Tag Archive: Santiago de Compostela



And just like that, we only have a couple of weeks before the year 2026 sets in. This early, we’ve mapped out some travel plans already for the coming year. Siargao in January. Kerala, India in February. Back to Sydney in March for quite a time, till June. And for the 2nd half of the year 2026, a river cruise along the Rhine. God knows where else we’d find ourselves in in between those planned trips. There’s Hokkaido and Medan, Indonesia in the drawing boards. And of course, that forever plan to watch Messi play — either with Inter Miami or with his national team Argentina for the coveted back to back win in the World Cup. Busy 2026? Perhaps busier than this year 2025. I’ve skipped many trips with my travel mates this year — choosing to spend more time and holidays with the family. All good. πŸ‘

Hiroshima

Started 2025 with a trip to Fukuoka although we stayed in Hiroshima for the most part. Despite the grim reminders of the horrors of war, the white and pink Sakura blooms cheered us up all throughout that spring holiday. For the 3rd time, I visited Miyajima Island to enjoy once more the iconic Torii gate and the succulent oysters and eels the island is famous for. Back in Manila for the necessary preps for a bigger trip to Spain and France. This European holiday is my first trip with a grandnephew based in Sydney, plus a niece whom I wanted to introduce to the camino as well as take to Lourdes, France for some “spiritual experience”. From the Gaudi-inspired city of Barcelona, we took the train to Pamplona and met up with cousins to Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles to Lourdes to Paris. It was time very well spent. The sightseeing, the pilgrimage walk, time with family, the art and culture aspects of a trip and most importantly, the bonding time while experiencing all these lovely adventures and creating happy memories.

Walking out of Saint Jean Pied de Port in France to cross the Pyrenees into Spain.

Soon after this European trip, I only had a few days to pack for another holiday. This time, in Bali, Indonesia where more kin from Sydney flew in to join me for 5 days of sun and sand. We made sure the trip is “senior friendly” as my 81 year old sister and brother-in-law are joining. That is not to say this newly-arrived (from a hectic trip) septuagenarian didn’t need a break. Quite honestly, I actually rested so well in Bali. It was truly a relaxing holiday after a fast-paced holiday with a younger set. Just what I needed!

With family in Bali.

Fukuoka in spring. Fukuoka in end of summer. Yes, I returned to this lovely city in September, this time with my “Apos” to attend my nieta’s art exhibit. But I hardly did anything outside of just being present. The twenty-somethings did all the planning, flight and tour bookings. Including all dining and shopping itineraries. Not bad. I can get used to this. We ate well, even if I thought we had too much coffee and ramen. I sat out the shopping part, but I enjoyed the new spots which the younger sets prefer. Besides, we are actually here for the Art Fair Asia Fukuoka !

Before the year ended, I joined my friends for yet another trip — to Kaohsiung in Taiwan. This is my first time here as I’ve only been to Taipei and nowhere else in Taiwan. Just a quick trip. Aside from shopping and eating, I only managed to visit Pier 2 Art Center. On 2 consecutive days, I visited the area which is just a short walk from the hotel we booked. Just as well. The pier is a massive place dotted with brick warehouses cum shopping and dining areas, and parks with very interesting art installations. I’m sure my young family members would love it here. But next visit, I’d be sure to time it during cooler temps. It’s hard to endure the sun in the open-air art spots. The afternoons by the river are more pleasant though.

Pier 2 Art Center. Kaoshiung, Taiwan.

And so, here ends 2025. How has it been? We look back with gratitude and look forward with hope. In a few, the year 2026 beckons. A third of the coming year is all planned out this early but the remainder is still there, leaving room for exploration. For adventure. For surprises. Oh, don’t we all love surprises? I am ready for the coming year. Are you? πŸ’•πŸŽ‰πŸ™πŸΎπŸš˜πŸ’ƒβœˆοΈπŸš‚πŸ›³οΈβ›±οΈπŸ•οΈβ›°οΈπŸοΈ


Back in 2017, I planned to walk from Saint Jean Pied de Port (SJPP) to Roncesvalles via the Napoleon Route. Unfortunately, that route was closed off due to weather conditions and I instead walked via the Valcarlos route. While I enjoyed this first leg of the Camino Frances, I felt cheated of what is claimed to be the most scenic route crossing the Pyrenees from the French border into the Spanish town of Roncesvalles. And so, I decided I’d give it another try after 8 years. My hair has since turned grey and the young friends I’ve met from the Express Bourricot transport office have matured and ready to build their young families. For a village of 1,500 French-Basque residents, I love the fact that most anyone know everyone.

