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The day my Canon G12 “died”, I was in high spirits literally “shooting the breeze” in Chamantad Viewpoint in Tinian Cliffs in Sabtang, Batanes. Standing by the promontory facing the Pacific Ocean, I let that breeze slap me in the face. I took in all the ocean spray as well. Refreshing. I took it all. And so did my Canon G12 which jammed soon after I took a video and more snapshots of the cliffs and the rocky coast. It “died”. I began to mourn its “demise” only when I reached chaotic Manila. Took me some days to bring the camera to the Canon Center for repairs. Sob 😦

 

 

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My Canon G12…. a faithful companion in my travels.

 

 

The entire lens had to be replaced, costing 8,500 pesos. Luckily, the 3 year warranty is still good for a couple more months. When I picked up my cam, it was as good as new and didn’t cost me a cent. Just in time too for my recent unplanned, unscheduled trip to Phuket. Sunsets in Phuket every single day we were there never passed without my memory catcher getting into action. Though it is only a Point & Shoot cam, I fell in love with my Canon G12 again. What a lovely travel companion!

 

 

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SPOTTED With My Canon G12: Bromance in Phuket Beach.

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SPOTTED: Bromance in Phuket Beach. Thailand. May 2013

 

 

It is the same sun. But as a friend would say, sunsets melt your heart in different ways. In my case, I was only too happy my resurrected Canon G12 can capture these moments. For sure, there are better sunset shots. But I like mine, simply because they’re MINE. I alone captured the exact spot, the exact angle, at the exact moment, with the exact sentiment I felt on the exact second I pressed to take the exact shot! I owned that feeling. Does that make sense?

 

 

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Sunsets are lovely. But I honestly love twilights more. TWILIGHT IN PHUKET BEACH. JW Marriott Resort and Spa

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Just a manageable “crowd” in JW Marriott Resort and Spa. Phuket, Thailand.

 

 

In Phuket, we had the luxury of viewing the sunset without the crowd. That helps build up the mood, I guess. Calm, serene, quiet, almost sacred. As we headed back to our rooms, we caught a few more snapshots. It seemed the sunset shots were never enough. Truly, who can compete with Nature? The explosion of colors just as and as soon as the sun set was the highlight of our evenings here in Phuket. Thank God my good ol’ buddy is back in action. 🙂

 

 

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A few more shots. Can’t seem to get enough of sunset and twilight shots here in Phuket, Thailand.

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Just before going off to dinner. Can’t make that Pad Thai wait too long…..

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View from the lobby of JW Marriott Phuket Resort and Spa


Gentlemen:

 

I have confirmed bookings with Agoda under ID 28773745 as detailed below:

 

Hotel: Hotel MANU
Room Type: 2 Standard Twin Rooms for 4 adults
City/Country: Seoul/South Korea
Arrival: May 26, 2013
Departure: May 28, 2013
Payment Mode: Via PayPal

 

On May 9, 2013 I got a call from Hotel Manu that the hotel is overbooked and cannot accommodate me. I do not know how the hotel obtained my contact details but I contacted Agoda instead which offered Nine Tree Myeong-dong Hotel as alternative hotel. I accepted and looked forward to new hotel vouchers issued in my favor. It never happened. Despite a day-long email exchange and communication with at least 8 Customer Support Specialists from May 9-10, 2013, my frustrations piled up because Agoda insisted that I should make NEW bookings myself with Nine Tree Hotel and then just wait for my refund “for the room rate differentials”, without much explanation how I can be refunded for the 1st booking which Hotel Manu won’t honor.

 

As a paying customer in good faith, I wonder how and why it took over a month and nearer to my departure date to be informed that the Agoda-issued hotel vouchers cannot be honored. Worse, I have to arrange for the alternative bookings myself and suffer a 2nd charge on my credit card on the “vague” promise that I will be refunded. Nothing is clear. Nothing was resolved.

 

My patience is growing thin. But it isn’t easy to throw away US$418.52. Neither is it easy communicating with different customer support specialists who would take turns raising your hope, dashing your expectations and then leaving you spent and frustrated.

 

Day is almost over. I am still averse offering my credit card details. I mean, that explains why i use PayPal, right? More so now after this experience. I wonder how this episode ends. Hard lessons with an international brand like Agoda. People would still use them,for sure. Me? Need you ask?

