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#6 MADRID BLOG SERIES: Paseos, Museos and Searching for Luna

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Filed under: Europe, Spain, Travel, travels — 7 Comments

March 1, 2012

Today I’m ready for another Photowalk. Best in the mornings, then brunch, then siesta? It’s amazing how days somehow fall into some kind of routine.

Free hours at the Museum are late afternoons or early evenings anyway. (Cheapskate!) But I can’t wait. When I saw that the Museo de Prado has some Hermitage artworks on exhibit, I immediately bought a ticket so I can have more time to leisurely view the collections. Spent all of 2 hours viewing the Prado collections and another 2 hours for a quick lunch in the Museum Cafeteria and the Hermitage exhibits.

No photographs allowed inside. But I’m happy. Truly, the Prado is Madrid’s pride. The immense hoard of Spanish treasures, along with those of Flemish, Dutch, Italian masters feed the soul. My favorites are Goya’s “The Naked Maja” , Rubens “Adoration of the Magi” and “Three Graces”, El Bosco’s “The Garden of Delights” and Van der Weyden’s “Descent from the Cross”. I also liked Velasquez’ Meninas and Crucified Christ. The Hermitage Collection is an added bonus. I have been to the Hermitage in St. Petersburg back in 2004 and promptly concluded that Catherine the Great is the greatest shopper, collector and hoarder of them all. I’m no art connoisseur but I enjoyed my time at the Museum.

How I wish Juan Luna’s painting of “The Battle of Lepanto” is also hanging here rather than in Madrid’s Senado. I have yet to figure out how to view this masterpiece, but I’m determined not to leave Madrid without seeing it. (I actually did. Check out my blog on it) It also gives one immense pride to see Juan Luna’s “Death of Cleopatra” hanging side by side with Spanish Masters. Unfortunately, the 2nd time I visited the Prado to view this Luna painting once more, it was no longer there. When I checked with the Information Desk, I was informed it was put on storage. 😦

As i walked out of Prado, I turned green with envy of the guests staying in the adjacent Ritz Hotel. Such a lovely edificio! And in the best location too! One day. One day soon. I shook off the envy and instead dropped in on nearby San Jeronimo Church before rounding up the corner to view the Plaza de la Cibeles. One thing I love about Madrid is the many rotundas, gloriettas, museos, plazas, monuments, fountains and gardens they have. This city, both cosmopolitan and “old world” at the same time, makes each day a photowalk day.

I was tempted to walk back to Puerta del Sol from the corner where Banco Espana stood and where I can get a glimpse of Cybele, the Greek fertility goddess, looking smug seated on a chariot pulled by 2 lions. Naaah. Not today. No rush. Today is strictly Museum Day. Prado Day. Thyssen and the rest can wait another day.

Can’t resist including this excerpt from Rizal’s impromptu speech at a dinner in honor of Luna and Hidalgo at the Hotel Ingles:

“Luna and Hidalgo are as much Spanish glories as they are Filipino. Just as they were born in the Philippines, they could have been born in Spain, because genius has no country, genius blossoms everywhere, genius is like the light, the air, it is the heritage of all”

Tags: Cleopatra, Death Of Cleopatra, Juan Luna, Luna, Madrid, Museo de Prado, Prado Museum, Spain

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#5 MADRID BLOG SERIES: Los Indios Meet Rizal In Madrid

Filed under: Europe, Spain, Travel, travels — 6 Comments

Another photowalk till my legs ached. Calling it quits for the day, I took the same path towards our hotel for the week. 🚶Along the way, I stopped by the Islas de Filipinas and Madrid’s equivalent of our Rizal Park. ⛲There are similar parks for the other countries which centuries before were colonies of Spain.🇪🇸

Inside the park, there is a joggers’ path 👣👟🏃and a bike lane.🚲 Several benches were scattered inside the park where the center has been developed into a golf range.⛳ In one corner, there was even a cervezaria. 🍺The classier version of our beer garden. 🍻

At the corner is the monument to our national hero, flanked by two tablets of Dr. Jose Rizal’s Mi Ultimo Adios and its Filipino translation.📝 Imagine that! Dear Spain had this man, our national hero, wiped off the face of the earth yet built this monument in his memory.