Start of the Camino Frances

We booked a lovely apartment for 4 nights in Saint Jean Pied de Port (SJPP). The idea is to walk for 3 days, but stay in the same place. That means we get fetched/transported back to our flat after each day’s walk, and next day driven back to the point where we were earlier fetched to pick up where we left off. Sounds neat. Saves us the trouble of packing & unpacking and sleeping on different beds every night. Also, I like the idea of having a “home” even for 4 nights — with ref and pantry adequately stocked with fruits and groceries. We also love doing the laundry! 

Our SJPP Crib

A day before our departure for SJPP, I got an email from Alicia (who runs the apartment) that SJPP experienced some heavy rainstorms and our rooms got flooded. Major headache, as it was too late to look for a sub. Alicia was kind enough to book a replacement apartment only 150 meters away. Trusted her completely and crossed my fingers there wouldn’t be any further issues. As it turned out, we got 2 very roomy flats, each modestly but sufficiently equipped. The best part is it’s only a few meters from the gate towards the start of the Chemin de Saint Jacques (Camino) and right across it, an artisan boulanger patissier operates a shop from where the aroma of freshly-baked breads wafts through the misty air of this French basque village. 

Boulangerie with A Baguette Vendo Machine

Every morning, we step out meeting other pilgrims buying their baguette from the vendo machine in front of the boulangerie. It’s like a ritual before setting off on the Camino. And by day’s end, some old folks sit by the bench munching their pastries with their espressos or chocolat. After a day’s walk, I enjoy opening our windows and peeking down, people-watching, while my beef steak or pork sinigang stews. A whole roast chicken for 3 pax too. Fresh white asparagus, mushrooms , iceberg lettuces and the stoutest bean sprouts completed most of our dinners. And those passing pelegrins must have sniffed the steamed rice from our kitchen! All that walking revved up our appetites and nothing beats eating our local dishes. Unlike in Barcelona and Pamplona, we only went out for coffee and pastries here in SJPP. Real meals devoured in our flats on a dining table by the kitchenette. 

The Village

We started walking a day after we arrived. Got our pilgrim passports, shopped for groceries and visited the village church on the day we arrived. Also tried some shopping. The flats felt like home, especially after taking out of our luggage and hanging out our clothes for the next 4 days. Since it’s been raining the few days before our arrival, we took out our raincoats but prayed we’d be blessed with good sunny weather during our walks. Read what happened in the next blog πŸ˜‰

Room 1
Room 2

I have just read an article about how one shouldn’t miss out on this underrated place just a short 2 hour drive out of the more popular destination of Sevilla in Andalusia.  I wholeheartedly agree. There are many, many destinations around Spain worth a detour beyond the triumvirate of Madrid, Barcelona and Sevilla. This blog hopes to help those visiting Spain to include a few must-see’s into their Spanish Itinerary. 




When in Andalusia:


Ronda


Sevilla & Cordoba


When in Madrid:


Cuenca


Alcala de Henares


Aranjuez
Chinchon


When in Vasco and Galicia:


San SebastiΓ‘n


Getaria


Finesterre & Muxia


Pamplona


Santiago de Compostela


And There’s More:


Valencia


Burgos
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I have been dreaming of my camino de Santiago de Compostela like forever. I realized that dream on the first week of May 2015. Yes, just this year. And just nearly 3 months ago. I waited for many of my friends to join me, only to decide to do it solo. Well, not exactly solo. I joined caminoways which organized my camino for 6 walking days and booked all my hotel and luggage transfers, as well as my breakfasts and dinners. I dreaded walking so far only to find no decent accommodations and sleeping without dinner. I decided well. The pre-booked hotels and meals were all good, and all I worried about is finishing the day’s walk. All of 113 kilometers in 6 walking days. Minimum daily walk is 15 kilometers. Other days, we walked 30 kilometers including detours! 