 

20130510-202817.jpg I won’t ever trust you ever again, Agoda!

Thinking James Bond 007 this morning as we boarded our speedboat to the islands off Phuket. Phi Phi today. The Beach. Monkey Beach. Vikings Cave. But no time to do James Bond Island. Funny how some of these islands’ claim to fame is by way of the movies shot in their lovely shores. I’ve seen the movies. Enough to get me all excited. And thinking James Bond….. No ferries for old ladies. Let’s have the speedboat, no less!

 

 

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Royal Phuket Marina where the speedboats are parked.

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There’s our speedboat (bottom left) with 675 hp engines. We flew!

 

 

Oh, the kids would have loved this. Maybe next time. How I wish we have speedboats hopping from island to island in El Nido or Coron. Quite an adventure. Outside of that, I can’t say I’m really overwhelmed. The beauty of our own islands compare very well with the likes of Phi Phi. And it is just as hot and humid too. If it were cooler, I’d choose these tropical islands anytime of day, or year, over the Greek islands off the Aegean Sea. Just make it a tad cooler. Enough to make it bearable, but warm enough to still swim in its warm waters. Or maybe I complain too much. I must be SPOILED 😉

 

 

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The monkeys in Monkey Island must have been waiting for boats to stop and throw ’em those bananas! Quite a show.

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We had lunch here in Phi Phi Don. Calmer waters. Colorful boats. Relaxing.

 

 

We booked the tours via Asia Web. For 3,100 baht, you have the speedboat to island hop the whole day and a half-day tour of Phuket Island another day. The speedboat cruise includes lunch, unlimited drinks and fruits on the speedboat. You may choose to ride the ferry to see the same islands for far less (900 baht) but I’m telling you, the speedboat ride is an adventure by itself! Powered with 3 engines @225 hp for a combined power of 675 hp, we flew! In some of the islands, we were allowed to swim, snorkel, feed the fish ( I love this part best! ). In one spot, the current was so strong it was a struggle to swim back to the boat!

 

 

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Snorkelers galore!

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Hungry fish!

 

 

We saw the boat crew catch fish with their bare hands! It looked so easy as they grabbed the fish by the heads and threw them in a basket. We were kinda hoping that was lunch, but the tour operator had other ideas. Thai lunch was not bad, but it wasn’t spectacular. I wouldn’t trade our grilled seafood lunch in one of the El Nido islands. Neither was I overwhelmed with the sights. I prefer the beach, coves and seascapes of Palawan. But I’ve got to say the speedboats and the colorful traditional boats give the place tons of charm.

 

 

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Off the boat for some siesta time in Rang Yai Island, nearer to Phuket.

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Vikings Cave. Nothing spectacular but those birds’ nests fetch a hefty price!

 

 

And it sure helped a great deal that Hollywood movies were filmed here. The Beach starring Leonardo di Carpio was quite a hit — which explains the thick crowd when we visited Maya Cove. Personally, I prefer the more quiet beach of Rang Yai Island. The sands pale in comparison with Boracay and El Nido, but it attracted a more sober crowd.

 

 

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The Beach. Thick crowd. Rowdy youngsters who got busy “throwing” their lady friends into the water. Boys will be boys!

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This is more like it. Quiet. More serene. Huts around. Showers off one side with a pair of peacocks watching! This is Rang Yai Island, just a few minutes to Royal Phuket Marina.

 

 

But you’ve got to hand it to them Thais. They sure know their tourism industry. The tour was conducted systematically, the guides were very well-trained, you never grow hungry throughout the cruise, and there’s the element of “surprise” and personalized service the way the tour was handled. In particular, we were all pleasantly surprised to find exotic fruits on the boat — sliced pineapples, rose apples (macopa), local oranges, bananas — and to be offered local Popsicles at the last leg while viewing photos taken by the tour photographer. Nice touch. Everything was well thought-out!

 

 

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Macopas is what we call them. Rose Apples to others.

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BOND. JAMES BOND. Very chichi.

