Category: Travel, travels



April 9, 1942. Every Filipino veteran remembers the date. It was the day Filipino and American soldiers surrendered in Bataan to the Japanese. The Fall of Bataan. The Surrender. I remember the line “Sumuko na ang mga Amerikano sa Bataan” (The Americans already surrendered in Bataan) in that unforgettable movie “Oro, Plata, Mata” by the cinema genius of a director, Peque Gallaga. So poignant in its truth, so piercing in its pain and hopelessness.

 

 

 

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More than 45,692 Filipinos and 9,300 American soldiers who dragged their feet during the Death March from Bataan to this final destination suffered more indignities here. Camp O’Donnell it was then called, then Capas Concentration Camp where 30,000 POWs died from April through June 1942 while under detention.

 

 

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We honor our fallen heroes here. There is a central walk leading to the peace monument — the Obelisk, the focal center of the shrine. Around it, marble walls bear the names of the fallen, many forgotten over time.

 

 

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Looking up at the Obelisk, we are reminded how much blood was shed in defense of our independence. At the very least, we owe it to them to preserve the peace and to live in harmony and unity as Filipinos regardless of creed and religious convictions.

 

 

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A visit to the Capas National Shrine after a trekking adventure in Mt. Pinatubo is recommended. No detours. The Shrine is just a few minutes away and right along the same rad exiting from the Capas meeting point where you board the 4×4 jeeps.

You may also wish to check out my blog on Mount Pinatubo. Just click on this Pinatubo.


Turumba or Tarumba? When you get to Pakil, Laguna either in search of Lanzones or woodcraft or Jose Luciano Dans’ century-old paintings, you can’t miss Pakil Church — official residence of the Virgen de Turumba. But what is Turumba? That was the first question we asked Brother Erning, the Church Marshall.

 

 

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Nuestra Senora de los Dolores or Virgen de Turumba

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Interior Shot. Altar with 14 icons behind in separate niches, veiled in purple satin this Lenten Season.

 

 

It was Lent that Friday we visited. All 14 icons in separate intricately carved niches behind the main altar, veiled in purple satin. Brother Erning drilled us on the Turumba or Tarumba Legend and toured us around the majestic San Pedro de Alcantara Church, sometimes referred to as the Church of the Nuestra SeΓ±ora de Los Dolores or Virgen de Turumba. Built in 1767, the Virgen has been enshrined here since 1788 when it was fished out of Laguna de Bay. The legend goes that no one could lift the image till the parish priest came to bring it to this Church followed by locals singing and dancing in glee. The trance-like dance was called Turumba. Or Tarumba — literally meaning “natumba sa laki ng tuwa” or “tremble in great joy”. It is also the sound of drumbeats during the processions marking the feast of Turumba culminating sometime in September of each year.

 

 

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Chapel of the Virgen de Turumba

 

 

I’ve done my research before coming here. But Brother Erning’s version is soooo much better. He regaled us with stories about the Virgin and brought us to this tiny, lovely Chapel where the image is enshrined. He reminded us to ask permission from the Virgin before taking any photos. Then he proceeded to tell us how a magical cloud floated over the 18th century church as US bombing squads hovered above during the Second World War. How many believed the Virgin saved the town with this miracle which inspired many to dress the Virgin’s image in intricately beaded gowns. The count to date per Brother Erning is 50,000 gowns donated by the faithful! (My earlier research pegged it at only 700) The Virgin changes gowns every 2 weeks, and each worn gown is cut up in small patches and distributed to the faithful. We were fortunate to go home with patches of these embroidered and beaded gowns.

 

 

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The Corridor Leading to the Collection of Gowns Donated By the Faithful

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50,000 Gowns! Only to be cut up in small patches after they’re worn.