Tags: Europe, Madrid, Rizal, Spain

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#4 MADRID BLOG SERIES: Los Indios En Madrid

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Filed under: Europe, Spain, Travel, travels — Leave a comment

February 29, 2012

I may not speak Spanish but somehow feel unintimidated by this somewhat familiar language. I couldn’t resist eavesdropping whenever and wherever I am, catching a few understandable words but get stumped not being able to figure out the whole deal.

I downloaded this Spanish Talk Pad and thought it was a most clever thing to do. Ha! Ha! And another Ha! The easy part is when you are able to express yourself, with or without the Talk Pad, either with a question or a statement. The hard part is getting a response and not understanding it. Duh 😦

Like getting directions. Easy enough to begin with “Donde……” and getting confused with the isquierda (left) and derecha (right!) directions. These are words which found their way into our local language….. but somehow the meanings got crossed or lost.

So, imagine us Indios hunting for an apartment in Madrid. With all the Internet research on available flats within our budget, picking up that phone to dial the number and inquire is an ordeal. ☎ You see, hand gestures don’t work over the telephone. Yay, what to do?

We prayed for an angel. We found one. Through a friend, we met this Pinay working as a waitress in an Italian Resto who speaks Spanish fluently. What’s more, she just happens to be on a one-week leave. For 3 days, she made telephone calls, scheduled the visits, and accompanied us inspecting the apartments. She even negotiated in our behalf. We “followed” her negotiations through the familiar uno-dos-tres numbers we Pinoys have grown used to. Thank God!

This morning, we finally found the flat we wanted. Not exactly in the price range we wanted for its size, but we drew comfort in the friendliness of the porter and admin staff and the location. Move-in set this March 5. We’re “squatters” in Doyee’s flat 2 floors down while Mayette’s own flat is not yet ready for occupancy. Time to do our laundry too. Having concluded the deal, I passed one bar and decided to have my regular brew. No hot chocolate this time. Nor cafe con leche. Too much milk there. Had cafe cortado instead —- more coffee than milk. ☕ My usual. And a cinnamon roll. Then, back to my hotel for some siesta. The next few days would be devoted to some serious IKEA shopping.

Hasta luego! I’d get busy with the laundry.

Tags: Europe, Madrid, Spain

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#3 MADRID BLOG SERIES: Photowalk around Sol, Plaza Mayor y Retiro Park

Filed under: Europe, Spain, Travel, travels — 5 Comments

February 25, 2012

Day 2 in Madrid. No jet lag. Perfect weather. A tad cloudy but not so cold. Hotel wifi sucks. Books to read. Need a perfect spot somewhere quiet. But not before a good stroll cum exercise around Plaza Mayor.

Kilometro O….. No Tio Pepe signage in sight. Instead, I found mimes and Disney characters within the Puerta del Sol.

Walking along Calle Mayor, I smiled when I spotted Museo de Jamon as I remembered a lunch here with my nephew and dear friends some 10 years ago. Also, searching and finding Chocolateria de San Gines brings cheer. Churros con chocolate never fails!

Another discovery off Calle Mayor is Mercado de San Miguel. (Soon my fav place here in Madrid) This place was teeming with Señors y Señoras having their late lunch here. Food porn to the max. Had lunch on my feet as I moved from stall to stall! Ohhh, those croquettes were sooooo delicious!

Finding my way back to Plaza Mayor, I took photos and videos of lovely Spanish children with their kindergarten teachers. How delightful to just watch them laughing and pushing each other!

From Sol, I took the Metro to pass the remainder of the afternoon and early evening in Retiro Park. Found a bench where I read my book with music provided by these street artists.

What a 2nd day well-spent! Back in the hotel, I reviewed the photos and was pleasantly surprised (and envious?) to find a lovely gay couple in this photo. Not intentional. But there. Don’t you love it?