 

 

The marina looked very classy that one easily justifies the hefty price paid for this tour. Very charming. Very cleverly done. Indeed, it was so chichi in Koh Phi Phi! 😉


Monday delights. Left Manila at noon via Thai Airways, made a brief stop in Bangkok, then flew onwards to Phuket. It’s the biggest island in Thailand and we found our retreat here in Mai Khao. The beach resort is blessedly isolated and away from the tourist crowd. Very much self-contained with an option to do some retail therapy in the nearby TurtleVillage. But who wants to get out? A 2-room villa with its own plunge pool tempts you to stay in. In fact, we opted to dine in and used the well-appointed kitchen to cook our pasta pomodoro dinner to go with a bottle of good shiraz. L.U.X.U.R.Y. Pure luxury. This is the life! Happiness 🙂

 

 

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JW Marriott Phuket

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It is tempting to just stay IN in JW Marriott Phuket Resort and Spa

 

 

In the end, we decided to skip the shiraz. It can wait till tomorrow. We turned in early to prep for a whole day of activities tomorrow. The stroll around the lovely resort hotel can wait too….. and so with a dip in the plunge pool. It could have been perfect. Four friends around the pool, each holding a glass of wine, chatting like there’s no tomorrow, while keeping their heads dry and the rest soaking in the pool. Holy cow! We must be getting old. All we wanted to do after dinner is to climb into our heavenly beds.

 

 

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One of 2 villa bedrooms in Marriott Vacation Club in Mai Khao, Phuket.

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That’s the plunge pool right outside the room in Marriott Vacation Club

 

 

This is NOT an advert. But MARRIOTT VACATION CLUB in Mai Khao, Phuket is a lovely place to stay in. The 2 bedroom villa with a well-appointed kitchen is a sanctuary for weary bodies and tired souls. The plunge pool is a bonus. Easily, the villa can accommodate 6 pax. Maybe even 8 pax. Best for families or good friends. You can even choose to stay in, buy your supplies from the nearby Turtle Village, cook and dine in. Tonight, that’s exactly what we did. Tomorrow and days after, we’d be in serious search for Pad Thai and some curries. 🙂

 

 

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Who’s cooking dinner tonight?

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Towel elephant on my dining table!

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The Living Room. Marriott Vacation Club. Mai Khao, Phuket.


Nayong Pilipino translates to Filipino Village. This theme park near the Diosdado Macapagal International Airport sits in a 45-acre park within the Expo Pilipino Complex. Sorely in need of funding, I lament that it is not as “representative of the best in the country”nor as widely promoted as our other tourist spots.

 

 

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Nayong Pilipino (Filipino Village) in Clark Expo Zone

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The Barasoian Church where sunday masses are held 10 am .

 

 

I couldn’t remember the last time I visited Nayong Pilipino. And I’m referring to the old site near the Manila International Airport. Having a tourist site with replicas and miniatures of famous Philippine landmarks is a good idea. Locating it near an international airport serves travelers well, especially those with an extended layover. I am assuming THAT idea is intended to promote the country and perhaps encourage foreigners to explore more of the Philippines. As for the locals, I remember the old Nayong Pilipino as a must-experience for grade schoolers to introduce them to the beauty, history and geography of our country.

 

 

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Si Malakas at si Maganda (The Strong and the Beautiful)

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The Colonial Plaza includes the Rizal Shrine, Emilio Aguinaldo Shrine and the Apolinario Mabini Shrine.

 

 

I have a circle of visiting foreign bloggers who breeze through Manila on their way to the beach destinations in the Visayas and Palawan, OR to the rice terraces and colonial/heritage towns up North. Cebu and Bohol are popular destinations to view Magellan’s Cross, Tarsiers, and Chocolate Hills. Gaining popularity of late is Donsol for the whale shark adventures and while there, who’d dare miss our majestic Mayon Volcano?

 

 

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Typical Filipino huts line the perimeter towards the Nayong Pilipino .entrance.

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A representative Kalinga Village (Northern Philippines)

 

 

I am not confident this theme park highlights the best our country offers. I understand there’s a shuttle service from nearby SM Clark but if there was, ALL my foreigner-friends who flew in via Clark missed it. A free shuttle from the airport itself would have served the purpose better. (If there is, it should be promoted so as NOT to be missed!) Surely, extended layovers are better spent here rather than in the malls or duty-free shops.

 

 

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Replica of the Rice Terraces of Banaue in Northern Philippines. With real rice planted!

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On a hot and humid day, the shade from these trees are heaven-sent!