 

 

Brother Erning is a legend himself. His love for the Virgin, this Church and his hometown is legendary. But he’s got a couple of stories which floored me. The first was how Pakil was spared from Japanese invaders who occupied neighboring towns. His story goes that the Japanese Army was not drawn to this town because of fear of being attacked by ants. Say that again? A.N.T.S. as in Lanzones ants! The other story has to do with Jose Luciano Dans’ 200 year-old painting of “Langit, Purgatoryo (or Lupa?) at Impyerno“. Heaven, Purgatory and Hell. When I asked Brother Erning why the painting depicted ONLY WOMEN in hell, his candid answer was to point out that the figures included both men and women except ……. that Dans didn’t want to be irreverent by painting men with their “hanging ornaments”. How’s that? Plausible, yes, but nevertheless a rib tickler. πŸ™‚

 

 

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Inspired by Dante’s Inferno? This is Luciano Dans’ Langit, Lupa (or Purgatoryo) at Impyerno. Read below for a most interesting story. πŸ™‚

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Brother Erning, the Church Marshall.

 

 

Before we left, Brother Erning brought us up the choir loft and bell tower. This time, he got us listening to some recent happenings in this church. The hit and ongoing TV series or teleserye “Juan Dela Cruz” shoots all its church and plaza scenes here. In fact, Brother Erning stars in some episodes! He reminded us to watch the next few episodes where he’s featured before we climbed down and marched out of the Church. In particular, he mentioned the scene where Juan dela Cruz battles the vampires! Really, we just love these stories and we love Brother Erning even more!

 

 

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Check out that Pieta painting. Looks so much like the famous and treasured Michelangelo’s sculpture, right?

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One last look at Pakil Church. Location shoot for the hit teleserye “Juan de la Cruz”.

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The rural town of Pakil, Laguna. 4th stop after Calamba, Pila and Paete in a roadtrip around Laguna de Bay. Try it! Very doable for a day trip south of Manila.


We should have started earlier. But NOT on empty stomachs. We had our fill by the time we left our meeting place in Don Bosco Pugad’s Coffee and Saints. It was also mid morning by the time we hit the road to visit the lake towns of Laguna around the Bay. You may consider it a Visita Iglesia, if you like. Three churches and a few other sites. Started with Pila, Laguna. Now off to Paete, the woodcarving capital of the country. (Chisel is “Paet” or “Ukit” in Tagalog) Lanzones Country. And birthplace of the yoyo.

 

 

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Taka or Papier Mache. Just like in Angono, Rizal.

 

 

The art of TAKA (paper mΓ’chΓ©) seems big in this town. Much like what I saw in Angono, Rizal — another town rich in art, history and culture. It also happens to be the political campaign season so there were TAKAs around and along the main road leading to the beautiful church. Men and women figures sculpted out of paper peeking out from windows and balconies. By themselves, they looked interesting. But what really got our interest was the Paete Church with its lovely baroque architecture with floral bas reliefs.

 

 

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Saint James Church in Paete, Laguna

 

 

The PaeteΓ±os have preserved their centuries-old tradition of woodcarving. Inside the Church honoring Saint James, you’d find religious icons and centuries-old paintings by PaeteΓ±o artists including those by Jose Luciano Dans. It is said that this art flourished long ago that one shouldn’t be surprised to find locally-crafted masterpieces in churches, palaces and museums in other parts of the world. Besides, the same craftsmanship is displayed on buffet tables on many cruise ships as descendants of these PaeteΓ±o woodcarvers found another niche in ice sculpting! Can you beat that? Wood or Ice, there is no shortage of carving skills from this community.

 

 

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There is no record of it but PaeteΓ±os believe that the yo-yo which is a Philippine invention actually began in Paete. I wouldn’t be surprised. The art galleries cum dining places we wanted to visit along Quesada Street were both closed, but we’ve seen enough woodcarved religious and not-so-religious icons to conclude that the art continues to flourish here.

 

 

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And then there are the 200 year old paintings of Jose Luciano Dans. This PaeteΓ±o was commissioned by the Spanish friars to paint St. Christopher. Dans’ rendition of a St. Christopher with Oriental features didn’t meet with the friars’ approval and so the mural was replaced by another painting of the same saint with European features. The 2nd painting was on wood and installed over the mural. The discovery of the original mural was fairly recent when restoration work had to be done on the “European” saint. As it turned out, the mural was better-preserved.

 

 

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The original Dans painting of Saint Christopher with Oriental features.

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The 2nd Dans painting of Saint Christopher with European features.
Sourced from the Net.

