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Category: Travel, travels

#2MADRID BLOG SERIES: Chocolate Con Churros

Filed under: Europe, Spain, Travel, travels — 9 Comments

February 25, 2012

The last time I was here was back in 2002. To this day, I still remember the chocolate con churros we had at the famous Chocolateria de San Gines. Having resolved that this is where my first Desayuno in Spain will be, my Day 2 in Madrid got me up and out of the hotel by 8:30am.

But first things first. I dropped in on a nearby Iglesia. 💒Guess what, I ended up staying for the 9am mass. Lovely way to start the day. Seated on the last pew, I was startled as a young boy sidled up to me and made guttural sounds. Turns out he was there by himself, and that he didn’t mean any harm. Just being playful. Like any other boy. 👼 Just the same, I moved up to the front pew after communion. Found this old man and another young boy — maybe aged 5 or 6 — seated in front of me. Found it so touching to see this caring boy prompting his grandpa to stand, sit or kneel during the mass. These scenes touched me so.🙏

So, on a happy note and on this cloudy day, ☁I began my journey to the center of Madrid. The blue line took me from Rios Rosas Station to SOL.🚃🚉 Kilometro 0 to be exact. I tried searching for the Tio Pepe signage but found none. Must be on that building now under renovation. I steeled myself from going to the El Corte Ingles 👢👗👜department store and instead walked along Calle Mayor in search of Plaza Mayor.

Back on Calle Mayor, I passed Museo De Jamon🍴 (my beloved pig!) and turned too many corners in search of Iglesia de San Gines. I was lost! Rested on a bench somewhere where I took this lovely shot of a white cross in a small plaza just off a corner store with a “fancy name”.

Though lost, I’ve got to say I had no worries. Everything looked familiar. Perhaps because we got lost too back in 2002. My, this chocolate con churros makes a determined glutton out of me.☕ Soon, I found the chocolateria just off the Iglesia de San Gines. Having existed since 1894, I wonder if any of our national heroes have tried breakfast here too.

For €3.70, you get a cuppa of hot, sticky chocolate and 6 pieces of churros to die for! I felt guilty leaving a couple of pieces and wished I had company. Four pieces of churros in one sitting is a lot for me. So I decided to “get lost” some more to deal with all the extra glucose and starch. Aaaaaaah, HAPPINESS. 😄😍😱

Tags: Chocolate, Churros, Madrid, San Gines, Spain

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#1 MADRID BLOG SERIES: From Lechon to Cuchinillo Country

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Filed under: Europe, Spain, Travel, travels — 5 Comments

Just before this journey into cuchinillo country, we took time to visit Cebu. Land of Lechon and Chicharon. I still have my backblogs on our visits to Boljoon, Dalaguete, Carcar and Simala, but these would have to give way to my first journal on our flight out of Manila into this land of cuchinillo, tapas, flamenco y abanicos. ✈

Still reeling from my hypertensive moments post-Cebu, I promised myself I’d stay away from my beloved pig. On February 22 we took our 11:40pm Emirates flight into Madrid via Dubai. All of 15 hours combined or so, plus 3 hours waiting in Dubai for the connecting flight. The 2 flights each served 2 meals which I happily munched through 4 in-flight movies. Didn’t even get the chance to read my book. Had a few winks, only to wake up and agonize over whether to have the Arabic Mezze or the Deli platter. And that’s only for breakfast!

Dubai airport is truly grandiose but lacks the character I found in Singapore’s Changi or Hongkong Airport. Perhaps I missed a few interesting corners, so I vowed to give it a second review on my homeward journey. As for Madrid’s Barajas Airport, it looks like any other as we breezed through immigration and got out in this bitter cold weather at 12:30pm! Immediately, I felt justified squeezing in my fleece vest into my 10 kilo trolley bag.

By the time we reached our NH Breton Hotel in the Chamartin area, I was lusting for a quick shower and jumping into my bed. The hotel is centrally located. Just off the corner is a bus stop and the Metro. Right in front of the hotel is a fruit store and beside it, a 24 hour convenience store. I promptly bought 4 big bottles of mineral water, a dozen oranges, bread, cold cuts, yogurt and vegetable salad. And some lip balm and skin cream too. My chapped lips and dry skin need some TLC after only a few hours out in the cold.

