It’s my 4th time in Fukuoka, and my 2nd visit this 2025. But it’s my 1st time visiting with young adults, all 3 of them, all under 30. I pulled up the average to mid 30’s and that changes the whole complexion of this holiday. For starters, they booked the flights, chose the hotel and area (Tenjin), drew up the travel itinerary including dining options. I’m not complaining but I had to skip some meals as I couldn’t keep up with their appetites and bar trips. Also, we’re here “officially” for an art event — the Art Fair Asia Fukuoka (AFAF). My nieta has 2 art works on exhibit along with other Filipino contemporary artists. We arrived a day early and left 4 days after the event. Enough time to explore Fukuoka as well as do a day trip to visit Dazaifu Shrine, Beppu Ropeway, Lake Kinrin and YUFUIN Floral Village.
Art by Anna Bautista. Art Fair Asia Fukuoka 2025. Dazaifu Shrine
On Day 4, our “travel planner” cum artist took us to Fukuoka Art Museum. Oh, this we enjoyed so much. The museum has an impressive collection of works by contemporary artists to include Miro, Basquiat, Warhol and Kiefer whose exhibit we visited in Palazzo Strozzi in Florence last year. The collections also included many artworks by Japanese artists. The Museum itself is an interesting work of art. Just outside the museum building is that famous pumpkin by Yayoi Kusama. That familiar yellow polka-dotted pumpkin!
Yayoi Kusama in Fukuoka Art Museum Fukuoka Art Museum
From the museum, we traced the water edge to find “& Locals”, a cafe serving set meals which you eat overlooking the lake. They were simple meals like the mackerel I had with the finest-tasting tea. Interestingly, there were meal instructions to pour tea over the rice meal for better flavor! Plus we all enjoyed the dessert of matcha kakigori we shared. The lunch set us up for a good stroll across Ohori Park with all its tranquil beauty under an overcast sky. The temps are a tad lower compared to the summer heat that welcomed us on Day 1.
Weather forecast was rainfall throughout our Fukuoka holiday but we were blessed with cloudy skies with a few sunny spells. No rain except for a few slight drizzle episodes. The Art Fair was successfully launched and the after-event party a fun time. We enjoyed all our meals and all attractions. It was a breeze exploring Fukuoka, and would have wanted to stay longer. Seriously. But all’s well. We can always plan another visit π
We’ve covered Fukuoka in 2017 and 2022, both times in autumn. This spring, we enjoyed the Sakura season from Hiroshima, Miyajima (part of Hiroshima)and Fukuoka. Only 3 items in our agenda — cherry blossoms, food trip and shopping (for most). Our hotel in Fukuoka is right next to the Hakata Station where many shops and restos are, so that’s very convenient. I am not that keen on checking out more spots as I’m booked to be back later (and warmer) this year for some event. For now, let it be truly relaxing . And for more Sakura blooms, we trooped to Maizuru Park. We found many locals enjoying a picnic or just lazing around under the cherry blossoms. Hanami is taken quite seriously here and we’re glad to enjoy that with the locals here.
Maizuru Park
The park is built adjoining Ohori Park around the ruins of Fukuoka Castle. The castle used to be the largest castle in the Kyushu area (Edo Period 1603-1868) but only the walls and a few turrets remain. The story goes that the castle was best forgotten as a symbol of Japan’s feudal past. Just like Shukkeien Park in Hiroshima, Maizuru also has an art museum beside it.
Maizuru Park
After viewing all these hanami spots, we were only too glad we are experiencing the last few days of Sakura here. The crowds are mostly locals, much unlike the thick crowds to be found in the bigger cities like Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka. The weather cooperated — mostly sunny days in Hiroshima and Fukuoka with temps tempered by our thick and warm clothes. As a big group DIY-ing it, we were surprised we never disbanded nor got separated riding buses, ferries and trams. Dining and shopping was never a problem as our hotels enjoyed a good location. After many trips to Japan, this is only my 2nd time to witness Cherry blossoms in full bloom. First time with the tourist crowds, this 2nd time with the locals. Certainly worth the trip!
Third time is a charm. So they say. The first was in autumn, the next one in winter. This time in spring, in time for Sakura or hanami — a Japanese term meaning cherry blossoms viewing. At the time we planned this trip, we hardly planned around the Sakura season. But the timing’s perfect. And we made good on visiting 4 famous cherry blossoms viewing spots here in Hiroshima.