 

 

We actually failed to see the 2nd painting since it was taken down for restoration works. We also failed to buy any Lanzones. Worse, the 2 art galleries cum dining areas along Quesada Street where we intended to have lunch were both closed. Hungry past noon, we ended up in Bengas, a local eatery serving home-cooked food. No pretensions, no frills. Just simple meals like lumpia and Pancit ulam. The latter is a very Pinoy thing. Like noodles are everywhere in Asia, but methinks only Filipinos eat noodles with rice. So it’s not surprising why PaeteΓ±os came up with Pancit Ulam.

 

 

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Cape Quesada

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Pancit Ulam from Bengas. Yes, you eat the pancit with rice.

 

 

While in Paete, we hardly met any other tourists. Foreign or Local…… Zilch! A pity. No wonder the local carvers are seeking better pastures carving ice instead. Mind you, ice carving is actually more demanding. Unfortunately, each creation melts into insignificance unlike woodcarvings. Sigh. 😦


It’s another heritage town just a couple of hour’s drive south from Manila. Easily, a day trip that’s easily combined with neighboring towns in Laguna just as equally rich in art, culture and history. Many pre-Hispanic treasures enshrined in the Pila Museum attest to Pila being one of the earlier settlements in the country.

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Municipio

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17th century Pila Church

 

 

We were surprised to find this little-known Plaza Mayor in this old town. The colonial influence is evident here where a 200 year-old church, a Municipio (Town Hall), and several ancestral, heirloom houses and old trees line the Plaza. The National Historical Commission has declared Pila as a historical landmark in the league of Vigan (Ilocos Sur), Silay (Negros Occidental) and Taal (Batangas). It’s a wonder very little is known of the place and that this historic town is not top of mind among local tourists.

 

 

 

 

Mercifully, Pila was spared from the bombing raids run by US troops back in 1945 to flush out the Japanese Army. The Church, the Convent, and many of the old buildings and houses of illustrados and prominent families clustered around the Plaza remain standing to this day.

 

 

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Who Knows Tomas Pinpin?

 

If you ask me, I only know it as a street in Binondo where a favorite and oldest restaurant is located. Yes, I’m talking of Toho Antigua Panciteria. (Another restaurant, Ambos Mundos, claims to be the oldest restaurant, but this is another story) I bet I’m not the only one in this sorry predicament.

 

So, who is Tomas Pinpin? This eminent Filipino is responsible for the country’s very first Tagalog dictionary. He ran a printing press in Pila, Laguna which printed the first local dictionary as early as 1613. Of interest is the fact that this printed material pre-dates the very first printed book in America. Truly, Pila has so much to be proud of!

 

 

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From History Lessons To Amazing Race To Teleserye

 

 

Several scenes from the Amazing Race were shot here. Of late, the teleserye “Be Careful With My Heart” likewise shoots scenes here for this big TV series hit. In particular, the “San Nicolas” hometown of the leading character “Maya” is actually this quaint town of Pila, Laguna. Just off a corner from the Plaza is “Pards Chibugan” — the local eatery business ran by Maya’s family. For sure, these put Pila back on the map as many locals visit the place for its TV or teleserye value.Β 

 

 

Quite a sudden takeoff from all that history bit. πŸ˜‰

 

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About time we consider this listing. Makes life so much simpler.

Visa-Free Countries for Philippine Passport Holders:

ASIA
Brunei – Not Required for stay up to 14 days
Cambodia – Not Required for stay up to 21 days
Hong Kong – Not Required for stay up to 14 days
Indonesia – Not Required for stay up to 30 days
Israel – Not Required for stay up to 90 days
Laos – Visa can be obtained upon arrival up to 30 days
Macau – Not Required for stay up to 30 days
Malaysia – Not Required for stay up to 30 days
Maldives – Visa can be obtained upon arrival up to 30 days
Myanmar – Visa can be obtained upon arrival with pre-approval letter required
Nepal – Visa can be obtained upon arrival up to 150 days
Palestine – Not Required for undefined number of days
Singapore – Not Required for stay up to 30 days
Sri Lanka – Visa can be obtained upon arrival up to 30 days
Thailand – Not Required for stay up to 30 days
Timor Leste – Visa can be obtained upon arrival up-to 30 days
Vietnam – Not Required for stay up to 21 days

