Category: Travel, travels



How much do we know of the Luna brothers? Honestly? I simply know one is a painter, the other a General. Both are patriots. And both are friends and contemporaries of Dr. Jose P. Rizal. Many of us would think that knowledge is enough. Toinks!

Juan Luna Shrine in Badoc, Ilocos Norte

On our way from Laoag to Vigan, we passed Badoc, Ilocos Norte. This is the last town of Ilocos Norte. And this is the birthplace of the Luna brothers. The Juan Luna Shrine can be found here — a building made of brick housing the memorabilia and paintings of this patriotic, and very controversial painter.

Death of Cleopatra (Museo del Prado @Madrid)

Spolarium (now on display @National Museum of the Philippines)

Luna killed his wife and mother-in-law because of

jealousy.

So goes the story. Makes for a great headline.

The patriot who painted such classics and award-winning Spoliarium (Gold Medal, 1884, now on display at the National Museum of the Philippines), Death of Cleopatra (Silver Medal, 1881, Museo del Prado in Madrid), Parisian Life (another Silver Medal, 1889, GSIS Museum), Battle of Lepanto, Blood Compact (1886, Malacanang Palace), Una Bulakenya (1895, Malacanang Palace), among others. The patriot as a murderer? Says who?

Inside Juan Luna Shrine

The Tour Guide did not miss a beat telling and retelling this story. Sure, Juan Luna shot his mother-in-law and wife dead. We also just learned that he shot his brother-in-law Felix Pardo de Tavera too in the same incident, but this “lucky” fellow survived. Was it an accident or was this a crime of passion?

Most answers you’d find point to Juan Luna shooting his wife Paz in a fit of jealousy. The accused lover was a certain Monsieur Dussaq. Having settled in Paris after his marriage, I can only assume this Dussaq is one Frenchman. So, did Juan shoot his wife et al? All this after only 6 years of marriage. Our Ilocano Tour Guide has another version. Like Juan tried to force open the door to their home in Paris by shooting at the door knob, not knowing the mother-in-law was peeping through the keyhole with the wife right behind her. Quite a stretch………..if you ask me. But oh well, that’s the version. (*big yawn)

The couple had 2 children but one died in infancy. The surviving child, Andres, is also a painter and the architect who designed Arlegui House, the residence of ex-President Cory Aquino, and the San Vicente de Paul Church in San Marcelino Street. Many of his works were unfortunately destroyed during the Second World War.


Rizal as a Scribe? or a Sphinx?

Una Bulakenya (Used To Be On Display @Malacanang Palace, Now @National Art Gallery)

The Other Luna Brothers

Juan’s passion for the arts was influenced by his brother Manuel who was also a painter. A better one, if we were to believe Dr. Jose Rizal. From Badoc, Ilocos Norte, the Luna family moved to Manila where the brothers studied. Manuel and Juan traveled together to Spain where Juan had more art (painting) lessons while Manuel ventured into music and later claimed fame as a violinist.

When Juan was arrested for shooting his wife and later acquitted (on grounds of insanity), it was Antonio (yes, General Antonio Luna) who accompanied him from Paris to Madrid and finally to Manila. Both brothers were arrested for rebellion charges, and later released. Juan headed back to Spain, while Antonio remained and was later killed by the Kawit Batallion (another controversial story involving Emilio Aguinaldo, but that’s another story).

One unfinished, intriguing story involves the painting “Una Bulaquena” or Woman from Bulacan. The painting was inspired by a woman who was allegedly the one great love of Antonio Luna, though the other version cites Juan having courted her after losing/shooting Paz. A case of sibling rivalry? Who knows?

This photo shows how tall or short Rizal was..........

Juan Luna’s Distinguished Models

Not many of us know that Dr. Rizal actually posed as Datu Sikatuna in Juan Luna’s “Blood Compact”. In his silver award-winning painting “Death of Cleopatra”, our national hero actually posed in earlier sittings as a scribe complete with a headdress , making him look like a sphinx. Juan Luna himself posed as Marc Anthony in the same painting. Somehow, I can imagine how these men must have enjoyed all these sittings, horsing around, posing in costumes, etc.

The original Parisian Life painting used to hang here in Bahay Nakpil-Bautista in Quiapo

Then of course everybody knows Dr. Rizal was one of the 3 models in the GSIS-acquired “Parisian Life”. The other 2 gentlemen in the painting were Juan Luna himself and Ariston Bautista, in whose house this same painting hung for years. Errr, that is yet another story again.

But these men were not just models. They were our heroes. Patriots. Gentlemen-friends, if you may. Their love of country, passion for the arts and literature, intellect, perhaps even love of women must have bound them like blood brothers in a place far away from home and family, in an era marked by secret alliances and trysts, murder and heroism.

C’est la vie………..

Inside the Shrine @Badoc, Ilocos Norte

Exit Through The Backyard: More Paintings (Reproductions)

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Just in the suburbs.  This oasis of peace and quiet is truly an art haven.  As my friend puts it, this is our very own MOMA (Museum of Modern Art). A not-to-be-missed destination. You don’t even have to be an art lover to enjoy this place.  But there is no guarantee you won’t end up as one by the time you’re done.

 

 

Despite the humidity,  the place offers a pitstop for tired bodies, restless minds and depressed spirits. Strolling around the gardens aimlessly, we soon learned why this place has become famous for pre-nuptial photo shoots.  It is most certainly a haven of creativity.  And I am just talking about the gardens here.  Wait till you go through the Museum proper, where I advise you to go slow to digest every ounce of art and culture. 