 
On the Feast Day of Saint James (July 25), I mused over my own camino. Interestingly, I thought back to all those moments when I felt God’s presence in the green fields, the moist smell of the forest, the encounters with grazing farm animals, the non-verbal interactions via sign language with friendly locals, the centuries-old medieval bridges crossed by many pilgrims before me, the tiny, dark churches in the quaint hamlets we passed, the muddied paths and puddles of rainwater along the trail. NEVER did the pain of walking so many miles in the rain cross my mind. If at all, I look at my little toes and reminisce how I persevered to finish my camino. A little triumphant sensation there, I confess. 

 

Unfortunately, I didn’t have much time savoring my camino moments after my walk. Soon after, I met up with cousins visiting Madrid and then I had to fly to Berlin to meet up with friends before flying into Copenhagen to join our Scandinavian cruise. After sailing back to Denmark, I then flew back to Madrid with a couple of friends to join up with 2 more couples flying in from USA. The reunion lasted 3 weeks and covered many side trips from Madrid including bus and train trips to Burgos, Bilbao, Getaria, San Sebastian, Lourdes (in France), Irun, Santiago de Compostela (yes, I went back too soon), Muxia, Fisterra, Oporto, Fatima and Lisbon.  The adventure with friends left me no time to really indulge in more musings over my pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. Besides, the experience was clouded by a couple more pilgrimages to Lourdes, France and Fatima, Portugal. It’s an altogether wonderful experience. Really. Just that I would have wanted to relive the memory of EVERY SINGLE DAY of my camino and remember how all the yellow arrows directed me throughout my weeklong camino. 

 
I have been “on the go” since May. Even well before that, as I spent a week in Madrid doing more “practice walks” before hopping on that 6 hour train to Santiago de Compostela. When I returned to Manila mid-June, I only had a week to prepare for my family from Sydney spending a whole month with us. Plus there’s the Bangkok wedding which the entire family and a few friends (all 23 of us!) attended. On the feast day of Saint James, the last batch of my OZ family took the flight back to Sydney. I am left with many happy memories of family reunions, wedding, Bangkok sidetrips, and quite honestly, bonding across 4 generations within our family.  Such memories would last me many lifetimes. As would my “me-moments with my God” during my camino. I find it a luxury to indulge myself with those lovely images and experiences from my camino now. No matter what you hear or read, your Camino is YOUR CAMINO.  It’s a personal experience — an adventure, if you like — that is completely your own. I walked more than a hundred kilometers but more than half of those walking ALONE. Alone with my thoughts. In sync with Nature, and over-the-top with the wondrous solitude to pray as much and as long for others, and for myself and my family. Before the walk, I listed a hundred names of people I’d pray for. A kilometer for each, some of whom I do not know at all. The thought of praying for someone else pulled me through. Funny that whenever I prayed for myself, I’d always catch myself praying for “no blisters”. More so whenever I stop to change my socks, wiggle my toes and slather my feet with Vaseline. I even picked up the habit of ordering a beer to “reward” myself every afternoon, and some glasses of red wine come dinner time. Every morning when I woke up, I prayed and thanked the Lord for the renewed energy, well-rested limbs, and newfound enthusiasm for another day’s walk. I never lost the excitement over what I’ll find along the camino trail. Somehow, I likewise looked forward to the mid-morning and late lunch breaks  when I find myself interacting with fellow pilgrims from different countries. One funny thing here is finding yourself deep in conversation with another pilgrim whose name you never asked. Yet you remember his nationality, from where he started his camino, and how long he has been walking.  Other times, you’d be walking with a few for about a mile, engaged in serious and not-so-serious conversations, before bidding each other “Buen Camino”. If you meet them at your next coffee break, you greet each other like long lost friends. Such is the camino routine and vibes and I gladly eased into this  “behavior”. 
I finished my camino without any blisters. I pity those who trudged on with blisters, nasty sore toes,  and for a few, lost toenails.  Thankful every time I reached our hotel even when there were days we were soaking from the rain. Nothing beats that first beer of the day. Except perhaps that first minute when you soak your tired feet in a tub filled with hot water. Many times I fell asleep till the water turned really cold around my swollen feet. Every night, I’d wash my hair and then wear my camino clothes for the next day. Yes, fat chance I’d jump into my pajamas and then change into my camino shirt and shorts the following morning. Happened only on the first night. πŸ˜„ Waking up every morning was a breeze as I only needed to brush my teeth, put on my socks and shoes, and walk out the room. I’m not embarassed to admit this. Really. And it’s one good advice I’d give anyone planning a camino. Starting the day right, with as much ease and convenience, is the way to go. 
SLOW. I’m beginning to like this word. It is NOT a contest. Why rush? You have the WHOLE DAY to do it. My daily camino started every morning at a convenient time of 8:30 am. It helps a lot that you know you have a room in the next hotel where you’d finish your day’s walk.  Invariably, I’m done by mid-afternoon. And that includes coffee breaks, lunch breaks, pee breaks, oxygen breaks, and the occasional beer or wine. Mind you, I lingered over my lunch. It’s a major social activity for the day. A time to meet new walking buddies, swap first-aid plasters and ointments, listen to more (Irish) jokes πŸ˜„, “score” some passing hunks on bikes 😜, and share some energy bars sitting and adding weight to your backpacks. Altogether, these breaks are all too important to rest your limbs and maintain your sanity. When you start having a conversation with your leg muscles, your hip joints or your little toes, you know it’s time for a cafe con leche, cafe cortado, cerveza, rioja, or a bocadillo. πŸ‘£πŸ‘£πŸ‘£