SOUTH AMERICA
Brazil – Not Required for stay up to 90 days
Bolivia – Not Required for stay up to 59 days
Colombia – Not Required for stay up to 180 days
Costa Rica – Not Required for stay up to 30 days
Ecuador – Not Required for stay up to 90 days
Grenada – Visa can be obtained upon arrival
Haiti – Not Required for stay up to 90 days
Montserrat – Not Required for stay up to 90 days
Peru – Not Required for stay up to 90 days
Saint Vincent and the Grenadines – Not Required for stay up to 30 days
Suriname – Not Required for stay up to 90 days

AFRICA
Cape Verde – Visa can be issued upon arrival
Central African Republic – Not Required for stay up to 7 days
Comoros – Visa can be obtained upon arrival
Djibouti – Visa can be obtained upon arrival up to 1 month
Eritrea – Not Required for stay up to 30 days
Ethiopia – Visa can be issued upon arrival
Madagascar – Visa can be obtained upon arrival up to 90 days
Mauritius – Not Required for stay up to 60 days
Morocco – Not Required for stay up to 90 days
Seychelles – Not Required for stay up to 30 days
Somalia – Not Required for stay up to 21 days
Togo – Visa can be obtained upon arrival up to 10 days at Lome airport
Zambia – Visa can be obtained upon arrival

PACIFIC ISLANDS
Cook Islands – Not Required for stay up to 31 days
Fiji – Not Required for stay up to 120 days
Micronesia – Not Required for stay up to 30 days
Nauru – Visa can be obtained upon arrival
Nieu – Not Required for stay up to 30 days
Palau – Visa can be obtained upon arrival up to 30 days
Pitcairn Islands – Not Required for stay up to 14 days
Samoa – Not Required for stay up to 60 days
Tuvalu – Visa can be obtained upon arrival up to 30 days
Vanuatu – Visa can be obtained upon arrival up to 30 days

EUROPE
Andorra – Not Required but only accessible via Spain or France that require visa.
Azerbaijan – Visa can be obtained upon arrival up to 30 days
Kosovo – Not Required for stay up to 90 days
Liechtenstein – Not Required for stay up to 90 days
San Marino – Not Required for stay up to 21 days

This data is updated as of February 2012. Visa requirements may change in the future so it is advisable to double check also before making your travel arrangements. You would also need to check whether a transit visa will be needed if you will travel through countries that require visas for Philippine passport holders. For those territories where you can get your visa upon arrival, make sure to check the required documents prior to arranging the trip.

HAPPY TRAVELS EVERYONE!!! πŸ™‚


CPR. Naaah, not the medical/first-aid procedure. Long before initials became the norm in addressing bosses, the entire Philippine nation had CPR. CARLOS PeΓ±a ROMULO. My generation still remember those history quizzes back in Grade School where United Nations, Gen. MacArthur’s landing at Leyte and liberation were associated with CPR. As when I remember my father’s generation refer to him as Mr. United Nations. Always, with Filipino pride.

 

 

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Sourced from the Net. This photo inspired the bronze statues representing the Leyte Landing of General Douglas MacArthur, then President Sergio Osmena, then Brig. Gen. Carlos P. Romulo , etc.

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From the staircase to the private function room (good for 80 pax) on the second floor, this portrait of CPR would greet the visitor.

 

 

Mr. United Nations, impressive orator, diplomat, soldier, Filipino patriot, journalist and author. An achiever at a very young age, he was no ordinary teenager. Wet behind the ears, he was already a reporter at age 16, a newspaper editor by age 20, and a publisher by age 32. He is also the co-founder of the Boy Scouts of the Philippines. During the Japanese Occupation, he made sure the Philippines was not forgotten, chronicling the plight of Filipino fighters, his voice heard by as many Americans while he agonized just thinking of his family back in the Philippines. But more than all these, his legacy extends to this Filipino restaurant — Romulo’s Cafe.

 

 

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Bangus Pate. Bangus is milkfish, flaked and made into a pate that are served as appetizers with Crostinis.