 

 

The Pinto Art Museum and Silangan Gardens is right inside Grandheights Subdivision in Antipolo City. I’m lousy with directions so if you plan to visit the place,  give them a call at (+632) 703-4453 or (+63917) 608-6754)  to ask for directions.  There is much to see here. And it is not difficult to wander aimlessly and view the collections of noted neurologist and art patron Dr. Joven Cuanang. We were lucky to find the good doctor in his residence right within the gallery compound when we visited.  He was most kind and even eagerly showed us around the many items of art inside his residence hemmed in by the lovely gardens.

 

How To Say “Ma.wa.lang.Ga.lang. Po.

It is of natural consequence that one views these collections with a sense of pride over Pinoy ingenuity and artistry. Filipino artists, both famous and promising, found a home here.  Dr. Cuanang talks about his collections like a father would lovingly and proudly talk about his children.  Like all his sentiments and emotional attachments wrap each piece of art and collection.   We were not surprised to learn that the good doctor has not parted with ANY piece of art that he has acquired through the years. Each of these acquisitions hangs proudly on the Museum walls in this architectural complex designed by no less than artist Antonio Leano.  The high ceilings , white stone walls , open porches and sprawling gardens all make for a very colonial/Mexican architecture.  As one weaves from hall to hall to view the exhibits,  there is an element of unhurriedness and pleasure as one’s aesthetic senses are stirred.  Surely, this place is a labor of love!   

 

Thanks to Dr. Cuanang and his vision and advocacy, we are able to enjoy our own MOMA within the City. 


A Painting of Dr. Joven Cuanang

PS. We visited again on April 5, 2018 and found even more improvements, including its Cafe Rizal. Met Dr. Cuanang once more and felt jealous that this man lives within the Museum grounds and only had to step out and literally stroll around the gardens, visit the galleries and then stop for a drink in the cafe. What a great life!

https://youtu.be/qfbrgcvIcho


I have not been to Batanes. I am forever planning a visit to this northernmost part of the country.  So many summers passed and I have not once visited.   But this is the nearest thing I’ve done short of visiting this northernmost island.

Ivatan Stonehouses in Bustos. Not in Batanes.

The Main Ivatan Stonehouse

Inside the Ivatan Stonehouse

The BAHAY AT YAMAN NI SAN MARTIN DE PORRES  can be found in Claro Santos St., Bonga Menor, Bustos, Bulacan. It began as a feeding center in Tondo back in 2002 for the  street children of Manila through the initiative of Rev. Fr. Florentino S. Concepcion.  Better known as  “Father Boyet”,  he inspired countless others to share time and resources for what was initially a Soup Kitchen  which blossomed into a center for streetchildren who found love and care beyond the hot meals and shelter. As the “Bambang Kids” grew in number,  Fr. Boyet  transferred the “community” in 2003 to this donated lot in Bustos, Bulacan.  As more well-meaning Christians supported Fr. Boyet’s project,  these streetchildren were fed, sheltered, ‘healed’ and treated with love and tender care.   Volunteer psychologists and social workers, along with financial donors, helped sustain this apostolate mission such that the Center now houses and cares for as many as 120 streetchildren.

The Chapel. Boys sit left of aisle. Girls on the right. If unruly, the boys sit with the girls.

An Apostolate so pure in its ways, so simple in its Mission.

We weaved through ricefields and paddies to reach the Center which now has a Chapel and a few stone houses built like the ones you’d find in Batanes.  These Ivatan -inspired stonehouses are so lovely that we all agreed we’d stay a night here sometime soon, and spend more time with the children.   The dormitories where the children live are surrounded by moat-like fishponds.   Up on the 2nd floor,  there are folding cabinets in varied colors and an uncluttered floor shining in its cleanliness and space.  I can imagine the boys rolling out their mats here and sleeping with the wide windows open to let the breeze in.  

A Moat and A Dormitory

Sleeping Quarters On The Second Floor

Right across the dormitories, there is a Social Hall cum dining area.  Lovingly designed with vibrant colors, the hall is artistically decorated with items  one would normally discard.  Like empty bottles hanging on a makeshift chandelier made of dried twigs and branches.   I found beauty everywhere. The colors, the minimalist decor,  the ingenious artistry, the carpentry,  all these combine to create an atmosphere of love and communality.  

Don't Discard Those Bottles and Twigs!

For sure, the Center can do with a lot of help from us who can spare time and resources to live out our Christianity right here where help finds meaning.  With 120 streetchildren under his wing, Fr. Boyet needs our support.  Go visit them, and view a slice of Batanes in this area of Bulacan. Meet King David, a 10year old who has gone through 4 religions at so young an age. He can entertain you with his operatic voice.  I kid you not.  And there’s Ramon Magsaysay, an abandoned baby who is forever clinging to Fr. Boyet the whole time we were there.  And another pre-teen whose body bore tattoos long before he knew what those markings are.  Go visit, and discover a part of yourself too.  That part which longs to offer a slice of heaven for God’s children. 

SAN MARTIN DE PORRES
Address: Mission Road, Bonga Menor, Bustos, Bulacan 3007, Philippines
Manila Office: +632-367-02-72
Cell no: +63-918-517-4492

More Than Just A Soup Kitchen Now!