Hiroshima A Bomb Dome in Peace Memorial Park
Amidst the grim reminders of the horrors of war, the white sakura blooms lining the river are truly beautiful. Motorboats plying the river, passing the Atomic Bomb Dome, give tourists a respite just viewing the cherry blossoms following a heart rending episode in the nearby war museum. A good walk from here, a wharf serves ferries taking in passengers from the Peace Park to Miyajima Island. Still part of Hiroshima, but the 40-minute ferry ride to the island offers more hanami with over a thousand cherry trees along the island’s walking paths towards the iconic floating Torii gate . Another option (which I took on earlier visits) is to take the 30 minute train to Miyajima-guchi and then hitch on the 10-minute ferry to the island. Yet another option is to ride the streetcar (in lieu of the train) all the way to Miyajima-guchi and take the 10-minute ferry. Cheaper, but a few minutes longer.
We took this streetcar after the ferry ride from Miyajima island to Miyajima- guchi Port. Either take this or the train back to Hiroshima.
Oh, let me just say that visiting Miyajima is always a good option sakura time or not. More so if you’re a big fan of oysters and eels. In this tiny island, you’d also be surprised to know that they have their own brewery. What to pair with your oysters and congee eels? There’s a choice of sake or beer. Good combo if you ask me. And then there are those maple-leaf shaped cakes with varied fillings — tried the red bean, matcha and chocolate. Good with Miyajima Coffee , or if you care for more sweets, an affogato from the same Miyajima Coffee Shop.
Hiroshima Castle
Back in Hiroshima city proper, one can visit Hiroshima Castle. You’d find less cherry trees here but if you’re visiting this reconstructed castle, those sakura blooms are a bonus during this time. And a short walk from here is the Shukkeien Park. There may be even less cherry blossom trees planted here but the entire landscape is sooo soothing to the eyes and calming to frayed nerves. The ponds, the bamboo trees, the tea garden, rock gardens, all add to the charm. Pink and white blossoms welcome visitors right by the entrance to the Park. I highly recommend this garden park especially if one has the luxury of spending 1-2 hours here. I notice there is an adjoining Museum and a lovely garden cafe too. It’s not a bad idea to spend an entire afternoon in this spot.
Shukkeien ParkShukkeien Park
So there. Four spots for your next hanami. Sayonara!
This 2023 is a year marked by so many milestones. In a couple more months, we’d prep to welcome a new year and I just can’t wait to give my yearend update! I know, I’m 2 months early but there is just so much to tell. Or write about. Early on, the year started with health travails within the family. Throughout the year, we’ve learned to manage the heartbreaks and inconveniences. To some extent, we even managed to ignore the problems and carried on celebrating life. At this stage, we felt we just can’t skip nor miss, or worse, waste the opportunities. Life will always have its ups and downs. The challenge lies in how we can stay happy. And hopeful.
Half Full or Half Empty? To see or not to see? Dead of Winter in Early January in Japan
Started the year with a winter trip to Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto. A visiting niece has long wanted and has never been to Japan so I obliged. After all, Japan is always a good idea. Yeah, I was in this land of the sun just last November 2022 and it hasn’t been 2 months yet! And a few months later around spring, I’d find myself back again in the Kansai region with my 2 other nieces. I can’t believe I made 3 trips to Japan in a span of 5 months. Not that I’m complaining. I love Japan.
Up North in Sapa, VietnamAn unplanned trip to Phuket, Thailand
The trip to northwestern Vietnam was a welcome break amidst all the stress from life’s uncertainties. Never mind that it took 6 hours going from Hanoi to Sapa. If only for the clouds rolling through the mountains carved by rice field terraces, as well as the coffee scene, this trip to Northern Vietnam is worth it. And the impromptu meet-ups in Phuket, Thailand with our OZ branch of the family turned out to be the perfect stress-buster. As they say, when life hands you lemons, make lemonade! Such a lovely time we had basking under the sun and digging our toes in the sand. The holiday resort we stayed in was perfect for us. The resort activities kept us entertained and there was plenty of time to catch up with one another too.
The Grand Homecoming of MC ’73Reunion
The year 2023 likewise marked the golden jubilee for my college batch. More than 5 decades of friendship. We did well with a yearbook, a beach weekend, trip to a pottery workshop, many luncheons and cocktails, and a lovely video and collage of all our homecoming events. What a blessing to experience all these — reminiscing our teenage years in college and delighting in how we still manage to enjoy each other’s company as we rolled into our 70’s. With some now living abroad, we have missed each other far too long. But it never took that long to pick up where we left off. An old joke persists. An old story repeated countless times.