Tags: Madrid, Puerta del Sol, Retiro Park, Spain

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#2MADRID BLOG SERIES: Chocolate Con Churros

Filed under: Europe, Spain, Travel, travels — 9 Comments

The last time I was here was back in 2002. To this day, I still remember the chocolate con churros we had at the famous Chocolateria de San Gines. Having resolved that this is where my first Desayuno in Spain will be, my Day 2 in Madrid got me up and out of the hotel by 8:30am.

But first things first. I dropped in on a nearby Iglesia. 💒Guess what, I ended up staying for the 9am mass. Lovely way to start the day. Seated on the last pew, I was startled as a young boy sidled up to me and made guttural sounds. Turns out he was there by himself, and that he didn’t mean any harm. Just being playful. Like any other boy. 👼 Just the same, I moved up to the front pew after communion. Found this old man and another young boy — maybe aged 5 or 6 — seated in front of me. Found it so touching to see this caring boy prompting his grandpa to stand, sit or kneel during the mass. These scenes touched me so.🙏

So, on a happy note and on this cloudy day, ☁I began my journey to the center of Madrid. The blue line took me from Rios Rosas Station to SOL.🚃🚉 Kilometro 0 to be exact. I tried searching for the Tio Pepe signage but found none. Must be on that building now under renovation. I steeled myself from going to the El Corte Ingles 👢👗👜department store and instead walked along Calle Mayor in search of Plaza Mayor.

Back on Calle Mayor, I passed Museo De Jamon🍴 (my beloved pig!) and turned too many corners in search of Iglesia de San Gines. I was lost! Rested on a bench somewhere where I took this lovely shot of a white cross in a small plaza just off a corner store with a “fancy name”.

Though lost, I’ve got to say I had no worries. Everything looked familiar. Perhaps because we got lost too back in 2002. My, this chocolate con churros makes a determined glutton out of me.☕ Soon, I found the chocolateria just off the Iglesia de San Gines. Having existed since 1894, I wonder if any of our national heroes have tried breakfast here too.

For €3.70, you get a cuppa of hot, sticky chocolate and 6 pieces of churros to die for! I felt guilty leaving a couple of pieces and wished I had company. Four pieces of churros in one sitting is a lot for me. So I decided to “get lost” some more to deal with all the extra glucose and starch. Aaaaaaah, HAPPINESS. 😄😍😱

Tags: Chocolate, Churros, Madrid, San Gines, Spain

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#1 MADRID BLOG SERIES: From Lechon to Cuchinillo Country

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Filed under: Europe, Spain, Travel, travels — 5 Comments

Just before this journey into cuchinillo country, we took time to visit Cebu. Land of Lechon and Chicharon. I still have my backblogs on our visits to Boljoon, Dalaguete, Carcar and Simala, but these would have to give way to my first journal on our flight out of Manila into this land of cuchinillo, tapas, flamenco y abanicos. ✈

Still reeling from my hypertensive moments post-Cebu, I promised myself I’d stay away from my beloved pig. On February 22 we took our 11:40pm Emirates flight into Madrid via Dubai. All of 15 hours combined or so, plus 3 hours waiting in Dubai for the connecting flight. The 2 flights each served 2 meals which I happily munched through 4 in-flight movies. Didn’t even get the chance to read my book. Had a few winks, only to wake up and agonize over whether to have the Arabic Mezze or the Deli platter. And that’s only for breakfast!

Dubai airport is truly grandiose but lacks the character I found in Singapore’s Changi or Hongkong Airport. Perhaps I missed a few interesting corners, so I vowed to give it a second review on my homeward journey. As for Madrid’s Barajas Airport, it looks like any other as we breezed through immigration and got out in this bitter cold weather at 12:30pm! Immediately, I felt justified squeezing in my fleece vest into my 10 kilo trolley bag.