 
Will I do another camino in my lifetime? I’ve met many septuagenarians who whizzed past me. Many walked alone. Many on their 2nd or 3rd camino. I would love to do this again. Perhaps walk the whole hog from St. Jean or Roncesvalles — but in installments. Like a week or 2 at a time.  Let’s see. Meanwhile, BUEN CAMINO! 
 


For more details and photos, check out my blog here.  And yes, do share your own camino memories here. πŸ˜€


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https://lifeisacelebration.blog/

http://www.travelblog.org/Bloggers/liliram/


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Do subscribe to my other blogsite “retirement suits me” for my latest blogs on our reunion and other adventures around Spain, Lourdes in France and Portugal. (https://retirementsuitsme.wordpress.com)

MADRID

https://retirementsuitsme.wordpress.com/2015/06/22/homebased-in-madrid/

https://retirementsuitsme.wordpress.com/2015/06/23/death-in-the-afternoon/

BURGOS

https://retirementsuitsme.wordpress.com/2015/06/24/el-cids-burgos

SAN SEBASTIAN

https://retirementsuitsme.wordpress.com/2015/06/25/eating-around-san-sebastian-spain/

BILBAO 

https://retirementsuitsme.wordpress.com/2015/06/27/the-euskotren-to-bilbao/

GETARIA 

https://retirementsuitsme.wordpress.com/2015/06/26/balenciaga-de-getaria-viva-vasco/

LOURDES 

https://retirementsuitsme.wordpress.com/2015/06/26/be-still-back-in-lourdes-france/

SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA 

https://retirementsuitsme.wordpress.com/2015/06/27/menos-emocional-en-santiago-de-compostela/

FINISTERRE & MUXIA 

https://retirementsuitsme.wordpress.com/2015/06/28/game-over-in-finisterre-y-muxia/

FATIMA 

https://retirementsuitsme.wordpress.com/2015/07/04/one-morning-in-fatima/

SINTRA 

https://retirementsuitsme.wordpress.com/2015/06/30/sintra-a-royal-favorite/

LISBON 

https://retirementsuitsme.wordpress.com/2015/06/29/san-antonio-festival-in-lisbon/

Our VIDEO: http://youtu.be/lfv7iBfh0f4


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The BUTAFUMEIRO Β (incensory) and the TIRABOLEIROS (incense carriers robed in red). The magnificent scene of the smoking, swinging incensory during the Pilgrim’s Mass in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela is forever etched in my memory.


