Category: Travel, travels



Beyond Puerta del Sol, past Plaza Mayor, is this most charming mercado like no other. I wasn’t looking for it when I found it. And that was on my Day 2 in Madrid. Since then, I would always drop in whenever I’m in the area. Just love it here!

 

 

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Each time I drop in, the place is jampacked! Noisy, crowded, so lively, so Spanish! I don’t know how these Madrileños manage to gesture with their hands while holding a wine glass and a croqueta or Quezo on the other hand. And you know what I mean when I say “gesture with their hands” , or with their shoulders! Think only the Italians come close.

 

 

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No chairs, no stools. You and your friends around a cocktail table and drink, eat like there’s no tomorrow. Tried the paella, the croquetas, jamon and some Quezo Manchego. Next time, I’d try the yogurt. Saw a photo of Prince Charles and his dear Camilla trying out some favors in that stall.

 

 

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And all that seafood from fried boquerones and sardines to steamed and grilled oysters and squids. Plus don’t forget the chupitos, baby eels, and so much more — in tapas or racion sizes! Nom Nom Nom. This is my neighborhood. I feel happy just people-watching here. That, while munching, makes me forget to take more photos. But these would do, won’t they? I’m busy ☺

 

 

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Errr……lastly, go and have that drink. And I don’t mean just sangria.

 

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The first time I went to the Almudena Cathedral, I wasn’t expecting much. After all, Madrid allegedly pales in comparison with other major cities around Spain in terms of antiquity. In plain terms, it means Madrid’s sacred destinations are not that “OLD”.

 

 

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Dedicated to the Virgin of Almudena, the construction of the cathedral began in 1883 but was completed a century later in 1993. The name Almudena comes from Almudaina, Arabic for “wheat-store”, because there was one close by.

 

 

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The story goes that when the Muslims were about to conquer Madrid, the Madrileño Christians hid a statue of the Blessed Virgin Mary behind a wall to spare it from being abused and profaned by the conquering Muslims. When King Alphonsus VI regained the city, the wall miraculously crumbled, revealing the statue of our Lady.

 

 

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What the Church may have lacked in terms of architectural credit and historical significance, this Neo-gothic edifice made up for with its Neo-Romanesque Crypt which houses a 16th century image of the Virgin of Almudena. Kind of creepy inside the crypt, helped along by the background music as one moves from altar to altar, crypt to crypt. As I walked OVER some graves of presumably distinguished Madrileños, adorned with potted plants and flowers, I couldn’t help wondering if this “real estate” is priced highest on a per square meter basis in this corner of the world. (Disculpe, for this irreverence)

 

 

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If you happen to be in the area of the Palacio Real, make sure to drop by the Cathedral, and then the Crypt. You can also buy some religious souvenirs on your way in or out, like what I got (that’s the photo of the 16th century painting of the Virgin of Almudena). Then before heading home or back to your hotel, you have the option to spend the rest of the day exploring the gardens around the Royal Palace or walk back to Puerta del Sol, passing the Opera. If you’re too tired, then take that metro ride from the Opera Metro Station.

 

 

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Palaces, castles and humongous cathedrals fascinate every Filipino. 🏰The grandeur, the pomp and pageantry associated with royalty is simply not our reality. Even Malacanañ Palace is really a token 2-story palace compared with what one finds in other parts of the world.

 

 

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Palacio Real literally translates to “Royal Palace”, much like Real Madrid (of football fame) means “Royal Madrid”. 👑All of 2,800 rooms covering a floor area of 135,000 square meters, it is THE largest palace in all of Europe. So…. Buckingham Palace, move over!

 

 

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The present King has chosen to live with his royal family 👸elsewhere (Palacio de la Zarzuela) on the outskirts of Madrid. Thus, the State-owned Palace is only used for official or state ceremonies. At the time I visited, the Palace was closed owing to some State ceremony. Though I missed viewing the interiors of this architectural wonder, I joined many others – Madrileños and tourists alike – waiting through all the pageantry. Changing not only of the guards, but also of the horses! And my, those guards are all cuties, I kid you not! Take it from this over-the-hill hag….. I hardly use those words to describe MEN. But I must confess that I do find King Juan Carlos a HUNK very, very charming!

 

 

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And look at these horses! What is it called — the Spanish Riding Academy? But that’s in Vienna, near the Hofburg Palace. Confused? The Riding School in Vienna was so named because the “noble” horses originated from the Iberian Peninsula. I know zilch about horses but I have read that the Spanish and Arabic horses rank up there among other breeds. No wonder they rub elbows (or butts?) with royalty. ☺

 

 

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The Palace is just a short walk from the Opera. I took the metro 🚉 up to Opera and walked on the right side of the royal theatre till I reached the Plaza de Oriente, a well-manicured garden on the side of the royal palace. I also didn’t miss the chance to stroll along the Sabatini Garden where I felt I intruded on many a romantic trysts. 💗 Oooooops!

