Category: Philippine Travels



When one speaks of La Loma, 2 things easily come to mind. LECHON. And the old cemetery.

 

I joined a guided tour organized by the Museum Foundation of the Philippines with no less than Architect Manuel Noche guiding us through the flamboyant architecture and interesting history of this urban cemetery.

 

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Little Monuments in the Old La Loma Cemetery

 

 

The great divide between rich and poor is very evident here. In death, as in life, the rich enjoy the prominence, the grandeur, the prime slots. One “street” in this city of the dead counts a number of mausoleums big enough to house several of the squatter-families of Manila. Prominent family names adorn the fronts of many of these flamboyantly designed mausoleums for the rich and famous. It’s like a “who’s who of Philippine High Society”.

 

 

 

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No. It isn’t a church. It’s a Mausoleum.

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Another Mausoleum for the Barredo Family. La Loma Cemetery. Quezon City.

 

 

A big pseudo-baroque chapel dedicated to Saint Pancratius within the cemetery which served as its funerary chapel from 1884 to 1962  is now fondly called “Lumang Simbahan” (literally translated “Old Church”).  Rich and famous dead lying side by side in their private, marbled resting havens – – truly a city for the dead spanning 54 hectares of land in this former capital (Quezon City) of the Philippines. Spared from the ravages of war where much of Manila was bombed out during the 1945 Battle of Manila, but not spared from serving as execution site during the Japanese occupation. Just the same, Campo Santo de La Loma is a significant link to Philippine history and architecture. After all, this 2nd oldest cemetery (1884)counts among its buried citizens the important icons of history, the old rich and famous, religious leaders and the simply famous. And yes, you read that right. 1884. Second oldest public cemetery, according to Architect Noche. Paco Cemetery spanning only 4 hectares IS the oldest (1822).

 

 

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Lumang Simbahan or Chapel of Saint Pancratius within the grounds of La Loma Cemetery. Served as funerary chapel from 1884 to 1962.

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Details of the funerary chapel which has been abandoned and closed since 1962. Except for the sign “Epistula”, we found no other marker to explain its history.

 

 

Despite the heat, we trudged on dripping with enthusiasm and sweating with history lessons from our architect tour guide. If it were any cooler, i dare say these photos may remind one of the old cemetery tours done in Paris, Buenos Aires, and New Orleans.

 

 

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This is NOT an ordinary street. It cuts across the La Loma Cemetery, lined on both sides by old mausoleums belonging to prominent and old elitist families in the Philippines.

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Quite a sight. Who would have thought this is in the Philippines? Or that there’s 54 hectares of cemetery property within the Metropolis?

 

 

All of 54 hectares within the metropolis. You’d think one should find better use for this land in this time and age. But it is an important piece of our history. I’m sure the hoi polloi would be interested to read up on the history of some of the prominent families interred here. Them are some of the aristocratic families of old. The illustrados. The hacienderos. Viejo familias. Their names ring familiar as many industries, companies, schools, even streets are named after them.

 

 

 

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Must be an old tree growing out of a Mausoleum.

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I can only imagine Dona Victorinas coming to light candles and offer flowers in many of these Mausoleums. 😉

 

 

As we moved from mausoleum to mausoleum, from one gravesite to the next, we can’t help wonder how squatter-families live here. As we stood in awe viewing the grandeur of some architectural designs and sculptures, we also didn’t miss the empty gravesites where little children play nearby and where laundry hangs from a rope loosely hung between 2 trees. Mixed emotions here. I feel for these impoverished families, yet I lament that this “open air museum” seems to have been taken over by illegal occupants. I really hope our government finds a suitable relocation site where these families can resettle.

 

 

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This one looks rather NEW. All of 3 storeys high. Looks a bit tacky to me.

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There were many interesting statues and monuments. Architect Manuel Noche said he brings his architectural class to these cemeteries every now and then to study art and architecture. Well, history too.

 

 

I know there are some who go visit on their own, but guided tours are best if one wants to appreciate the place’s historical and architectural significance. You may google all you want but you may miss out on some historical tidbits. Besides, it’s good to visit as a big group. It’s more fun!

 

 

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Another Mausoleum for the Rich and Famous.

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……….while others are interred in another part of the cemetery.