Having freshened up, I did a quick round up for a late afternoon walk and check-see of the metro station and nearby dining places. I was pleased to find that Rios Rosas Metro Station is just a short walk from the hotel. I took mental note of the Blue and Red Lines which will take me to the Sol and Retiro Stations. Also of the food outlets serving Desayuno (breakfast of churros con chocolate or cafe con leche) for only €2. This is way better than the €12 breakfasts available in the hotel! On lazy mornings, I can even make my own sandwich with the bread, cold cuts and vegetable salad I bought.

Self-Served Breakfasts!

All things looking up. Except one very important thing. Internet. Enjoyed the free 30minute wifi, only to be prompted to buy at €8.85 per day for unli-surfing. I made full use of the free wifi in the hotel. Refusing to pay the €8.85 daily Internet rate (who are they kidding?), I find it uncool to pay €80 for a room with no free wifi.

I am NOT cranky yet. I have my books. But these Internet withdrawal symptoms are getting in the way. Woke up early at 5am. Looked out the window from our hotel room. By 7:30am, it was still dark. Sunlight came at 8am. I downed 4 naranjas in one sitting just to shake off the blues. Got to find a coffee shop with free wifi. Tried 2, but no luck. The waitress said they don’t share the password with paying diners. And this is Madrid in the heart of Europe! Ooooops. There goes the temper. Gawd, I need another shower.

View From Our Hotel Window

Tags: Europe, Madrid, Spain

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No Tuki Today

Filed under: Food Trip, Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 2 Comments

February 18, 2012

Our group planned this 3 day, 2 night adventure in Cebu highlighted by a visit to Oslob. This small, heretofore vaguely known town in Southern Cebu hugged the limelight when it was reported that whale sharks — Butanding in Donsol, “tuki” in Cebu — were discovered. The “feeding” of these friendly gentle giants invited so much attention and excitement that we promptly packed our bags and flew to Cebu. This, even after the disastrous earthquake that rocked Negros and Cebu a few days before our flight.

We arranged for a van to pick us up at the new Harold’s Hotel in Cebu City at the ungodly hour of 4am. Having feasted on lechon the day before — the day of our arrival — I hardly slept because of a disturbing headache (which I later learned was actually triggered by a spike in my blood pressure) which deprived me of the needed winks.

We tried to catch some sleep in the van as we cruised towards Oslob on that 3 hour drive. Armed with my own life vest, life buoy and snorkeling equipment (all hand carried from Manila), we were ~~ready~~ eager when we arrived 7am in this remote village. The makeshift registration kiosk wasn’t that busy as it was a Thursday and it was just our group, a family, 2 Caucasian couples and a lone Frenchman arranging for a date with the gentle, krill-fed whale sharks.

But it was not to be. We waited another 3 hours, content with stories from this local who regaled us with her own adventures feeding the whale sharks. By 10am, we prepared to leave as the “spotters” who rounded up the area several times came back empty-handed. Disappointed. Frustrated. Deprived of an adventure dreamed of weeks before. Thank God I was in the company of good (and cheerful) friends with whom a day is never dull nor devoid of “adventure”.

Now, WHAT TO DO? The 3 hour return trip was marked by stopovers in Boljoon, Dalaguete, Carcar and Simala. Separate blogs to follow, as each has a story to tell. Tuki or no tuki, we certainly didn’t waste our day! When you guys go, better pray you meet them. Pray for good weather. It rained nearly the whole night and early morning of our visit. The whale sharks may have been sooo disturbed by the strong current and choppy waters.

Tags: Boljoon, butanding, Carcar, Cebu, Dalaguete, Oslob, Simala, Tuki, Whale Sharks

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So, Whatever Happened to Lapu Lapu?

Filed under: Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 10 Comments

February 16, 2012

So, we recall our history lessons and confidently state when the Philippines was discovered by Magellan. We remember too that Magellan was killed by Lapu Lapu in Mactan. Then WHAT?

