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Category: Spain

#24 The Young Nazarenos of Cordoba

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April 11, 2012

Cordoba. The Mesquita. Originally a pagan temple. Then a Visigothic Christian Church. Converted into a Mosque. And finally a Catholic Church. How can one go to Cordoba without visiting the Mesquita?

My earlier blog on Andalusia will tell you how we covered both Sevilla and Cordoba during the Semana Santa. Perfect place to be in, except that the weather hardly cooperated. Just the same, we were in luck when we reached Cordoba. Miercoles Santo had 8 processions running. All ending at the Mesquita. We didn’t watch all 8, but our attention was drawn to the young Nazarenos — trainees? Protégés? — in the crowd.

Unlike the “regular” Nazarenos, these young protégés had no pointed hoods over their heads. We even found one barely out of his stroller, nearly knocking everyone blocking his path as he seriously took on his role in the procession. His grandfather tried, in vain, to put him back on the stroller. And we also found girl Nazarenos. Pretty and cutesy participants to the Semana Santa processions. As they passed right in front of us — we were lucky to be standing right by the elevated platforms of the Mesquita — we heard cellphones ringing, as the teenage Nazarenos likewise engaged in light banter with friends in the crowd. All spiritual meaning may have been lost …… But who’s judging?

These young Spaniards are fortunate to have, and to keep these traditions. The processions may seem a bit unruly —- compared to the “silent processions” in Madrid —- even festive, but the tradition has not lost its meaning, and its charm, on me.

Tags: Andalusia, Cordoba, Europe, Semana Santa, Spain

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#23 It’s “Raining Very Well” In Sevilla

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April 10, 2012

That’s what the driver of the red tourist bus said. IT’S RAINING VERY WELL IN SEVILLA. Very well, indeed.

We took the AVE fast train to Cordoba today only to find not so pleasant weather in this part of Andalusia. Then and there, we decided to hop back on the train and proceeded to Sevilla. Rounded up the Giralda with all those seats neatly arranged around the cathedral while young and not so young men and women donned their Nazareno hooded outfits for the religious procession. Alas, it poured too — more heavily here — and the procession and other religious festivities were all cancelled!

It was so frustrating to watch. Hooded Nazarenos unmasking, wet wooden seats folded up, crowds thinning and spilling into nearby tascas and tapa bars. Pasos staying inside the church without a chance to stray out for a procession. Even the ride on the hop on, hop off tourist bus was so gloomy as the skies opened up and threatened a flash flood around the beautiful city of Seville. We peered through windshields with wipers busily swatting off raindrops. We wrapped ourselves good as the chill started to freeze our fingers and numb our cheeks.

The morning after left Sevilla still wet, the floors of many tapa bars strewn with litter, too many coffee cups in garbage bins. Since we slept early the night before — so un Spanish — we woke up to catch the early hours in Maria Luisa Park sans the tourist crowd. It’s a lovely park though I still long for the charm of centuries-old buildings, bell towers, castles and churches.

By the time the tourist buses arrived to download more ~~camwhores~~ tourists like us, we were ready for another ride on the hop on, hop off red bus. Then off to the Sevillan Cathedral where throngs of tourists seem to have congregated around the Tomb of Cristopher Columbus. I grew tired waiting to snap a better photo.

We queued up to scale the ramps toward the Giralda Tower, a Moorish remnant that now serves as the bell tower of the cathedral. All of 37 planks? Can’t recall, but it sure felt that many. From the top, one is rewarded with the Sevillan skyline including the cathedral roofs.

Now, don’t forget that Andalusians take their tapas seriously. We did too. And let that be a good souvenir of our journey to Seville on this Holy Week. With or without the procession, sunny or cloudy, wet or dry, the home of flamenco is always worth a visit.

Tags: Andalusia, Europe, Holy Week, Semana Santa, Sevilla, Spain

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#22 DAY TRIP TO VALLE DE LOS CAIDOS

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April 6, 2012

Just 15 kilometers away from El Escorial is Valle de Los Caidos. Literally translated to “Valley of the Fallen”, this memorial is as different to Escorial as black is to white. The latter is a monument to Spanish fascism. Think Generalissimo Franco.

This is the world’s largest free standing cross. Built upon orders of Generalissimo Franco in the 1940s with labor from prisoners as many as 20,000, the structure houses an underground tomb which includes Franco himself. The memorial was erected in memory of the sacrifices made by the fascists during the Spanish Civil War. Our Tour Guide reminded us to refrain from making any political remarks in this monument as Franco is both loved and hated in this part of the world.