Many come to Santiago de Compostela and consider this the highlight of their trip. I admit it’s quite a spectacle. And a fitting end to a 113km camino desde Sarria in Lugo. Β Many others walked longer distances — a few limping along with blistered feet, wind- and sun-burned, some a few kilos lighter. Me? Not a kilo lighter. But I may have developed leg muscles and swollen feet from all the walking. As well as sunspots across my face. I now realize they’re not big issues with me.Β 

What are the big issues then? The distance — how can I forget the day we walked 32.6 kms? And the weather. I don’t mind if it’s cold or sunny. But it’s a pain to get in and out of poncho raincoats! Many times too I’d put on the poncho before my backpack — which meant I had to redo everything so the backpack stays covered by the poncho. The mud? I don’t mind, except when it’s slippery. The uphill climbs…. Oh Lord. Thirty years of smoking took its toll. I felt like a really really old lady — hunchbacked and all with a backpack and poncho — with every step I took on steep inclines. Yet still, no big issues. Amused myself enough on those climbs. Happy thoughts!Β 

Go slow. Listen to the birds. Feel the sweet, moist smell of the forests. Mind the yellow arrows. Let Maryanne entertain you with her lovely singing voice. Be impressed with 70+ y.o. Herta’s camino pace — slow, deliberate and sure. Catch the funny exchange between buddies Carole and Helen. These 2 kept me amused often enough. May and Beth will keep you distracted from the muscle pains as they regale you with many interesting and funny stories. Such good walking companions! When Ann W and Sue wait up at the bend for you, and ask how you’re doing, you feel touched by the kindness. And how inspiring to find a mother-daughter team walking with you. Ann C and Missy make me consider another camino with my grandchildren. That is, if I can keep myself in good shape like Herta! And Chus. What would we do without young, lovely Chus? Thank you all, witches. I mean, ladies. Missing you all already!Β 

So, my camino ends for now. But the memories linger. We made it!Β 

DAY 1: https://marilil.wordpress.com/2015/05/03/my-camino-switching-off-for-a-week/

DAY 2:Β https://marilil.wordpress.com/2015/05/05/day-2-a-very-wet-camino/

DAY 3:Β https://marilil.wordpress.com/2015/05/06/day-3-camino-back-into-the-woods/

DAY 4:Β https://marilil.wordpress.com/2015/05/07/my-camino-day-4-the-best/

DAY 5:Β https://marilil.wordpress.com/2015/05/08/camino-day-5-can-you-believe-it/

DAY 6:Β https://marilil.wordpress.com/2015/05/09/my-camino-its-over-but-not-really/

Witches away!


http://youtu.be/ByPqqO8Qwus


The peregrinos are coming to town. It’s a Friday and the noontime and evening masses for pilgrims at the lovely Romanesque cathedral in Santiago de Compostela will have 8 robed men swinging the butafumeiro across the isles. As I soldiered on on this wet and windy day, many younger pilgrims zoomed past me, unmindful of the cold and rain. They could reach Santiago in time for the mass at noon. 


 

 Believe me, getting in and out of your rain poncho can be a mood spoiler. Much more so for those wearing rain pants. But it’s the last day. Our last 15 kms. As the Irish, German and locals zipped past on foot or on bikes, each had an expectant look.  “Buen Camino” which means “Have a good camino or walk” has also substituted for “hello” and “excuse me” or “move aside” as when they overtake you along the trail. 

 

 

 

 Most peregrinos stop at Monte do Gozo to have their first glimpse of the spires of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. It’s the last hill before reaching Santiago, about 4 kilometers away. Windy, overcast sky, cold and wet, we made a collective sigh of relief that the “end” is near. Our hearts felt the church spires beckoning us to march on. 