 

 

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Here’s another favorite haunt of our national hero while he was here in Madrid. Can’t blame him. Parque de Retiro, which used to be exclusive to royalty, is such a pleasure to be in anytime of day. Just take the Linea 2 (red line) metro 🚉 to Retiro and it’s right there as you exit out of the station.

 

 

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Now, I wonder how many times Rizal went on dates in this park. Remember, JPR lived a frugal life here in Madrid and a paseo around Parque de Retiro would have been a cheap but romantic way to take out a señorita.

 

 

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These days, you’d find street musicians 🎺🎷🎸🎤 and illegal vendors (selling their wares on laid out rugs)👜💼👢 around the park. It was a bit of a challenge to take a good photo of the pond and the monuments without these characters. And then there are the lovers. 👫💑 Of all kinds.

 

 

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Sundays are crowded in Parque de Retiro where locals enjoy just strolling around the gardens, 🚲biking, renting boats 🚤 to row around the pond, drinking their cafe con leche ☕ or cafe cortado, shopping for “smuggled” bags 👜peddled by vendors on blankets or rugs laid out on pavements, skateboarding, or simply shooting the breeze while listening to street musicians. 🎤

 

 

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JPR must have been so inspired by this ex-royal garden that he named his place of exile in Dapitan as “Mi Retiro.” This is also the place where an Igorot woman died in the dead of winter while “on exhibit” in the Exposición de Filipinas in 1887. The exhibit meant to showcase Philippine artifacts, art works and botanical specimens which included “sample Philippine tribe peoples” like the Igorots, Manobos and Negritos. You can just imagine how JPR criticized Spain for its violation of Filipinos’ human rights which resulted in the death of this Igorot human specimen, while other tribe “samples” contracted pneumonia due to the bitter cold.

 

 

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Tsk. Tsk. It’s stories like these that make me ever so grateful for the sacrifices and bravery of our national heroes. As a reminder of what they went through as against the freedoms that we now enjoy, one can’t help but lament how much we have forgotten. Truly, we as a nation need to reconnect with our past so we do not fail to take things for granted and more importantly, to regain our national identity and pride as a people.

 

Aaaaahhhh…… Enough said. Or written. 📝


Three men fascinate me. Jose Rizal. Ernest Hemingway. Juan Luna. I suspect it is the wild side and mystery about each of these men that attracted me to them. 😉Like you admire them one second. And wish to mother them the next sec.

 

 

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Back home, Juan Luna’s “Spoliarium” in the National Art Gallery is the highlight of any afternoon spent at the Museum. I’m glad this masterpiece was given ample space to view the obra maestro in all its glory. When my family went on a trip to Ilocos, a visit to the Luna Shrine was most definitely the highlight of that family holiday. When I heard there would be a lecture on Luna and his Art at the GSIS Museum, I thought it was a good idea to combine the lecture with a viewing of Parisien Life, that most controversial GSIS acquisition. When I learned Luna’s “Battle of Lepanto” hangs in the Senate Hall in Madrid, I knew I couldn’t leave Madrid without viewing it!

 

 

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I sent an email to the Madrid Senado’s website if I may be allowed entry. 🇪🇸 There was an exchange of emails between me and Mercedes who was most kind and accommodating. We fixed a date and time, then she put me in a group of visiting Spanish ladies and apologized that the “tour” would be in Spanish. Bueno!

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Of course, no photographs were allowed. We were ushered inside a hall with 4 murals of Spanish painters. One 1859 mural almost tempted me to cheat on Mercedes and take a photo with my iPhone. “La Coronacion de D. Manuel Quintana” (who is he?) by Luis Lopez Piqueo, huge at 428 x 561, is slightly bigger than Juan Luna’s Battle of Lepanto (350 x 550) which hangs on one wall along a narrow corridor. Mercedes was kind enough to open the meeting room across Luna’s mural just so I can have a good view of what I came for. She spoke lengthily about Juan Luna and why I’m so interested in seeing it. Unfortunately, she spoke in Spanish while all the distinguished-looking Doña Victorinas were eyeing me with new interest. 😊

 

 

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Having seen what I came for, Mercedes invited me to stay on to visit the Senate Hall itself where she said I can take photographs. It looked more like a theatre! Then, we were led to the Library which was really, really awesome. There was this man reading old periodicals while we ladies roamed about with oohs and aaahs (a universal language, I soon learned). The lighting was bad if you ask me, but there were reading lamps. I sneaked a photo of the very Spanish-looking gentleman inside the library just as we were led out to visit another hall in the Senado. This time, it’s a more modern hall. On the way out, there were again paintings of contemporary Spanish painters. I saw one of Joan Mìro. And I dare not cheat on Mercedes again as she reminded everyone that photography is not allowed in these areas. Which is fine — I’m happy with my snapshot of the Spanish Señor inside the Library. 😉

 

 

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As I thanked Mercedes for a lovely one hour tour of the Senado, she handed me books as souvenirs. Now, isn’t that muy bien? Ha sido un placer en Madrid Sendo. Muchas gracias, Mercedes!

