Category: Philippine Travels



Many would remember it as that restaurant where Pinoy, Chinoy, and Tisoy cuisines merged, and which became a landmark off Echague Street. While it has since moved to 750 Florentino Torres near C.M.Recto and Soler Streets, the aura remains the same. It helps that the furniture exudes the same illustrado character, where an Amorsolo-ish painting hangs on one side of the wall Β and where menu offerings are written in chalk on boards hanging on another side.

 

 

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And there’s that lone boar tied to the door…………. Could that be “Liempo” or “Pork Chop”?

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Ambos Mundos. Claims to be the oldest resto in the Philippines. 1888

 

 

The “best of both worlds”. East and West? Ambos Mundos. I can imagine men in tailored suits (yes, they really dressed up back when Recto Avenue was still called Azcarraga) dining here. Perhaps feasting on either Paella Ambos or Morisqueta Tostada. Or would it be Lengua or Buntot Estofada? Many Filipinos think of Callos and Morcon as “fiesta fare” — special dishes served whenever there is reason or an occasion to celebrate. In the same breadth, Filipinos likewise drool over their favorite local food, and by that, I mean favorite local Filipino and Chinese food. Crispy Pata, Bulalo, Lumpia Ubod, Pancit Bijon, Asado, etcetera!

 

 

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That menu is a real fusion of Chinoy, Pinoy and Tisoy Cuisines.

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Chinoy or Pinoy or Tisoy Cuisine in Ambos Mundos. 1888

 

 

Is it really the oldest restaurant in the country?Β  Both Ambos Mundos and Panciteria Toho Antigua claim to be the oldest, having operated since 1888. Who’s to tell? Both were my childhood favorites, by the way. But where Toho appears like many other old Chinese restaurants, Ambos Mundos has an altogether different charm. Very old world. Complete with pot-bellied black pigs tied to its front doors! (A recent addition, I suspect) Some keep pet dogs. Or pet kittens. But pet boars? We’re told they’re there for good luck. There must be a grain of truth in that. After all, they’ve been around since 1888!

 

 

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My 2 amigas eagerly wait for our order of Morisqueta Tostada, Lengua Estofado and Patatas con Giniling.

 

 

See you again, “Liempo” and “Pork Chop”! We weren’t very happy with the Morisqueta Tostada, Lengua Estofado and Patatas con Giniling that we ordered — not as good as I remember πŸ˜‰ — but we’re willing to try the other dishes next time we visit. πŸ˜‰ OINK OINK

 

 

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Another set of pet boars just across the street in Wah Sun, same owners. A Gaudinez married into the Leung Family who owns this Chinese resto since 1955.

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They say you can order from either/both menus of Ambos Mundos and Wah Sun across the street. Same owners.

 

 

Addendum: This is even more interesting. Thanks to Teresa Gaudinez-Martinez, I now have a chance to straighten out some “kinks” and misinformation in this blog. Foremost is that THIS IS NOT THE AUTHENTIC AMBOS MUNDOS RESTAURANT. “Both Worlds” (Ambos Mundos) refer to Spanish and Filipino cuisines. NEVER INCLUDED CHINESE CUISINE. Huh? And there was NEVER A PET BOAR outside the restaurant. Huh again! Teresa, I have read all your blogs and sympathize with your legal woes. Obviously, there’s a long story fraught with family, legal, proprietary rights issues here. Thank you for taking the time to make the corrections. To our readers, here’s the link to Teresa’s Ambos Mundos blogs.


Thought I’d line up my blogs on “walks and drives” around Manila for those who are interested. In many of these walks and drives, a good 4 hours may be enough. Likely less if you just want to concentrate on a certain area. You can walk around, hop on and off your car or some public transport, combine 2 trips and plan a good lunch in-between, or simply visit a Museum to linger for the next couple of hours. If you’re with children, I’d most certainly advise planning a good meal after 2 hours or so. Attention span and all, you know. A good meal never fails, and I’d usually have the first leg as the “more serious walk through history” and make sure the 2nd post-meal leg involves some window shopping (a.k.a. “Street desserts” and other sweet munchies) or less serious history stuff or simply more open spaces.