Frankly, I initially felt like I was walking inside a bomb shelter as I made my way in. Of course the murals and interior decor vanished that ridiculous thought almost instantly. But I was surprised to find a tomb in the name of Jose Antonio just before the altar, right across Franco’s. Who is Jose Antonio?

I didn’t stay very long inside. Felt kind of claustrophobic , if you ask me. I was glad to be out breathing the mountain air and appreciating the view. Then a question popped in my mind — but no….. I’m on holiday. No political concerns whatsoever. 😷😏😜

Tags: Franco, Madrid, Spain, Valle de Los Caidos

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#21 DAY TRIP TO EL ESCORIAL

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April 5, 2012

If you’re hankering for a lazy day visiting a cultural treasure and checking how royalty lived, died, and were buried then, take a day trip to the Royal Seat of San Lorenzo de El Escorial. Simply called El Escorial, you can make a stopover here on your way to Avila or Segovia. Or you can simply do El Escorial, just 45 kilometers or less than an hour’s drive from the capital of Madrid, along with Valle de Los Caidos not too far from the palace cum monastery.

It may be true that the edifice was inspired by the Temple of Solomon. The 2 statues of David and Solomon guarding the entrance to the basilica bolster this theory. For sure though, the structure integrated many architectural alterations. Far beyond being a royal residence and monastery, El Escorial is also a school, convent, library, and for the last 500 years, the royal burial site for most of Spain’s monarchs. King Philip II originally intended the place as necropolis for his parents King Carlos I and Queen Isabella of Portugal, as well as for his own family and descendants. The Royal Pantheon, creepy in all its marble goodness, reunite the Spanish Royal Family after life. It is aptly placed right beneath the royal chapel.

Declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1984, this 16th century royal site is likewise a treasure trove for great pieces of art from Spanish, Flemish, Italian masters from the 15th through the 17th century. From Titian to Velasquez to El Greco and many other collections. Too bad no photos to share, folks. Photography not allowed within much of the complex. I heard Mass inside the Basilica and took photos after the service. I was gently reminded by the guards with a simple, potent “No…..” before I could snap a photo of the dome which was inspired by the great church in the Vatican. Not surprising as the royal architect — Juan Bautista de Toledo — likewise worked in Saint Peter’s Basilica. Next to the basilica is King Philip’s royal quarters where a window allowed him to observe Mass even when his gout gave him problems. How about that?

My personal favorite is the Library. The vaulted ceiling’s frescoes reminded me of the Sistine Chapel, albeit on a less grand scale. The Spanish Monarchs and scholars must have spent a great deal of time here. More so as King Philip II intended El Escorial as a center of studies to counter Protestant Reformation then sweeping Europe, in keeping with Spain’s role as center of Catholicism during his reign.

It would take many day trips to El Escorial to fully appreciate its grandeur and view the entire horde of art treasures. My hands found a nice reproduction in watercolor in the monastery’s “tienda” but decided against buying it as I agonizingly peeled myself away to get back on my bus and join my tour group. The tour guide then pulled out a surprise by raffling off the same piece my fat fingers gently traced just a while back. You guessed right. I won that watercolor reproduction. It’s a beautiful day! Life is a celebration 😍😍😍

Tags: El Escorial, Europe, Madrid, Spain

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#20 DAY TRIP TO SEGOVIA

Filed under: Europe, Food Trip, Spain, Travel, travels — 1 Comment

April 1, 2012

When I think of Segovia, I would always have this fleeting image of a cochinillo in all its shining crispness. I could even almost hear the crackling sound way before that crunchy skin touches my lips. Sure, I’m a glutton without remorse. But let me explain.

Back in 2002, I set out on a tour of Spain armed with a long list of must-visit destinations and an equally long list of errr……must-try eats. Among them is the cochinillo at the Meson de Candido. Unfortunately, we landed in Segovia during Lent. On Good Friday at that. Meatless Friday. You don’t know how I’ve always dreamed of that cochinillo all these last 10 years!

Sans liver sauce. Sans all those herbs like our Cebu lechon. But it sure tastes gooooood. Ten years of frustration completely wiped out with the first bite! (I’m shameless when it comes to food). So glad we started our tour of Segovia with a “proper lunch”. By the time we were ready to walk around, we were hopping with energy.

