This January 2026, we spent 5 days in Siargao and for 2 whole days joined tours which included lunch. Had a long list of dining options sourced from kin and their young friends. Honestly? I was surprised there’s a long list. Knowing the surfing capital of the country didn’t welcome food/restaurant chains, I assumed most of my meals will either be in hotels or in family-run mom & pop eateries. Of course, I heard of a few which became popular and set up branches in Makati like “Shaka” and “La Carinderia”. But we’ve tried quite a few and really enjoyed our dining experience. I hope this list helps some of you who are planning to visit Siargao. I have my own for my next visit — to cover more ground!
La Carinderia CEV Ceviche & Kinilaw ShackKermit’s PizzaShaka + X Bar in Cloud 9 BoardwalkEl Chapo: Tacos, Birria & TostadasBravo Beach Resort Kanin Baboy for LechonHalika Artisanal GelatoJorene’s Halo Halo & Maiz Con HieloIsland Hop Tours include boodle fight lunch consisting of generous servings of grilled meat, seafood, noodles and seaweeds.
Many I’ve missed out of those listed by others: Bebie’s Barbecue, Naga, Las Palmas, Warung, Roots, Lamari, Bar Ciao, Harana, St Thomas Coffee, Manu, Whitebeard, Harana. Let me know your experience with these dining spots! Bon appetit 🏝️
Sure, I was so looking forward to the beach life — sun, sand, beach chairs, swim in clear waters, ice cream melting as the sea breeze sticks more sand on your shoulders and back, sea salt on your hair, all that seafood plus some beach cocktails. Piña Colada, anyone? Enjoying every bit even if I passed up all chances for surf lessons (how the hell do I even get up on the surfboard?), diving off and into lagoon waters (can’t even balance walking towards the end of the diving board!), snorkeling in open sea (so hard to even walk to shore against the current), diving off the boat to swim or just treading water. And please, let’s forget paragliding. Too extreme for me.
Secret BeachCoconut View Deck
We joined a land tour but found out the tour included beach spots and visits to lagoons and tidal pools. Was happy to experience Siargao sans commercial food chains like those burger and pizza joints, and to find the island teeming with lush forests and vegetation. When I was 15, I drove my father’s motorbike and had a nasty accident. Half my face bandaged, only liquid nutrition for some weeks. Luck was on my side — no broken bones, no permanent facial scars, just a bent coccyx bone and a bad memory. With that, any scooter rental is out of the question. We joined the tours in a van filled with 10 pax. Lunch included and this was in a local carinderia where locals ordered pork sinigang and longganiza while the foreigners figured out how to eat the crablets and spider conch shells.
Boarded a small boat to reach Sugba Lagoon before it closes for renovation/maintenance. Scenes from the Diving Platform
The highlights of this land tour is the Sugba Lagoon where one can dive into cool waters, paddle board, kayak, snorkel, or just simply swim. We visited the last day before the lagoon area closes for a month of upkeep. The boat ride to this spot took more than a half hour, passing waterways hemmed in by tiny verdant islands . My eyes feasted on all this greenery. From here, we hopped back to our van for the ride towards the Magpupungko Rock Pools. I stopped midway and just contented myself with a view of the natural tidal pools among limestone formations. It was a steep rocky descent towards the tidal pools and I wasn’t willing to risk a slip. But my niece went on and happily took a dip and swam in the pools while I watched seated on a rock.
Magpupungko Tidal Pools
Magpupungko Rock Pools
The tour took nearly a day. The van fetched us from our hotel at 7:30am and brought us back by 4pm or so. But not before bringing us to Maasin River. Here you can go kayaking but after all the activities, not everyone has enough strength beyond posing for photos at the diving board. 🤣
This land tour is so worth it, even if it’s more expensive than the island-hopping tour and more so than doing it on your own with rented scooters. We enjoyed all the stops especially the Sugba Lagoon boat ride and visit. Lunch could have been served better in the area of the Magpupungko Rock Pools where there are beachfront eateries, and errrr more interesting desserts like the buko halo halo. But we’re good. We got good value for the P2,100 we paid for each person. By the time we were driven back to our hotel, we just dropped our bags and went in search of desserts. These deprived ladies found one near the church. Homemade ice cream, halo halo and maiz con hielo. But nearer our hotel, another shop prides itself for its artisanal gelato. So there. 😋😘🥰
Booked this 3 island hopping tour visiting Naked Island, Dako and Guyam Islands. Joined a group of 24 pax, half of which are foreigners and the rest locals. First off was Naked Island, which is actually a sandbar. Welcome, sunshine! No trees, no shelter. Just a sizeable oval shaped sandbar off the southern shore of Siargao, with just the sand and the sea to enjoy. A slather of sunscreen here and there but I get a sense no amount of skin protection would work. Naked Island is NOT a nudist island. The sandbar itself is “naked” as no single tree stands here. One hour here is all you need. Its proximity to Siargao Island makes it a top island hopping destination especially when you have limited time.