 

 

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HERITAGE SITES/HISTORICAL LANDMARKS

Quiapo!

Say Hello to “Mi Ultimo Adios”

San Agustin Church in Intramuros

Four Hours To Waste in Manila

Some Photographs From Manila

Universidad de Santo Tomas (UST)

Baluarte De San Diego in Intramuros

Paco Park

 

MUSEUMS

Dummy Goes To The National Museum

National Art Gallery: Searching For More Lunas

Up Close: Luna and Hidalgo

Hidalgo and Luna: Genius Has No Country

 

CEMETERY TOURS

A Preview of the Cemetery Tour: Wait Till The Shoe Lady Dies

The Old (and Dead) Rich of La Loma

A Nearly-Forgotten Panchong in North Cemetery

 

SUBURBIAN MANILA

Angono: Art Capital of thePhilippines

Silangan Gardens and Pinto Art Gallery

Antipolo’s Suman, Kasuy and Pan Lechon?

 

 

CHINATOWN & Other sites

A Walking Tour of Binondo

Binondo Walk With Kids

The Street Vendors Of Manila

Harbour Square in CCP Complex

 

 

Urban Escapades

Weekend At The Pen

HOTEL CELESTE: A Pleasant Staycation

 

 

PINOY DINING 101

Just How Do You Eat Alagao?

What To Feed Your Guests (Part 1)

What To Feed Your Guests (Part 2)

Vieux Chalet in Antipolo

Pinoy Ice Cream? Check This Out!

 


 

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There was a time when I’d compare travel packages to southeast Asian neighbors against domestic destinations. Because there were promo packages to Hongkong, Macau, Taipei, Bangkok and Vietnam, it was agonizing to choose to go instead to El Nido, Batanes or elsewhere you can fly to within the country.

 

 

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No, I don’t feel the need to have my passport stamped. Nor do I feel “shortchanged” spending more for a local trip. I’m simply a sucker for COLD WEATHER. So with my family. We love getting all “wrapped up” for a few days, layering up and enjoying no-sweat days.

 

 

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When we do travel around the Philippines, we marvel at the local scenery. Our landscapes and seascapes are so beautiful that some are wont to exclaim “Parang Hindi Pilipinas” (It’s like it’s NOT the Philippines). This is said in the same breadth as “Only in the Philippines” whenever one finds something utterly WRONG. I’m curious how and why such is the attitude. Why can’t something so beautiful belong to the Philippines? Why is it that something so bad is accepted to be particular to this country?

 

 

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Next time you travel, don’t hesitate to spend on and in your own country. Who knows? A pleasant surprise may be waiting for you πŸ™‚

 

A wise traveler never despises his own country. – Carlo Goldoni

 


It was a day spent visiting cemeteries. It may not sound exciting to many, but oddly enough, the cemetery tour was packed with so much history. Not the oldest, but North Cemetery certainly is the biggest at 54 hectares. Like an open air museum, we marveled that such reminders of our past are contained in hectares upon hectares of land within our densely packed metropolis.

 

 

When we saw the Mausoleum dedicated to our veterans, I couldn’t help but compare it with the Pantheons found in Europe. Yes, it pales in comparison, for sure. But the architecture reminds you how and why pantheons are built. This pantheon — or “panchong” in our local dialect — honors our Katipuneros who shed blood so present-day Filipinos can have the freedom we now enjoy. Looking at it now, one laments how these revolutionary patriots are nearly forgotten.

 

 

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Like this pantheon, there are other reminders of our patriots and leaders, honored at least for a single day within a year. North Cemetery has become the resting place of past Presidents, celebrities and prominent families. Just like the nearby La Loma Cemetery, architecture flourished in this area.

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It would be interesting to draw up a list of graves whose “tenants” now grace some street signs around Manila. The place also counts resting places of past Presidents and national leaders. In particular, there’s one Presidential tomb site which included a resting place for the Presidential dog. “Bogie” must have been so loved by the family of ex-President Manuel A. Roxas to rest beside the Roxas patriarch.