“And if travel is like love…it is mostly because it’s a heightened state of awareness, in which we are mindful, receptive, undimmed by familiarity and ready to be transformed. That is why the best trips, like the best love affairs, never really end.” ~ Pico Iyer

 

 

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As I’ve earlier blogged, I never grow tired of Tagaytay. Neither of Taal Volcano. Whether it’s viewed from the lakeshore in Talisay, Batangas or from the Tagaytay Ridge. With guests, we drove south from Manila at exactly 8am and back by 1pm. Just a short 5 hour day trip to view the world’s smallest active volcano.

 

 

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The lakeshore scene from Club Balai Isabel included men fishing out seaweed from the waters by the shore. And then plunking them back down somewhere farther. Don’t ask me why. But it made for a lovely morning vista for city people like us. The men were still there even while we had a simple lunch of bulanglang soup and club sandwiches at the Club’s Terraza Cafe.

 

 

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It’s always good being back here. I so love the place here I’m longing to spend a long weekend with my family here again. Yes, again. And again.

 

 

Soon after lunch, we negotiated the 9 kilometer uphill drive towards Tagaytay City. This time, we entered the Taal Vista Lodge for the view of the same volcano from the ridge. Hard to imagine this ridge used to be part of the volcano which collapsed in a major eruption centuries ago. By this time, so much has changed in Tagaytay. I long for the rustic feel which is fast fading — what with all the high rise structures under construction.

 

 

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So, let’s hope the local authorities in Talisay, Batangas and Tagaytay City remember to preserve the charm of these small city and town. I’d be terribly saddened to see these places ruined as they are being “built up”. Taal Volcano may look the same, but the “old charm” adds to the ambiance, the romance of viewing this small monster from the lakeside and from the ridge.

 

 

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I know. I know. Sounds morbid. Even cruel. But can’t help thinking THAT while walking the “streets” within the hallowed grounds of La Loma, North and Chinese Cemeteries in Manila.

 

 

The architect/tour guide mentioned how Evita Peron’s grave in Recoleta Cemetery draws in millions of tourists and yield tourism moolah for Argentina. Yes, Evita of that Broadway musical fame. The same lovely lady who married Juan Peron just a year before Juan became President of Argentina. The same lady who tried to run as Vice President of the same South American nation.

 

 

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Evita. Don’t you feel like breaking out to sing “Don’t Cry For Me, Argentina”?  That musical has forever etched this Argentinian First Lady into our minds and pop culture. Many believe she’s the inspiration for a local ex-First Lady who similarly held political posts while the husband was President. The latter has inspired many comedy acts and invariably, the plays emphasized her flamboyant lifestyle and alleged “obsession” with shoes. Given the flamboyance displayed in these urban cemeteries, the architect/tour guide is spot on when he quipped “Wait till xxxxx dies……”.

 

 

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Some of those mausoleums are even bigger than village churches I’ve been to. Really, in death as in life….. the disparity between rich and poor is very evident. The affluent within high society made sure their family names are immortalized in the “city of the dead”. Spanning many hectares of land, I am amazed to find how vast these cemetery parks are. I visited 3 in a day. La Loma, North and Chinese Cemeteries. Each deserving to have their stories told.

 

 

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Even now, these cemeteries are drawing in tourists. It is just lamentable that the authorities are unable to deal with the squatting problem. If you ask me, these squatters have grown out of control. The very reason why I didn’t have the courage to “tour” on my own. I joined a tour organized by the Museum Foundation of the Philippines and was only too happy to have the brilliant Architect Manuel Noche and the hilarious, ever-energetic Ivan Man Dy walk us through history as we walked around the mounds and mausoleums, some of which are as high as 3 storeys.

 

 

Watch this page for sequels!