Magellan's Cross

Our history lessons quizzed us on the dates, on who Magellan was, but failed miserably on educating us on the very first Philippine hero who resisted foreign aggression. Epic fail!

Magellan's Cross

Was Lapu Lapu such a nondescript character unworthy of a longer narration in many history books?

I bet many in my generation hardly knows this hunk from Mactan! Like me. But I intend to change that.

True, the Spaniards brought Christianity to our land. While I take my faith seriously, I have this gnawing feeling……..no, I am absolutely confident that the Spaniards who ruled our land for nearly 4 centuries had motivations more compelling than spreading the faith.

But I’m not about to dwell on these motivations. What interests me is to know exactly what happened to our first Philippine hero.

Sourced from the Net: Lapu Lapu Monument in Mactan

The little I know is that Magellan befriended some local tribal chiefs the likes of Rajah Humabon. Lapu Lapu strayed from the pack and refused to succumb to this foreign aggression, as well as to Rajah Humabon’s order to accept the foreign colonizers. Lapu Lapu organized his warriors as Magellan and his troops sailed to the island of Mactan. Allegedly, Rajah Humabon connived with Magellan to attack and subdue this “rebellious tribe in Mactan”. Fortunately for Lapu Lapu and his tribal warriors, the Spanish fleet, helped along by local “friendly” tribes, could not sail nearer to the island and had to wade ashore where they were met and attacked by Lapu Lapu and his men. The fleet’s cannons and firepower could not support the Spanish troops as the boats were at some distance from shore. Besides, Pigafetta, the chronicler, claimed the Spaniards were outnumbered by the Mactan “army” of Lapu Lapu. Pigafetta escaped with some others, as Magellan lay helpless and died. His body was never found.

Sourced from the Net: Lapu Lapu Killed Magellan!

And then what? Now this is where the legends abound. One legend claims Lapu Lapu left the island to live up in the mountains, far from sight. Was he hiding from his fellow Cebuanos who have so readily welcomed and accepted Spanish “visitors”? Of interest here is the report that Rajah Humabon, after Magellan’s defeat and fatal encounter with the local tribes, betrayed the remaining Spanish troops by trying to poison them in a feast he tendered for his European visitors. Oh well. That’s another story. But what of Lapu Lapu? Never seen by anyone ever again. Another legend is more dramatic and attributes superpowers to this Mactan chieftain. This legend claims Lapu Lapu turned into a stone (or a rock) facing the sea to forever protect the island of Mactan. How’s that for a legend?

How frustrating can this get. Any ideas, anyone? Admittedly, this story is so “bitin”. 😉

Lapu Lapu Statue Standing Guard Around The Valencia or Agrifina Circle

And how have we honored Lapu Lapu, our first national hero? Lapu Lapu appears on the official seal of the Philippine National Police. There’s the shrine in Mactan. A Monument in Rizal Park. And don’t forget the fish. Gawd, we didn’t even bother to declare a national holiday in his honor?

To be updated, as history unravels.

Tags: Cebu, Lapu Lapu, Magellan, Philippines

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Around The World at Terminal 21 (Bangkok)

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Filed under: Asian Holidays, Travel, travels — 3 Comments

February 2, 2012

Bangkok. Think Grand Palace. Wat Po. Vimanmek Palace. Chao Phraya River. Floating Market. MBK. Jim Thomson. Oriental Hotel. Wat Arun. Pat Pong. Khao San. Chatuchak.

Wat Po. Just one temple this time. We skipped the rest!

After as many as 7 trips or so here, I have yet to venture out of the capital. Well, I have visited Ayutthaya if that counts. But that was just a day trip from the city. I’m thinking Chiang Mai. Or even Phuket. Ko Phi Phi. Hua Hin. Kanchanaburi. Chiang Rai. Not this time. Another time, is what I keep repeating to myself.

Golden Gate Bridge Crossing Terminal 21's Atrium : Impressive!