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This Tuna Sisig is ideal for vegetarians and vegans.

 

 

You can start and end with the appetizers and NOT feel cheated. The Bangus PatΓ© and Tuna Sisig are must-try appetizers. No pork in your Sisig? No liver pΓ’tΓ©? I’m telling you. You won’t miss your pork and duck liver. Filipino ingenuity at work here.

 

 

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Crispy Squid. Oh this is a favorite!

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Fish Rolls

 

 

And there’s the crunchy squid and fish rolls. I can down these appetizers with a cup of steamed rice and wear a smile all night. All 4 appetizers so savory, and healthy. No guilt pangs. YET. πŸ˜‰

 

 

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Fried Tilapia

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Pinakbet with Bagnet. A Northern Philippines (Ilocano) dish.

 

 

We TRIED staying healthy, but not for long. The deep-fried, splayed Tilapia served with 3 sauce dips is both a gustatory and aesthetic delight. The BAGNET in the Pinakbet stole the scene from the shrimps adorning the veggie dish. Too tempting. It broke all resolve to have a Meatless Friday — of course, others were dead set early on to break the rule πŸ˜‰ — and so came the Crispy Pata and the Lengua .

 

 

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Can’t stay away from meat? Try the Crispy Pata.

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Lengua. (Ox Tongue)

 

 

Good company, good food, good service and a place so charming. The high ceiling, black-and-white motif, and tastefully-designed interiors all combine perfectly to highlight the framed photos hanging on the walls. Each one a lesson in history. CPR giving a speech — this little man standing tall amidst prominent Americans and other foreigners in the audience. CPR in a family photo, in earlier times and late in his years. CPR doting on his grandchildren. What a legacy!

 

 

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Suman Con Latik. A very Filipino snack food with a twist!

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Framed photos such as these are each a lesson in history. CPR is very much a part of the Philippines’ wartime and post war history.

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A doting grandpa, more than anything else.


Food is an integral part of my travels and yes, you may say food defines many of my adventures. The passion to search for certain kinds of food is serious business. Going to great lengths for a food particular to the area builds the excitement as much as checking out the local attractions. So, here’s a compilation. It is a living, breathing list as I intend to add more as I get busy celebrating life. A few inches more on the waist, on the hips won’t hurt πŸ™‚

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EATING AROUND THE PHILIPPINES

It all starts at home. While the Philippines has national dishes like adobo, sinigang, Kare Kare and lechon, there are regional cuisines that are must-try eats. Check these out.

Philippine Cuisine

Regional Cuisine: Northern Philippines

What and Where to Eat in Laoag and Vigan

As Spicy As It Gets in Bicol

What To Eat In Batanes

Eating Frogs and Crickets From the Philippines’ Culinary Capital

DINING101 in AFRICA

Boma Dinner and the Exotic Meats of Africa

South African Cuisine

BUEN PROVECHO EN ESPAΓ‘A!

Eating Around Spain

Best Churros Con Chocolate

FOOD PORN IN BANGKOK

EATING AROUND BHUTAN

PHΓ” & MORE IN HO CHI MINH

BEYOND NASI GORENG IN INDONESIA

FOOD COMA IN KOREA

SUBJECT TO ADDITIONS, NO DELETIONS.


Thought I’d line up my blogs on “walks and drives” around Manila for those who are interested. In many of these walks and drives, a good 4 hours may be enough. Likely less if you just want to concentrate on a certain area. You can walk around, hop on and off your car or some public transport, combine 2 trips and plan a good lunch in-between, or simply visit a Museum to linger for the next couple of hours. If you’re with children, I’d most certainly advise planning a good meal after 2 hours or so. Attention span and all, you know. A good meal never fails, and I’d usually have the first leg as the “more serious walk through history” and make sure the 2nd post-meal leg involves some window shopping (a.k.a. “Street desserts” and other sweet munchies) or less serious history stuff or simply more open spaces.

 

 

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HERITAGE SITES/HISTORICAL LANDMARKS

Quiapo!