 

 

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They do it for a living. I dare not say “begging artists” simply because they don’t. They offer their artistry, and one is encouraged to “donate” out of appreciation. Mind you, there is pride in their work too.

 

 

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Right in Puerta del Sol, you’d find lots of them buskers. In fact, you may be standing right next to one. They may appear like stone, marble or wooden statues…….until they start poking at each other, bow, or turn towards you.

 

 

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There was one busker I saw almost everyday, in various places. Once at Puerta del Sol. The next time in Plaza del Oriente near Palacio Real, the 3rd time as I was waiting for my metro ride!

 

 

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More than just song and dance numbers, some of these artists play mime, display motor skills with their skateboards or roller blades, make beautiful music with crystal glasses, dress up like Hollywood celebrities, strum their guitars or sing opera songs. You find them in plazas, theatre areas, parks, inside the metro stations, or even inside the trains !

 

 

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Then, of course, there are those who are not as creative……

 

 

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I have earlier blogged on my first desayuno (breakfast) of churros con chocolate here in Madrid. Where else, but in Chocolateria San Gines. There, I reminisced about my first taste of the churros con chocolate “to die for” back in 2002. I remember telling my nephew then that when I grow old, I would love to put up a coffee bar or Chocolateria like this where a corner table will be reserved for me….. much like the owner — an old man and his dog we met back then.

 

 

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When I blogged about getting lost tracing my steps back to Chocolateria San Gines, and actually learning (the hard but delicious way) how easy it could have been to find the place (just off Calle del Arenal, walking from Puerta del Sol), a couple of friends suggested I also try the churros con chocolate at Valor. I did. More than that, I also tried a boxful of Valor chocolates!

 

 

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After more than a couple of weeks setting up house here in Madrid, I finally found time to check out this other chocolate shop. I was surprised to find that it is so near Puerta del Sol. Well actually, much nearer Plaza Callao. A metro ride to Plaza Callao, walking towards Postigo de San Martin, it was delightful to find Chocolateria y Bomboneria Valor.

 

 

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So, what’s the verdict? Admittedly, Valor is “better located” as Chocolateria San Gines is actually in an alley behind the Iglesia San Gines. Surprisingly, I also met 3 Filipinas waiting on tables in Valor. Now, some say Valor’s interiors are better, especially as one can look out to a livelier street scene in this corner off Plaza Callao. True. But I do like the old charm of San Gines.

 

 

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The chocolate in Valor is mas sabroso. But I prefer the churros of San Gines! So if I were to choose between the 2, I would really rather get lost searching for Chocolateria San Gines. So there. ☕☕☕

 

 

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It started with Dr. Jose Rizal’s monument (built in 1996) in Avenida de las Islas Filipinas. Then a friend reminded me of Viva Madrid, the national hero’s favorite restaurant while he was still in university here. Finally, my search for 👨 Juan Luna’s award-winning paintings led me to Hotel Ingles where Filipino patriots met to celebrate his and Felix Resurrecion Hidalgo’s winning the gold and silver medals for their obra maestros.

 

 

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It was a good walk 👣 from Puerto del Sol, away from Calle Mayor and along Carrera de San Jeronimo. The Net 📲 came in so handy with this guide on which metro line 🚉 to use, where to get off and 👣 walking instructions on how to reach Viva Madrid 🍴Calle Francisco Fernandez y Gonzalez, 7. Love it! My very own GPS. 👌👏

 

 

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Soon, I found Viva Madrid. Right behind Teatro Español. I checked out the menu and was secretly hoping there is a “Rizal’s Favorite” or something. A drink? Or a dessert? I found none. 😞 But I found a marker.

