Intramuros comes to mind whenever we have foreign visitors to take around Manila. Over the years, I’ve lost count of foreign guests and “balikbayans” I’ve toured around the former walled city and nearby historical and cultural spots. But today is different. We have a free day and we’ve decided we’d check out the now pedestrian zone around Plaza San Luis Complex where you’d find San Agustin Church, Casa Manila, Casa Blanca, Barbara’s, Cafe Intramuros, Batala Bar, and not too far away, the Centro de Turismo and Museo de Intramuros. I’m only too happy to stroll along the cobblestoned General Luna Street devoid of motor vehicles and the ubiquitous pedicabs and tricycles. Now you’d find visitors on bamboo bikes, segways or horse-drawn calesas competing for space with the pedestrians. It even felt strange to find the San Agustin Church without cars crowding its beautiful frontage. Such scenes completely changed, nay transformed Intramuros. About time!
San Agustin ChurchAcross the Church is the Plaza San Luis Complex
The coffee scene in Intramuros now counts Batala Bar and Cafe Intramuros alongside Barbara’s. We started our day with brunch in Batala Bar. From its windows, we have views either of the San Agustin Church or the Plaza and Casa Manila.There were not too many visitors but I need to mention that despite the summer heat, it was such a pleasant experience to go around the area. The service crew and the security staff are very friendly, accommodating and generous with their knowledge about the place. When people go out of their way to please, it is always a sign of good training and work ethics. 👍
Plaza San LuisView from Batala Bar
Casa Manila gives a glimpse into the lifestyle of the “illustrados” — Filipino families who enjoyed affluence during the Spanish times. The Casa or house is actually a mansion bearing the colonial style of architecture and taste — in stark contrast to the more modest “Bahay Kubo”. The antique furniture, wide windows, huge kitchen with antique cauldrons is a trip down memory lane. Like as far back as the 1850’s. Easily, one can spend an hour here. Around the Casa, one is never short on dining options.The cafes and restaurants are to be found just as soon as one exits Casa Manila via the staircase from the kitchen spilling into the plaza with the fountainat the center. There are also souvenir shops though I think they can improve in this department.
Inside San Agustin Church Inside Casa Manila
The Centro de Turismo is under renovation so we spent an hour or so instead in the Intramuros Museum. Housed in what was then the San Ignacio Church and Convent, it is a treasure trove of historical and religious artifacts. For sure, the Intramuros Admin did a terrific job on this project. A half day itinerary for tourists may include visits to San Agustin Church and its Convent cum Museum, Casa Manila, followed by lunch in any of the cafes and restaurants within the Plaza San Luis. And there’s also Ristorante Delle Mitre across the street where there’s a good assortment of desserts and baked goods.
Museo de IntramurosInside Museo de Intramuros
Now if you still have energy and time left,you can always proceed to Manila Cathedral and Fort Santiago. We did, but not so much to tour around but to check out Papa Kape inside Fort Santiago. We heard so much about their Black Gulaman Americano Coffee and the Tahoat Coffee — a concoction that blends “taho” and oat milk cafe. Both iced, we enjoyed our bev as well as the resident cats within the cafe. Not a bad day to spend like “local tourists” in our own city!
Mr. Cat sleeping on the best seat of the house. Tahoat and Black Gulaman Coffee best served “iced”. Papa Kape
Found this draft written sometime in 2021 quite amusing if not demanding of self-reflection. Have a read:
“With this global pandemic, where are you going? A donde vas? Well on its second year now, with 2nd and 3rd waves surging across the globe, we’ve been confined to our private sanctuaries. Back home, my outings haven’t even gone past my fingers and that full tank of diesel in my car has been sitting there for months. Dust accumulate over the car’s hood and roof, and the tire marks in the garage have grown into permanent stains. What to do, what to do? Dreams of being out on a beach with sand between our toes remain in the drawing boards. Simple joys like eating out with friends, grocery shopping and spa visits are now luxuries, even unsafe. I even miss my dentist of late. If they take away internet now, I’d likely go insane and unhappy. That’s my reality now. Maybe yours too. But I remain grateful for still being around, reading books and watching all the movies i missed on Netflix and discovering Asian drama on Viu. Oh, the things I miss!