By the time we reached our NH Breton Hotel in the Chamartin area, I was lusting for a quick shower and jumping into my bed. The hotel is centrally located. Just off the corner is a bus stop and the Metro. Right in front of the hotel is a fruit store and beside it, a 24 hour convenience store. I promptly bought 4 big bottles of mineral water, a dozen oranges, bread, cold cuts, yogurt and vegetable salad. And some lip balm and skin cream too. My chapped lips and dry skin need some TLC after only a few hours out in the cold.

Having freshened up, I did a quick round up for a late afternoon walk and check-see of the metro station and nearby dining places. I was pleased to find that Rios Rosas Metro Station is just a short walk from the hotel. I took mental note of the Blue and Red Lines which will take me to the Sol and Retiro Stations. Also of the food outlets serving Desayuno (breakfast of churros con chocolate or cafe con leche) for only €2. This is way better than the €12 breakfasts available in the hotel! On lazy mornings, I can even make my own sandwich with the bread, cold cuts and vegetable salad I bought.

Self-Served Breakfasts!

All things looking up. Except one very important thing. Internet. Enjoyed the free 30minute wifi, only to be prompted to buy at €8.85 per day for unli-surfing. I made full use of the free wifi in the hotel. Refusing to pay the €8.85 daily Internet rate (who are they kidding?), I find it uncool to pay €80 for a room with no free wifi.

I am NOT cranky yet. I have my books. But these Internet withdrawal symptoms are getting in the way. Woke up early at 5am. Looked out the window from our hotel room. By 7:30am, it was still dark. Sunlight came at 8am. I downed 4 naranjas in one sitting just to shake off the blues. Got to find a coffee shop with free wifi. Tried 2, but no luck. The waitress said they don’t share the password with paying diners. And this is Madrid in the heart of Europe! Ooooops. There goes the temper. Gawd, I need another shower.

View From Our Hotel Window

Tags: Europe, Madrid, Spain

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No Tuki Today

Filed under: Food Trip, Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 2 Comments

February 18, 2012

Our group planned this 3 day, 2 night adventure in Cebu highlighted by a visit to Oslob. This small, heretofore vaguely known town in Southern Cebu hugged the limelight when it was reported that whale sharks — Butanding in Donsol, “tuki” in Cebu — were discovered. The “feeding” of these friendly gentle giants invited so much attention and excitement that we promptly packed our bags and flew to Cebu. This, even after the disastrous earthquake that rocked Negros and Cebu a few days before our flight.

We arranged for a van to pick us up at the new Harold’s Hotel in Cebu City at the ungodly hour of 4am. Having feasted on lechon the day before — the day of our arrival — I hardly slept because of a disturbing headache (which I later learned was actually triggered by a spike in my blood pressure) which deprived me of the needed winks.

We tried to catch some sleep in the van as we cruised towards Oslob on that 3 hour drive. Armed with my own life vest, life buoy and snorkeling equipment (all hand carried from Manila), we were ~~ready~~ eager when we arrived 7am in this remote village. The makeshift registration kiosk wasn’t that busy as it was a Thursday and it was just our group, a family, 2 Caucasian couples and a lone Frenchman arranging for a date with the gentle, krill-fed whale sharks.

But it was not to be. We waited another 3 hours, content with stories from this local who regaled us with her own adventures feeding the whale sharks. By 10am, we prepared to leave as the “spotters” who rounded up the area several times came back empty-handed. Disappointed. Frustrated. Deprived of an adventure dreamed of weeks before. Thank God I was in the company of good (and cheerful) friends with whom a day is never dull nor devoid of “adventure”.

Now, WHAT TO DO? The 3 hour return trip was marked by stopovers in Boljoon, Dalaguete, Carcar and Simala. Separate blogs to follow, as each has a story to tell. Tuki or no tuki, we certainly didn’t waste our day! When you guys go, better pray you meet them. Pray for good weather. It rained nearly the whole night and early morning of our visit. The whale sharks may have been sooo disturbed by the strong current and choppy waters.

Tags: Boljoon, butanding, Carcar, Cebu, Dalaguete, Oslob, Simala, Tuki, Whale Sharks

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So, Whatever Happened to Lapu Lapu?

