Tag Archive: Fort Kochi



We arrived back in Cochin by noontime to catch our midnight homeward flight to Manila. Enough time to do a 2nd pass of the Kochi Muziris Biennale 2026. The first visit was in a small, restricted venue called David Hall, an art gallery cum cafe. But on our next shot of the Kochi Biennale, we visited the main exhibition in Aspinwall House, a waterfront heritage mansion that used to be the headquarters of a British trader of spices, coffee, rubber and coir. Distinctively Dutch colonial in style, Aspinwall House is now a major cultural hub typically open to the public during the biennale. A fine choice for the prestigious exhibition, with its white-painted buildings, high ceilings, and large verandahs. On one side are verandahs looking out to sea and the inner courtyard is littered with leaves crunching as people step on them. Spotted around 5 old ladies sweeping the leaves all afternoon we were there. A pretty, mesmerizing sight.

Aspinwall House. This all white seafront mansion is the primary venue for the Kochin – Muziris Biennale 2026 titled “For The Time Being”.
Sweepers around Aspinwall House

I do not know the artists but this once in 2 years biennale is certainly well-curated and couldn’t have chosen a better venue for its primary hub. The Dutch colonial heritage house is so pretty in all its whiteness and gabled facade. It was just a short line to get in and we found many local visitors to this biggest contemporary art festival in the whole of Asia. 66 artists from 25 countries. 29 venues. We could have spent more time but had to squeeze in some last minute shopping before rushing to the airport to catch our flight. A pity. I particularly liked the series of etched copper plates suspended from the high ceiling made by Delhi-born and now Sydney-based artist Kirtika Kain. Very evocative.

A series of etched copper plates suspended from the high ceiling of Aspinwall House made by Delhi-born and now Sydney-based artist Kirtika Kain.
Another evocative installation made by Panjeri Artists Union, an anti-caste collective organized in 2021 in West Bengal near the India and Bangladesh border.
Handwoven fabrics made by manual labor replaced by mechanical weaving machines. The message is deep, provocative and a tad heartbreaking.

The works on exhibit evoked many socio-political undertones. The social-cultural backgrounds of the participating artists may have a lot to do with that but in my book, there is so much to learn about Indian history. Prompts me to read and learn more about this fascinating nation of over one billion. So much to research and my curiosity crosses beyond the era of maharajahs and more into more recent Indian history. The art pieces have deep, profound messages that may be easily missed because of the beauty and colors of the artworks. Yay, I wish we had at least another whole day to spend in Cochin. The Biennale was a pleasant surprise and I’m only too glad we timed our trip well. But there’s so much more to explore in this busy port city, not to mention the exotic cafes, seafood stalls and great shopping!

Brightly illuminated installations of carnivorous flowers by Dhiraj Rabha, a visual artist from Assam, India. Title: The Quiet Weight of Shadows . Dhiraj reflects on his childhood in Goalpara Camp.
This was taken in David Hall near Fort Kochi Beach. Another Dutch colonial house we visited on our first day in Cochin. Another biennale venue — there were 29 — all across Fort Kochi. Now operates as an art gallery and cafe.

I have been to India back in 2014. Happy to have spent my birthday there. As a first-time visitor then, we spent nearly 2 weeks touring around New Delhi, Agra, as well as the pink, blue and white cities of Jaipur, Johdpur and Udaipur. The Golden Triangle, plus more. As expected, highlight of the trip was Taj Mahal.

I’d gladly head back to Udaipur in the heart of Rajasthan and skip Delhi which I found so (air) polluted it threatens an asthma attack. Thought too that there are other spots in India I’d love to explore, like the southern part. So when my travel group suggested Kerala in the south of India, it was a no brainer to join. Tea estates, Kochi history and cruising the backwaters on a houseboat tick off many boxes for me. The only concern we have is the Nipah virus which allegedly hit West Bengal lately, over 2,300 kilometres away. Checked the map and the distance is like Manila to Singapore. Ergo, we decided it’s “safe” and far enough. So here we are.

A grandma working in the Dhoby Ghat where all washing are done by hand, and ironing done using antique charcoal iron.

Securing travel e-visas was an ordeal as the visa system kept crashing. Most of us got stuck on page 2 of the online application but as soon as you pass that, it’s a breeze and processing only took 24-48 hours. Well, for most of us. My apo got hers after more than a week. And only after she got an email (a week from filing) requesting for submission within 24 hours (absolutely not a joke!) of additional information and proof which covered all of 18 pages. A real scramble. But we pulled through and the evisa was promptly issued within 24 hours from the 2nd filing. Phew!

St. Francis Church

We got a big group this time. These seasoned travelers must share this same sentiment for enchanting tea plantations and Kerala backwaters. Balm for the soul. Soothing to our frayed nerves. Plus I’m assuming most of us are big fans of Indian cuisine. I am. So is my apo (grandchild). And then there’s Fort Kochi. I’m curious how the 3 cultures — Dutch, British and Portuguese — blended in this historic coastal neighborhood’s architecture, heritage and culture. Prior to this trip, all I know about Kerala has to do with Vasco de Gama. This Portuguese explorer reached Kerala in 1498, thus establishing a sea-based trade route between Europe and Asia. It was an epic 2 year voyage from Lisbon, around the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa, towards India’s south western city of Calicut in Kerala. This new maritime route ended the monopoly of Arab and Venetian spice traders. Think pepper and cinnamon. The new route boosted Portuguese economy and commerce. The Portuguese sailor went back a couple more times but on his 3rd trip, he caught malaria, died and was buried in India’s first Catholic Church — Saint Francis Church in Fort Kochi — before his remains were returned to Portugal where he now rests in the much visited- Jeronimos Monastery in Lisbon. Today, the spot where he was first buried (for 14 years, I hear) bears his tombstone.

The Chinese Fishing Nets in Fort Kochi

On our first whole day, our Kerala introduction involved a visit to the public laundry called Dhoby Ghat in Fort Kochi. This centuries-old traditional/manual and community washing center involved “dhobies” who are mostly old ladies doing handwashing and ironing using antique charcoal iron which are very heavy and hot. Frankly, it’s a tad heartbreaking to watch grandmas working way past retirement age. Thankfully, we didn’t stay too long and walked instead towards St. Francis Church. More tourists here. And even more vendors as we headed towards the Chinese fishing nets off the Arabian Sea. These teak and bamboo contraptions are a major tourist attraction here. To be honest though, we were distracted by the many beachfront vendors selling bags, purses, pens, jewelry, clothing and so much more. Before long, our tote bags just grew heavier while our wallets went lighter.

Jewish Synagogue.

Fort Kochi is an interesting neighborhood. The Jewish town included a museum, a synagogue and an assortment of market stalls selling anything from spices to clothing to jewelry to perfumes, essential oils , woodcarvings and marble statues. We had our fill of shopping around the area and would have loved to check out the Jewish Synagogue but it being a sabbath, it was closed off to tourists like us. And so, we did the next best thing. Shop some more.

Jewish Town

Tomorrow we drive towards Munnar and then Thekkady before we meet up with our houseboat in Allepey. It’s only our first whole day here and we’re giddy with excitement for some nature-tripping in the coming days. Not your typical barkada trip, I guess, but let’s just say we love going off the beaten path. Kerala may not be up there within the tourist radar but we’re here to explore and ready for some pleasant surprises. 😄