Sheltered, Fed, Educated and Loved.

God Bless Fr. Boyet and the Kids!

“In every way I have shown you that by hard work of that sort, we must help the weak and keep in mind the words of the Lord Jesus who himself said, “It is more blessed to give than to receive.” (Acts 21:3)


My friends are here on holiday and in their must-try list is dining at Antonio’s in Tagaytay.  But which Antonio’s?   There’s Breakfast by Antonio. There’s Antonio’s Grill. And there’s “the real” Antonio’s.  

It was a no-brainer to decide which.    It was a fine day to delight in foie gras, tinto verano, minted veal cheeks, roasted bone marrow, escargot, and duck breast.  Lunch or dinner here is definitely a major, major treat.  The only major, major problem is deciding which dish to try.  And I have not even considered the problem of deciding which appetizers to try before the main entree.  

Chef Antonio was around hopping from table to table when we arrived.  He made it “easy” for us to order our usual favorites while checking out some food discoveries and novel concoctions from the kitchen. He convinced us to try the Tinto Verano and promptly explained how easy it is to make:  just a full-bodied Merlot, some soda, juice from 2 lemons, a few lemon slices to garnish and ice cubes for a cool drink!  In ordering the Roasted Bone Marrow, Chef Antonio didn’t have to convince us much.  We were suckers for anything sinful 🙂 But it made us feel less guilty to hear Chef Antonio explain that he had a batch of medical doctors savoring this very flavorful dish and even ending up convinced that this dish is actually good for our health!

Tinto Verano, myEyeglasses, myMedications

And who can say no to Chanterelle  Mushrooms with Braised Foie Gras gracing the top of this appetizer? Or ignore the escargot swimming in the finest olive oil and herbs? For sure, this lunch is a 3 hour affair to do justice to this lovely spread of appetizers, soup, salad, main entree and delightful desserts.   After all, we need to digest and leave room for the equally savory (and sinful?) dishes and it would be an epic fail to leave a single morsel of food on the plate after each serving.  Today, they served Roast Tomato Soup and Antonio’s Mesclun Salad with Glazed Walnuts and Dried Currants.   The Raspberry Vinaigrette is exactly how we hoped the salad to be dressed.  

Chanterelle Mushrooms with Foie Gras+Tinto Verano+Escargot+Roasted Bone Marrow: And these are just appetizers!

I always agonize over the menu.  Invariably, I end up ordering my fav Roasted Duck Breast Infused with Truffle, Goji Berries, Seared Foie Gras served with Braised Red Cabbages and Mashed Potatoes.  When it comes to steaks and foie gras, I trust only Antonio’s  and Lolo Dad’s.  As expected, Chef Antonio Escalante did not disappoint. For carnivores, you may also try Antonio’s Trio of Beef Medallion Gratinated with Assorted Mushroom, another morsel of beef (?) and a Lamb Loin. On my 1st time here, this was what I ordered, though I remember the trio to have a light portion of grilled seabass then along with the beef and lamb. The 2nd and 3rd time around, I went bolder with the Pork Knuckles (the finer , classier version of our Crispy Pata) served with sauerkrat and potatoes, and the Osso Buco.  

Roasted Duck Breast Infused with Truffle with Goji Berries, Seared Foie Gras Braised Red Cabbage and Mashed Potatoes(my fav

Minted Veal Cheeks & Goat Cheese Ravioli on Creamed Crepes

This time around,  we tried a novelty.  The Minted Veal Cheeks and Goat Cheese Ravioli in Creamed Crepes was light, creamy, flavourful, delicioso! If you think you’d want to load up and try more appetizers and go easy on the main entree,  this dish is just right for you.  Oh, the steaks here are oh so good. If you have a big appetite and think you can survive loading up on all those appetizers, soup and salad,  go ahead and let those steaks touch your lips.  It is good for 2 so be sure to team up with someone.

Antonio's Desserts!

The intervals by which they serve the appetizers, soup, salad, main entree ring perfect. These guys surely know their stuff.   They must have pored over books on how long it takes to digest food, or how long it takes before a new food subject can start up another conversation.   We were just about ready to leave the subject of veal cheeks, duck breast, and lechon when we were given the menu to order our desserts.   We all agreed we should each order a different dessert so we can try all.  The Dark Chocolate Souffle with Cardammon and Creme Anglaise wins hands down.  So with the Panacotta Sampler.  What have we not tried yet?  We ordered the Chocolate Mint Parfait , Felchlin Maracaibo Chocolate Terrine and the Grilled Sugar Cinnamon Pineapple.   You can ignore that last one.  Not that it wasn’t good, but it simply pales in comparison with the parfait and the choc terrine which was served with double cream and sprinkled with roasted pistacchios.  Yummmmmmmy!

So, three hours was how long we took and enjoyed our lunch.  If you must eat here,  be sure you are in good company.  If not,  you may end up rushing through your lunch or dinner for lack of things to talk about.   And that would be a great disservice to how much effort went into every dish.   Besides, what is good food without good company?  

Postscript: We didn’t order that lechon. The group seated to the table next to ours did. Obviously, we couldn’t get our eyes off that carving table.  Hmmm, perhaps next visit…………

Choices: Al fresco dining overlooking the garden, dining in any of the airconditioned rooms, or dining by the koi pond.