Just sitting on a bench with friends would be a treat!
Once this pandemic blows over, I doubt travel will be the same. I’m only too glad I never hesitated to go whenever I could in the past 2 decades. I never regretted I quit my job way too early “to have a life”. I still smile over that one time I flew in from Vietnam one early morning, and flew out on same day — within 12 hours! — for Vienna to join up with friends. Drinking beer with them at 9am said a lot about how I felt then. Six airports, switching planes, many hours waiting at departure lounges and crossing time zones — all within a day. Mind you, I even stayed behind — alone — after they’ve all left. That spontaneity may be forever lost given today’s health protocols and travel bans.
It’s true that we have slowly adapted to our restricted lifestyle now. The big challenge is what to do, where to go AFTER all these settle down. Life is a multiple choice but the choices have been narrowed down to a short list. Flights aren’t that inexpensive now and bookings for accommodations may need more considerationsoutside of location, price and comfort. Destinations must consider safety protocols and those travel advisories will now be more keenly observed. For sure, crowded spots — those tourist traps — are big NO NOs. That may well include major cities, by the way.
I remember easing my boredom some years back while homebased in Madrid. Having done most day trips out of the Spanish capital, I found myself checking the supply sources of basic grocery products like garlic, turrones, vino, etc. Pretty soon, I’m on a train or bus going off to spots under the tourist radar searching for the best garlic and enjoying anise-flavoured bread and cafe cortado in Chinchon. Then there’s the famous grilled turbot called Rodaballo a la plancha from a fishing village in Getaria, the Arròs a Banda from Alicante, the strawberries from Aranjuez or the turrones de Cuenca. With friends, I repeated this same adventure when we visited Modena, Italy and brought home many bottles of Balsamico. I am now re-reading Peter Mayle’s “French Lessons” and “A Year in Provence” — solid guides for foodies and adventurers seeking local customs and events.
Offhand, I’m leaning towards the coastal towns of Spain, the less popular towns in Provence, the southern parts of Italy, a number of national parks in America, the uncrowded beaches in Hawaii and some uncharted spots in Hokkaido. Back home, I’m still searching for a safe, comfortable beach house I can drive to from time to time. Or maybe a lake house somewhere in Laguna. I envy a friend who has since moved out of the city and settled in a house where every sunrise and sunset gives her joy. The view of the Laguna de Bay from her porch and all that breeze is a major bonus. “
Home now for a good month. Finally found my rhythm back. The jet lag lasted a solid 2 weeks after crossing 3 time zones. Then we had some guests and visiting friends so we got busy organizing meet-ups and reunions. Plus, being home after 2 months of travel required some sprucing up, health-wise and grooming-wise. Trips to the doctors, dental clinics, lab tests, spas, beauty parlor, and other wellness-related stuff.
Meditation Garden near the Adoration Chapel
The rhythm of church duties and meditation sessions put me back to normalcy. On top of the simple and regular mundane stuff we do, I yearn for the spiritual and emotional tranquility following a hectic and physically-challenged routine imposed by traveling. You can say that “in between trips”, we yearn for solitude and calmness . A perfect reminder too to celebrate the blessings and express gratitude that we’re back without any major mishap or misadventure. After all, I bet our daily pace when traveling must be at least triple, if not way way more than our regular load.
Visiting Friends
It’s also time to apply or renew expiring/ expired visas to prep for future travels. I have a load here: UK, Schengen, Australian and New Zealand visas. Kinda tiring but one’s got to do what one’s got to do. This is when I get truly jealous of friends and kin holding stronger passports! Poor me had to submit bank certificates, travel itineraries, flight and hotel reservations, etc. And it really bugs me that some embassies issue only one year-visas after all the trouble.