Inside Terminal 21

So what else is new in Bangkok? Stuck in the city, we checked out the newest shopping mall in the capital. (Thanks to Bing who brought us here) Terminal 21. No, it is not within the airport complex. But it does look like one. Located at Sukhumvit 21 (hence, Terminal 21) this shopping mall is connected with the BTS Asoke and MRT Sukhumvit Stations.

Carribean-themed floor is all about the beach and lighthouse!

Working on the theme of travel, Terminal 21 allows you to “travel” from San Francisco, USA to Istanbul, which is just an escalator away. As we entered the complex, we were greeted by this red and white lighthouse right smack in the middle of the atrium. This ground floor is where the supermarket is, replete with its Carribean beach decor. The signature shops are largely on the Paris and Rome-themed floors. Higher up, one finds the London-themed floor. You can’t mistake it, what with the lifesize red bus parked at some corner there. The Tokyo section is also quite popular. Many ladies had fun posing beside the sumo wrestler statues you find on that floor. 😉

A London Bus Parked in Terminal 21?

And then there’s Istanbul. And the fancy restrooms! No visit is complete without stopping by the modern restrooms. Think bidet, heated seat cover, air blower, etc. Cool! What’s more, there’s wifi all around the complex. So bring your laptop and check out the many food outlets here. Grab some lunch. Just take time to decide what to have. With all these different themes, it can be a chore choosing what to have for lunch. Happy time, happy thoughts to all!

Be warned. Old hags can have fun too!

An Array of Dining Choices Inside Terminal 21

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Tags: Bangkok, Shopping, Terminal 21, Thailand

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The 108 Stupas @Dochula Pass in Bhutan

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Filed under: Asian Holidays, Travel, travels — 2 Comments

January 26, 2012

Just an hour away from Thimpu. We passed this site and drove another 1 .5 hours to reach Punakha just a couple of days before. No chance to get off the car to count the stupas. But you can bet your bottom ngultrum (Bhutanese currency) that they do number 108. No more, No less.

There you go. All 108 Chortens.

Dochula Pass sits right along the road on the way to Punakha from Thimpu. It was built to honor the casualties of a recent war resulting from a conflict with rebels from the South who wanted to secede. The King himself personally led an army of about 7,000 volunteers to drive out tens of thousands of rebels. Not one to glorify war nor their victory, the King had this monument built instead to honor both the dead soldiers and dead rebels from the conflict.

I can sit here all day. But do throw me a blanket!

At 3,150 meters above sea level, you can ID a number of mountains from the Himalayan Range on a clear day. But I’m telling you……… even on a cloudy day, it is still a worthwhile trip to make it high up here. Just a short walk from the Pass, have a cup of steaming coffee or tea at the Dochula Cafeteria. In our case, we had lunch. I am not exactly a big fan of Bhutanese cuisine, but one thing’s for sure. They grow their vegetables and grains organically. The mountain rice tastes better. The dumplings filled with cabbage and cheese dipped in some spicy sauce called MOMOS are so simply made, and tastes “healthy”. I passed on the fish, knowing that Bhutan is landlocked and assuming that the fish must have been transported all the way from India. The vegetables were cooked just as simply. Nothing fancy, really. But no worries. Altitude has a way of making you feel funny. It also affects one’s appetite, so I hardly complained.

Just a short walk to watch a cultural performance.

Just a few hundred meters from the Pass, we walked along a dirt path lined with prayer flags to watch a cultural performance. Since the dance routines have not been watched by the King yet, no photographs were allowed. Such is the rule in this land. Seated in an open-air site in 6 Celsius temp, we watched in amazement how some half-naked dancers can stand the cold. Mind you, the performance lasted well over an hour! I am borrowing some photographs here to give you an idea of Bhutanese dance routines.

Where's the BLANKET????

Tags: Asia, Bhutan, Dochula Pass

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Hotel Celeste: A Pleasant Staycation

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Filed under: Don't Skip Manila!, Food Trip, Travel, travels — 6 Comments

January 25, 2012

If you are a sucker for hotel pleasures, you can forget the ***** prime hotels and check out the boutique hotels in and around the city. We have tried the 5 star hotels on those occasions when we wanted to celebrate. But this is the first time we tried a boutique hotel. And we’re not even celebrating any special occasion. The fact that it is just a few blocks away from home made us feel like we were on a “staycation” with absolutely nothing on the agenda but to enjoy a lovely room and savor “dining in” .