The same blogger who added me among the Pinoy Travel Bloggers also nominated me to participate in My 7 Links Project .   This brilliant project by Tripbase intends “to unite bloggers from all sectors to share lessons learned and create a bank of long but not forgotten blog posts that deserve to see the light of day again”.  Thank you Marky Ramone Go of Nomadic Experiences  for the nomination.

 

 

MY MOST BEAUTIFUL POST: Reunion with the Sea Pets of Donsol

 

 

Not Just the Whale Sharks, There’s the Shrimp Fishermen of Donsol Too!

 

 

It was by far my most awesome animal experience.  One adventure for the books.  Very first time in late February 2011 and the next one last May.  This 2nd time around, with family. Beautiful animals. Beautiful experience. Beautiful family bonding time which lasted a week,  beginning with this trip to Donsol.  The adventure is forever inked in our memories. And that’s what makes it all the more beautiful.  And if anyone’s about to complain over the many face photos you find in this blog……..eat your heart out!  We love being FAMILY 😉

 

 

MY MOST CONTROVERSIAL POST:  Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar

 

 

Luksong Baka @Ciudad Acuzar

 

This beats many a collector’s dream.  I am not sure whether to thank the collector,  to envy him, to condemn him or what.

 

Uprooted from various areas within the country were a small chapel, the entire turn of the century school building, and many ancestral houses to form part of the new “old town” representing Mr. Acuzar’s collections. This development inevitably invited many critics to scream foul, asserting that these historical landmarks are best left and preserved wherever they were. So much furor for the transfer of all these heritage structures to satisfy one man’s dream collection!  At the same time, there were also those who hail the transfer of all these ancestral and historical structures to one area with a good promise that the owner/collector will preserve the structures.  Though a private collection and property,  “Ciudad de Acuzar” is bound to attract a lot of attention, and likely curious visitors.

 

 

MY MOST HELPFUL POST:  Eating Around the Philippines

 

 

 

I have joined, and now moderate, a community of  travel bloggers  from all over the world.  Judging by the blogs written about the Philippines,  I felt compelled to jot down this “food guide” to introduce our local delicacies.   What it accomplished is to get more of my friends from TravelBlog to visit the country and feast on our local cuisine especially the fruits.   Unexpectedly, I also received a lot of mail from Filipino readers whose appetites and happy childhood memories  were stirred just reading this blog.

 

 

A  POST WHOSE SUCCESS SURPRISED ME:  Konya: Mevlana and the Center of Sufism

 

 

 

 

I knew nothing about Sufism till a few months before this trip. The mystique of the dance by the Whirling Dervishes held nothing for me. I may have read , even watched docu-films about them, but none registered. The dance is called “Sema” which has formed part of Turkish culture, custom and history. Sema represents the mystical journey of man’s spiritual ascent by way of maximum and unlimited tolerance, love without regard for race, color or creed.  A kind of spiritual maturity entailing acceptance of ALL religious beliefs.  Now, wouldn’t that philosophy bring peace to our world?  For sure,  this journey gave me a newfound tolerance for other religious philosophies.  Mevlana's Museum in KonyaMevlana's Museum in KonyaMevlana's Museum in Konya

 

 

This post was hailed by TravelBlog as “Blog of the Year 2009”  for Middle East (Writing Category).

 

 

A  POST THAT I FELT DIDN’T GET THE  ATTENTION IT DESERVED:  When Every Prayer Bead Counts in Israel

 

 

 

 

At the time I visited Israel in 1996, I was not a very spiritual person. Perhaps I am still not. But I know that after this visit, I came home a changed person. Still a ‘work in progress’. But one’s got to try.

 

I have said rosaries every now and then before this trip, and I say them almost daily now. And this time, I ‘feel’ every passion in each rosary bead. Covering Israel is very much like saying the rosary every hour every day. The passion of Christ in each and every rosary bead is most felt in this Holy Land. Heretofore I would recite the rosary in an almost mechanical fashion. But now, I can picture the very image of each and every mystery and feel the presence of our Saviour in a most spiritual way.   So YES,  this blog deserves more attention. If not from you,  from ME — as a reminder of the transformation I went through back then.

 

 

MY MOST POPULAR POST: Craving For Bicolano Food?

 

 

Care for SILI SHAKE?

 

 

I do not know if my “reputation” precedes me.  I love food.  I love dining out. I grew up with a good appreciation that my good behavior will be rewarded with a nice “edible” treat.

 

And so this blog tops the list in my wordpress blogsite.  My Travelblog Top Post  is obviously about food adventure in some resort town too.  So I am somehow getting this message that I should soon graduate into food blogging.  But then again,  all my travels are never complete without the food adventures.  So whether you like it or not, I’d stick to travel blogging.  🙂

 

 

THE POST THAT I AM  MOST PROUD OF : Same Places Through The Years  

 

 

 

 

This is about my first solo adventure and my very first trip to Europe.  Nerves strung high, anxieties overflowing, I made it to Bradford, England without a hitch.  From there, I wasted no weekend at the height of winter to visit other places then so alien to my eyes and young traveler’s mind.  Little did I know that this journey would stir that wanderlust and forever link me to the rest of the world.

 

This blog was also voted one of TravelBlog’s Best Blog For 2010  in both the Europe writing and the Europe photography sections.  It also earned for me the Hall of Fame Award in TravelBlog, after more than 2 years of blogging.