But it’s good to find one’s rhythm. After all, life has many chapters and like a good book, we put it down to pause. Even reflect on what’s been and how things are. It’s being present. And being well. 👍
If I had my way, I’d either go to Lake Como or head south to Sicily. Perhaps even jump off from there to visit Malta, which has been in my bucket list for sometime. But this is an unplanned trip and the principal destination is Venezia for nieta’s participation in an art exhibit there. Met up with them, spent just another night in Venice and hopped on a train the next day to Firenze. Having based ourselves there for 7 days and 6 nights, we spent 3 whole days doing excursions to explore Tuscany and the Italian Riviera. After a week, off we went to the Eternal City. Not enough time to cover as much ground in historic Rome but we managed quite well. Nothing rushed. We skipped some but enjoyed whatever we managed to visit. This blog summary lists all the cities and neighborhoods we ticked off in about 2 weeks. Just click the links for more photos and details. Ciao!
After a visit to Maxxi Museum of Contemporary Art, we took a cab to Trastevere for dinner. Tourists and locals alike seemed to be all here, lining up for dinner. We’ve chosen to try Tonarello, in the Piazza Della Scala. We each ordered pasta as our “primi” and then shared a bowl of mussels. I know, we didn’t want to disappoint the Italians by making a meal out of our pasta dishes — Cacio y Pepe, Carbonara and Amatriciana — but those carbs served in their pans can be very filling. We love the moules, as well as the Prosecco. We even love the chaos and the noise you get when eating al fresco in some corner in Trastevere. The “shouts” to those in line when a table is vacated is a practiced skill. For desserts of gelato and tiramisu, we tried another barwithin the same area. As in somewhere more quiet. 😉
TrastevereChurch of Santa Maria Della Scala
Because traffic is banned from some sections like the piazzas, outdoor dining especially when it’s near-summer is truly delightful. Just around the block, tables under huge umbrellas were laid out with handicrafts, artisan jewellery, art pieces, and other curios. There was also an abundance of antique bric-a-brac in the outdoor stalls as well as in tiny vintage shops. The good coffee shops — called bars here — are easy to spot. There is almost always a line. Same goes for gelaterias which are spread all over Rome.
Al fresco Dining in TrastevereSant’ Eustachio Coffee on the go
Not sure if it’s because of the time of day we visited, but Monti seems less crowded. We had breakfast in one of the bars here. A breakfast which may well be a post-meal dessert as we ordered tiramisu and cannolis to go with our coffee. Well, we’re in Rome! The busker music then drew us out of the bar and into these cutesy, tiny vintage shops and record bars which of course took some of our precious time. All’s well, we’re having a good time. Not rushing, just browsing. At mid-morning, some activities have just began. Like bread deliveries to trattorias, shop openings, street-sweeping, etc. You can tell these Italians start their days late. And enjoy their coffee under the morning sun. (We took our breakfast table INSIDE).
Monti Neighborhood Monti
We’re glad we spent time in this neighborhood. The vibrant scene has such a local flavor that’s missing in many tourist traps. Of course, The tourists have already discovered these bohemian spots but somehow, that old character remains. Was trying to figure out what changed — and I’m guessing the tourists are here “on their own”, taking less photos, and NOT herded around in groups with a tour guide. No umbrellas! No pushing for that impossible “sans crowd” posterity shot before a fountain, a building, a Bernini sculpture. No cam whores! Why? Besides, the visitors seem to be more interested in the trattorias and osterias here. They must be hungry like us too, so the concerns and priorities differ. What do you think? 🤔
I’m praying I still have some leftover energy for this last stop in Italy before heading home. With 4 more nights in the Eternal City, we needed to decide which spots TO MISS. Easier to decide on which to give up, rather than which are the must-sees. There are just too many. As it turned out, the basilica interiors can wait. The walk-through the Roman Forum and the Colloseo interiors are struck off the list. The Vatican Museum and other museos can wait another day. And so it happened so naturally that the must-see spots were narrowed down to Saint Peter’s Square, the Vittorio Emmanuel and Piazza Venezia, Piazza Navona, Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, the Colloseo and the Roman and Imperial Forum from the roadside.