Filed under: Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 10 Comments

February 16, 2012

So, we recall our history lessons and confidently state when the Philippines was discovered by Magellan. We remember too that Magellan was killed by Lapu Lapu in Mactan. Then WHAT?

Magellan's Cross

Our history lessons quizzed us on the dates, on who Magellan was, but failed miserably on educating us on the very first Philippine hero who resisted foreign aggression. Epic fail!

Magellan's Cross

Was Lapu Lapu such a nondescript character unworthy of a longer narration in many history books?

I bet many in my generation hardly knows this hunk from Mactan! Like me. But I intend to change that.

True, the Spaniards brought Christianity to our land. While I take my faith seriously, I have this gnawing feeling……..no, I am absolutely confident that the Spaniards who ruled our land for nearly 4 centuries had motivations more compelling than spreading the faith.

But I’m not about to dwell on these motivations. What interests me is to know exactly what happened to our first Philippine hero.

Sourced from the Net: Lapu Lapu Monument in Mactan

The little I know is that Magellan befriended some local tribal chiefs the likes of Rajah Humabon. Lapu Lapu strayed from the pack and refused to succumb to this foreign aggression, as well as to Rajah Humabon’s order to accept the foreign colonizers. Lapu Lapu organized his warriors as Magellan and his troops sailed to the island of Mactan. Allegedly, Rajah Humabon connived with Magellan to attack and subdue this “rebellious tribe in Mactan”. Fortunately for Lapu Lapu and his tribal warriors, the Spanish fleet, helped along by local “friendly” tribes, could not sail nearer to the island and had to wade ashore where they were met and attacked by Lapu Lapu and his men. The fleet’s cannons and firepower could not support the Spanish troops as the boats were at some distance from shore. Besides, Pigafetta, the chronicler, claimed the Spaniards were outnumbered by the Mactan “army” of Lapu Lapu. Pigafetta escaped with some others, as Magellan lay helpless and died. His body was never found.

Sourced from the Net: Lapu Lapu Killed Magellan!

And then what? Now this is where the legends abound. One legend claims Lapu Lapu left the island to live up in the mountains, far from sight. Was he hiding from his fellow Cebuanos who have so readily welcomed and accepted Spanish “visitors”? Of interest here is the report that Rajah Humabon, after Magellan’s defeat and fatal encounter with the local tribes, betrayed the remaining Spanish troops by trying to poison them in a feast he tendered for his European visitors. Oh well. That’s another story. But what of Lapu Lapu? Never seen by anyone ever again. Another legend is more dramatic and attributes superpowers to this Mactan chieftain. This legend claims Lapu Lapu turned into a stone (or a rock) facing the sea to forever protect the island of Mactan. How’s that for a legend?

How frustrating can this get. Any ideas, anyone? Admittedly, this story is so “bitin”. 😉

Lapu Lapu Statue Standing Guard Around The Valencia or Agrifina Circle

And how have we honored Lapu Lapu, our first national hero? Lapu Lapu appears on the official seal of the Philippine National Police. There’s the shrine in Mactan. A Monument in Rizal Park. And don’t forget the fish. Gawd, we didn’t even bother to declare a national holiday in his honor?

To be updated, as history unravels.

Tags: Cebu, Lapu Lapu, Magellan, Philippines

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Around The World at Terminal 21 (Bangkok)

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Filed under: Asian Holidays, Travel, travels — 3 Comments

February 2, 2012

Bangkok. Think Grand Palace. Wat Po. Vimanmek Palace. Chao Phraya River. Floating Market. MBK. Jim Thomson. Oriental Hotel. Wat Arun. Pat Pong. Khao San. Chatuchak.

Wat Po. Just one temple this time. We skipped the rest!

After as many as 7 trips or so here, I have yet to venture out of the capital. Well, I have visited Ayutthaya if that counts. But that was just a day trip from the city. I’m thinking Chiang Mai. Or even Phuket. Ko Phi Phi. Hua Hin. Kanchanaburi. Chiang Rai. Not this time. Another time, is what I keep repeating to myself.