Degustacion Treat at MetizBirthday Lunch at Beso Beso
And the golden jubilarian turning septuagenarian? It all happened in 2023. What a milestone! In our batch, I was the youngest. The last to turn 70. To my elves, I’m ancient. The same elves who treated me to a degustacion in Metiz Restaurant. Not wanting to go home yet after dinner, we lingered at our favorite hotel lobby just chatting till they closed shop. On the very day I turned 70, we had lunch in Beso Beso which translates to “kisses”. A lovely time for the family as we then proceeded to hear Sunday Mass after lunch and indulged in some shopping later, before another family dinner at Made Nice. It was a Sunday, a birthday truly made nice as we stayed together a good part of that day. Quite rare now as everyone gets busy with new jobs, a career, some projects. An opportunity not to be missed. Nor wasted. Memories. Life is a celebration.
The highlight of our recent trip to the Kansai area was the full blooming cherry blossoms or Sakura. So much worth the 3 day extension we made to base ourselves in Kyoto after Osaka. Week earlier, we simply visited Kyoto as a day trip from Osaka. On our last 4 days, we based ourselves in this old corner of Japan to enjoy the Sakura scenery. And to continue our love for the seafood markets of Osaka and Kyoto.
Look at those prawns! Love these lobsters. We had two β with loads of cheese!
Our heads were spinning just looking at these beautiful sea creatures, steaming or grilling. We found this lobster vendor in Kuromon Market in Osaka offering us a small round table behind him so we promptly claimed our seats and pointed out the lobsters, prawns, squid, and unagi to grill. We also asked for oysters but he didnβt have any so we were allowed to order from the next stall, along with some scallops! Asians that we are, he understood we badly needed our rice which he didnβt have. So one of us trooped to the nearby Family Mart to buy steamed rice which the store kindly warmed to complete our very late but sumptuous lunch!
Butter and drops of miso on my scallops! That squid was grilled to perfection!
From Kiyomizu-Dera to Fushimi Inari to Gion the whole morning and a good part of the early afternoon. It started raining in Gion so we decided to call it a day, but not without visiting the Kuromon Market in Nambashi area near Dotonbori. It was well past 3pm but since our last full meal was breakfast at our hotel before setting out, this feast was our very late lunch that may well be early dinner.
We brought home fresh strawberries but they werenβt as sweet as the ones we ate here. Spotted: yes, those were fresh UNI that we sampled after the strawberries! First time I used scissors to cut up my oysters!
Memories of Kuromon persisted till our last day in Kyoto. From our Kyoto hotel, we took the subway to visit Nishiki Fish Market. But we didnβt just eat fish or seafood. Because it rained, we scrapped our trip to Kobe and searched for the premium beef in Nishiki. We werenβt disappointed. We also found more sea creatures here. This time, we ate standing up! No tables in this cramped little space with barrels for tables and smelling of sizzling, grilling, steaming seafood all around. This beats the 4D ride in USJβs Hogwarts area!
Thatβs our Kobe steak! Crab Sticks sitting on a bed of Kani miso. Spotted: Octopus on skewers. I actually wanted to try Tako Tamago but found none. Yβknow, that octopus with its head standing upright bcoz someone stuffed a quail egg into its small head. Mean, huh? My apologies.
The rainy day may have ruined our plans to visit other Sakura spots around Kyoto but thankfully, we had our fill of cherry blossoms the days before. From Kuromon Market in Osaka to NishikiMarket in Kyoto, itβs a food trip hard to forget. Our jolly bellies speak for ourselves and you bet weβd repeat the adventure in our next visit of Japan like itβs a ritual! Sakura and Food is our version of βhanamiβ in Kansai!
So many choices in Nishiki! And look at those oysters with Ikura and Uni β all my favorites on a single shell! Holding that Kani miso like itβs a pricey jewel! Love that man behind us! He also enjoyed watching us eat like itβs the last day of our lives.
I have visited Japan in all 4 seasons but never quite timed it right for Sakura. On this 3rd visit in the last 4 months (yes, Virginia, I was in Fukuoka last Nov 2022, back in Osaka/Tokyo last January 2023, and here in Kansai again), I was eager to check out those white and pink cherry blossoms! While in Osaka, the blooms just started to make a show at the Osaka Castle and Mint Bureau. Not much luck in Nara Deer Park though.