Fontana Di TreviSaint Peter’s SquareVittorio Emmanuel
It was a struggle to maintain one’s sanity given the flux of tourists in ALL the “must-tick- off” list in Rome. Unless you get there real early — as in the break of dawn — expect tourist traps. Even museum visits can be an ordeal when one pushes or gets pushed by the thick crowd. It was hot and humid when we reached Rome, and people around aren’t in the best of moods. We saw many gelato scoops on the ground — must have been dropped there by tourists angling for snapshots while navigating the crowds. We joined a walking tour “for context” as my apos would say. But we DIY’d the Vittorio Emmanuel, Saint Peter’s Square and Piazza Venezia. We made time to visit a museum of contemporary art, and lingered in 2 bohemian neighborhoods in Rome.
ColloseoPiazza NavonaPantheon
I think we did pretty well. The apos can always visit the spots they missed next time around. I remember renting a room in Rome with my niece in 2006 for 11 days. Thought that gives us much time to cover more ground but naaahhh, one should always be willing to pass up some good spots. On this trip, we only had 4 days. Ergo, we decided on a core list of mandatory visits if only so we can roam freely in some of the neighborhoods we found more interesting. Besides, the heat, the crowd, the sun were beginning to bother us. We have also been hailing cabs or booking Uber rides. All energy sapped to even take the bus or train. Thank goodness we’ve been eating real well here and elsewhere in Italy. We are adequately “nourished” and that kept our sanity intact.
Spanish StepsAltar of Fatherland
Next and final blog will be on the neighbourhoods we spent more time in. Monti and Trastevere charmed us. We liked the bohemian vibe and the dining scene we found very interesting. Watch this page 🙂
“I’m a big believer in winging it. I’m a big believer that you’re never going to find perfect city travel experience or the perfect meal without a constant willingness to experience a bad one. Letting the happy accident happen is what a lot of vacation itineraries miss, I think, and I’m always trying to push people to allow those things to happen rather than stick to some rigid itinerary.”
It’s been on my bucket list for the longest time. Oh well, there’s a lot more in that list and I’m just thinking Italy here. Italy draws me back time and again. It’s always been my happy place and I’m not just thinking food. And since I’m showing first-timer apos around, we did the holy triangle (Venice, Florence, Rome) but I made sure I squeezed in a destination that’s a first visit for all 3 of us. And Cinque Terre it is. Would have loved staying a few nights to explore all 5 villages but time was against us. We did just a day trip and covered only 4 towns: Manarola, Monterosso, Riomaggiore and Vernazza. We’ll check out Corniglia another time. Frankly, I would have been happy with just 2, but doing 2 more is a pleasant bonus.
VernazzaManarola
Our tour bus took us on an easy (but early) ride from Florence to La Spezia. Upon arrival, we took brief train rides going from one village to the next. In Manarola, there was a short hike if one were to get a magnificent view of the colorful houses built along the slope of the hill. Many tourists hiked up along a rocky path with railings and some spots presented photo opps . We spent some time here and yes, snapped a lot of photos. Our first set of posterity shots in Cinque Terre! Along the rocky path, we spotted doors presumably leading to residences. I imagined myself coming out of one of those doors opening up to these awesome scenes especially the sunset views.
Monterosso Riomaggiore
Manarola was our “introduction” to this fabulous place. Can’t believe I missed this place in all my visits to Italy. It’s less than 3 hours from Florence, even nearer than Venice. We love the vibe of all coastal villages. My “beach bum” dream comes into gear whenever we get near any body of water. There is something very relaxing watching the sun rise or set against an ocean or sea view. Or sipping your coffee as the sea breeze wafts through your hair. Gelato stops became the order of the day, and since we are in the Ligurian region, it’s trofie pasta with pesto sauce for lunch. Too bad we failed to try their anchovies! But the seafood salad appetizers made up for it. 😘
You need good strong legs to do this again.