HOTEL CELESTE. Pasay Road Corner Makati Avenue.

Hotel Celeste is right at the corner of Pasay Road (now Arnaiz Road) and Makati Avenue near one of the entrance gates to San Lorenzo Village. The lobby is small, but not cramped. First off, I noticed how well-appointed the interiors are. From the lobby is the hotel’s dining outlet – Celi’s – where the decor adds much to one’s dining experience. Dined there at least twice and found the food superb without burning a hole in my pocket! Those raring to discover new dating venues, this is it.

Celi

They even have set meals for P550-650 per pax which includes appetizer, soup or salad, entree, dessert.

Impress your date!

I am told that the owner of Hotel Celeste personally supervised the interior decor of this boutique hotel. The furniture are all custom-built to her tastes. Her passion, her taste, her class is all over the place. The Lobby. The Bistro. Each of the lovely rooms. So elegant, without being stuffy.

Suite 407

No 2 Rooms Are The Same. I should know, as we checked most rooms before deciding on one.

Now........this bath tub looks pretty neat!

No two rooms are the same. The attention to details is very evident. From the lamps, the chandeliers, the bedlinen, the appointments, even the bath tubs. I wouldn’t mind spending a weekend here!

Hotel Celeste. The new dating venue. Lovely. Charmingly Quiet. Romantic. Classy.

This is not a sponsored blog. Just ramblings from a satisfied customer. 🙂

Such attention to details!

Tags: Boutique Hotel, Dating, Food Trip, Hotel, Hotel Celeste, Makati, Makati Hotel

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Food Porn in Bangkok

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Filed under: Asian Holidays, Food Trip, Travel, travels — 10 Comments

January 19, 2012

Following a week in Bhutan, we chose to spend 3 nights in Bangkok. Stubborn us, we were hoping to visit Ayutthaya. No luck. After the floods, we decided against it and instead concentrated on this lively city. And its food 😉

I can't get enough of this mango salad!

Served at Novotel's Airport Hotel.

I’ve been to Bangkok several times in the past when I was still working. I have been to Ayutthaya myself, not too long ago. But my friend is visiting for the first time and she longed to see the old capital. Perhaps another time. After Bhutan, we were just too happy (and tired?) to be with old friends to relax and indulge ourselves. And how we did! On our way to Bhutan, we slept a night at Novotel Airport Hotel as we needed to be up early for the next day’s flight to Shangrila. Homeward bound, we broke our journey with 3 nights at the Pullman Hotel where we found our Manila travel buddies waiting for us.

With good old and not so old friends 😉

Reunited with Old Friends, Meeting New Ones

Our couple-friends and a niece with her 3 friends from Manila joined up with us in Bangkok. An ex-secretary now based in Bangkok hooked up with us too. The ex-sec I haven’t seen in over 20 years! Happy to see her after all this time. And very proud of her too!

Hot Pot Dinner With Fellow TravelBloggers Peter and Mari

It was also a chance to meet up with fellow bloggers Peter and Mari from my TravelBlog community. Peter and I are both Moderators in TravelBlog and feel we’re “old friends” after reading so much into our lives and the adventures we blogged about.

Those Thais Truly Excel in Food Presentation, don't they?

The Fish Is A Pretense At Eating Healthy 😉

Food Pornography

What a party. Which makes dining such serious business for this group. After all, Bhutanese cuisine pales miserably in comparison with Thai food. Well, come to think of it, I never complained about food in Bhutan — perhaps I even found it insignificant to deserve any mention — and that’s saying a lot coming from me. Looking back, my friend and I survived on mountain rice, Emma datse (chilis cooked with cheese, very spicy!) and momos or dumplings with cabbage and cheese fillings. I surprised myself (and my friend) when I ordered a burger and pasta at our hotel on the eve of our departure from Bhutan. You can guess what happened to that plate of spaghetti, right?

Bhutan's Momos or Dumplings Filled with Cabbage and Cheese Dipped in Chili Sauce! We survived on these!