The 2,000 year old Roman aqueduct is Segovia’s claim to fame. Well, besides the cochinillo of course. Even the Segovians have no pretensions about this and even built a statue to honor Señor Candido. These days, the restaurant is run by Candido’s nephew. Sobrino de Candido. Much like Madrid’s CASA Botin is now called Sobrino de Botin. Which makes me wonder……what happened to the hijos, or hijas?

Outside of the cochinillo and ancient aqueduct, Segovia has so much more to offer. Half a day visit doesn’t do it justice. And do get a local guide to walk you through the medieval town. The Segovia Cathedral and Alcazar are must-sees. I was particularly impressed with the icons and sculptures inside the cathedral. Gregorio Fernandez’ “Cristo Yacente” needs sometime to “digest”. Initially, I thought the sculpture lies on a light blue blanket and that a piece of that fabric was likewise placed over parts of Christ’s body. It looked so real, with its many folds, that you wouldn’t think it’s part of the sculpture. If I knew he was this good, I would have paid more attention viewing his art at the Museo de Prado. This tour also introduced me to Juan Juni with his masterful interpretation of “Llanto Sobre Cristo Muerto”. I took close-up shots of the facial expression on one of the statues, showing pure agony.

As for the Segovian Alcazar, this is really more than just another royal castle. The architecture and interiors artfully combine Romanesque, Gothic and Mudejar influences. The royal residence was also among the favorites of some monarchs which include Alfonso X, Henry IV and Isabela the Catholic. Within the medieval walls, one also finds former synagogues attesting to earlier Jewish settlements.

Mind you…..while this is already my 2nd visit, my recollection of the Alcazar was actually limited to the story that the royal castle inspired Walt Disney to design Sleeping Beauty’s castle in that theme park. Easy to forget this petty trivia once you get inside the royal residence. What’s more, you get a lovely view of Segovian landscape from one of the towers. No wonder the former monarchs loved it here!

Tags: Aeurope, Cochinillo, Segovia, Spain, Suckling Pig

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#19 DAY TRIP TO AVILA

Filed under: Europe, Spain, Travel, travels — 1 Comment

March 30, 2012

I have been to Avila before, yet longed to go back again. All unplanned, but I managed to visit Avila 2 days in a row. How? There’s this tour we signed up for last Sunday : El Escorial and Valle de Los Caidos. We didn’t know that the same tour likewise included a visit to Avila. Which is fine. Except that the day before, we had friends who signed up for a tour of Segovia AND AVILA. At the last minute, one couldn’t make it…..so they asked me if I’d want to sub. How’s that???

Ancient hill-top Avila has been declared a Unesco “Heritage of Mankind” city, and is famous for its intact medieval city walls and 90 towers dating back to the 11th century. The city was the birthplace of the mystic writer Saint Teresa of Jesus (1515-82) and is an important pilgrimage site, with quite a good number of churches built in the Romanesque and Gothic style.

First order of the day was a visit to the San Vicente Cathedral. Construction of this church spanned 200 years from the 12th to the 14th century. The church is outside, not inside the city walls. The main door with intricate wood carvings, the retablos and the crypt are the highlights of this church visit.

On the first visit, we had an honest-to-goodness walking tour of Avila. We even had to ask permission from Señora Maria Jesus (si, that’s her name) to give us a couple of minutes to buy yemas. They say the yema uses a secret recipe of no less than Sta. Teresa de Avila. Judging by the number of stalls selling yema, it sure looks like it’s no secret anymore. Now, be careful with these yemas. That small ball tastes like it’s made up of a dozen yolks in it. I’m good for just one. Two will give me a headache.

You may start out visiting as a pilgrim….. until you get tempted to buy some of the cookies irreverently called “Tetillas de Monja”. And please don’t ask me to translate (*blush). Then you completely get off the pilgrimage mode once you ask for “bolas de los frailes”. Dear me, who ever thought of naming these pastries as such are definitely raking it in as 1 out of 5 tourists I met bought a box or two. Tee hee.

Avila’s Plaza Mayor may not be as impressive as similar plazas in major cities but if you’re looking for a place to eat, there are several choices. Other tourists would likely not give it a second look but I bet many Pinoys stopped for some camwhoring in La Bruja Cafe and Bar. Need I tell you why?

Lunch was not in La Bruja. We were soooo hungry by the time we reached Avila (the second time around) that we decided we’d do lunch first and then just ride the “choo-choo” train navigating around and inside the walled city. Besides, we were here just a day before, remember? Restaurante Las Murallas is just at the mouth of the walled city’s gate, where one also takes the small train ride, PLUS it has a store selling yemas and Tetillas! No bolas or pelotas de frailes today (*more blush).

