Tag Archive: Nomads



Just 80 kilometers south of Ulaan Bataar, the capital of Mongolia, lies Terelj National Park. You don’t find the red sands and sand dunes of Gobi Desert here, but it’s a good introduction to the hard life of nomads here in Mongolia. Treeless slopes and if you’re not careful, sands on your eyes and tongue. It takes a good and long bath to shake off the sands and dirt.

 

 

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Turtle Rock. One of many. Nature left on its own. Created by Wind and Water.

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2.7 million Mongolians. ONLY 15 million livestock. Plenty of meat to eat!

 

 

Badlands? Desert? Outback? Wilderness? I honestly don’t know how to call it. The thoughts that really cross my mind is that big question mark on how the Mongolian nomads and their livestock survive living here. It’s a hard life. Both for men and animals. Depending on the season, both move their “gers” — that circular tent which serves as housing — and their livestock pens from place to place. Amazing how they can disassemble such “gers” in a flash, and reassembled in just 3 days.

 

 

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A day with a nomadic family. This lady welcomed us, cooked for us, ate lunch with us.

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Circular tents housing Mongolian nomads. Yurts to some, GERS to them.

 

 

Nature seems to have been left on its own, to do as it pleases, in this corner of the world. Rock formations abound…… Forces of wind and water forming caves, monuments and “towers” in vast fields likely rich in an assortment of human and animal fossils. I asked the guide to bring us to Turtle Rock. The rock didn’t disappoint. Neither did Monkey Cave, also called Monks Cave since many monks took refuge here.

 

 

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Care for a ride on any of these wild horses? Just remember. Do Not Stroke. Do not Scream. me? DO NOT RIDE.

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MONKEY between the stones. See it? Monkey Cave is called Monks’ Cave as well.

 

 

It would have been a truly exciting day to go horseback riding around the park. Call me Chicken but these “DON’Ts” were enough to keep me from that saddle — DON’T STROKE THE HORSE. DON’T SCREAM. There were more, but these 2 “DON’Ts” will do. Now, there’s the camel too. And TWO-HUMPED CAMELS at that! The one we found looked real tall and pretty. But I’m reminded of my ONLY camel ride in Egypt years before and knew this TALL camel won’t do. Yes, call me Chicken with a capital C. Better safe, than sorry.

 

 

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For the BRAVE. Choose your horse. Free rides!

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Two humped camel! Only in Mongolia and China?

 

 

Around Terelj National Park, one finds many tourist ger camps. The nightly rate approximates what you’d otherwise pay for a hotel room. Cheaper if you stay with a real nomad family. It’s good for those who wish to retire at night in the wilds, listening to animal sounds while making a trip to the toilet which is housed in a separate wooden structure, watching the stars if the weather permits, and sleeping around a fire log stove that warms the tent. Us? A day trip will do. We fancy soaking ourselves in a bath tub after a sandy, windy day in the wilds. 😉

 

 

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Tourist Ger Camp. Feel,sleep LIKE A NOMAD, if you like. But your toilet is still a walk from your ger. Common facilities too.

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The Ger. The Nomadic Family. The livestock pens. The Visitors.


To Ger or Not To Ger? It was a no brainer for us city folks. We love Nature, we’re quite open to new adventures, but…….

 

 

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A REAL nomad family lives here. Spent time with them and had lunch in this ger.

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This is LUNCH. Milk tea, homemade bread, biscuits, dumplings.

 

 

No sleeping in the “ger” for us. These circular tents are meant for nomadic families. About 70% of Mongolians still live in them. They’re used to it. It suits their lifestyles. Us? We’d stay a day with a nomad family, watch them cook, eat lunch with them, check their livestock grazing somewhere in the field, and pray to God our bladders will hold till it’s time to head back to our hotel in the city.

 

 

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Homemade dumplings, STEAMED. Then the same boiling water was used to make our coffee. No kidding! More…… the excess hot water was used to clean the dishes.

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Lone horseman herding the livestock. Busy on his cellphone!

 

 

Say what you like, but sleeping in a ger is out of the question 🙂 I can’t imagine myself walking out of the tent in the middle of the night just to pee. That wooden structure they call “toilet” does not suit me. And I do need my hot shower so forget it. Come to think of it, neither would it do for “during the day” pee breaks. One of us checked it out, described it, and the idea “locked our bladders shut” till we got back to our hotel.

 

 

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They call her “something” which sounds like Kirle, or Girle. Whatever. She cooked lunch for us, and charmed us with her simplicity.

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This is Kirle’s ger. A small circular tent with 3 beds around the stove which serves to warm the residents inside. Outside are the makeshift livestock pens.

 

 

There are other options. Around Terelj National Park, we found many tourist ger camps where “modern gers” are available. The toilets are still outside the tent, but you can sleep inside while possibly listening to animal sounds just around the camp. Could that be a yak, a fox, a horse or a goat? Once you grow tired of “feeling and sleeping like a nomad” there’s the tourist hotel right outside. You like the idea? Suit yourself. Different strokes for different folks. 😉

 

 

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The “modern” way to stay and sleep inside a ger. Western toilets but still outside the tents. And a modern hotel just a few steps away.

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Another tourist ger camp. I expect more tourist camps to sprout out in the vast Mongolian plains.