 

 

We went on a hot, humid day. Walking around without a hat or umbrella is guaranteed to give one a migraine. Luckily, we came prepared. But there were not enough markers and signs to tell the story, history and culture of the different regions represented here. I am not sure if there is a schedule of guided tours. I wish there is. And I hope they have good guides.

 

 

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An Ifugao House

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An Ifugao Village

 

 

I understand there is the issue of funding. The time I went, there were hardly any visitors. Now, those P100 admission fees from MORE visitors could augment the needed funding. A better-stocked cafeteria may likewise be a good source of revenues. So how about bringing in more visitors by offering free shuttle services on FIXED SCHEDULES from the Clark airport?

 

 

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Barasoian Church replica.

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How often do we entertain foreign guests and balikbayan (returning Filipinos) family and friends?

 

 

I’ve done quite a few — from long weekend trips in mountain villages up North or to some beach destinations down South to whole day together-ness via roadtrips north or south of Manila. And for the briefest encounters……. There’s THE DRILL. A glimpse into over 300 years under Spanish rule (Fort Santiago y Intramuros) + the heart and core of Chinatown (a.k.a. Binondo Walk cum Foodtrip) + end-of-day relaxation along Manila Bay interspersed with brief food tripping episodes.

 

 

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Rizal Park

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Fort Santiago in Intramuros, Manila

 

 

By itself, the Rizal Park-Intramuros-National Museum can take a whole day already. But who wants to do long walks at 39 Celsius in humid April? I say the Museum can wait and the Park can easily be a “drive-thru”. We were first driven to Fort Santiago (entrance: 75 pesos, 50 pesos for students) passing Rizal Park (Dr. Rizal is the national hero), and then walked from Fort Santiago towards San Agustin Church, the oldest surviving church in this predominantly Catholic country. If there’s time, you can visit the Museum housed in the Convent adjoining the Church or visit Casa Manila (showcasing Filipino-Spanish lifestyle) just off the church corner. Or you can choose to sit on a horse-drawn carriage (the cheaper calesa or the pricey caruaje) sightseeing for the next hour or two. The choices depend on how much time you have. In some instances, I totally skipped Fort Santiago and instead visited Baluarte de San Diego. More trees there. Ergo, more shade!

 

 

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The National Art Gallery which used to be Legislative Building

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Baluarte de San Diego in Intramuros, Manila

 

 

From Intramuros, you can either take a cab or a jeepney or drive past the Museum and City Hall across Jones Bridge overlooking the lovely Postal Office to reach Binondo. Hungry or not, a Binondo Walk is never complete without dropping in on those “hole in the wall” spots. My personal favorites are Po Heng Lumpia House and Dong Bei Dumpling House. Need I tell you what they serve?

 

 

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Chinese Lumpia (Vegetable Roll) from the best : Po Heng Lumpia House in Binondo, Manila.

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Dumplings or Sio-Mai. Freshly Made!

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Kutchay Siomai or Dumplings with Chives Fillings. Only from that hole-in-the-wall, Dong Bei Dumpling House in Binondo, Manila.

 

 

Finally done with Hispanic Philippines (Intramuros) and Chinoy Philippines (Binondo Chinatown)? Maybe it’s time for a cup of Cappuccino in Harbour Square within the reclaimed area housing the Cultural Center of the Philippines, Folk Arts Theatre and Philippine International Convention Center. It’s your modern Philippines complete with junk food outlets lining the Bay. Grab a bite here, if you like. Many choices across a wide price range. This is also a superb place to unwind or chill while waiting for the famous Manila Bay Sunset.

 

 

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Manila Bay, viewed from Harbour Square in the CCP Complex near Cultural Center of the Philippines.

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Roxas Boulevard near Manila Bay. At Twilight.


Juan Luna’s obra maestra, the SPOLIARIUM , greets you as soon as you step into the Hall of Masters in the National Art Gallery. I have visited it quite a few times, appreciating how this painting brought and still bring so much pride to us Filipinos.