Naked Island. A treeless sandbar off the southern shore of Siargao.
In between the island hops, there was also a chance to jump off the boat, swim and go snorkeling. The current was quite strong though so only those confident with their swimming skills did. I stayed on the boat with the young Filipinos who are here on holiday break from their Qatar jobs. These guys made me laugh so much as they readily entertained us with their funny song and dance numbers that provided comic relief. Whoever you are, thank you guys. The “skit” where one acted like a flight attendant had me in stitches! And all that laughing made us grow really hungry and ready for the boodle fight. This is lunch, Filipino style. The spread was quite abundant — very generous servings of fried tuna, grilled pork belly, noodles, shrimps, spider conch, sea grapes or seaweeds, sautéed vegetables, mangoes and watermelons.
Noodle lunch in Dako Island
The boodle lunch was served in Dako Island where there was also enough time to swim, play volleyball or even to spread a beach towel for a quick nap on the sand. In Guyam Island, there are beach bars and some music and fruit stalls. More swimming or more naps or more volleyball games. By this time, the boat passengers have grown relaxed, friendlier and chattier. We were lucky to join a fun group. (Trivia: I was the OLDEST in the group. That means the boat crew paid more attention to my safety and welfare 🤣 )
We tried our luck in Cloud 9. But no surfers. No fiery orange nor pink hues across the sky from the Cloud 9 boardwalk. We waited until twilight and that’s when we decided to enjoy our piña colada, pizza and mango smoothie. The sky was woefully unstained by vibrant colors but that’s ok. It’s only our first whole day. The stray dogs and pearl vendors kept us company, relentlessly trying to make us succumb. I’m pretty good resisting this retail therapy but my niece is another matter. She’s a magnet for vendors of any kind!
Cloud Nine BoardwalkTwo lone surfers just before sunset
January must be off season. I was told it rains a lot the first month of the year. It rained when we arrived but soon enough, the sun was out. Late in the afternoon, the surfers must have gone to bars or for some nutrition as we only found a couple with their boards. The boardwalk wasn’t crowded at all. And there were empty chairs facing the waters from Shaka and X Bars where we picked up our aperitif.
Mango Smoothie Cereal Bowl from ShakaX Bar’s Piña Colada+ Pizza
The following day, we set out for AFAM Bridge. Yes, AFAM as in “A Foreigner Assigned In Manila”. The sunset warriors are all here! Some AFAMs bearing beer bottles which they uncork while watching the sun set. Local vendors plying their wares — pearls, shirts and some handcrafted souvenir items. The local boys offer their services to take photos, amusing foreigners with their “human drone” tactics. We tried looking for dining places nearby but found none interesting. Then we remembered our hotel driver mentioning “Jorene’s Homemade Ice Cream & Halo Halo” so we promptly hailed a tuktuk to get there. Thought we’d end the day on that sweet note but there’s this Italian-Filipino restaurant called “La Carinderia” right across our hotel. Actually, I first tried La Carinderia when they opened a Makati branch. Good food, good service, and the most charming couple owners. So yeah, we ended the day with that famous Mama’s Lasagna plus Siargao Salad which I swear is really good. Chef Stefano and Miss Po also trained their staff very well. Good simple Italian – Pinoy dinner.
Sunset. AFAM BridgeJorene’s Maiz con Hielo and Halo Halo topped with homemade ice cream. Mama’s Lasagna & Siargao Salad from La Carinderia
I know. There were other options but we didn’t want to miss out on this spot’s ceviche and Kinilaw offerings. What’s the difference, you ask? Both are raw seafood dishes cured or cooked in acid. They only differ in the souring agents used. The Filipino or Pinoy version uses coconut or sugarcane vinegar mixed in either onions, ginger and chilis. Some versions use coconut milk but that’s optional. Ceviche is a Latin American dish that uses citrus as souring agent – – like lime or lemon. In CEV, they do both equally good! Stars of the show are the Santa Fe Kinilaw, Pacifico Ceviche and Santa Monica Ceviche. Please don’t ask why they were named as such. We had 2 appetizers — the classic Kinilaw (with cucumber, coconut milk, lime, ginger, onions and salted black beans — and the fish spring rolls.