Having convinced ourselves that we were “starved” in Bhutan, we looked at every Thai dish on the table as our well-deserved reward. Let the photos speak for themselves. But really, more than that, this last leg of my recent rip was a celebration of friendship.

You may also want to check out our visit of the famous Oriental Hotel by the banks of the Chao Phraya River where we tried Pierce Brosnan’s favorite Thaijito. Just click on this link.

Never Say NO to Desserts. Wherever. Whatever. No Regrets.

They Call it Thai-Jito. A favorite drink of Pierce Brosnan. Only at Oriental Hotel.

Tags: Asia, Bangkok, Food Trip

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Family Playcations!

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Filed under: Asian Holidays, Travel, travels — 1 Comment

January 8, 2012

I love my family. We all live in a condominium building where space is gold and where we feel cramped as the kids grow taller and the adults grow wider 😦

Over time, we spilled over 2 more units in the same condo building but share THE SAME SQUARE dining table I bought when I was still living alone. How we fit or take turns at the dining table is a practiced skill!

And so family playcations is a tradition in this family. Summers and Christmas breaks are popular holiday dates for us, but we’re one family who also make good use of long weekends.

We took a vote and came up with this list of top playcations for us. Thought I’d share it with you as suggestions for your next family adventure.

#1 CRUISING TOPS THE LIST

To this day, our 3day, 2 night cruise sailing out of Singapore for Melaka (Malacca, Malaysia) holds truly fond memories for adults and elves. Royal Carribean’s Legend of the Seas had this $306 per pax, twin-sharing promo rate which we grabbed. All 5 meals and snacks included!

READY TO SAIL! Kids board Royal Carribean's Legend of the Seas

#2 HONGKONG DISNEYLAND AND MACAU

The FIRST family playcation out of the country is of course nothing less than memorable. When the elves were 5 and 2 visiting Disneyland (Los Angeles, USA) for the first time, they were too young to appreciate it. This time around, they knew exactly what they wanted, and how many “teacup spins” they needed!

From HK Disneyland to Macau. What a horrible ferry ride!

#3 NEW YEAR’S EVE FIREWORKS IN HONGKONG

We were back the year after. The fireworks at the Avenue of the Stars fronting the lovely HK Harbour is the highlight of the New Year’s Eve revelry, but the dinner prelude was just as exciting. No mercy was our mantra, as we stuffed ourselves with Peking Duck and other Chinese dishes at the Star Cafe. Just as memorable was walking with the thick Chinese crowd in the middle of the road at 2am to reach our hotel.

HONGKONG DISNEYLAND

#4 SSSSHHHH…..KIDS GO AWOL IN SHANGHAI

Shelly and I flying in to Shanghai from a month-long trip in Turkey and Greece. The rest of fam flying in from Manila. What a reunion!

The Bund. Shanghai, China

#5 WORLD EXPO IN SHANGHAI

Can’t resist this. It’s the closest we can get to a world tour. Very educational for the children. Very satisfying for the adult gluttons. 🙂

World Expo 2010 in Shanghai, China

#6 BUTANDING ADVENTURE

It was a weeklong holiday. A road trip. We booked only for our first 2 nights in Donsol, Sorsogon where I brought the family to experience this awesome animal encounter. After that, we sort of felt our way through looking for places to stay in Legazpi City and Naga.

ONE BIG HURRAH AFTER THE FIRST BUTANDING ENCOUNTER! YEHEY!

#7 ALL 12 ABOARD FOR A JOURNEY THROUGH ILOCANDIA

Yes, 12. My family and my friend’s family. We flew to Laoag, then cramped ourselves into a van, and then a jeepney around Laoag and Vigan. Food Trip to the max. Gee, now I miss their Pinakbet Pizza!

Walking out of Malacanang of the North. And yes, we were 12 in the group!

#8 ROADTRIP TO BAGUIO

Not our “usual” Baguio trip. This time around, we explored the lesser-known destinations and relished the surprisingly enjoyable vegetarian joints in this city. Even the elves loved their “kamatis (tomato) pasta” in Oh My Gulay Resto!