After Manarola, we came upon Vernazza. Easily my favorite town. I love how the “busyness” of the town with bustling street vendors and the lively church by the shore with many small boats not so neatly “parked”side by side, make up a vibrant village replete with al fresco cafes and fruit stalls. It’s like a scene from a movie. The same tourist crowd seems to be charmed by the next 2 lively towns of Monterosso and Riomaggiore. But Monterossoboasts of a longer shoreline, attracting a beach crowd. It was a cold day when we visited but the sun is out so the low temps didn’t deter the younger ones to lay out beach towels and strip to their swimsuits and hit the water. Oh, the recklessness and energy of youth!
Our trip took a solid 12 hours, about 5-6 hours accounted for by the time spent on the bus. It’s like spending just slightly more than an hour in each village. It would be nice to revisit and spend nights in one of the towns. Dilemna is, which town? I’d likely choose Vernazza but one vote went to Monterosso. We all agreed we’d hike up to Corniglia next visit. So there. Ciao!
We came for the leaning tower, that iconic landmark of Pisa. But found more. “Tuttomondo” (All World) is one of Keith Haring’s last artworks before he passed away in 1990. The mural is on the rear wall of the Sant’ Antonio Abate church in Pisa, a short distance from the train station. Haring’s famous quote still resonates to this day: “Art should be something that liberates your soul, provokes the imagination and encourages people to go further.”Keith has a penchant for street art and graffiti art, as if searching for an audience that is more akin to the average Joe. In the 80’s, his career yielded 50 “public” artworks bearing social and political undertones. His vibrant works evoke motion and even seem cartoon-ish, a flash of energy represented in colorful and fun symbols, with messages bordering on activism.
We took our time viewing the mural. Huge as it is, we surmised we’d likely spend more minutes just staring at it. Finding this burger place just across it, we decided almost mindlessly to have our lunch there. The glass panels offered an unobstructed view of the mural and so that really worked for us. On full stomachs, we were ready to hop on a bus in search for the iconic tower. There was a big crowd! My first time here was in 1986, and bursting with energy then, I didn’t pass up the chance to climb up. At the time, I think the tower was leaning at a slightly sharper angle. Just a few years after my 1986 visit, experts came to “stabilise” the tower so it was closed to the public for some time. By the time I returned in 2000, it was open again. I visited a few more times: in 2009 and in 2016. So this visit is my 5th!
Art Burger across the Keith Haring Mural
In all of the 5 visits, I lament that I only did day trips from Firenze rather than spending more time to explore the town. I am sure there is more to see. But the tourist crowd turns me off. Also there were so many pickpockets. Apo caught a young girl pulling her bag during the short bus ride. While shopping around the stalls just outside the square, I can sense we weren’t so safe and held on to my purse. While buying train tickets at the machine in the station, there were teens in line ahead of us, trying to chat us up. I would have found that charming under “safer” circumstances but my mood didn’t take me there. A pity. But my radar was up and we simply opted to be more wary.
On an excursion from Firenze, we visited Monteriggioni and Chianti and was delighted to receive wine lessons from AGRICOLA POGGIO AI LAGHI where we tasted 4 kinds of wine, oils and balsamic vinegar. It was a wonderful, fun-filled session and everyone in the group thoroughly enjoyed the wine and oil tasting as much as the humorous spiels by the host. They even served us a good pasta dish. It was a penne pasta dish where we were all encouraged to spice it up with their chili pepper olive oil. Not bad. I actually like it despite the fact that the penne came from a box. (Seems we’ve been spoiled, feasting on homemade pasta all our days here in Italy) But I particularly enjoyed their thick, syrupy balsamic vinegar from Modena. Served with toast, but I can imagine it pairing well with some fresh strawberries. Hmmm. But back to wine, we found the winery so warm and welcoming. Quite a sensory experience just by being there, savouring every drop, every sniff, every swirl, every gulp. So very pleasant, indeed!
Cheers!2 kinds of balsamic vinegar. Gold spoon or Silver spoon?