Mango Smoothie + Santa Fe kinilaw with shrimps, pomelo and pickled green mango
Although every item we ordered was cooked in some souring agent — except only for our drinks and fried spring rolls — we are glad we ordered what we did. Enjoyed every single dish. Without bias, I’d still go for the Filipino version though as Santa Fe kinilaw (with shrimps, pomelo and raw mango) is the bomb. So xxxx@@!! good! You can almost touch the freshness (the catch of the day they used in the ceviche and classic kinilaw was tuna). And we likewise enjoyed our mango smoothie and ginger calamansi ale.
Santa Monica Ceviche with tuna, pumpkin mash and fried octopus. Classic kinilaw
If you are headed towards Siargao, don’t miss this place. And be sure to make reservations at least a week before. We did. Yet the only available date was the day after our arrival, so moved back our island tours. Totally worth it! We would have gone a 2nd time but the next available slot was already past our departure day. There were not too many locals dining while we were there. Must be because it isn’t really cheap, but I’d still say the dishes are quite reasonably priced. So with the cocktails. So yes, I’d bet on this 👍
Enjoyed my Calamansi Ginger Ale with the fried fish rolls and kinilaw appetizersOnly 1 dessert: Twix Bar
Not to forget ….. there’s only one dessert: Twix Bar. Don’t skip this. It allows a good finish after all those vinegary, sour dishes.
It’s been 25 years since I retired at 47. Technically, I continued to work though not on a regular 9-5 desk job. Rather,I had 2 meetingsa month. Anything more and I’m “overworked”. In between the meetings, I traveled, spent time with my friends, went to church and simply had a wonderful time celebrating life. Through it all, I ticked off destinations from a long list, searched for exotic dishes and adventures and promptly prepped for the 2 monthly meetings that sustained my lifestyle. I’m putting all that behind me now. Absolutely no more work. Nailed the last chapter of my career. No more graphs and financial reports to review. No more special zoom meetings that consumed more thinking hours. No more document deliveries for signature. The simple act of stepping down and out was liberating. Trips now need not go around the scheduled meetings and more importantly, there was no compelling rush to cover as much ground as possible. When I quit my full-time job back in 2001, I appreciated the relaxed pace already. But it is an even more elevated sense of freedom now. As in, no more worries. No more anxieties. No midnight or early morn zoom meetings while I’m abroad on a different time zone. Absolutely no stress now. No rush. Let everything take its natural course.
No rush. Love that. The luxury of time. Hours in a bookstore just browsing around, coffee breaks that are truly “breaks” and not just caffeine nutrition, sweetly poring over restaurant menus without being fussy if the dishes took awhile before being served. Traveling without an agenda, or leaving the task of crafting the itinerary to a younger set who has a long list to tick off. No rush. Every minute celebrated. Off with the travel lists and must-do’s. Just go. Explore or linger. Savour every second. I learned there is actually an art to waiting. It is when one pays more attention to details that a more authentic sense of appreciation blooms. A deeper sense of gratitude. Would you rush through a scrumptious meal, or even a good cup of brew or an excellent book? It parallels being mindful. When every single detail matters. A rushed, busy life takes that away. Where I sit now, I refuse to multi-task. Done that when I was way younger. I’d rather focus on a single item now and preserve the thoughtfulness attached to it.
Bravo Beach Resort in Siargao.
So time rolls by. Whether in the city or in the beach, it is living without the rush. It is life. 🥰
And just like that, we only have a couple of weeks before the year 2026 sets in. This early, we’ve mapped out some travel plans already for the coming year. Siargao in January. Kerala, India in February. Back to Sydney in March for quite a time, till June. And for the 2nd half of the year 2026, a river cruise along the Rhine. God knows where else we’d find ourselves in in between those planned trips. There’s Hokkaido and Medan, Indonesia in the drawing boards. And of course, that forever plan to watch Messi play — either with Inter Miami or with his national team Argentina for the coveted back to back win in the World Cup. Busy 2026? Perhaps busier than this year 2025. I’ve skipped many trips with my travel mates this year — choosing to spend more time and holidays with the family. All good. 👍
Hiroshima
Started 2025 with a trip to Fukuoka although we stayed in Hiroshima for the most part. Despite the grim reminders of the horrors of war, the white and pink Sakura blooms cheered us up all throughout that spring holiday. For the 3rd time, I visited Miyajima Island to enjoy once more the iconic Torii gate and the succulent oysters and eels the island is famous for. Back in Manila for the necessary preps for a bigger trip to Spain and France. This European holiday is my first trip with a grandnephew based in Sydney, plus a niece whom I wanted to introduce to the camino as well as take to Lourdes, France for some “spiritual experience”. From the Gaudi-inspired city of Barcelona, we took the train to Pamplona and met up with cousins to Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles to Lourdes to Paris. It was time very well spent. The sightseeing, the pilgrimage walk, time with family, the art and culture aspects of a trip and most importantly, the bonding time while experiencing all these lovely adventures and creating happy memories.