 

 

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And in case you’re wondering why there are fire hydrants scattered in a patch of land here, this happens to be the resting place of firemen. Remember that the North Cemetery was created during the American occupation, so don’t be surprised to find the statue of an American (or Irish?) fireman here.

 

 

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And lest you forget….. Long before Manny Pacquiao and Flash Elorde, there was Pancho Villa. This boxing legend was never beaten in the ring but many would argue that’s because he had a short lived boxing career. Unfortunately for this young lad, he was knocked out at the early age of 23. Not of a 1-2 punch nor boxing-related ailment, but of complications resulting from a tooth extraction!

 

 

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Not too any Filipinos would remember that the Manila Cemeteries also served as execution sites for those who resisted the Japanese Occupation. Among those is Josefa Escoda, founder of the Girl Scouts of the Philippines and many other unknown heroes. A monument now stands here to honor them.

 

 

As for that last photo. Pyramids and sphinx — this is the resting place for the Arroyos. Last interred here was Cong. Iggy Arroyo a.k.a. Jose Pidal.

 



Balikbayans (literally “balik” means return; “bayan” means country) and foreign guests should share the same list. After all, who better to promote the Philippines abroad other than our very own “kababayans” (fellow countrymen). The balikbayans or returning/holidaying countrymen have conjured up images of local foods they must try/taste long before their arrival. You see, food images can either excite you or leave you in despair.

 

 

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Rice Cakes with Dessicated Coconut, locally called “bibingka”.

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Puto Bumbong.

 

 

I have several circles of friends — from childhood, school, office as well as those I’ve met and kept in my travels. Invariably, balikbayans hanker for the same food list. Deprive them and they’d have a bad holiday. As for the foreign guests, why force them to eat “balut” (duck embryo) when many Filipinos feel grossed out with such? There are many Pinoy dishes without the necessary Fear Factor-ish controversy. So, indulge them with:

 

#1: Bibingka and Puto Bumbong

 

I always bring my guests to Via Mare for their bibingka and puto bumbong fix. We are rice eaters like many others in Asia. So it comes as no surprise to find the equivalent of suman, puto and kutsinta in other parts of Asia. But i found none similar to our bibingka and puto bumbong. If there are, I have not seen nor tried them. So, how about introducing these rice-based eats to our guests?

 

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Puto, Kutsinta and Suman

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Mangoes — green and ripe, Chico, Durian, and other local fruits.

 

 

#2 Local Fruits: Manila Mangoes, Durian, Marang, Chico, Dalandan, Balimbing, Coconuts

 

Remember how we drool just thinking of cherries, persimmons, dragon fruits, naranjas, grapes, etc? Carnivores and vegans alike would most certainly be interested in our local fruits. No “eww factor” and it won’t cost you big time! And how about sweetened and candied fruits? I can think of our dried mangoes, condol and pineapples.

 

 

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Halo Halo from Razon’s.

 

 

#3 Halo Halo

 

Halo Halo is not exclusive to the Philippines. Fruits with ice shavings can likewise be found in Japan, Vietnam, and elsewhere. But ours is unique because of its toppings.

 

Halo-Halo combines many of our sweetened fruits along with the very local yam (Ube) and Leche flan. Now, wouldn’t these choices be lots better than the “balut”? (By the way, they also have “balut” in Cambodia but locals there would not have it at the top of the list of must-try dishes.) Halo Halo sells for as low as 20 pesos (San Andres Market), maybe lower in the provinces. A humongous serving can be had in Manila Peninsula, but it will cost you. Me? I’m quite happy with Digman’s halo halo or the finer ice shavings and simpler (aka fewer but yummy ingredients) halo halo from Razon’s. Many local eateries also offer this as “merienda” (snacks) or as dessert.

 

 

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Pancit Luglog

 

 

#4 Pancit Luglog or Pancit Palabok

 

Noodles. Italian pasta, Chinese Pancit, Korean Chap Chae, Japanese soba. All noodles.