Golden Gate Bridge Crossing Terminal 21's Atrium : Impressive!

Inside Terminal 21

So what else is new in Bangkok? Stuck in the city, we checked out the newest shopping mall in the capital. (Thanks to Bing who brought us here) Terminal 21. No, it is not within the airport complex. But it does look like one. Located at Sukhumvit 21 (hence, Terminal 21) this shopping mall is connected with the BTS Asoke and MRT Sukhumvit Stations.

Carribean-themed floor is all about the beach and lighthouse!

Working on the theme of travel, Terminal 21 allows you to “travel” from San Francisco, USA to Istanbul, which is just an escalator away. As we entered the complex, we were greeted by this red and white lighthouse right smack in the middle of the atrium. This ground floor is where the supermarket is, replete with its Carribean beach decor. The signature shops are largely on the Paris and Rome-themed floors. Higher up, one finds the London-themed floor. You can’t mistake it, what with the lifesize red bus parked at some corner there. The Tokyo section is also quite popular. Many ladies had fun posing beside the sumo wrestler statues you find on that floor. 😉

A London Bus Parked in Terminal 21?

And then there’s Istanbul. And the fancy restrooms! No visit is complete without stopping by the modern restrooms. Think bidet, heated seat cover, air blower, etc. Cool! What’s more, there’s wifi all around the complex. So bring your laptop and check out the many food outlets here. Grab some lunch. Just take time to decide what to have. With all these different themes, it can be a chore choosing what to have for lunch. Happy time, happy thoughts to all!

Be warned. Old hags can have fun too!

An Array of Dining Choices Inside Terminal 21

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Tags: Bangkok, Shopping, Terminal 21, Thailand

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The 108 Stupas @Dochula Pass in Bhutan

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Filed under: Asian Holidays, Travel, travels — 2 Comments

January 26, 2012

Just an hour away from Thimpu. We passed this site and drove another 1 .5 hours to reach Punakha just a couple of days before. No chance to get off the car to count the stupas. But you can bet your bottom ngultrum (Bhutanese currency) that they do number 108. No more, No less.

There you go. All 108 Chortens.

Dochula Pass sits right along the road on the way to Punakha from Thimpu. It was built to honor the casualties of a recent war resulting from a conflict with rebels from the South who wanted to secede. The King himself personally led an army of about 7,000 volunteers to drive out tens of thousands of rebels. Not one to glorify war nor their victory, the King had this monument built instead to honor both the dead soldiers and dead rebels from the conflict.

I can sit here all day. But do throw me a blanket!

At 3,150 meters above sea level, you can ID a number of mountains from the Himalayan Range on a clear day. But I’m telling you……… even on a cloudy day, it is still a worthwhile trip to make it high up here. Just a short walk from the Pass, have a cup of steaming coffee or tea at the Dochula Cafeteria. In our case, we had lunch. I am not exactly a big fan of Bhutanese cuisine, but one thing’s for sure. They grow their vegetables and grains organically. The mountain rice tastes better. The dumplings filled with cabbage and cheese dipped in some spicy sauce called MOMOS are so simply made, and tastes “healthy”. I passed on the fish, knowing that Bhutan is landlocked and assuming that the fish must have been transported all the way from India. The vegetables were cooked just as simply. Nothing fancy, really. But no worries. Altitude has a way of making you feel funny. It also affects one’s appetite, so I hardly complained.

Just a short walk to watch a cultural performance.

Just a few hundred meters from the Pass, we walked along a dirt path lined with prayer flags to watch a cultural performance. Since the dance routines have not been watched by the King yet, no photographs were allowed. Such is the rule in this land. Seated in an open-air site in 6 Celsius temp, we watched in amazement how some half-naked dancers can stand the cold. Mind you, the performance lasted well over an hour! I am borrowing some photographs here to give you an idea of Bhutanese dance routines.