Walking out of Saint Jean Pied de Port in France to cross the Pyrenees into Spain.
Soon after this European trip, I only had a few days to pack for another holiday. This time, in Bali, Indonesia where more kin from Sydney flew in to join me for 5 days of sun and sand. We made sure the trip is “senior friendly” as my 81 year old sister and brother-in-law are joining. That is not to say this newly-arrived (from a hectic trip) septuagenarian didn’t need a break. Quite honestly, I actually rested so well in Bali. It was truly a relaxing holiday after a fast-paced holiday with a younger set. Just what I needed!
With family in Bali.
Fukuoka in spring. Fukuoka in end of summer. Yes, I returned to this lovely city in September, this time with my “Apos” to attend my nieta’s art exhibit. But I hardly did anything outside of just being present. The twenty-somethings did all the planning, flight and tour bookings. Including all dining and shopping itineraries. Not bad. I can get used to this. We ate well, even if I thought we had too much coffee and ramen. I sat out the shopping part, but I enjoyed the new spots which the younger sets prefer. Besides, we are actually here for the Art Fair Asia Fukuoka !
Before the year ended, I joined my friends for yet another trip — to Kaohsiung in Taiwan. This is my first time here as I’ve only been to Taipei and nowhere else in Taiwan. Just a quick trip. Aside from shopping and eating, I only managed to visit Pier 2 Art Center. On 2 consecutive days, I visited the area which is just a short walk from the hotel we booked. Just as well. The pier is a massive place dotted with brick warehouses cum shopping and dining areas, and parks with very interesting art installations. I’m sure my young family members would love it here. But next visit, I’d be sure to time it during cooler temps. It’s hard to endure the sun in the open-air art spots. The afternoons by the river are more pleasant though.
Pier 2 Art Center. Kaoshiung, Taiwan.
And so, here ends 2025. How has it been? We look back with gratitude and look forward with hope. In a few, the year 2026 beckons. A third of the coming year is all planned out this early but the remainder is still there, leaving room for exploration. For adventure. For surprises. Oh, don’t we all love surprises? I am ready for the coming year. Are you? 💕🎉🙏🍾🚘💃✈️🚂🛳️⛱️🏕️⛰️🏝️
That first visit was simply NOT enough. The stroll from the Kaohsiung Music Center to the Whale Promenade across the bridge gave us a sweat. Feeling a tad out of place with the younger crowd that late Sunday afternoon cheering on a band onstage amidst food kiosks and arts and crafts booths, we headed back to our hotel in time for dinner at a nearby izakaya. On our last full day in Kaohsiung, we leisurely spent the day food shopping in the morning, then checking out this institution of a beef noodle house which has been in business for 65 years. We beat the lunch crowd and promptly got a table without having to line up. Siesta after lunch, why not? It was only wise to wait till late afternoon when it’s not too sunny and humid before giving Pier 2 another stroll with plans to enjoy cocktails in one of the seafood restaurants by the riverbank. Another afternoon, another sunset.
The row of brick warehousesand some art installations happened to be right behind the Kaohsiung Music Center. A wide promenade good for joggers, sightseersas well as some avid shoppers and friends who just want to hang out, perhaps helped along by some alcoholic beverages. We watched as the sun set and thereafter indulged in sundown cocktails in this seafood resto and wine bar by the riverbank called Yonshin Fudopia. For the first time, I’ve tried whelks — a kind of marine snails used for food — which I absolutely enjoyed! Besides, vino by the waters by sundown is one pleasurable moment in my book. A slight breeze on an otherwise humid day with good company clinched the deal.
The art installations by the water’s edge continue beyond the bridge all the way to a parkand Art Center. It’s a good walk. I headed back the following morning and simply traced the route of the light rail which weaved thru brick warehouses and a mini park. A robot here, a peeing boy painted on a wall, a giant statue, some more art installations which included a mini train, something that looked like either a phonographor a megaphone, a suitcase, dragon, swing, etc. Tried to eavesdrop on this bunch of school kids with their teacher spilling details on the sculptures but no deal — can’t break through the Chinese spiel. For sure, those kids were awed by the lessons.
