don’t ask me to translate (*blush). Then you completely get off the pilgrimage mode once you ask for “bolas de los frailes”. Dear me, who ever thought of naming these pastries as such are definitely raking it in as 1 out of 5 tourists I met bought a box or two. Tee hee.

Avila’s Plaza Mayor may not be as impressive as similar plazas in major cities but if you’re looking for a place to eat, there are several choices. Other tourists would likely not give it a second look but I bet many Pinoys stopped for some camwhoring in La Bruja Cafe and Bar. Need I tell you why?

Lunch was not in La Bruja. We were soooo hungry by the time we reached Avila (the second time around) that we decided we’d do lunch first and then just ride the “choo-choo” train navigating around and inside the walled city. Besides, we were here just a day before, remember? Restaurante Las Murallas is just at the mouth of the walled city’s gate, where one also takes the small train ride, PLUS it has a store selling yemas and Tetillas! No bolas or pelotas de frailes today (*more blush).

The train goes at 4pm. We nearly had to drag ourselves away from our lunch of cochinillo, cordero, gambas, paella, patatas revolconas. Way too much. How we stuff ourselves! This pilgrimage has turned into a food trip instead. Not fair to our dear St. Therese of Jesus. So, forgive me if I end my blog here. I need to write a more serious piece on the good saint. Lo Siento😔😔😔