 

Now, it’s my turn to nominate 5 other travel bloggers for this My 7 Links Project.  Here goes:

 

The Pinay Solo Backpacker    She has no home, sweet home, just pure enjoyment of the world and culture. Nobody to look after her during her trip, nobody that will put barriers to the destinations she is willing to see… Gail is an icon in the blogosphere.  Never afraid to go, wherever her heart takes her. 

 

Flipnomad  His way of traveling kept on changing, from going to the usual resorts  to going to nearby provinces to backpacking. All these opened his eyes to a lot of other cultures and gave him a chance to meet interesting people that have interesting views in life. One trip he made which I plan to do is the one month El Nido trip.  What bliss!

 

The Lost Boy Lloyd A young blogger showing so much promise.  Lloyd looks forward to weekends and school breaks to do more traveling. A prolific blogger, and fast gaining a following from both young and old folks like me.

 

Philippine Travelogue  Another young blogger offering excellent travel tips on where to go, what to do, how to enjoy. Met Brenna by accident in Chinatown, spotted her through the many blogs she’s done which I have read. Very young indeed, and very talented.

 

Lakwatsero  Another icon in the blogosphere.  Angel treks, he climbs, he swims, he dives, he photographs, he writes, and he writes well!  Been following his blogs and enjoying them thoroughly.   The narratives and photographs will keep you entertained, and appropriately educated/informed. 


Yes, Alagao.  I hail from the province and what I know of alagao is that it has a “hairy” leaf. Yes, H.A.I.R.Y.  But it is one hell of a versatile leaf. Just like the guava leaves,  they can be used to wash wounds or applied to open cuts.   Whenever we have indigestion or suffering from gas pains,  our elders would come up with this concoction and force us to drink the alagao tea, if you can call it that.  Gosh, I even remember our quack doctor with some cut up alagao leaf or two on his temples to cure his headache!

 

As kids, we would play-cook and readily discard the alagao leaves among our “ingredients” for whatever it was we are boiling or concocting.  That’s because we didn’t like the “felt” texture of the leaf. Hairy has no room in our kids’ menu back then. But in this part of Antipolo, alagao  takes centerstage in this lovely lunch buffet.  Was I in for a pleasant surprise!

 

Signature Appetizer Is Alagao Leaves With Spices & Other Fillings

 

It was past my lunchtime when we reached Crescent Moon Cafe.  I do not know how long it has been in business  in this corner in Antipolo, Rizal, but it sure is a well-kept  secret.   It was a very humid day, and we have just visited the Angono-Binangonan Petroglyphs at high noon!  Hungry,  I was quite ready to eat a cow by the time we reached this cafe and its lovely garden and koi ponds.

 

Choose your fillings, then wrap and roll!

 

As its signature appetizers,  one makes his own “rolls” using an alagao leaf and stuffing it with various spices.  There’s  fried garlic, minced onions, green chili for the brave ones, alamang fried to a crisp, cut up basil leaves, cubed mangoes,  ginger and some nuts.   You choose your fillings, lay them on the leaf, smear it with some sweet dark sauce, and then wrap the leaf like you would a lumpia. Voila!  The sweet, salty, sour and spicy all compete for attention and make out a sensation that is not quite the same as any other.  What do you know, I actually like it!  

 

 

Owned by  Lanelle Abueva-Fernando,  niece of National Artist Napoleon Abueva and daughter of former UP President  Jose Abueva,  the place has no pretentions.  I understand there is really no set menu here, but the signature alagao appetizer is a mainstay.  For this lunch , we had soup,  a steamed fish, some crispy noodles with vegetable curry toppings,  a chicken dish which I ignored (not because it wasn’t good,  but a chicken is a chicken is a chicken if you know what I mean),  and another vegetable dish. Me? I focused on the alagao rolls,  steamed fish and the curried vegetables with crispy noodles.  And for dessert? We had suman served with a quarter of a mango.  I could do with another quarter, actually, but for P35o for a set lunch, I should not be complaining.  I like their suman.  No need for sugar or anything else.  The suman, by itself,  is complete in its sweetness and creaminess.  You can buy them too as take-home pasalubong for P275 a bundle.  

 

No, It's Not Soup. It's The Topping for the Crispy Noodles.

 

Done with lunch, one can stroll around the garden and pond.  On a hot day,  this place offers a refreshing break.  The trees all around make it tolerable despite the humidity.  But it is not conducive for any shopping.   Lanelle Abueva-Fernando’s pottery is right within the compound  and her works  are on display and available for sale.  There were nice  teapots and matching teacups,  serving plates , cups and saucers, jars, sugar and creamer sets, etc.  By the time we were done with lunch, all I wanted to do was to get back to the airconditioned vehicle.  You see, Crescent Moon Cafe is NOT airconditioned.  You can do away with that setup in Tagaytay (like in Sonya’s Garden) but not so here in Antipolo.  Or maybe it was simply a hot humid day  when we visited. Struggling to keep my eyelids from drooping shut,   I decided to enjoy the comforts of airconditioning in the vehicle.  