 

 

 

 

As soon as we stood before the Church, the dam broke. I cried. Such joy to be here. Such an honor to make this pilgrimage. All worth the wet, cold, windy camino days. The swollen feet from all the walking and the swollen hand from holding the shaft or walking stick.  This “jubilada” (retiree — which is what they registered at the Pilgrims’ Office when asked my profession) made it! And I’m happy that we made this hike in 6 days, feeling every step of the pilgrimage. Gracias, SeΓ±or. 

 

 

The Pilgrim’s Mass at 7:30pm had the entire cathedral filled up as early as half hour before the service. Came a good hour early and claimed front seat. Soon after the service, the tiraboleiros prepared to swing the metal thurible. Botafumeiro is that giant thurible or incensory that they swing across the isles, up and down, pulled by 8 men in deep red robes. Botafumeiro in Galician means smoke-expeller. And the robed men in charge of the swinging thurible are called tiraboleiros which mean incense carrier in Galician.  

 

 

Such a fitting end to this pilgrimage. Feeling blessed. Unlike those who made the 300-800km journey (or even longer), I can’t claim any lifechanging miracle. But I have a newfound discovery. Life, as with uphill climbs, need NOT be rushed. It’s hard. But taking breaks –a breather– every so often makes a seemingly impossible task doable. Often enough, I had to remind myself to slow down and walk in a relaxed manner. As with life, we sometimes do things just to get it over with. In this Camino, I discovered SLOW works. 

 

Gracias, Señor. Gracias, San Tiago de Compostela. Gracias to my nueva amigas : Maria Chus, Herta, Beth, Maryanne, May, Anne W, Helen, Carole, Ann, Misty, Sue. God bless you all😘

http://youtu.be/ByPqqO8Qwus


I CAN. HARDLY. BELIEVE IT. Five days of walking from Sarria in Lugo to Amenal, just 15 kms away from Santiago de Compostela. When we went past the 20 km marker, I felt like screaming for joy. Never mind that the next 5kms towards our hotel seemed like an eternity. We were tired, after all.Β 

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Been blessed with enough stamina and willpower to hurdle this camino which our guide Maria says isn’t exactly 113 total, but much more. In fact, she said we’ve actually done the minimum 100 kms yesterday to earn a Compostela. She measures our mileage each day but only tells us when day’s over. A little white lie, Maria would say.Β 

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But naaaahhh. Having gone this far, we’re not about to hop on a cab to Santiago. Well, there’s only tomorrow’s 15 kms towards Santiago de Compostela, so I feel more confident. Tired? Very! And blessed. No blisters. My little toes gave me problems since Day 2, but me and my toes will survive this.Β 

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Today’s walk was like yesterday’s —- into the woodlands in many portions, some meters of walking along the roads, pleasant weather. But more excitement today as we chanced upon Terry Porter, ex NBA player, now coach. Spanish media trailed him from the pitstop beer garden to the last 6 kilometers to Amenal. Took photos even if I didn’t even know the guy. Tried catching up with him but at over 6 feet, those long strides would make us eat dust. Well, the chance encounter was a good distraction for me and my sore legs. 😞 

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By this time, I have grown accustomed to more oxygen breaks to pace myself (thanks for the breathing/pacing lessons, Herta!) , zumo (juice) de naranja replenishments every 5-8 kms, and vino o cerveza only at day’s end. I’ve even grown excited over these camino breaks for coffee, snacks, cerveza and chats with fellow pilgrims. Some cafe bars are ok, but got to say the food menu hardly changed. It’s the same cerveza, tea, jamon y quezo sandwich, naranja juice, ensalada, tortilla. The defining mark rests in how they do their coffee and the state of their washrooms πŸ˜‰

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My right knee started feeling funny after 12kms but my new friend Herta gave me something to spray on it to ease the pain. I am excited for tomorrow’s final leg and happy it’s the last day. My endurance would be severely tested beyond tomorrow, for sure.