Say Hello to “Mi Ultimo Adios”

San Agustin Church in Intramuros

Four Hours To Waste in Manila

Some Photographs From Manila

Universidad de Santo Tomas (UST)

Baluarte De San Diego in Intramuros

Paco Park

 

MUSEUMS

Dummy Goes To The National Museum

National Art Gallery: Searching For More Lunas

Up Close: Luna and Hidalgo

Hidalgo and Luna: Genius Has No Country

 

CEMETERY TOURS

A Preview of the Cemetery Tour: Wait Till The Shoe Lady Dies

The Old (and Dead) Rich of La Loma

A Nearly-Forgotten Panchong in North Cemetery

 

SUBURBIAN MANILA

Angono: Art Capital of thePhilippines

Silangan Gardens and Pinto Art Gallery

Antipolo’s Suman, Kasuy and Pan Lechon?

 

 

CHINATOWN & Other sites

A Walking Tour of Binondo

Binondo Walk With Kids

The Street Vendors Of Manila

Harbour Square in CCP Complex

 

 

Urban Escapades

Weekend At The Pen

HOTEL CELESTE: A Pleasant Staycation

 

 

PINOY DINING 101

Just How Do You Eat Alagao?

What To Feed Your Guests (Part 1)

What To Feed Your Guests (Part 2)

Vieux Chalet in Antipolo

Pinoy Ice Cream? Check This Out!

 


 

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I was on my 10th week in Madrid. Yes, the blues getting in the way this early in the morning. Coffee in hand, I’d find myself looking out the window. As I allowed homesickness to creep in, various morning activities are framed behind the glass windows. You could almost hear the beans grinding, smell the coffee brewing, silvers clinking to make those bocadillos (sandwiches), and feel those hurried daddy hugs as toddlers see them off to the door.

 

But this one’s different. In one of those window frames, I find this cat. Across the space between us, we looked at each other. He must have been busy watching others beating the “morning rush” from his window. As I was. It’s interesting how many of them do nearly the same thing at the same time every morn.

 

By the time I boarded the train for another one of those day trips, I was still thinking of the kitty…..when I spotted something unusual on the train floor. Lying asleep was this young man’s best friend. Both buddies in dreamland. They looked tired. They were still doing their REM when I passed them to disembark.

 

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What a sweet life? These animals live without the complications humans have. No budgets to keep. No compulsion to inventory for future needs. They hunt or get only for their daily needs. If they do store for a rainy day, it is for their own consumption. Not for business. Unlike humans who love to enrich themselves. I wonder. Do they feel envy? Is there a rich dog or a poor cat? Or would those adjectives apply only to their masters? And if there is a rich dog, does he flaunt his wealth the way some humans do?

 

In Alcala de Henares, I spent a whole morning munching through a whole bocadillo, nipping on thin manchego shavings, sipping my cafe con leche while watching the storks busily minding their nests. The whole episode gave me a stiff neck, looking up much of the time. But my snooping exposed me to a valuable lesson in life.

 

 

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The storks here in Alcala de Henares, a university town just a few minutes train ride from Madrid, is a whole community. Their nests differ only in location (some high up atop spires, others in lower arched windows, still others in between steel bars of a crane) but never much in terms of size.
Almost uniform in height and width, the nestlings look uncomplaining and comfortable. Mom and Dad storks fly in and out, presumably with something to feed their young. Some simply standing by, looking like they’re waiting for the first nestling to attempt a first flight. As they wait, they don’t seem to mind much else. How can they stay perched on a ledge for hours on end?

 

 

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Patience. Many of us struggle to tame our temper. I am not sure about this. Nor do I have the proper academic background to draw any conclusions. But obviously, humans can pick up a few lessons on temper management here.

This is my entry to the Weekly Photo Challenge: Unique.


It’s been a while since December 2011. I have longed to write about this but a few trips and blogposts got in the way.

 

 

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Mini-monks. That’s what I call them. Without those robes though, they’re just kids goofing around!

 

 

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And there were the young school boys. Don’t they look adorable wearing the “gho”?

 

 

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We walked through some villages and met many young boys. More boys than girls, actually. This one’s a charmer. Took many shots of him as he willingly posed for the cam.

 

 

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Met a few girls. Just a few….. Cuties. Now, why do little girls love wearing pink?

 

 

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Travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living. – Miriam Beard