 

Crescent Moon Cafe in Antipolo City

It looks cool. Temp 38C

 

By the way,  make sure you don’t come on a Sunday or Monday when Crescent Moon Cafe is closed. And do remember that it is only open for lunch.  For directions, you may call +632 630-5854 .  But allow me to try.  😉  If you are coming from Sumulong Highway, go straight past the Ynares Rotunda and Unciano Hospital. You’ll soon find  Flying V gasoline station which is on the left side of a three forked intersection. Take the rightmost road and drive past a Shell station, then Milagrosa Subdivision. A few meters past the subdivision, you’ll see the Crescent Moon signboard. Take that road, and enter the Crescent Moon compound on the left side of the road. The exact address is Sapang Buho, Ascencion road. Barangay Dalig, Antipolo City.

 

 

And don’t be fooled. There is still  a tree-lined  walkway towards the Cafe.  You’d walk this path from the street to get inside.  It’s a pleasant walk.

 

The Art of Pottery

Entrance to Crescent Moon Cafe


This May Help Get You There 😉

 

When it comes to the subject of food, I readily go overboard.  I have earlier submitted my entry to the Pinoy Travel Bloggers’ Blog Carnival for the month of July 2011 with the theme “Awesome Food Experience While Traveling” hosted by Anton Diaz of Our Awesome Planet.  But hey,  what’s wrong with a 2nd entry?  There is always room for good food, right?  

 


Taka or Papier Mache Masks

 

It wasn’t my first time in Angono’s Balaw Balaw Restaurant.  And even before my first visit, I have heard enough about the exotic cuisine offered in this specialty restaurant cum art gallery.  Artist Perdigon Vocalan has long gone; but his wife carries on the tradition so to speak.  Angono is famous for its artists and Balaw Balaw seems to have lured many of them to this dining place for both eats and art talk. Around 100  of Perdigon Vocalan’s paintings and those of other folk artists are displayed in the 2nd floor Museum above the specialty restaurant along with various sculptures representing the rich cultural heritage and folklore of  Angono, Rizal.

 

Balaw Balaw Specialty Restaurant in Angono, Rizal

Inside Balaw Balaw Specialty Restaurant

Call It A Food Adventure

It was too early for the dreaded “sawa” and “bayawak” dishes.  That was some relief. 🙂  I may be adventurous with food but I will most definitely have second thoughts about putting that stuff into my mouth.  Instead, we partook of the “maruya” — fried banana cooked with some flour and smothered with sugar.  This I like.  The ginger tea that went with it was a perfect match.  Reminded me of those afternoon snacks served by my grandmother back when tea was served in a bowl rather than an earless mug or tea cup.

 

 

The place is called “Balaw Balaw” after that very Tagalog side serving cum appetizer or sauce made from “alamang” mixed with rice and some herb called “angkak” to give it a reddish coloring.  Fermented for some 3 days,  this side serving goes well wrapped in “mustasa” or mustard leaves, and eaten with anything grilled like fish or meat.  Some actually use it like one would use “patis” or fish sauce with their “sinigang” or sour broth.

 

 

Would you believe there are 12 kinds of sinigang in this food establishment?  I do remember having tried in the past this sinigang dish with fish native to Angono-Binangonan-Baras-Tanay area.  Sinigang na kanduli is good.  I also liked the grilled hito or catfish.  And the fried dalag with its yummy roe!  Although they serve it,  this place entices you to be more adventurous outside of the usual kare-kare, kaldereta, and ihaw-ihaw.  Not to forget, there is also the Fried Itik — the tagalog version of the famous Peking Duck.  And there’s Minaluto, which is really like a ‘binalot’ plus tons more.  Likewise wrapped in banana leaves,  then steamed,  this makes for a meal by itself.  So, what are you guys having?  As for me,  I’m quite content with the maruya, ginger tea, and an hour’s look-see around the 2nd floor Art Gallery and the 3rd floor craftshop for the “taka”.

 

The Last Supper

The Art Capital of the Philippines?

 

Angono boasts of 2 National Artists:  the late muralist  Botong Francisco and the musician Maestro Lucio San Pedro.  Many of the Angono artists, including Perdigon Vocalan, were influenced by the late Carlos “Botong” Francisco who died in 1968. On the other hand, the Angono National Symphonic Band exists, though not too many heard of it.  Maestro San Pedro inspired many musical talents through his guidance of this band.  His most famous musical piece is “Sa Ugoy ng Duyan”, immortalized in a woodcarving or wood sculpture to be found in this Art Gallery .   San Pedro passed away in 2002, almost on the same date as Botong Francisco.

 

"Sa Ugoy Ng Duyan"

Art of Taka (Papier Mache)

 

Soon after our mid-snack of maruya,  we sat for a few more minutes to watch how “taka” is made.  Frankly,  it is your usual papier mache but instead of vases, bowls, jars, or picture frames,  this Angono art flourished to a form that the Higantes Festival of Angono is now celebrated every November 23rd. The “Higantes” are actually giant caricatures made of papier mache.  Folklore has it that the caricatures are those of the Spanish landlord (and his family)  for lands tilled by Angono locals.   This explains the sharp features in the “higantes” masks and dolls,  and the standard hands-on-the-hips representations crafted by the Angono folks. It is said that in a way,  the art of mask-making was an expression of how locals view their “masters” or landlords.  This is the same Spanish landlord and his family who banned all fiestas in the area except for the Feast Day of San Clemente every November 23.  Folklore has it that the Spanish landlord thought too many fiestas or celebrations are wasteful.  For this reason, the natives found a way to ventilate their protest every November 23 through these taka effigies which are paraded around town, and which fiestas culminate in a fluvial procession on the waters of Laguna de Bay.