 

What have we got that’s different from the rest? Palabok or Luglug, or even Pancit Malabon. The sauce base is different. Color is different. Toppings are different, especially if you load up with crushed chicharon. And don’t you just love how the sliced, boiled eggs sitting side by side with the squids, oysters and squid rings take center stage?


[The list continues….. Watch this page]

 

 


What is it, really? Would you go for the baked goodies (think HOPIA)? Or for the spruced up garden overlooking the hills?

 

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Santa is in Baker’s Hill, Puerto Princesa!

 

 

It was still the Christmas Season, so the garden and pseudo-park is decorated with American holiday decor from Santa Claus to a giant pine tree to Marilyn Monroe in Christmas red. (Well actually, Marilyn M stays even after the holidays to keep the Walt Disney (or is it Looney Tunes?) characters company for the rest of the year. A Mini-Theme Park! And no admission fee. Free!

 

 

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Marilyn Monroe in Christmas Red. She’s a permanent fixture here.

 

 

It’s been sometime since I last visited. A pleasant surprise….. but they’ve expanded the garden and it’s certainly a good place to while away the time. There’s a good breeze and the panorama from the promontory at the end of the garden offers a respite after an exciting underground river tour from nearby Sabang. Well, just don’t mind the talking bird who wouldnt shut up near the area where they keep the peacocks.

 

 

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Christmas in Baker’s Hill.

 

 

Tamilok, anyone? Ain’t that brave. Fear Factor enthusiasts and fans may try these wood worms here. Prepared raw, “cooked” by marinating in vinegar. Tastes like oysters, they say. I may have tried it though if not for this bum stomach. Couldn’t risk it as there’s a flight to catch.

 

 

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Yeah. Woodworms. Fear Factor-ish.

 

 

Well, there are other choices. Baker’s Hill is really more than just a bake shop. It’s an amusement park, mini-zoo, restaurant row all rolled into a single place. Try the halo halo (literally means “mix mix”) for snacks or dessert. As for me? I would rather try one of the pizzas.

 

 

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Choose your pizza!

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And this theme park is free!

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Who lives here?


Believe it or not, I have a very uneventful life when I’m back in the city, especially after a holiday. My room is my refuge. No, my sanctuary. Waking up late is a luxury I indulge in. And those mornings I wake up early and unintentionally (is it really age that turns up our body clock earlier than desired?), I putter around my room like a headless chicken. As soon as I take my morning pills and after saying my thanksgiving prayers for preserving me through the night, I get busy with my coffee.

 

 

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First Chore of the Day

 

 

I take pains preparing my coffee. Seriously. My friends gift me with bags of coffee BEANS (not ground coffee!) and past Christmas, I still have a couple of bags to grind and brew. As my coffee machine whirls to a familiar hum, I upload old photos to my Flickr account. It’s been awhile.

 

 

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Uploading in my Flickr account. All that for posterity!

 

 

It’s a good way to beat holiday hangovers. The sun and sands of Palawan still fill my mind, and travel plans for 2013 bug me like a bee. But these photos….. They reminded me of my romance with doors and windows. It’s a never-ending affair . Guess I love the sense of knowing there’s something — almost like a mystery — behind the doors and windows. Pretty much how I feel starting this new year 2013. Que Sera, Sera.

 

 

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A Door in Casa Batllo in Barcelona, Spain

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If you’re in Casa Batllo, Gaudi’s windows cannot be missed!

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Door to one of the stalls in The Collective. Malugay Street. Makati.

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Imagine looking out these arched windows like a monarch. Segovia Alcazar. Spain.

 

 

Flickr uploading proceeds on cue as the machine grinds the beans. As brewing starts, I press to upload more pics. Before the cup is drained of my favorite bev, the photos are done. Before hitting the showers, I’ve decided how the day would play out. It should be another fine, boring day.Β 

 

 

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Door to a Nunnery in Bhutan.

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Door to A Crypt in Almudena Cathedral. Madrid, Spain.