By and large, Kaohsiung is a more quiet, cleanerplace than Taipei. We’ve skipped the touristy stuff and simply enjoyed the shopping and strolls by the pier. We could have done better in the dining department though but trip’s short and sweet so that’s alright. I slept real good and I haven’t done that in a long time. Like 8 to 9 hours! Trips with absolutely no agenda do work.
We arrived on a Saturday evening and settled on an al fresco dinner around the corner from our Fullon Kaohsiung Hotel before calling it a night. Though it was just a 2-hour flight with no time difference from Manila time, airport departures and arrivals still shift one’s balance and leave you tired and restless. The dinner in this hole in the wall was both funny and satisfying. We had our fill of Taiwan beer and Kirin along with bowls of fish, gelatinous pork, spicy clams, Taiwanese sausages, anchovies, and whatever else our eyes fancied. We were famished and tired. And the restaurant ran out of rice but we were a bunch of uncomplaining, happy diners. A good start.
Touchdown, Kaohsiung!
Dinner in a hole-in-the-wall restaurant
The next morning, we walked 3 blocks towards the Holy Rosary Cathedral for our Sunday English Mass, followed by shopping at the SKM Mall. By late afternoon, we were ready to pay the Pier 2 Arts Center a visit. Just a walking distance from our hotel but we only managed to visit the Music Center and the Whale Promenade across. There was a very young crowd that Sunday evening, complete with a a stage for some entertainment hemmed in by rows and rows of food and crafts booths. Like a Mercato with a stage band! Worked up a sweat just walking around. Missed a good part of the Art Center (it can wait another day) as it swiftly turned dark after sunset.
Holy. Rosary CathedralA carousel outside the SKM Mall
Shopping was alright. Bagged a few items but I’m not much of a shopper anyway. Besides, Uniqlo prices here seem higher than what they fetch back in Manila. Better to enjoy my hotpot lunch instead of shuttling between the outlet stores. But then again, my hotpot meal left much to be desired that I vowed to search for a good hotpot or beef noodle house while I’m here. (We found one the following Monday)
Gang Yuan Noodle House. 65 years in business.
The. Kaohsiung Music Center at Sunset
Would anyone recognize this singer?
It’s nice to be back in Taiwan. My last visit was years ago, where I still remember the excellent meals we partook with delightful plum wines. Had a local then who took us to good dining outlets. With only 3 nights to spend here, there may not be enough chances 🥲 as we’ve only covered that al fresco dinner, beef noodle house and a Japanese izakaya. Let’s see how our luck turns out in the few meals remaining.
Woke up real early today for our 7:45 am flight for St. Petersburg. Good thing we got our suitcases in Lylah’s trunk the night before. Thank yous , hugs and kisses for our perfect hostess, Lylah Moonlight, and Emy and I were off to Russia via Paris.
From Paris, it was just another 3 hrs or so before we landed in St. Petersburg. Emy was held up in the airport immigration for a good half hour. By the time they released her and allowed entry to Russian soil, they have managed to tamper her passport presumably to check if her passport photo was not something surreptitiously slipped in!!! Gosh, you find a sea of unsmiling faces comprising your reception committee in this communist country and it’s enough to give you cold feet. Worse, there are no airport buses or shuttles to the city center. One has no choice but to negotiate with taxi drivers who seem to have all appointed a “Mafia Boss” for the taxi ride to town. For Emy and I, it was a whopping US $70 to get to Hotel Pribaltiskaja.
We were in the hotel way past 5 pm. Just enough time to get acquainted with the hotel facilities and enjoy a buffet dinner. From our Hotel window, we can look out to the Gulf of Finland. Over dinner, we met with a Filipino and Singaporean family who were on a tour which started in Helsinki, Finland. We all agreed dinner could be better. Actually, it was sloppy. These Russians have a lot to learn. And we are certainly not in a cheap hotel! Ours may not be in the city center but it’s one of the best they have in St. Petersburg. Good thing the 3rd world babes were too tired to complain.