Browsing through my favorite Facebook pages, I was struck to find this photo of how the obra maestra looked in 1958. The National Museum offers this information and I do not wish to add nor subtract from it:

 

“Spoliarium (1958): Photo shows the Juan Luna masterpiece “Spoliarium” on display at the lobby of the Department of Foreign Affairs building on Padre Faura St. (now the Department of Justice building) where it was mounted on a wooden frame after it was shipped to the Philippines as a gift by the Franco Government in Spain that year. Unfortunately, because of its size, the painting was sliced into three pieces before it was crated and brought to the country. (The slices in the painting can be seen here) The Spoliarium was later restored by artist Antonio Dumlao before it was unveiled again in 1962. The painting remained at the DFA before it was transferred to the National Museum where it can be seen today.

 

 

The Spoliarium was entry by Luna to the Exposición Nacional de Bellas Artes in 1884 in Madrid, where it garnered the first gold medal (out of three). In 1886, it was sold to the Diputación Provincial de Barcelona for 20,000 pesetas. It measures 4.22 meters x 7.675 meters, and considered as the largest painting in the Philippines. (Thank you, Vic Torres, for the photo and the annotation.)”

 

 

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Sourced from the Net

(Source: National Art Gallery)

 

 

It almost breaks your heart to see even just a photo of a visibly “split up” SPOLIARIUM. Thanks to Antonio Dumlao, we are now privileged to view this obra maestra in all its glory. But pray tell, who is ANTONIO DUMLAO?

 

 

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Spoliarium at the Hall of Masters. National Art Gallery. Manila

 

 

More Internet surfing and more heartbreaks which can only be appeased by my sharing these with you.

 

 

First off, Antonio Dumlao was an accomplished artist. He was commissioned to give a “facelift” to the Juan Luna obra maestra in 1960 despite the fact that he was never trained in restoration work. In fact, he never had any formal education in the arts. He quit the same year he enrolled to study fine arts in the University of the Philippines. With or without formal education, Dumlao was a gifted artist. He was a muralist, a portrait canvas artist, a sculptor and a stained glass innovator. For many years, he served as Art Director of San Miguel Corporation and developed a friendship with his top art patron, Don Andres Soriano, through whom he met Don Manuel Elizalde, another art patron.

 

 

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Antonio Dumlao. (Photo sourced from the Net)

(Photo sourced from the Net)

 

 

DUMLAO was friends with Fernando Amorsolo, a contemporary, who has great admiration and respect for his work. Ironically, not much is known about DUMLAO. Nor about his deep friendship with his childhood friend from Intramuros days, Vicente Manansala. When Dumlao had a stroke in 1979, his daughter recounted how “Mang Enteng” flew to his father’s bedside. Genuine friends, indeed. Two years after that visit, Manansala had a heart attack and died before Dumlao, who died in 1983.

 

 

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Ina ng Lahi. Photo sourced from the Net.

(Sourced from the Net: “Ina Ng Lahi”. UP Vargas Museum. Filipiniana Collection.)

 

 

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Not just a painter or muralist. He works on stained glass too!
Photo Sourced from the Net.

(Sourced from the Net: “Sarimanok” Stained Glass. Far eastern University)

 

 

Imagine how this gifted muralist restored Luna’s Spoliarium! Makes me wonder how much of the mural is Luna’s and how much was Dumlao’s. I know, that’s NOT fair to say. Forgive this non-artist, layman’s random thought. One thing’s for sure though. This Luna fan is now officially a Dumlao fan too. His other stained glass works are still in Malacañang and in the Mosque in Quiapo. Now, this requires a visit! Join me?

 


What makes a good tour guide? I’ve met quite a few and can easily pick out those who stand out in my list. Them whose credo is to make every traveler or tourist enjoy his trip. Them who treat their job like their religion. With passion. With devotion. In the same vein, I can just as easily weed out the wrong types. Them who spit out names, dates and other historical facts almost mechanically, at times not minding whether or not you caught the trail of the pseudo-history lesson. I’m sure you know the types.

 

 

 

In my experience, I never really found the perfect tour guide. But each experience is rendered unique because of some “connection”. I’ve kept in touch with a few. I’ve even dedicated some blogs to “honor” them. Here’s a short list. 🙂

 

 

Randy, the Butanding Whisperer (Donsol, Sorsogon)

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Randy. The Butanding Whisperer.
Donsol, Sorsogon.

 

 

To this day, Randy still sends me text messages in his “jejemon” style which gives me tremendous headaches! I am still able to refer to Randy some of my friends eager for a Butanding experience. My grandchildren still remember him fondly.