Osaka CastleOsaka Castle
By the time we reached Kyoto, Sakura was in full bloom. Walked the entire Philosopher’s Path and was enchanted by those blooms along the canal. Truth is I was on edge while our taxi passed so many canals and parks from Kyoto Station to Ginkakuji Temple. I actually longed to jump out of the cab as I saw lines of locals and tourists enjoying Sakura everywhere!
Philosopher’s PathPerfect for those pre-nup shots?
As we covered the entire 2 kilometer stretch, we made stops at a couple of shrines and even visited a garden with several varieties of camellia blooms. Reikan-Ji Temple is actually a nunnery with a lovely pond and stone garden. Nothing huge or fancy, but the camellia blooms make up for the stark simplicity of the temple grounds.
Camellia Blooms at Reikan-Ji TempleThe Path Towards Ginkakuji Temple
Since we fancied the scenery in Gion while our cab drove us to Ginkakuji, we took the bus at the end of Philosopher’s Path for the Geisha District. But not without late lunch at the Pontocho Alley. Love the vibes here, but so did many others crowding the alley and the Kamo riverside walk where more cherry blossoms are truly a feast for the eyes, a balm to the soul. A week earlier, we visited this same area and there were only hints of the sakura around Gion’s Hanamikoji Alley dotted with ochayas and those traditional and quaint machiya or centuries-old two-storey wooden structures.
Kamo Riverwalk near Pontocho AlleyYasaka Shrine
Further down the geiko area, we went in search of Starbuck’s first tatami coffee shop. We weren’t as lucky as those who claimed spots on the tatami but managed to enjoy our matcha lattes on western seats inside this old wooden structure that must have earlier functioned as a tea house centuries ago. I just love Gion! No luck too spotting a geisha or her assistant Maiko, but strolling along these narrow alleys and enjoying more cherry blossoms in full bloom make for a lovely, unforgettable holiday.
We are home, and still dreaming of the sites we visited and the food we enjoyed. Times are better and “lost in translation” is soon a thing of the past. Google translate and the young helpful Japanese make life so much easier. When we touched down and trooped out of the Namba train station, we couldn’t figure out which direction to take to reach our hotel. When the map says it’s near, hailing a cab is out of the question and that means we should drag our luggage to our hotel just a couple of blocks away. A pair of young Japanese happily walked us to our hotel — crossed 2 streets with us and even offered to take my suitcase. Using Google translate, the young fellow asked if there’s some other place we’d like to pass by before checking in at our Namba hotel. Bless their hearts!
Love how these young Japanese ham it up!
On the way to our hotel — both in Osaka and Tokyo — we took note of all those red and gold lanterns, lightings, food stalls and shops where purchases are so neatly wrapped. Those snack foods packed in cute boxes and bags, as well as young adults in twinning outfits or in school’s winter uniforms. I just love how traditional structures, decor and traditions have survived and withstood the onslaught of modernity in all aspects of Japanese life. Like onsen, tea ceremonies, food alleys, Shinto and Buddhist shrines, temples and pagodas dotting the city landscapes. And how the locals show respect with a bow after rendering service even when no one is looking!
My love affair with Japan began long before I started traveling. Back when I was still in school, I had a weekend foster brother who is Japanese. Kazuhiro is from Osaka but we’ve lost touch many years ago. How I wish we remained in contact. My father who never had a son readily welcomed this Japanese lad on the many weekends he spent with us in our ancestral home in the province. I remember his fastidious attention to cleaning the bathroom that our family made sure he bathed LAST. My father would egg us all to hit the showers before Hiro — as we fondly called him — took his bath. Invariably, Hiro left behind him sparkling clean bathroom tiles after all the scrubbing. And that includes brushing the bathroom slippers squeaky clean!
My only regret was that we were too busy feeding Hiro with local delicacies instead of leaving him to try his kitchen skills. Back then, we weren’t too keen on Japanese cuisine. Sushi and ramen were totally not favoured over mami and siopao to ignoramus like moΓ and eating raw would have been unwelcome even to my Pa and Ma. Too bad. At the time, what I considered “unmistakably Japanese” then was limited to thoroughly clean, a manicured and pebbled garden, a bow to show appreciation, welcome, and bye, perfectly-cooked riceand good tea!
Been here countless times, each time with someone visiting Japan for the firsttime. That means checking out all spots in a touristβs itinerary and getting βtrappedβ in camera-touting crowds. I wrongfully assumed that the crowds would have thinned because itβs winter but obviously that idea is way off. Shinjuku, Shibuya, Asakusa, Ginza, Harajuku, to name a few. There wasnβt even enough time in the 5 days we were in the capital to check out Odaiba or Roppongi!