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Another one of those afternoons. No cams. Not even a Point & Shoot. Just Siri and Me. Just another hour to “waste”. So here we are, revisiting Paco Park. That lovely, tiny, circular chapel. And the cemetery that could have, SHOULD HAVE earned more attention, respect and recognition other than as a popular wedding venue. 😦

 

 

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I confess to my own ignorance too. Not that I lacked interest. More like I truly feel there is something grievously wrong about how our history has been written and our own education and school system. Whatever I know of Philippine history, I gained from the books I bought and read. What I learned from school hardly went beyond Rizal’s martyrdom. Let’s admit this. Many history lessons stopped with Magellan’s death courtesy of Lapu-Lapu (so, what happened to Lapu Lapu after? Any guess?), or with Rizal’s martyrdom in Bagumbayan (where was our national hero interred following the 1896 execution?). Or how many Philippine heroes can you name and how much do we know of each? If we hardly know Rizal our national hero, I do not expect we can say much of Bonifacio, Mabini, Fathers Gomez, Burgos and Zamora.

 

 

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For some, if not many, it would come as a surprise that the 3 martyred priests are actually buried here. It may even surprise some that their execution in 1872 inspired our national hero to write El Filibusterismo.. Today, this marker may not spark as much enthusiasm and evoke much significance among many locals. How sad.

 

 

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Circling the same Paco Park, a patch of land bears another marker. This is the very spot where our national hero was SECRETLY buried soon after the December 30, 1896 execution in Bagumbayan. Zoom in on that marker to know more! 😉

 

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We didn’t plan on being here. We met for early lunch hoping to simply chat the afternoon away. But why not chat while driving around Intramuros, much like those joy rides we used to enjoy when we were kids?

 

 

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Then the calesa passed right in front of us. It’s 2 o’clock in the afternoon and those riders didn’t seem to mind the heat nor the sun. Well, it wasn’t particularly hot this afternoon. Pleasant enough to get off the car and walk into Baluarte de San Diego here in Intramuros. It’s a better option than the more open spaces in Fort Santiago. More shady trees too.

 

 

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For only 75 pesos (less than US$2), one can get in to enjoy the “park with some history”. There were kids running around with their dog in the shady part of the Baluarte. Not many tourists. Many of them must be in Fort Santiago or San Agustin Church and Monastery. Yet this is one of the oldest stone fortifications in the whole length of the Intramuros walls.

 

 

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The old stone steps lead up to the walls from where one views this circular stone formation, the length of the walls, and the Manila Hotel and other modern skycrapers surrounding the walled city. I remember being here years back when I attended a wedding of a friend’s daughter where I stood as sponsor. I would have wanted to walk atop the walls, but my long gown got in the way 🙂 Today, there is no such restriction.

 

 

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Will someone please tell me how these circular stone formations were used? Surely, the good Jesuit priest who designed it back in the 16th century had some purpose in mind. I mean, I do know they’re there to defend the walled city but my simple mind can’t understand the many circular formations. From what I gather, this part of the Walls went into disrepair and were in fact only rediscovered in the 70s. Forgive my ignorance, but I’m most certainly eager to know how that circular design work.

 

 

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These days, the Baluarte (Baluarte means bastion or fortification) is more popular as a wedding reception venue. I wish it could be more than that. The place has so much history and is, in fact, a lovely “park” which children would enjoy. The only drawback is it could be really hot during summer here. I sure hope the Intramuros Administration consider late afternoon and dusk tours here and around Intramuros. It will require some investment in good lighting and better security, but I’m sure tourists and even locals would enjoy the place better as the day approaches sunset and at night. Play some good music too (like in Paco Chapel and Cemetery) and you’d turn the Baluarte more magical!

 

 

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Such distinguished Filipinos. Estoy. Muy. Orgullosa! I. Am. Very. Proud. As were the Filipinos then based in Madrid who celebrated these Masters’ victories as Gold and Silver Medalists in the 1884 Madrid Arts Exposition. For Juan Luna, his Spoliarium earned him a Gold Medal. Felix Resurreccion Hidalgo earned his Silver for his “Las Virgenes Cristianas Expuestas al Populacho” (The Christian Virgins Exposed to the Populace), which showed a bunch of boorish looking males mocking semi-naked female slaves. A copy of this painting now hangs at the Metropolitan Museum of Manila. The original was destroyed in a fire at the University of Valladolid in Spain. A pity.

 

 

 

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Juan Luna’s Spoliarium

 

 

I visited the National Art Gallery and the Metropolitan Museum of the Philippines on separate occasions. Just a couple of days apart. I had the rare chance to stand in the middle of the Hall of Masters all by my lonesome self. And to get really close to Luna’s Spoliarium. My iPhone came in handy, though the shots could be better. Por supuesto! But ain’t complaining. I love how I can walk around unburdened by a camera slung around my neck.