 

 

Rusty, The Last Caretaker of Syquia Mansion (Vigan)

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Syquia Mansion in Vigan, Ilocos Sur. Don’t miss this!

 

 

I wonder how Rusty is. I failed to take a photo of him. Does he have his “apprentice” to train now? Has Rusty retired already?

 

 

Rogers With An “S” (Batanes)

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He punctuates his sentences with “I Love You”. And yes, take that seriously!

 

 

He punctuates his sentences  with “I love you’s” and his face has a perennial smile sure to infect each person he meets. Rogers — yes, with an “S” — is not young, but his energy and passion is forever on overdrive. Where does he get all the energy? Must be the Batanes air!

 

 

Cemetery Guides, anyone? (LA LOMA, NORTH & CHINESE CEMETERIES)

 

 

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La Loma Cemetery. Who would have thought this makes for an outstanding guided tour? In the league of New Orleans and Paris!

 

 

I joined a tour organized by the Museum Foundation of the Philippines and was only too happy to have the brilliant Architect Manuel Noche and the hilarious, ever-energetic Ivan Man Dy walk us through history as we walked around the mounds and mausoleums, some of which are as high as 3 storeys. I’m telling ya….. this guided tour is certainly worth the buckets of sweat that humid day!

 

 

Juan Luna Shrine: So, Who Shot The Patriot’s Wife? (Badoc, Ilocos Norte)

 

 

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The Juan Luna Shrine in Badoc, Ilocos Norte. Drop by on your drive from Laoag to Vigan. It’s the last town of Ilocos Norte on your way to Ilocos Sur.

 

 

Bet some of you didn’t know that. Yes, Juan Luna shot his own wife. I’d love to retell the story but that nameless guide in the Luna Shrine can’t be beaten in his craft. It was this man who inspired my grandchildren to always ask for a Tour Guide when we’re traveling. And they do listen….. In a way that makes me real jealous.

 

 

Mount Pinatubo: An Ex-Marine For A Guide and A Native Aeta for a Driver

 

 

Who would have thought I’d do this at my age? I was determined, but it sure was motivating that the trek was made shorter! I came in my old pair of comfy rubber shoes, then left with a pair of slippers. My guide’s daughter needed a pair and so mine — though used — must have made a good present.

 

 

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Our Pinatubo Guides!

 

 

THANKS TO THESE TOUR GUIDES —- my trips to these places are made truly memorable. There are DIY (Do It Yourself) Trips, and there are those where the experience is enhanced by how a local’s perspective is drawn much differently from what the travel books say. Priceless. Much.


Food tripping in Manila? We’ve tried some restaurants and takeout counters and came up with this list!

GREENBELT/GLORIETTA AREA

Tutto Domani

Cafe Breton

Spectrum In Raffles-Fairmont Hotel

Lobby of Makati Shangrila Hotel

Sentro 1771 in Greenbelt 3

TONKATSU By Terazawa

Yomenya Goemon in Greenbelt 3

Toast Box

Heaven & Eggs in Glorietta 4

Going Greek in Cyma

DRAFT in Greenbelt 2

Burger Bar

Teddy’s Bigger Burgers

ROCKWELL

Grace Park

Hatch 22

Mamou

Wooden Spoon

TWG Tea Salon

Zaifu at Power Plant Mall

KAYA Korean Restaurant

Morelli’s Gelato in Power Plant Mall

Cucina Victoria in Power Plant Mall

DRAFT in Rockwell

THE FORT

Champêtre

Going Mad For Garlic….. anytime!

Las Flores

Tokyo Bubble Tea at The Fort

Bar Dolci at The Fort

Shi Lin (Chinese, what else?) At The Fort

IHOP. Or OverHyped?

Cabalen (Pinoy Buffet) in Market, Market

Banapple at Market, Market

YABU IN SM AURA

SHINE Bakery & Cafe

MAGNUM in SM AURA

ARACAMA

SARSA Kitchen

Ramen Nagi

AROUND MAKATI AREA

BLACKBIRD (formerly Nielson Tower)

ESCOLTA At The PEN

Romulo Cafe in Jupiter Street (Pinoy With A Twist)

Kikufuji  

Hole In The Wall

Kashmir

Pino or Pipino? Carnivores Vs Vegetarians?