St. Basil ‘s
September 8 Wednesday
Soon after our breakfast which we finished by almost 11 am, we were ready to take the hotel shuttle to town. From the drop off point near the grand colonnade of Kazan Cathedral, we entered the cathedral and witnessed a Russian wedding where the bridesgroom and bridesmaid each held a red crown over the heads of the bride and groom. I didn’t understand a word throughout the ceremony but I bet the groom is so very happy with his very beautiful bride. We then walked all along Nevskij Prospekt to the golden spire of Admiralty. Taking 360 degree turns, Emy and I took photos with the following in the background: Admiralty, Palace Square, and the Winter Palace which is home to the Hermitage Museum. For only 250 rubles equivalent to less than US$10, we joined a guided tour of the Museum with this English speaking museum guide. But let me explain the process: first you go to this office to say you want to join the tour, they give you a slip of paper to go to this window and pay, then you get back to the office for the tickets. Then you go through security and wait till your guide is ready with the touring party. I believe that is the communist way. Hmmmm.
The Museum is a must see. The extravaganza alone will bowl one over. You can imagine the tsars and tsarinas waltzing away the night in all those huge halls. The Jordan Staircase looks better on photo though, but what the heck, Emy and I took snapshots of each other on the staircase!!! Never mind that a Japanese group was ogling us as we tried to walk down the stairs like a Tsarina would. Hmmmp! Gosh, these Japanese are really all over town. And these Japanese tourists are getting younger and younger…….Back to the collections, these prove what a great shopper Catherine the Great was. From the Italian masters, to the Dutch painters, to the Spanish famed artists, and on and on. The whole collection spells W O W. I particularly liked the sculpture Crouching Boy by Michelangelo. We also didn’t miss da Vinci’s Madonna and Madonna Litta, Rubens’ Descent from the Cross (there are many other versions by other artists on the same theme, all equally good) and Rembrandt’s Abraham’s Sacrifice of Isaac and Portrait of an Old Man. There were also the contemporary works of Cezanne, Matisse, Monet, Degas, Gaugauin, Renoir, Pissaro and Picasso. The 1812 Gallery is as impressive as the military men’s portraits tried to convey machismo, along with the lavishly decorated Malachite Hall, Pavillion Hall and White Dining Room. Wow, these tsars and tsarinas really lived it up!
Church of the Spilled Blood
We were all but exhausted by the time we got back to the hotel. Kind of late since we passed by St. Isaac’s Cathedral too and by the time we got to the drop off in Kazan, the 6pm shuttle was already full and we had to wait another 20 minutes – in the rain – for the next shuttle. Oh, did I mention that on the way back to the shuttle pick up point, Emy had this “slip” ? It sounded more like she dropped her bag but gosh, she DROPPED along with the bag. No wonder it sounded like a real heavy thud! We really must be walking a lot…… When we got back to the hotel, we tried looking for the Placinos but the front desk said there was no one who checked in by that name!!!! After about an hour, we got a call from Robbie. They were in the hotel lobby and we asked them to come up to our room. What a reunion!!!! Maryann said she thought we would never have a chance to see each other again. Well, it was our luck to meet up again , and in Russia at this time at that! After some aperitif consisting of caviar sold by this Russian waiter for only $10 spread over some wafers I got from Czech Republic, we trooped down to the dining hall for dinner. Nothing exciting about Russian meals, I must say, but the company is superb! Naturally, we laughed to our hearts’ content on the Emy slipping episode. Poor Emy!
Before calling it a night, we agreed to meet the following morning at the Church of the Resurrection of Christ, also known as the Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood.
September 9 Thursday
This one is a St. Basil’s Cathedral look alike, but I wouldn’t know that since I haven’t seen St. Basil’s in Moscow. Just the same, the Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood with all its multi-colored onion domes and frescoed paintings is a great sight! The story goes that Alexander II was assassinated on the very spot and that the church served like a memorial for him. The Placinos joined us touring the interiors of this great church. One has to look up much of the time, craning one’s neck to appreciate the beauty all around……..truly marvelous. After this tour, we decided to do a bit of shopping in Gostinny Dvor and to check in on Alexandrinsky Theater, the oldest theater in Russia, to buy ballet tickets.
We managed to get tickets for the 7 pm ballet (Swan Lake with Kolegova as lead) before splitting up. The Placinos had to get their bags packed to board their boat for the cruise, while Emy and I decided to stay in the city center to explore. First we had lunch in a simple café in front of Alexandrinsky Theater where a lunch of Beef Stroganoff and Chicken Kiev was good for its moderate price. Not bad, until I ordered a cup of cappuccino which costs just as much as lunch! Really, I will never understand the Russian pricing system — from food to taxi fares to souvenir items. The good news though is that there was this sweet young waitress in the café who gave us tips on where to go and how .