 

 

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Felix Resurrecion Hidalgo’s “Christian Virgins Exposed to the Populace”

 

 

They had more restrictions at the Metropolitan Museum though. No photography allowed. Not even if you promise not to use flash. (Photo shown here was sourced from the Net. thank you, Google) Same restrictions apply in the Ayala Museum where a guard gently reminded me of such restrictions when I whipped out my iPhone in front of an Edades painting. I’m not complaining but it behooves me why different rules apply. In the case of Hidalgo’s Christian Virgins, I wasn’t even allowed to get within a couple of meters from the copy of this masterpiece. Yes, a copy. Yet, I was allowed to snap close-up shots of the original Spoliarium by Luna.

 

 

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Close Up Shot of Luna’s Spoliarium. National Art Gallery.

 

 

These 2 obra maestros by Luna and Hidalgo bagged Gold and Silver Medals in the 1884 Madrid Arts Exposition. A victory celebrated by Filipino patriots then based in Madrid, to include our very own Dr. Jose Rizal. The venue for the victory banquet still stands today in Madrid, in Echegarray Street just a few strolls from Puerta del Sol. In this banquet, our national hero — who’s said not to have eaten the whole day for lack of funds — gave more than a toast to honor Luna and Hidalgo. More like a speech. A speech so full of bravado and spunk, where Rizal frontally attacked the religious establishment. Perhaps a preview of the Padre Damasos and Padre Silvas in his Noli Me Tangere. If you ever get to Madrid, do check out Hotel Ingles and “stand proud” as forefathers did. And while you’re there, be sure to visit Rizal’s other favorite haunts.

 

 

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Hotel Ingles. Echegarray Street, just a few strolls from Puerta del Sol. Madrid.

 

 

If you haven’t been following my Madrid Blog Series, let me leave you with this excerpt from Rizal’s impromptu speech at the Hotel Ingles victory banquet. My man. Truly, Rizal’s Filipino pride shone through.

 

“Luna and Hidalgo are as much Spanish glories as they are Filipino. Just as they were born in the Philippines, they could have been born in Spain, because genius has no country, genius blossoms everywhere, genius is like the light, the air, it is the heritage of all”

 


My afternoon was suddenly freed up, so how best to spend the time? The sun’s out and a walking tour is out of the question lest I feel like having a heat stroke. Shopping is not an option. I’ve also met my quota of 2 movies max in a week. I don’t feel like reading a book as the one I’m reading now is way too serious, too profound for my taste but nevertheless deserving of a read. I’m not hungry (yet) and I’ve been considering a walk in Chinatown when the heat is more bearable. Between NOW and a dimsum and lumpia fix in Chinatown, there’s the National Art Gallery.

 

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Juan Luna’s Spoliarium

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Felix Resurrecion Hidalgo’s “Assasination of Governor Bustamante”

 

In my first entry, I advised going to the Museum on a full stomach. This time around, I did the rounds while my stomach constantly reminded me of kutchay dumplings in this “hole-in-the-wall” dimsum place” off Ongpin Street. Without breaking a stride, I walked up the stairs to the Art Gallery. Sans camera. Sans bag. What I needed filled my pockets.

 

 

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Siri was good company when I was strolling around Madrid as it is here within Museum walls. There was no crowd so I was able to spend as much time in the Hall of Masters Luna and Hidalgo. Almost mindlessly, I walked right up to the center of the hall between Luna’s “Spoliarium” and Hidalgo’s “Assassination of Governor Bustamante”. With each masterpiece, I inched closer, as if I’d find new meaning as I view the painting up close. I took my time snapping photos with my iPhone camera. Easily, I spent 10-15 minutes in this single hall. It’s not everyday after all that you find yourself ALONE in the Hall of Masters. No crowds. No student groups. No noisy chatty teenagers! No DLSR-toting tourists. 🙂

 

 

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Both masterpieces have so many characters and it is quite interesting to read the facial expression, mannerism, body language and “aura” of each character. Now, that’s coming from a layman. I have neither the aptitude nor the training for art but I see what I see. Whatever and however the painting makes me feel is completely my own. Regardless of who painted what, I derive a certain sense of meaning. Intended or not by the artist, this is WHAT or HOW this and that painting made me feel.