The train goes at 4pm. We nearly had to drag ourselves away from our lunch of cochinillo, cordero, gambas, paella, patatas revolconas. Way too much. How we stuff ourselves! This pilgrimage has turned into a food trip instead. Not fair to our dear St. Therese of Jesus. So, forgive me if I end my blog here. I need to write a more serious piece on the good saint. Lo Siento😔😔😔

Tags: Avila, Saint Theresa, San Vicente Basilicas, Spain

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#18 MADRID BLOG SERIES: “Noynoying” While Visiting Rizal’s Favorite Haunts

Filed under: Europe, Spain, Travel, travels — 3 Comments

March 29, 2012

We started with Part 1 in #9 Madrid Blog Series. This Part 2 has more to do with my “Noynoying” moments here in Madrid. 💤💤💤 It’s been a month and a week now. Done with apartment hunting, appliance shopping, scrubbing, sweeping, cleaning and all that pile of bedlinen and towel laundry. So before I start feeling truly domesticated here in Madrid, I stepped out in search of more of Rizal’s favorite haunts. But not without a few moments of “Noynoying”. The “branding” started while I’m away, and I’ve got to say it’s funny and highly irreverent. Disculpe (“excuse me”) ….. for giving in to the temptation of actually using the brand for a blog title. 😜

The above photos were taken from the Philippine Embassy in Madrid. Jardin Rizal was dedicated in memory of Dr. Jose Rizal on his 150th birth anniversary last June 19, 2011. The Juan Luna Painting — España y Filipinas — couldn’t be more appropriate. One passes this lovely reproduction upon entrance to the Office of the Ambassador.

Earlier, I walked around the block 👣behind Teatro Español where I found Hotel Ingles, Los Gabrielles (now a cafe bar with flamenco 💃dinner shows) and Viva Madrid. I also wrote separate blogs 📖on Parque Retiro and Avenida Rizal/Islas de Filipinas where you find a replica monument of the hero. ⛲ This time, let me take you to places where JPR lived 🏠 (there were many — to a point that I felt JPR has been hopping from place to place), studied and joined protests.

The Congreso de Los Diputados, formerly the Las Cortes Españolas, is the site where Filipinos including our very own heroes used to lobby for equal rights with Spanish citizens. This site, which is a stone’s throw from the Museo de Prado is where the Pinoy community rallied for Philippine autonomy. Makibaka! There is also the Ateneo de Madrid where Rizal studied English, did research and watched plays. His second residence along Calle Manuel Fernández Gonzáles, 8 (formerly C/ Visitación) from May to June 1883 is right across Viva Madrid, one of his favorite haunts. I can just imagine Rizal and other propagandists meeting and dining here after a few drinks at Los Gabrielles off the corner.

Did I just say dining and wining? Those nocturnal activities, in between studies, art exhibits and rallies? Por supuesto! Our heroes were thousands of miles and oceans away from family and country. No internet. No television. No cellphones. No Facebook, no games! No wonder they wrote many letters! 📮📫Surely, they needed some moments of pleasure and leisure to break the monotony. And mind you, they were dead serious and passionate about their struggles for freedom and recognition. Far from “Noynoying”? You tell me. 😏

Tags: Europe, Jose Rizal, Madrid, Rizal, Spain

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#17 MADRID BLOG SERIES: Plaza Mayor in Madrid

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March 27, 2012

The main plaza or Plaza Mayor is just a few steps from Puerta del Sol in Madrid. Your best bet is to take the Metro and get off in Sol. To make things even more right, be sure to cross the street from Sol towards the Ayuntamiento or City Hall and stand firmly with your feet on that marker that says “Kilometro O”. A very touristy behavior, but who cares?

To the right of the Ayuntamiento are 2 streets both ending in the Palacio Real and Almudena Cathedral area. The street on the right is Calle del Arenal where you would be tempted to drop by for churros con chocolate at Chocolateria San Gines. So take the road on the left instead. That’s Calle Mayor where you walk past Museo de Jamon ….. Oops.

On your left side, watch out for an alley that leads to Plaza Mayor. I think this is Calle Felipe III. Take this alley and be sure to drop in on this small shop where you can check out your “apellido” and buy a keychain with your family heraldry or insignia or emblem….. I found mine, and my family name like many Filipinos has Spanish roots. Mine is a special clan of mercenary warriors noted for their bravery. Paid soldiers!