Memory Lane or Piss Alley?Mt. Fuji and the Metropolis
Our hotel was in Shinjuku area right across the Observatory at the top of Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. Quite a surprise to view Mt. Fuji very clearly from many of its glass windows, sans any clouds. As they say, the great dame makes a solid appearance come winter time. A short walk from here is the Shinjuku JR Station which is right next to an alley fondly referred to as Memory Lane as itβs been there since the 1940s after the war. It is now called Omoide Yokocho, home to some 60 bars and food stalls. Not exactly the comfiest place to have a proper meal but if youβre into a few drinks and bar food like βanything grilledβ and some seafood, itβs the place. Claim your stools and enjoy. We had a marvellous time drinking and dining with 3 young Aussies and a couple of locals who love raising their glasses, shouting Kampai! Even the bar hostess grilling and serving our drinks looked like having a good time with us.
Sensoji Temple
Now, if you want to do some temple and shrine-spotting, donβt miss Sensoji Temple in Asakusa. The way to the temple is far from spiritual though as crowds mill around the many souvenir and snack booths. But if itβs serious shopping you plan to do, thereβs Harajuku, Ginza and Shibuya-jungamae. Well frankly, thereβs more but for this trip we only managed these spots. The alley in Takeshita-Dori right across the JR Harajuku Station caters to the younger set whilethe other two have shops with more variety. Some signature shops can be found there as well, and we were lucky to find Louis Vuittonβs pop up store in collab with Japanese renowned contemporary artist Yayoi Kusama in Jungamae. The installations were fantastic and somehow, the experience made up for my missing out on a visit to the artistβs museum in Tokyo.
Tokyo is for the young. I still canβt get used to the rushing subway crowd and the so many confusing exits at every train station. My heart pumps nearly out of my chest each time, right through the ride standing toe to toe during rush hours and heaving a sigh of relief only upon exiting. Maybe that explains why and how we ended up taking the Shinkansen with our green pass to savor country air in the less touristy spots.
Yayoi Kusama Museum in Tokyo in my list but no way I could just drop in as the Museum is fully booked the entire week we were in Tokyo. Bummer. But some days you get lucky. It just so happened that Louis Vuitton has set up a pop-up store in Harajuku, Tokyo to showcase its 2nd collaboration with the renowned Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama. The store is near the JR Harajuku Station’s Takeshita Exit and runs till January 22, 2023.
Louis Vuitton in collab with Yayoi Kusama
Unmistakably Yayoi with the ubiquitous polka dots, the fashion house truly outdid itself. The space has a lifelike sculpture of the famous contemporary artist wearing the distinctive yellow and black polka dotted shirt to contrast her signature red hair. Her designs are carried in LV’s bags and other leather products, RTWs, accessories and even perfumes. In a separate space, one finds mirrored balls and other installations. All these I enjoyed without having to buy anything from the pop-up store nor even from the permanent LV Store which I likewise visited. I would have wanted to but the price tags gave me a migraine. π
Our luck held on till the next day when we visited the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building’s Observatory. A grand piano bearing Yayoi’s polka dot design sits in one corner of the top floor, inviting visitors to try their hand and play a tune. So, if you’re visiting Tokyo after January 22, you can view Yayoi Kusama-inspired installations in any of the permanent LV stores or pop in at the Tokyo Met Government’s Observatory in Shinjuku.
Mt. Fuji isn’t hiding behind any clouds this winter. From the Observatory of Metropolitan Government Building across our hotel, Mt. Fuji can be spotted clearly. One morning, we decided to hop on a JR line to reach Otsuki (pronounced Otski) for a closer view of the majestic mountain. But we found many of the other train passengers heading towards a rail express line towards Lake Kawaguchi. Seeing a poster in the station of Mt. Fuji viewed from the lake, we decided to pay extra for another hour-long train ride towards Kawaguchiko where we found a taxi to drive us around the lake then back to the station. We’re happy with the photos we snapped but knew they’d have turned out better if it was later in the day when the mountain is reflected in the lake waters. At noontime, no such dreamy reflection as the sun shone brilliantly.
Viewed from Tokyo Metropolitan Building in Shinjuku, TokyoViewed from the Train
Our taxi driver took our photos as he very kindly offered so we two can be photographed in a single frame. We tried not to squint our eyesand stood still for more posterity shots. There were not too many tourists at the time and the few we met are staying the night in one of the lakefront hotels. Next time I come here, I should do that. The view is fantastic especially when the dame shows up in all her splendour sans the clouds.