And so, before the 7pm ballet performance, Emy and I managed to take the metro to go to the Peter and Paul Fortress, took photos of the Cathedral of Peter and Paul with its graceful spire, and a splendid panorama of the Admiralty and Winter Palace from across the River Neva. Taking the same metro back to Gostinny Dvor, we shopped again
until it was almost performance time. No chance to visit the Russian Museum right beside the Church of Resurrection nor Michail’s Palace and the Summer Garden. Swan Lake was in 4 acts; though there was some debate after the 3rd act if there is a subsequent act. We thoroughly enjoyed the ballet but gosh, how ignorant can we get!
Another experience awaited us before we split up. Emy and I negotiated with this taxi driver to take us back to Hotel Pribaltiskaja. First the driver quoted 30 euros which of course was simply exhorbitant! Down to 20 euros, until we managed to settle on 250 rubles or about US $10. All this haggling is taking a toll on my nerves. By the time we got back to the hotel, we were completely exhausted.
September 10 Friday
We got to the airport by 9am only to be told that we should go up the stairs to check in our big suitcases. No lifts! Wow, these Russians talaga!!! We found 2 porters, promptly tipped US$2 which brought big smiles on their faces, and got our bags checked in . While waiting, one of the 2 porters never stopped smiling at us that Emy and I were almost tempted to hand him more tips. There was only one departure lounge so we had to wait outside until the lounge is “cleared” by the previous batch of departing passengers. The Aeroflot plane ride from St. Petersburg to Moscow only took an hour and a half. The stewards looked like air marshals, the stewardesses looked either like spies or prostitutes. By the time we got to the Shereme airport and picked up our bags, we were deluged by waiting taxi drivers ready to haggle over the taxi fare. One even got this English speaking woman who fits a hustler’s role to a T to convince Emy and I that taxi fare from the airport to city center is fixed at 2000 rubles, about US $70. I haggled, but not so successfully, down to 1500 rubles or about US$50. Another stressful episode.
Sheraton Palace Hotel in Moscow’s Tverskaya Road is a haven. Most of the staff speak good English and the doorman (Pappie) , a huge black man, looks like an adorable bear. We only took some time to drop our bags, put some order in the room, get some fruits (free) near the lifts, and Emy and I were ready to explore. Pappie said it is just a 15 minute walk to the Red Square. Pappie was off by a good half hour!!!! By the time we got to Red Square, we found just enough time to take photos of the Kremlin Wall and the famous St. Basil’s Cathedral. It looks almost the same as the Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood in St. Petersburg except that St. Basil’s has a lot of free space around it. It is a perfect photo op. Lenin’s tomb was already closed so Emy and I decided to go back the next day without our cameras as they don’t allow it. We walked back the same way along Moscow’s Tverskaya Streetwhich is the main shopping area. Along the way, we passed a number of Mc Donald’s , Pizza Hut, Benetton, and the awesome Yeliseyevsky Store, an ornate and elegant food store complete with chandeliers!!!! We bought some croissants and salami for breakfast the following day.
September 11 Saturday
No cameras slung on our shoulders, but heavily wrapped in leather and wool jackets, we made our way back to Red Square. This time, we took the metro. We got off at the Teatralnaya, which literally means Theater Square. And so it was, since the Bolshoi Theater is just across the metro station. There was this stocky man who asked me “What do you want to watch?” in a tone that demands your full attention. A squeaky voice (mine) said “ballet”. Then on the ticket window while inquiring on the ticket prices at Bolshoi, this guard stands right behind you in a manner that you feel this imaginary cell which does not allow you to make any abrupt motions lest you get it in the head from this guard. The end of this episode is we finally bought our tickets for ballet for 850 rubles, about US $30 for the 7pm performance tonight. If they charged us US$100, I’d probably be too nervous to complain.
We went back to the Red Square and lined up for Lenin’s Tomb. We were too late. Instead, we lingered over the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier before finally deciding to buy tickets for a guided tour of the Kremlin’s Cathedral Square. This again is a must-see in Moscow. Too bad we didn’t have our cameras with us. Our local guide Luva (meaning love in Russian) felt so sorry for us. There was the Cathedral of Annunciation where the royals were baptized and married , the Cathedral of Assumption where the royal heirs were crowned, and the Cathedral of Archangel Michael where the tsars were buried. The Cathedral of Annunciation was also the private chapel of the tsars and tsarinas and the church has a private passageway linked to the palace. There was also Ivan the Great’s Bell Tower in the Square. Not far from the Cathedral Square is the Tsar’s Bell. The largest bell in the world, it cracked even before the bell was rung. A few steps away we found the Tsar’s Cannon. The guards across were ready to blow their whistles as soon as a tourist takes even a half step beyond the ropes. And some yards before the exit, we found the tsars’ entertainment center all dressed up in multicolored domes and bright yellow painted walls. Oh, so much to see and no cameras!!! I promised myself I’d go back the following day with my camera even if that means having to pay for another ticket to the Kremlin.