 

 

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I dare not share my sentiments and personal interpretations with anyone. No pretensions here. Both Luna and Hidalgo intended those masterpieces to convey a message. Whether i did get that message or not is my problem. But some may wish to dwell on the “separation of Church and State” or lack of it upon viewing Hidalgo’s “Assassination of Governor Bustamante”. Or how Luna’s very Roman scene in Spoliarium may invite discussions on human rights violations or the Filipinos’ sufferings during that time. The serious artists may deliberate on the significance of the red shade and the dominance of bodies throughout the painting, the interplay of light and shadows or whatever sounds artsy. I have no interpretation. I asked Siri and Siri delivered a well-researched Wikipedia spiel. Then I snapped away. So what I have to share with you are these close up photos from my iPhone cam. Tell me what you think!

 

 

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About time we bring the kids to the Island of Corregidor. The guided tour to this historic island is among the best. Cheerful guides, a good transport system — 1 hour 15 minutes by hover ferry and then the trams called tranvia to tour you around the tadpole-shaped island — and a 3 hour tour packed with history lessons.

 

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Sun Cruises Terminal is right between the Folk Arts Theatre and the Coconut Palace in the CCP Complex.

It’s hard to miss the Sun Cruise Terminal in the CCP Complex. Just tell the cab driver it is between the Folk Arts Center and the Coconut Palace in this reclamation area. Be sure to be there well before the 8am departure time. Worry not about missing breakfast. We took ours there. That is, if you don’t mind a Sabrett hotdog for brekkie.

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Inside the Ferry, on the upper deck, is a store where you can buy breakfast fare.

 

Sunscreen, shades, hat. There are umbrellas inside the tranvia which you can use whenever you step off to view the sites. Just remember this is a memorial. Where many gallant men died defending our country from Japanese forces. If you don’t care to listen to the guide’s history lessons, at least wait for her to finish her spiel before you start camwhoring. Also, do try to tone down your voice. What is it about us, anyway? I feel really sorry that many of our kababayans don’t seem to have much interest in our history, much less accord the necessary respect for our patriots who died here. So sad.

 

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Tranvias or Trams.

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Map of the Tadpole-Shaped Corregidor Island. There’s the Topside, Middleside and Bottomside.

 

 

While only 48 Kms west of Manila, it is considered part of Cavite City. Corregidor, along with the tinier Caballo Island which is only 2 Kms away, partially blocks the entrance to Manila Bay and is thus very strategic in the naval defense of the capital city. Since Sangley Point is located in Cavite City, it made sense to have this island under the administration of this tiny city.

 

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There goes the tranvia or tram which is found waiting for you as you disembark from the ferry to whisk you around the Island.

 

 

The walk through history included the Topside where the headquarters, barracks and bulk of the batteries were located. The Middleside houses the hospital and more barracks while the Bottomside connects the “head” and the “tail” of this fortress island. The Malinta Tunnel with its labyrinth of passageways is found here. So called because the place was swarming with “linta” (leeches) then. Today, the Tunnel is home to a Light and Sound presentation designed by National Artist Lamberto Avellana. For an additional P150 fee, one is transported back to that time during the Second World War when Corregidor was the last stronghold of the joint Phil-Am military forces fighting against the Japanese Imperial Army. Much like the Gibraltar of the Orient.

 

 

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The Headquarters. Iconic landmark of Corregidor Island.

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In sweltering heat, we walked towards the Dome of Valor. A bronze monument of a Filipino and American soldier greets the visitors before this parachute-inspired structure behind which lies the Eternal Flame of Freedom. The whole structure honors the gallant men who sacrificed their lives. Sacred grounds deserving of RESPECT. (I won’t go into that again…. But you get the drift)

 

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Dome of Valor, behind which lies the Eternal Flame.

 

 

Story goes that every May 6, around noon, the sun casts a light right through the dome’s center where an altar dedicated to American and Filipino soldiers is located. May 6 happens to be the date when General Wainwright surrendered the island fortress to the Japanese. Another story is that the nearby pre-war movie theatre — Cine Corregidor, now in ruins — had “Gone With the Wind” as the last movie shown. At the time we visited, it looks like some restoration work is ongoing. Hopefully, the theater can be restored soon to warrant another visit.