Build and Design Your Own Burger

Build and Design Your Own Pizza Pie

Shinjuku in Little Tokyo off Pasay Road

Toby’s Estate

Cara Mia or Amicí?

XO 46 in Salcedo Village (Spanish-Filipino Cuisine)

Kanin Club for Rice-Eaters

Rai Rai Ken

Kite Kebab in Poblacion

Señor Pollo in Poblacion

Coffee and Saints (Don Bosco Church, Makati)

The Plantation in Legazpi Village

Sophie’s Mom in San Antonio Village, Makati

Mochiko in Malunggay Street, Makati

As Korean As DONU Grill in Polaris

The Curator, A Coffee Shop

Commune Cafe & Bar

Your Local & Yardstick

Rural Kitchen of Liliw

MALL OF ASIA Area

China Blue in Conrad Hotel

Cafe Adriatico or Abe’s in Mall of Asia

Lugang Cafe (Chinese)

Sebastian’s Artisanal Ice Cream

Movie Stars Cafe

Razon’s in MOA and Elsewhere

Abe’s

SUBURBIAN MANILA

BLACK PIG in Alabang

Vieux Chalet in Antipolo

Swiss Deli in BF Homes III

OLD MANILA/CHINATOWN

Binondo: Po Heng Lumpia House

Binondo: Happy & Delicious Kitchen

Binondo: Dong-Bei Dumpling House

Ambos Mundos

ELSEWHERE IN MANILA

Ginzadon in Resorts World

Corazon in Shangrila Mall

Casa Roces Near Malacañan Palace

Epicurious

Peri Peri Chicken 

Rita’s

Lombardi’s for Italian Food

Project Pie in Mandaluyong

Makan Makan in Hotel H2O

Dulcelin in UP Town Hall

Crepeman in Maginhawa Street

Papa Diddi in Maginhawa Street

Cafe Publico in Greenhills’ Promenade

Krazy Garlic in Greenhill’s Promenade

TAKEOUTS

TDF (To Die For)

Best Mango Torte STILL from CUERVA’s

PIMBRERA in San Antonio Plaza (Forbes)

Bon Banhmi

Ellie’s Cookies


Ivatan cuisine is as fresh and healthy as it gets. Most visitors would be eager to feast on freshly-caught lobsters and the coconut crabs (called “tatus”) indigenous to the place, but there’s really more beyond these coveted seafoods.

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coconut crabs are called “tatus”

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lobster galore1

Priced at 600 pesos a kilo (US$15/kg), I can eat those lobsters daily! As it turned out though, there were more of the other dishes which were repeatedly served during our stay in Batanes. Not that I don’t like them, but a little variety could have helped. Like I would have welcomed fish sinigang, calamares and fish kilawin while I was there. 😉

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More LOBSTERS!

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AND FISH. Grilled, fried or sweet and sour? I like mine sinigang!

But I do miss the lumot (seaweed) soup, pako (fiddlehead fern) salad, “Venes” or dried gabi (like “laing” but not really) and Uvud balls (minced banana pith cooked with fish flakes and minced pork). The last one seems to be the national dish of Batanes 😉 along with the luñis — the Ivatan adobo cooked in salt rather than vinegar and soy sauce — as they were served in nearly all buffet meals we’ve had during our stay.

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Pako Salad. Made from fiddlehead fern.

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uvud ng sarap!

When we visited the village of Savidug (named after a tree otherwise called “talisay” elsewhere) in Sabtang Island, our guide pointed out a Kabaya (breadfruit) tree to us. The Kabaya leaves are used as plates and may even be folded to scoop soup! Ingenuity at its best. Makes for a great picnic!

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Now, that’s a spoon!

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Good for scooping!

I didn’t see any rice paddies in Batanes. Nor fruit trees other than bananas. For sure, there are sweet potatoes and yam. We were served rice with turmeric, freshly harvested coconuts and the sweetest camote (sweet potato). There aren’t too many dessert choices and while I enjoyed the camote cue and “bukayo”, I’d soon grow tired of it if I had it all too often. For sure, I’d know what to bring the next time I visit Batanes!

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“Lunis” or ivatan adobo.

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Do we have to make a choice?

(Thank you, Chikie and Pinky for some of the food photos!)

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