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Day 5. It’s more crowded now as we neared Santiago de Compostela. A bunch of cyclists, a group of German and Irish students, a gang of friendly and hilarious Irish women, many having reached this point after weeks on the camino. And many with their entire pack on their backs! This last 100 kms is nothing compared to what these men and women have been through. It’s embarrassing to even talk about how my right knee started feeling funny in today’s walk. Or how my pinky toes are giving me a problem. In fact, I feel guilty just looking tired 😒

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Funny how one starts thinking it will be another “short hike”. You see, the camino trail should have covered 28 kilometers but a great decision was made to “break” this legbreaker into 2 days. Entonces, it’s 28 kms in 2 days. Enough reason to start a tad perky yesterday and today. But it rained yesterday. Not so today.Β 


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We left our hotel in Melide around 9:30am and walked a bit off the trail to visit this pulperia, a church and a zapateria. Another reason to feel perky after a “late start”. For the first time, there was a mass service on this Wednesday during this camino journey. Great start!Β 

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By the time we were ready to resume our camino, 2 in our groupΒ had new leather boots in their backpacks. If we weren’t full from breakfast, we could have spent more time in that pulperia.Β 


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Enjoyed the best weather today. Cold when we started, but sun’s out and trail’s lovely as we weaved through Galicia’s countryside. This part — from Melide to Arzua — is very interesting. Β We shared the camino path with cows, had lunch in a small cafe bar (Santiago) whose pet dog attempted to follow us as we were leaving. Friendly dog, friendly cafe bar owner. He gave us so many “freebies” like more cheese, jamon, cake etc. Lovely man!Β 


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This part of the Camino is the best so far. “Only” 14 kilometers today through one of the picturesque parts of Galicia. Both the farmlands and villages are charming. Gosh, did I actually say that? ONLY 14 KILOMETERS TODAY. For someone who is lucky to hit 10,000 steps in a day, you better believe that!

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Though I struggled with the uphill climbs — 30 years of heavy smoking do that to you! — I enjoyed the hike. It helps too that we didn’t get rained out today.Β 


Birds chirping, feeling the “crunch” upon stepping on fallen leaves, crossing a bubbly stream, a slight drizzle, muddy paths, and cow manure here and there. Β Β 




 

It’s hard to deprive one’s self with a copa of vino or cerveza. I should stop. Dehydration Β issues and balance issues and all. Even the vino during dinners, much that I enjoy them, should be given up. One of the 4 ladies I’m walking with told me that she’s giving up smoking in this Camino. “That’s great” I said. To which she smilingly replied “…. just that I don’t smoke”. Touche! Let me have my vino!

 

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There’s a lot of my musings and ramblings as my knees struggled through the uphill climbs, downhill walks and flooded/muddied paths. Β Many oxygen breaks happened here. I’m good walking some distances on flat, dry surfaces. And without a backpack! But I’m compelled to use a backpack to carry my change of socks, vaseline, and fleece vest. Oh ok, the chocolate and energy bars are in there too. Galician weather is hard to predict. Funny how I don’t miss sunny spells (I break out in sweat!) and how thankful I am whenever it rains just when we’ve stopped for some coffee or caldo! But today, it rained again on the last leg of the camino. Too lazy to put on my poncho. Just trudged along hoping the hotel is at the next bend.Β 

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Being close to Nature makes for good contemplative monents. Whenever a gust of wind ruffles your hair, you cant help but smile. The aroma of cow manure brings you back to your senses, but in a positive way. For the life of me, I welcomed the scent of farm life. The simplicity of Galician life renders you grateful that you’re doing this walk, able to count your many blessings. A pilgrimage or an adventure? It is both for me. I wanted to challenge myself as much as I wanted to do my “spiritual retreat”. I’m having my moment. Can’t even bring myself to complain when it rains, gets really cold or when I couldn’t figure out where to step on a muddied path. Really.Β 

 



 

Walking, I am listening to a deeper way. Suddenly all my ancestors are behind me. Be still, they say. Watch and listen”. Β — Linda HoganΒ 

Buen Camino!