 

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Cine Corregidor. Now undergoing renovation/restoration work.

 

The tour ends with lunch at the Corregidor Inn’s La Playa Restaurant. Lunch is likewise included in the P2,200 ferry and tour package. We took ours after the visit to Malinta Tunnel and the Lighthouse. All told, it’s good value for money. Especially if you have Estela Cordova for a guide.  If only it wasn’t soooo HOT. I wonder if it ever gets cooler here. You see, Corregidor is actually part of the caldera of a now dormant volcano. NOT EXTINCT, but dormant. Like Mount Pinatubo. But unlike Pinatubo which was dormant for a hundred years before its 1991 eruption, Corregidor has been dormant for a million years. 🙂

 

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The Lighthouse. Check out those latitudes!

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Inside Malinta Tunnel. Light and Sound Show for an additional P150.

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Visible is Caballo Island, just some kms away.


Tagaytay has always been a favorite day trip and weekend destination. Just an hour and a half drive south of Manila. What new things can we do here? It wasn’t like we needed a new adventure. Perhaps we just needed to be someplace cooler where we can be together and be a family.

 

 

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We booked ourselves at Tagaytay Crosswinds Resort Suites. There are other new hotels in the area but we liked the idea of having our own condo-like suite where we can actually cook in. That meant doing our groceries in a nearby supermarket to buy steaks and chops, corn and rice. The not-so-little ones loved our steak dinner much and the idea that we can actually cook in!

 

 

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The suites are complete with kitchen essentials from rice cooker to frying pans. The elves watched TV while we prepared dinner. There isn’t much to do after, so we got busy with our iPads and iTouch after 😊. I skipped breakfast the morning after, choosing to have an extra hour of sleep. Breakfast was served in a hall in the next building. Hopefully, Crosswinds will have a new dining destination within its complex the next time we visit. That, plus wifi INSIDE the suites.

 

 

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You don’t get a view of Taal Volcano from your room nor anywhere within Crosswinds area, but you may enjoy an early morning walk around. Pine trees everywhere and the cool breeze make you feel you’re somewhere near Baguio. Since the hotel is right within Crosswinds (the subdivision), it’s more quiet and peaceful here. Of course you can always drive out to dine in any of the many bistros and cafes along the Ridge.

 

 

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All my life, I have only owned 4 cameras. Imagine me traveling with only a disposable cam before. No wonder I had very few shots — all blurry — back then when everything was an adventure. Many first times then, largely undocumented. A pity.

Twilight in Donsol, Sorsogon, Philippines

I owned my first digicam only in 2004. Away with trips to the photo shop to have my films developed. Away with photo albums. These days, we simply just snap away and store what we like and delete the rest. I look at others and at times, feel envy watching them change their lens, set up their tripods and the like —- all for a better shot. I don’t have that option. My bad neck and shoulder won’t let me carry all that weight around my neck nor balance that cam even with 2 hands. Thanks to many photo editing apps, I am now able to “improve” even bad shots taken on a whim.

BenCab Museum Garden in Baguio City

Traveling around the Philippines, I began to appreciate my new Canon G12. It’s light and easy to operate. I set the cam on automatic and it makes all the decisions for me. Other times, I pretend to know my stuff and tinker with the camera. I sometimes end up with better shots but most of the time, you couldn’t tell whether I set it on automatic or not. 🙂

The Face Masks @Balaw Balaw Restaurant in Angono, Rizal

There is no reason to complain. I do not have to tote around a heavy DLSR and adjust my lens or set up a tripod. God knows I’d easily lose patience and interest if I have to go through all these steps just for a good shot. It is enough that I find something worth photographing as a memory aide so I can revisit my fond memories anytime I choose. When I am in the mood, I would choose an angle or several angles to take a photo. Often, I love taking distant and close-up shots of a place. Human interest shots are swell, but they come and go. One has to have quick hands to get the cam ready or you lose the moment. I have been lucky with a few. But they are few.

The Street Vendors of Quiapo, Manila

Wish there were more.

Sheltered, Educated, Loved. These are the boys of St Martin de Tours in Bustos, Bulacan.