The winery caters to special events and parties. I can imagine big birthday and wedding celebrations here. Or corporate events, like a product launch. Must be equipped with a good kitchen, I presume. The set-up is quite impressive. The vineyards extend to the Monteriggioni area, a small commune with an interesting walled settlement dotted with tiny stores and cafes. A small chapel inside must have welcomed some pilgrims doing the Via Francigena as Chianti and Monteriggioni are along the Tuscan parts of the camino. When I saw the brown markers — as contrasted with the yellow and blue markers of the Camino de Santiago de Compostela — I was reminded of my pilgrimage walk some 8 years earlier from Viterbo to the Vatican/Rome.
Entrance to the WineryThe Wine Tasting Room
We may all be familiar with Chianti as a region and as a wine, but not Monteriggioni. When the guide gave us an hour to freely roam around, I thought that wasn’t enough time. Turns out it was really such a small compact commune that an hour is all you need. Yet it presents itself with a decent square, a tiny church, a cafe and a few stores selling local handicraft around the square or from the narrow alleys. Actually I felt I was in one of those Disney “lands”. Except that we had to hike up a decent distance to reach the piazza. Only needed a choo choo train to ferry us around and save some breath. 😩
Tuscany’s landscapes are a feast to the eyes. Coming from Firenze where art permeated the city’s soul, it was nice to breath in fresh air while sipping wine sourced from the vineyards right in front of you. The landscapes framed in the walled commune’s huge, arched gates are so pretty. Imagine this same scenery just before the grapes are harvested. Or when spring flowers are in bloom. Or even the tall, thin cypress trees swaying as the wind blows. Bellissima!
Most tourists take this excursion out of Florence to visit Siena and San Gimignano. Did it in 2009; did it again this 2024 with “apos”. Like me, I’m sure they’d enjoy this part of Tuscany. If Florence is a Renaissance city, then it’s all medieval as you reach Siena and San Gimignano. All 3 teeming in art, history and culture. If only for these 3, Tuscany is truly a dream destination. For people like Frances Mayes (author: Under The Tuscan Sun), it even is home. Tuscany. Rolling hills, medieval buildings, breathtaking sceneries. Then throw in the vineyards and good food, and staying is no longer an option but a wonderful decision.
Siena’s Piazza del CampoSiena Cathedral
The Siena Cathedral is hailed as the prettiest among Italy’s Gothic Cathedrals. The alternating black and white marbles present a unique striped exterior while the interiors hold even more jaw-dropping elegance and beauty, while continuing with the black and white band-striped theme. Che magnifico! I love that this heritage site is devoid of motor vehicles but that can only mean that visitors should be prepared to walk. Somehow, being closed to traffic gives Siena that “frozen in time” charm. Just like Venezia and many parts of Firenze.
Siena’s Lovely Cityscape Michelin Guide Had This Listed
Our local guide calmly narrated the significance of the piazza and how it is used for horse races called “Palio”. Quite insane, this centuries old race. It’s a horse race, so the winner is the horse, not the jockey. I mean, the unsaddled horse that first crosses the finishing line may be without a jockey and still win. Just 3 laps around the fan-shaped piazza. 10 horses. Approximately, the race lasts 90 seconds. And they hold this pageant twice a year every July 2 and August 16 since the 15th century!
So MedievalWorld’s Best Gelato (2024)?
Our luck held out in Siena. The guide recommended where we can enjoy good Cacio y Pepe — Papei Trattoria. Pici Cardinale, and Pappardelle al Cinghiale were likewise excellent! And more luck with our gelato. The ones we had in Siena were good. But the gelato in San Gimignano even better. A sign claims it’s named most popular gelateria in 2024. But 2024 isn’t over yet. Whatever. Not complaining about the gelato though. And over the moon with our lunch at Papei.
San Gimignano’s medieval towers from the 12th to the 13th centuries now count over a dozen. A big drop from the more than 70 towers centuries ago when they adorned this Tuscan hill town. The 12th century Collegiata is often mistaken for a cathedral or duomo with its treasure of dramatic frescoes of the New Testament. The towers, the “duomo” , the piazzaand the medieval architecture should paint a beautiful silhouette against the skyline at sundown, the way I viewed it back in 2009. No such luck this time. But the elves are happy with their gelato!
lifeisacelebration 