You don’t need to be a swimmer to enjoy the beaches. I’m NOT. But I do enjoy the feel of sand between my toes. The sun doesn’t scare me — sunscreen lotions are my allies. And I don’t mind bad hair days as sea breeze salt and dry my hair. My “elves” remind me I am starting to look like a starfish, drawing laughter from the rest of the brats. So you can say I don’t mind being a laughingstock too during my “sun and sand” adventures.

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No crowds. No touts. Just the sun, sand and the waves rushing to shore.

 

 

It took us a whole hour from El Nido town proper to get here. Unpaved roads, no directional signs, remote to a point you get a sense you’re lost if not for our van driver who claims to know the place. No establishments here. No crowds. No touts. Just a lone stone rest house reportedly owned by a German married to a Filipina. White sandy beach stretching some 4 or so kilometers. At one end, one can cross over to another beach where the water is calmer. Climb up a hill and you get the entire panorama of the twin beaches of Nacpan and Calitang.

 

 

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Check out that lone stone resthouse behind the coconut trees.

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Behind these coconut trees is another beach.

 

 

Except for 3 pairs of motorcycling tourists Β (how did they get here?), we “owned” the beach! We have arranged with a B & B in El Nido for this private tour. They have a hut here and so the package included van transfers and a good lunch of grilled fish, chicken barbecue and a generous serving of fried noodles sautΓ©ed in shrimps, pork bits and veggies. We watched the waves while enjoying our watermelons and pineapples. For 700 pesos per pax, it’s a good deal.

 

 

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Barbecued chicken, grilled fish, fried noodles with lotsa shrimps, pork bits and veggies. Onion and Soy Sauce to go with the dishes.

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Fresh watermelons, pineapples and coconuts.

 

 

And there’s the local flavor. Every now and then, a carabao (water buffalo) would pass by as our van driver harvest some coconuts for us. The crab “box” nets fronting the native huts and the boats resting by the shoreline evoke images of simple lives. I can’t help thinking how urbanites work like horses, save like a Scrooge and then blow away their savings just to experience island life. What irony!

 

 

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Crab catchers?

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The Island Life?

 

 

What a wonderful day spent here! I can’t say I can live here. We’re city people who love Internet connections (how else do i blog without it?), going to the movies and dining out. But we also love the beach life from time to time. If only to break the routine, nourish the soul, and simply bond together. After all, aside from “playing together”, vacations meant eating ALL meals together. A luxury we hardly enjoy back in the urban jungle where everyone is rushing to work or school, or too tired for an evening chat after school and work. I should know. I’m HOME ALONE most times, unless my itchy feet take me somewhere more exciting πŸ˜‰

 

 

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Truly. Paraiso (Paradise) in El Nido!

 

 

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We’re back from a wonderful family vacay in El Nido. We bucked the typhoon, clutched our life vests tight, sailed on rolling waves and island hopped the whole day. But for one regret, everything was fine…… power failures notwithstanding.

 

 

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That crack in the limestone wall is the opening to the Small Lagoon. Either you swim through it (water gets deeper as you approach) or kayak your way in.

Miniloc Island’s Small Lagoon was such a pleasant surprise. Off the boat, we waded in waist-deep waters to get through a small opening — where it gets deeper –through which Kayakers breezed through and into the small lagoon. Past this opening, it gets shallower, and then deeper once more and one needs to swim all the way in. Easy to spot the non-swimmers at this point. Life vests identify them. Spot me in my orange vest!

 

 

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Spot the non-swimmers!

 

 

It was delightful to see our teenage girl swimming around the lagoon. While we struggled getting into a tiny cave within the lagoon, she confidently did away with her life vest and had a time of her life. Too bad the low tide and the numerous sea urchins in the Big Lagoon didn’t promise to be another swimming episode for her.

 

 

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Low Tide in Big Lagoon

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Sea Urchins galore!

 

 

We waded in knee-deep waters while dragging the boat deeper into the lagoon. Looking back, we were awed by the amazing sight of limestone walls and cliffs through which the waters flowed, calmed down, and sort of settled. Paradise!