 

Inside Balaw Balaw Restaurant

 

I have never been to its fiesta , but it should be interesting to witness one this coming November 23. Amazing how local folks turned papier mache into an art in this neck of the woods.  The papier mache masks certainly bear a resemblance to long-ago mestizo landlords.   The arrogant placement of the hands on the hips is the perfect give away.

 

Photo Sourced From The Web

 

So , do we have a date this November 23rd?  Great.  And while we await that date, how about we refresh our memory of this long-ago song composed by National Artist San Pedro with lyrics from Levi Celerio? Take time to picture what was on the artists’ minds when they crafted this lovely song. 🙂

 

Sana’y di nagmaliw ang dati kong araw
Nang munti pang bata sa piling ni nanay
Nais kong maulit ang awit ni inang mahal
Awit ng pag-ibig habang ako’y nasa duyan

Sana’y di nagmaliw ang dati kong araw
Nang munti pang bata sa piling ni nanay
Nais kong maulit ang awit ni inang mahal
Awit ng pag-ibig habang ako’y nasa duyan

Refrain:
Sa aking pagtulog na labis ang himbing
Ang bantay ko’y tala, ang tanod ko’y bituin
Sa piling ni nanay, langit ay buhay
Puso kong may dusa sabik sa ugoy ng duyan

Sana’y di nagmaliw ang dati kong araw
Nang munti pang bata sa piling ni nanay
Nais kong maulit ang awit ni inang mahal
Awit ng pag-ibig habang ako’y nasa duyan

Sa aking pagtulog na labis ang himbing
Ang bantay ko’y tala, ang tanod ko’y bituin
Sa piling ni nanay, langit ay buhay
Puso kong may dusa sabik sa ugoy ng duyan

Nais kong matulog sa dating duyan ko, inay
Oh! inay


I have a soft spot for Bicol.  And I have a big appetite for Bicol dishes.  Oh, not just dishes.  Of late, I have discovered and loved their exotic shakes and ice cream! (Ice Cream Photo Borrowed From FlipNomad)

 

Sili Ice Cream @1st Colonial Grill

SILI Rocks

 

We found this cozy place called Bicol Blends Cafe in Daraga , Albay — right along the Rizal Road connecting Legazpi City to Daraga all the way to our previous destination, Donsol.   First time we chanced upon it,  we were actually at 1st Colonial Grill which is right beside this cafe.  Now, 1st Colonial Grill was what brought us to this neck of the woods.  The Tinapa Rice and Buko Chopsuey there are good reasons for a visit.  Over and above that,  we were longing to try that famous SILI ice cream.  SILI???? Yes, sili as in chilis as in peppers as in HOT and SPICY.

 

Tinapa Rice @1st Colonial Grill

 

It didn’t look threatening at all.  In fact, it can pass for strawberry ice cream at first glance.  But wait till you taste the last drop.  The spice kicks in.  Your tongue feels the “burn”, and so does your palate as you finish up with that last lick.  So be sure to have a tall glass of water at arm’s reach.  But wait, there’s more than just the SILI ice cream here.  Right beside 1st Colonial Grill is a coffee shop cum pastry shop owned by the same family.  Bicol Blends Cafe soon took over as our favorite coffee place in Bicol for its exotic pastry items and even more exotic shakes.

 

The Deceptive Sili Shake @Bicol Blends Cafe

 

There is the pili shake.  And the sili shake.  Just like the sili ice cream, the sili shake can be quite deceptive.  It starts off like your typical, standard milk shake.  But the finish! Oh, the finish…….will remind you to take your food “slowly” as our elders would often say when we were younger.  Chew slowly.  Drink. Don’t slurp.  Savor every bite.  Relish every sip.  And give your taste buds the chance to discern the variety of flavors each food morsel offers!  

 

And the baked stuff offered quite a variety.  Pan de Bicol Express?  This is a big pandesal stuffed with bicol express.  Don’t be fooled by the “mini-pan” description. It is a big pandesal.  Had it for breakfast along with my favorite brew.  Whoa! Did that perk me up! Understatement of the year.  I love the dough, just like the way I want my pandesal.  But the filling shook me up crazy with all those spices so early in the morning.   Besides,  it takes an acquired taste to welcome coconut cream-based fillings at this early hour.  I dare the brave ones to try it.

 

Pan de Bicol Express To Rev Up Ur Mornings@Bicol Blends Cafe

 

The second breakfast I had in Bicol Blends Cafe,  I tried the Pili Bread. Now this one is as mild as seeing majestic Mount Mayon first hour of the morning.  Pili nut abounds in Bicol and is a regular take-home or pasalubong item.  I love it.  I find it quite expensive but it is a nut truly our own, so flaunt it. Eat it. Buy it!  Many modern and fusion restaurants in the area have actually found ways to get that nut into their Bicolano cuisine,  accompanied by the unforgiving sili and drowned in the usual coconut cream. Mixed into their bread, or shaved like one would with almonds to garnish a pasta dish,  the taste of this pili nut is never obscured by the other flavors.