 

 

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Just off the corner from Viva Madrid is Los Gabrielles, a music bar then where Filipino propagandists met regularly. I think this venue, described by Rizal in a letter to one of his sisters as having beautiful murals made of ceramic tiles, now hosts flamenco dance performances. 💃👯💃

 

 

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A few steps more, on the same Calle Echegaray, is Hotel Ingles, 🏫 venue for the banquet tendered in honor of Juan Luna and Felix Resurreccion Hidalgo when they won in the Madrid Exposition of Fine Arts in 1884 with their masterpieces “Spoliarium” (now at the National Art Gallery in Manila) and “Las Virgenes Cristianas Expuestas Al Populacho (Christian Virgins Exposed to the Populace, now at the Metropolitan Museum of Manila). In this banquet, our national hero — who’s said not to have eaten the whole day for lack of funds — gave more than a toast to honor Luna and Hidalgo. More like a speech. A speech so full of bravado and spunk, where Rizal frontally attacked the religious establishment. Perhaps a preview of the Padre Damasos and Padre Silvas in his Noli Me Tangere.

 

 

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This same hotel is also where our Filipino patriots met for 🎇 🎉 🎆New Year celebrations, or where they usually had their cenas or late dinners. For sure, they didn’t venture far. You see, Hotel Ingles and Los Gabrielles are just likely 30 steps away from each other, and Viva Madrid is just off the corner — perhaps another 30 steps. All in the same neighborhood! And all behind the lovely Teatro Español 🏢🇪🇸…. Errrr, another 30 steps.

 

 

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Part 2 of Rizal’s Favorite Haunts 🏃👣🚶in the making. Watch this site!


Can you blame us? Who goes to Cebu and not try its lechon and chicharon? If the best Cebu lechon comes from Talisay (I know, I know, I’d get lotsa flak writing this), then don’t argue with me when I say the best Chicharon hails from Carcar. Chicharon pa lang, ulam na!

 

 

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It’s more fun in the Philippines, indeed! But make sure you do Visita Iglesia in Saint Catherine of Alexandria Church to spare you from hypertension resulting from cholesterol overload. At the time we visited, the parish was closed. Thus, we appreciated its beauty — styled like most Greek Orthodox churches with onion-domed bell towers — from the outside where we also found many statues of saints adorning the fence around the church.

 

 

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Right beside the church is the Carcar Museum. Yes, a Museum! Well actually, an American-styled dispensary years before and now converted into a lovely Museum complete with various illustrations tracing its history in this heritage capital of the province of Cebu. The Carcar Rotunda is also as American as the Carcar Museum. This white gazebo stands right before the church and the museum, which together comprise a most charming plaza.

 

 

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There was a museum guide who showed us around. The American-era dispensary was actually built in 1929 during the term of Don Mariano Mercado as Mayor. Among other landmarks are the municipal pool behind the Dispensary building, the Carcar Rotunda and the Rizal Monument. If I had my way though, I would replace the statue of Don Mariano with something more “cheerful” or “leader-like”. Call me irreverent but I thought the statue displayed Don Mariano’s shy, even tentative side. 🙂

 

 

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Where to buy Chicharon? No worries. They’re everywhere! Inside the malls, outside the malls, along the streets, inside your bus or cars! The prices are no different though from the crunchies you can buy back in the city just an hour’s ride away. It is not known though that Carcar was once what Liliw is to Laguna, or Marikina to Rizal (now Metro Manila). Somehow, this 17th century shoemaking industry faded from the scene as competition set in and other industries flourished.

 

 

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Just off the Plaza, and visible from the porch of the Carcar Museum is the town’s oldest house. Owned by Don Florencio Noel, the house is still lived in and is fondly called by Carcaranos as “Dakong Balay” which literally means “big house”. Now declared by the National Historical Institute as a heritage house, the house remains unaltered but lovingly restored and preserved by fourth generation descendants of the Noel family.

 

 

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If you have been to Lourdes in France, you would be reminded of such Marian pilgrimage site when you visit Simala or Monastery of the Holy Eucharist in Southern Cebu. Run by Mongha ni Maria (Monks of Mary) who tend the gardens and built a mini-falls within the compound, the church has also since been a pilgrimage site.

 

 

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This church in Sibonga, Cebu drew crowds when the miraculous statue of Mama Mary shed tears of blood. Though not validated by the Church, this phenomenon drew many faithfuls to the site.

 

 

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I tweeted about this trip to Cebu and some tweeps advised me to go visit Simala on our way back to the city. It’s just slightly off the way and in between our Dalaguete and Carcar stopovers, but since we hired a van for the day, it worked out well. We felt good making this stopover. And there was even a Mass when we visited.

 

 

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Hard to believe a church of this size was built in this corner of the province. The story goes that funds were provided by faithfuls who were miraculously healed here. If you are a first-time visitor like we were, you’d be awed by the grandeur of this church. Not just in the exterior appearance with the curving staircase and footbridge wrapped around the church, but in the interiors as well. We waited till Mass was over before snapping these photos.

 

 

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So, next time you are in these parts of Southern Cebu, make time to do this pilgrimage. All you need to bring with you is your faith and perhaps, countless petitions for divine aid.