 

 

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Time enough to look back where we passed between 2 cliffs to get inside Big Lagoon.

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Paraiso!


While I’m all done with my yearender phlog, I have yet to draw up my 2013 Travel Calendar. Got to say…… This time around, all planning went out the window. Zilch. No plans. But I do have a bucket list.

 

 

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MACCHU PICCHU. Photo sourced from the Net.

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IGUASSU FALLS. Photo sourced from the Net.

 

 

South America in my mind. Has been for a lonnnnnng while. I missed the trip to Macchu Picchu with my friends last April 2012 as I was still based in Madrid then. Not sure if I can finally realize this dream before I turn “senior” later this year. My major concern here is the timing. April seems like a good month to go. But who’s coming with me? The trip requires quite a bit of planning and funding, as well as a high energy level. I reckon this is something I’ve got to do while my legs are still good. (Does that now explain my hike up Bhutan’s Tiger Nest Monastery and the recent “conquest” of Sagada’s SUMAGUING Cave?)

 

 

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Hi Everyone! Thanks for dropping by. You may of course subscribe to this blogsite to get regular updates. Ta Ta!

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In my book, the best beach. Ever.

 

 

But I started early with my local destinations this 2013. Finally, I struck El Nido off my bucket list! Did Tours A and B covering some 10 islands, though 5 of those would have been enough to keep me smiling for some time. As a bonus, I even managed to see the twin beaches of Nacpan and Calitang. Now, these beaches are truly must-sees but at the same time, I have concerns it may turn into another “Boracay”. Hopefully not. I brought my entire family to Boracay years before tourists came but subsequent visits ended in disappointments over how local authorities irresponsibly tramped up the place. But I digress….. Back to my travel plans πŸ˜‰

 

 

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BATANES ISLAND. Photo sourced from the Net.

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MOUNT PINATUBO. Photo sourced from the Net.

 

 

I’m booked to go to Batanes this March. Wish me luck. Stories about that treacherous boat ride to Sabtang Island give me nightmares. And a second visit to Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar in Bagac, Bataan. I blogged about my first visit and that blog seems to be a magnet for controversy. Different folks, different strokes. I’ve said my piece on this. Just check out my post as I don’t wish to repeat it here. Again, I digress. My apologies 😦

 

 

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My most controversial blog is about Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar, a collection of heirloom structures from all over the country and reassembled here in Bagac, Bataan.

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Stingless Jelly Fish in Bucas Grande Island in Siargao? Photo sourced from the Net.

 

 

Before then, I hope to be able to trek to the Mount Pinatubo Crater. Maybe this February. And then there’s a couple more local destinations I want to do with family and friends. Topping the list is Siargao. Not to surf, but to check out the non-stinging jellyfish off Bucas Grande Island near Siargao Island. Remind me to research on what’s the best time to visit. πŸ™‚

 

 

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There is so much more, here and abroad. At home, I have missed Kapurpurawan Cave when my family spent a long weekend in Ilocos up north. We also missed Caramoan Island when we did the road trip to Bicol. That, along with the Tulapos Marine Sanctuary in Sorsogon. I skipped a visit to Guimaras Island in my Iloilo trips. Likewise with Camiguin Island in my several trips to Cagayan de Oro City.

With 7,107 Philippine Islands, I am drawn to the tiniest in the Visayas Region — the mystical Siquijor Island. Also heard much about the Biri Rock Formation in Northern Samar while I am still grappling with my anxieties in even considering Tawi-Tawi Island. I have read the wonderful blogs of my young friends from the Net and feel pangs of jealousy over their adrenaline-pumping adventures and boundless energy and enthusiasm. Before we even notice, another year would be over. I should find myself back in Madrid to spend autumn and winter. Christmas and New Year 2014 in the land of cochinillo, jamon y quezos.Β  Β Not the best time to do my long-planned Camino de Santiago. Winter is my worst enemy. Think body aches and atrophied knees. Well, let’s see how this year 2013 goes. Vale!