 

A Milder Treat To Start The Morning: Pili Bread @Bicol Blends Cafe

Bicol Blends Cafe

 

If we were spending a few more mornings in this place, I would have tried their Laing Offerings. Perhaps next time? For sure, I will be making a visit to this place not just for my sili and pili fix, but also for the cozy ambience and wifi connection the place offers.  Maybe I’d also try their Malunggay Ice Cream and Tinutong Ice Cream.  All those crazy ice cream flavors! For your info, you can dine in either 1st Colonial or in Bicol Blends Cafe and order from the menu of either since both are owned by the same family.  Nice 🙂

 

Craving for more Bicolano food?  Check out this blog. More yummy photos too.  Oh, take me back. Take me back! 

 

More? Just click the link above for more bicol dishes.

 

This is my entry to the Pinoy Travel Bloggers’ Blog Carnival for July 2011 with the theme “Awesome Food Experience While Traveling In The Philippines” hosted by Anton Diaz .  Bon apetit! 

 

Adieu, My Dear Friend


Imagine that
We’ve been friends for over 30 years
Through many sports
And many wine bottle corks.

There were dark breaks
Heartaches and pains
But will remember many good moments
All the laughter and cheers.


Of cheer we were never wanting
We certainly knew what fun meant
All those good times we had
Often carefree, other times careless.

Wish I hugged you tighter 
The last time I saw you
A more lingering buzz on ur cheek
To bid you adieu.

Rest now, my friend
You are in a better world now
Gone are the pain and sorrows
With our good Lord, you bask in joy ♥


And I thought that was the last sequel on my Bicol Holiday! 🙂

 

 

From CWC in Pili, Camarines Sur,  we first passed by 2 Churches in Naga before driving back to Manila.  A quick breakfast after, and we were on our way.  Having driven from Manila to Bicol via the Tiaong-Sariaya route, we chose to take a detour via the Tayabas-Lucban-Majayjay-Nagcarlan-Calauan route on our way back.  This way, we circled around Mount Banahaw before reaching the more  familiar  SLEX.

 

Truth be told,  I was itching to have lunch at Kamayan sa Palaisdaan  in Tayabas, Quezon.  The day of the Pahiyas Festival in  Lucban, Quezon , we passed by this eating place then crowded with far too many merrymakers.  The idea of dining on a floating raft appealed to me.  It should also be something novel for the grandchildren too.  You think I spoil them?  Naaah.  Just that I love keeping score of doing many “firsts” with them not-so-little-ones.   I look back at my childhood years, which are by and large kind of blurred now,  and remember mainly the “first times”.   So, let us just say I want to be remembered by these elves via these many “first times”.

 

Palaisdaan @Tayabas, Quezon

 

 

On full stomachs,  we decided to shake off some of those calories by visiting Kamay ni Hesus in the next town of Lucban, Quezon.   No, we did not walk all the way up.  Not enough energy for that.   But we stayed and walked long enough to feel a few calories lighter after visiting the Church ,  the souvenir shop , and saying our prayers.

 

Majayjay Church in Laguna

 

From Lucban,  we saw signs pointing left if one were to drive towards Majayjay, Laguna and pointing right if one were to drive towards Sta. Cruz, Laguna.   I made the decision to turn left.  And boy, was that one truly winding road around Mount Banahaw.  It may be the next town crossing from Quezon to Laguna, but forget Kennon Road.  Forget the “bituka ng manok” drive from Quezon to Bicol,  this is one LONELY drive towards Majayjay.  Lonely because we must have spotted only a couple of cars on the same winding road.  The public buses and jeepneys must have turned right, ei?  Well, they know better!

 

Inside Majayjay Church

 

Initially, we were awed by sights of Mount Banahaw and rice paddies laid out like mini rice terraces.  Not for long.  We were so eager to hit town after that lonely drive.  Ravines galore, I’m telling ya.   Never again.  You bet we all heaved a sign of relief when we found Majayjay Church, and most fervently said our prayer of thanks.

 

Beautiful Majayjay Church!

 

From Majayjay is another winding route towards Nagcarlan. Whoa, we are truly circling Mount Banahaw.   But this one’s more manageable.  Another 18th century church begging for an honest preservation job.  For sure,  these Churches are truly our heritage. No temples, no pagodas.  We have our Churches!  Ironically though,  I find half-hearted efforts , if at all, to preserve these heritage sites.  Breaks your heart.   😦

 

Nagcarlan Church

 

Thinking the Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery is right beside the Church,  we parked nearby.   Finding none, we asked the locals for directions.  Not too far away is the Underground Cemetery, another heritage site.  It was getting dark by this time and it started drizzling.   I didn’t ask the kids to go with me as I thought they’d find the place creepy.  Never mind that the underground crypt is a former secret meeting place among the revolutionaries then, and thus part of history.  With my nephew-in-law, I jumped out of the car and entered the “compound”.   There was a small chapel. No signs.  No directions. But we found a non-descript door leading to a stairs which we took to go to the underground crypt.  It is rather small, much to my disappointment.  Poorly lit,  it can certainly give you goose bumps.  We didn’t stay very long.  In fact, we had to hurriedly climb up as we heard some clanging sounds from the ground floor.   As it turned out,  it was 5 in the afternoon of a Friday night.   “Shop is closing”.   The caretaker, or gatekeeper was busy locking up the place for the weekend.  That , without checking if there was anyone down below?????

 

Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery

 

By the time we got out and ready to drive away,  we snapped one last photo of the Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery.  With that unconcerned gatekeeper putting the lock on the gate.  Imagine how it must be spending a weekend here.  Yay!  Now that would make for an interesting episode! 🙂

 

EXCUSE ME, DON'T LOCK US UP!!!!