Taken at Bencab Museum Garden.

#9 NEW YEAR IN BORACAY. WHY NOT?

Who’d dare argue against spending New Year’s in the lovely island of Boracay? We spent all of 5 days here. What a great relaxing way to welcome and start the new year!

SUN AND SAND TO WELCOME AND START THE NEW YEAR IN BORACAY

#10 A NEW DISCOVERY: CLUB BALAI ISABEL

Again, we were lured by the promo package offered by this lovely resort along the shores of Taal Lake in Talisay, Batangas. A weekend that’s really value-for-money. The rooms have 2 big-sized beds, the resort has 3 swimming pools, a fish spa, food is good, service is excellent, and THE VIEWS! C’est magnifique!

GOOD FOOD, GOOD SERVICE, MAGNIFICENT VIEWS!

Tags: Asia, asian holidays, Family, Grandchildren, holiday, Philippines, playcation, Travel, travels

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The Female Monks of Zilukha Nunnery (Thimpu, Bhutan)

Filed under: Asian Holidays, Travel, travels — 3 Comments

January 5, 2012

Zilukha is the “biggest nunnery” in Bhutan, yet I would never consider it huge by any standards. But it may have the best location. It is perched on a promontory overlooking the Tashichhoedzong or Thimpu Dzong and its surrounding golf course. From the roadside, we walked up a wide dirt path to reach this nunnery with no gates, no doorbells, no guards. Just sleeping dogs.

The Path to Female Monkhood?

Female Monks? Yes, many women — some young girls, even toddlers — from poor families enter the nunnery. The ones I saw at Zilukha Nunnery in the Drubthob Goemba were likely as old as 70 and as young as 4. I was honestly surprised to find the young ones, and initially thought they were orphans under the care of the nuns.

Zilukha Nunnery

Our tour guide explained that some of these children were left behind by their poor parents. A refuge from extreme poverty. Yet I wasn’t exactly sure it is a refuge. The nuns we found here can certainly do with some comforts. Having seen the magnificence of the Dzongs in Paro, Thimpu and Punakha, the Zilukha Nunnery appears almost like a disheveled garage or storage room in one of these dzongs. The shrine is very small, and the nuns pray and chant their mantra in a narrow space where a giant prayer wheel occupies easily a tenth of the entire room. The nearby one-storey building serves as their sleeping quarters and I can imagine these nuns must sleep in cramped quarters there.

The Living/Sleeping Quarters of the Zilukha Nunnery

Entrance To The Prayer Room

Once we stepped inside the Prayer Room, we felt almost guilty barging in as the nuns were busy praying and chanting. The elder of the nuns allowed 2 photos of them doing their spiritual chores — chanting mantras and spinning prayer wheels. The area is a bit cramped. Two lines of nuns face each other while a giant prayer wheel is spun by one of the younger, stronger nuns. The 4 year old happily , yet quietly sat on the lap of the grey-haired nun. This nun with greying hair, looking so undecided between chanting and chewing her betel nut, while caring for the toddler-nun. I spotted red-stained teeth, and some chewed bits threatening to drip on the sides of the older nun’s mouth.

Just Two Photos Inside the Prayer Room.

Two Lines of Nuns Facing Each Other in This Narrow Corridor.

I wish I was able to take a better shot of the grey-haired nun and the toddler nun. I dared not appeal for a 3rd shot, guilty as we were to have arrived at a sacred hour. As young girls enter the nunnery to escape poverty as well as to gain education, I wonder if some of them feel “forced” to take this option. Sure, they are here to seek “enlightenment” but I am more inclined to think they are here or were sent here to escape from the harshness of a difficult, deprived life.

This Is The View From Zilukha Nunnery. Not Bad!

As with the monks, people seek spiritual guidance from these nuns. As such, they spend their time gaining spiritual knowledge to prepare them for this religious work. Some of them may have felt deprived in their early life, but they all look forward and appreciate the newfound social status to be gained from being a nun. In a country like Bhutan where Buddhism seamlessly blend with everyday life and the national character, monkhood has its place.