The first time was in 2017 to celebrate my birthday in a country that has been in my bucket list far too long. And Machu Picchu has been listed for the longest time, waiting to be ticked off! This time around, I made sure I’m in the best of health to truly enjoy this magical Incan citadel, only to learn I unfortunately have high altitude issues. Not as bad as it was 7 years ago, but it was concerning enough to make me mindful. When our guide led the group to climb up further for a better view, I begged off and waited solo for them to climb down and fetch me — after nearly an hour in a spot with no shade but with a fantastic view of the citadel. You bet I took endless photos to a point I confused myself which images to keep. And with so many tour groups passing and pausing in my spot, I must have heard 5 versions of the Machu Picchu mystery.

Stayed the night in this hotel in Sacred Valley before the Machu Picchu visit.

The last time I was here, I was struck with altitude sickness. Guess what? I had it again. But this time, milder. The 2017 episode must have messed up my mind as I wasn’t prepared for it and honestly didn’t know what to do. This time around, I had more confidence despite the migraine, racing heartbeat and low oxygen levels. My oxymeter says oxygen dropping to 70 but I made some breathing exercises and managed to elevate it to 80+, still below the 95 level but the quick relief gave me comfort. When it dropped below 70, I thought the gadget wasn’t functioning right but knowing the brain is affected by lack of oxygen, I headed to the hotel’s reception and asked for an oxygen tank. Voila. Problem solved. And unlike before, I stayed calm so my heartbeat was better managed below 100. (It raced to 127 well past my bedtime back in 2017) All’s well!

At the start of the hike, our guide led us uphill “for a better view”. I kept nudging him to ask how much further and higher, but this excitable guide kept saying I’d get the energy from the Incan Citadel to forge ahead! Naaaaah. I put my foot down and reminded him that I have a heart condition and would not climb any higher. This is my second visit here and knew it wasn’t necessary to climb up for a better view. No way. The view I see is perfect for me. I just couldn’t have it better. Best view without the struggle! So the rest of the troop climbed higher and came back for me after an hour – in a spot that could do with some shade. I drained my tube of sunblock and must have smelled sweet enough for a swarm of bees to chase me some half hour while waiting.

We may not have solved the “mystery” of Machu Picchu but everyone in the group was very happy for the experience. Tired. Yes. Fatigued. Yes. But just the thought that we finally got here after 5 years of planning — with all the mishaps — made us all feel fulfilled. Yes, I think that’s what it felt like. For me, the fact that I realized I have altitude issues renders me mindful on how I travel. Regrettably, I had to abstain from all the pisco sour cocktails and vino. Drank myself to nearly drowning point 😂 that it disturbed my sleep. It was a struggle but I managed. I just feel bad skipping on the wine especially during happy hours. 😩