Food in Russia must be so bad I can’t even remember where we had our dinner before the ballet. I think it’s in this fastfood in a department store called GUM. Again, I was confused with the Russian pricing system. You eat buffet dinner in a hotel for under 400 rubles, yet you pay as much as 900 rubles for a fastfood meal! I’m completely out of my wits……guess the Russians just price as they wish without real regard to value. Like a metro ride is just 8 rubles yet a taxi ride can rip you off at 3000 rubles.
Anyway, Giselle was only in 2 acts, and while we claim not to be experts, we are sure that the Bolshoi theater performance (Inna Petrova as Giselle, Dmitriy Gudanov as Count Albert) is better than the Kirov performance in St. Petersburg. The little pamphlet I got says the theater has been in existence since 1776. Nothing in the pamphlet offered any information about the theater siege in 2002 where Russian troops lobbed nerve gas into the theater and resulted in deaths of over a 100 including theater guests and tourists. While delighting in the ballet performance, we couldn’t help stealing glances at the Russian guards posted almost at every corner of the theater. They sure look oh so ready to pounce on anyone who makes a drastic move. That explains why we deliberately slowed our motions and tried not to make any abrupt movements. Going back to the hotel, we took the metro and happened to check in on some famous Moscow underground stations which are so lavishly decorated. Emy counted off some 17 lamp posts spread at 3 meter intervals as we plunged down an escalator to take the subway. Designed as bomb shelters, we were even more amazed to see chandeliers, stained glass, mosaics, and ceiling paintings in some train stations. Only in Russia, indeed!
September 12 Sunday
We found this huge Catholic Church some 15 minutes walk away from the Sheraton Hotel. Perhaps because they are a minority, it was so refreshing to see such devout Catholics gathered in prayer. After mass, Emy and I took off again to try our luck at Lenin’s Mausoleum. We got in line, but because we brought our cameras with us, Emy was held up in the gate and not allowed entry. I got lucky and passed the gate without a hitch even while I had 2 cameras in my bag! Bading adieu to Emy with a promise to be back soon so I can get her bag while she makes a dash for the tomb, I followed the line to pay my respects to Lenin. All around his tomb , they posted guards and trust me, each one is a Lenin look-alike, without the beard of course. But these guards could even pass off as wax figures, especially so since they hardly move, or even breathe!!!! Panting for breath, I managed to sprint back with a few breaths left to Emy despite one guard insisting that I get back on the line making out for the exit. I pretended not to understand, and when you’re panting for breath it’s easy to play dumb……Well, all’s well that ends well.
After this episode, we went back to see Luva to get on another tour of the Kremlin. Emy changed her mind even before Luva formed a group. She opted to do her shopping. I stayed, and met 3 Texan buddies with rounded bellies. With 2 cameras, I got real good fotos of Cathedral Square, the Tsar’s Bell and Tsar’s Cannon. The 3 Texans had no cameras so I took their pictures too and promised to email them the fotos. On the way back to the hotel, I bought some icons for pasalubongs(gifts).
September 13 Monday
Another rip off at US $100 for a 30 minute taxi ride that took us from the hotel to the airport. Again, Emy got held up exiting Russia….. this time , because her passport seems “tampered”. Of course it was, the Russians in St. Petersburg tampered it when we entered Russia!!!! Frankly, the first time we were hassled in St. Petersburg, I felt like it was really an ordeal. Got real worried then. This time around, I wasn’t sure how I’d feel if we were not allowed out of the country. For one, there were still a number of sights Emy and I missed. hmmmm………you like how I’m thinking? Well, Lady Luck either smiled at us or smirked at the thought, and we were finally out of Russia. As we settled in our seats on the plane, we reminisced over our Russian ordeal. Funny……….it’s hard to review this ordeal in our heads without remembering the wondrous adventure of stepping into the palaces haunted by Catherine the Great and the last Tsar Nicholas of Russia, or our funny misadventures watching the ballet performances in St. Petersburg and Moscow, the awesome and mind-boggling beauty of the Red Square and the Kremlin. Never mind that we didn’t really enjoy a decent meal in Russia, that we were hassled getting in and out of the country, or that we were ripped off by those taxis and limousine service. This is one adventure we truly enjoyed!
lifeisacelebration 