Within the square you may want to visit the Tourist Information Center. You can pick up maps here and check out some guided tours. Many chose to do the “hop on, hop off” red tour bus for €20. If you’re not keen on walking and would just want to sightsee from your bus seat (it’s open on the 2nd level), then this is for you. Otherwise, take the unlimited tourist pass for €9.30 (1day) or €13 (3 days) which you can use taking the metro or bus and explore on your own. After all, the metro stops for the tourist sites are clearly marked and Madrid has a superb metro system.

Again, you’d find many street artists — should I call them plaza artists? OR buskers? — around the statues of King Philip III and the corners of the square. Many dining outlets too — mainly catering to the tourist crowd, I guess, judging by their patrons. You can have your paella and jamon fix in any of the tascas here. (Tascas mean “local gathering place”) Or you may simply have that sangria or cafe con leche with some tapas (appetizers) in any of the open-air bars and just people-watch. Buen provecho!

Tags: Europe, Madrid, Plaza Mayor, Spain

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#16 MADRID BLOG SERIES: Food Porn @Mercado de San Miguel

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March 26, 2012

Beyond Puerta del Sol, past Plaza Mayor, is this most charming mercado like no other. I wasn’t looking for it when I found it. And that was on my Day 2 in Madrid. Since then, I would always drop in whenever I’m in the area. Just love it here!

Each time I drop in, the place is jampacked! Noisy, crowded, so lively, so Spanish! I don’t know how these Madrileños manage to gesture with their hands while holding a wine glass and a croqueta or Quezo on the other hand. And you know what I mean when I say “gesture with their hands” , or with their shoulders! Think only the Italians come close.

No chairs, no stools. You and your friends around a cocktail table and drink, eat like there’s no tomorrow. Tried the paella, the croquetas, jamon and some Quezo Manchego. Next time, I’d try the yogurt. Saw a photo of Prince Charles and his dear Camilla trying out some favors in that stall.

And all that seafood from fried boquerones and sardines to steamed and grilled oysters and squids. Plus don’t forget the chupitos, baby eels, and so much more — in tapas or racion sizes! Nom Nom Nom. This is my neighborhood. I feel happy just people-watching here. That, while munching, makes me forget to take more photos. But these would do, won’t they? I’m busy ☺

Errr……lastly, go and have that drink. And I don’t mean just sangria.

Tags: Boquerones, Chupitos, Croquetas, Europe, Madrid, Mercado, Paella, San Miguel, Sangria, Spain

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#15 MADRID BLOG SERIES: Almudena Cathedral and Crypt

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Filed under: Europe, Spain, Travel, travels — 3 Comments

March 20, 2012

The first time I went to the Almudena Cathedral, I wasn’t expecting much. After all, Madrid allegedly pales in comparison with other major cities around Spain in terms of antiquity. In plain terms, it means Madrid’s sacred destinations are not that “OLD”.

Dedicated to the Virgin of Almudena, the construction of the cathedral began in 1883 but was completed a century later in 1993. The name Almudena comes from Almudaina, Arabic for “wheat-store”, because there was one close by.

The story goes that when the Muslims were about to conquer Madrid, the Madrileño Christians hid a statue of the Blessed Virgin Mary behind a wall to spare it from being abused and profaned by the conquering Muslims. When King Alphonsus VI regained the city, the wall miraculously crumbled, revealing the statue of our Lady.

What the Church may have lacked in terms of architectural credit and historical significance, this Neo-gothic edifice made up for with its Neo-Romanesque Crypt which houses a 16th century image of the Virgin of Almudena. Kind of creepy inside the crypt, helped along by the background music as one moves from altar to altar, crypt to crypt. As I walked OVER some graves of presumably distinguished Madrileños, adorned with potted plants and flowers, I couldn’t help wondering if this “real estate” is priced highest on a per square meter basis in this corner of the world. (Disculpe, for this irreverence)

If you happen to be in the area of the Palacio Real, make sure to drop by the Cathedral, and then the Crypt. You can also buy some religious souvenirs on your way in or out, like what I got (that’s the photo of the 16th century painting of the Virgin of Almudena). Then before heading home or back to your hotel, you have the option to spend the rest of the day exploring the gardens around the Royal Palace or walk back to Puerta del Sol, passing the Opera. If you’re too tired, then take that metro ride from the Opera Metro Station.