Category: Philippine Travels


The Last Caretaker at Syquia Mansion

Filed under: Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 10 Comments
August 13, 2011

His name is Rusty.  We met him when we decided to visit the Syquia Mansion without an appointment. We are not sure if we needed to make one.  But we were a group of 12 pax, and so we thought it would be worth his while to give us a guided tour. Besides, how can he refuse my 2 “elves”?

Gathered on the 2nd floor of the Mansion,  Rusty immediately went into Tour Guide mode.  He was very systematic. Laid down the rules early on.  He reminded everyone to stay together;  no one should stray away as we move from hall to hall, from room to room.  No camwhoring while tour is underway.  Photos can be taken only AFTER his monologue. One can ask questions, but no one should touch anything. 

I’ve met these types.  And love them all.  Stickler for rules.  Efficient. Passionate with what they do. Fierce! And they know exactly what information to dish out to perk up our interest as we move around the heritage house. 

Rusty belongs to a family of caretakers.  He is 5th generation and being single,  he claims to be the last caretaker from the same family taking care of the Mansion.  He lives here. Alone.  He is not young anymore, and when he goes,  we wonder who would dare take his place.  It’s a beautiful house.  But we all found it a little creepy.  When asked,  Rusty admitted to “faint” creepy stuff happening in this Mansion during his watch.  Yay!

Rusty started off by pointing out the “holes” strategically located around the Mansion. The first hole is on the floor, to peek newly-arrived visitors in the ground floor of the Mansion.   When deemed “worthy”, the guests are then led to a receiving anteroom upstairs.   From where they are seated,  another peep-hole is used to check if the same guests are “worthy” to enter through the Main Door and into the sala or living room of the Mansion. My “elves” love this trivia about lifestyles and practices back then.

As “worthy guests”, we were first shown the most precious antique piece in the house. A Ming Dynasty vase made of silver graced a round table in the anteroom.  Its ‘twin vase’ graces another round table inside the living room, but its beauty and importance is overshadowed by a painting of the lady of the house, resplendent in her pink gown. This lady is Vicky, the daughter of former president Elpidio Quirino, a widower when he assumed the presidency of the republic.  His daughter is thus the youngest ever First Lady of the country. In fact, the only teenage First Lady I know. She is also the only First Lady who got married.  Not being a Presidential Spouse, Vicky married Luis Gonzales of Pangasinan when she turned 19, with whom she had 3 daughters and 1 son, Louie, whom many know as the man who married Kuh Ledesma.  Luis died and left Vicky a widow in 1984.  Vicky then remarried a man by the name of Don Paco Delgado, a shipping magnate.  This marriage was marred by tragedy and a lot of controversies which haunt the descendants to this day.  But that’s another story, isn’t it? 

Glibly referred to as the Quirino Mansion, this heritage house was actually inherited by the wife of Elpidio Quirino, the very first Ilocano President.  From the Chinese family of Sy Kia,  the house was passed on to Dona Alicia, who unfortunately died during the Second World War , along with 3 of their 5 children, while fleeing their home. This widower was subsequently sworn in as the 6th President 2 days after then President Manuel Roxas died in 1948. 

This is the corridor where household staff pass......

Rusty informed us that the Mansion belongs to no single person, but instead to all the surviving heirs of the Quirino clan. While not one of the heirs live here,  Rusty claims there are enough affairs held here to keep them all busy.  No wonder the Mansion has a more “modern” and functioning kitchen that looks out to a patio and a fountain.  I can just imagine the parties held here.  I just wonder if any of the guests stay behind to spend a night or two here.  Surely, the big beds in the bedrooms can accommodate them. 🙂

 

 

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Antipolo: Suman, Mangga, Kasuy & Pan-Lechon?

Filed under: Don't Skip Manila!, Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 14 Comments
August 11, 2011

I have not heard of a Sumaka Festival celebrated every 1st of May.  But now I know it stands for SUman, MAngga, KAsuy.  SU.MA.KA.   Others refer to it as the SUMAKAH Festival, the extra H for Hamaka or “hammock”  or slings tied to a bamboo pole where ladies are carried in the olden days. Hmmm, I wouldn’t mind a hamaka ride like that!

 

Long before I started going to school,  my family would make this annual pilgrimage to the Virgin of Antipolo.  Little did I know that she was the Lady of Peace and Good Voyage.  It was enough that I prayed to her as the Virgin of Antipolo and that soon after hearing mass in the Church,  I would be treated to a lunch of lechon.  Take-outs would include kasuy,  bunches of suman and baskets of mangoes.  Yes, during those days the mangoes were sold by the baskets rather than by the kilo.  

A trip to Antipolo in my early years also meant a day at Hinulugang Taktak.  But the falls have long gone and dried up,  I hear.  These days,  a trip to Antipolo simply meant a visit to the Cathedral,  perhaps lunch at either Crescent Moon Cafe or in Vieux Chalet — 2 of Antipolo’s “hidden secrets”—- or a visit to the Silangan Gardens and Pinto Art Museum  or more simply a visit to stock up on suman, mangga, kasuy AND MORE! What more?

This time around,  we found ourselves making this quick dash to this hole-in-wall bakery before heading home.  Here, you can buy the pan de lechon.  Pan de what? Perhaps , a photo would better explain what we came here to buy. Photo below is the best seller of Dumalaon Bakery  in Antipolo City.

The "animal breads" of Dumalaon Bakery

Aside from the Pan de Lechon,  there were also breads shaped like a crab, a fish, a prawn, a crocodile and a bunch of bananas!  I lined up to buy and was pleasantly surprised to learn they sell for only P10 a piece.   I gave a P100 bill and the lady said she has no change.  So I ended up buying 10 pieces of different forms and shapes.  🙂

Would You Still Eat Them? P10 a piece. P20 for the bigger ones.

Cute-sy, don’t you agree? If you can’t afford to buy a lechon, whole or by the kilo,  buy the bread! It’s healthier 😉

Driving Directions:  From Sumulong Highway, you’d reach a fork : turning right will take you to taktak road  (Vieux Chalet!) while  going straight takes you to the Antipolo Church. TURN LEFT here.  The road is part of the circumferential road commonly called  “siete medya” (don’t ask me why) by the locals. After turning left at the intersection, just drive past some 3 blocks and look out for  the bakery on your right side.  It looks more like a sari-sari store. Naaah, it is a sari-sari store along a very busy road. Exact address is  257 Circumferential Road, Barangay San Isidro, Antipolo City. It is also near Crescent Moon Cafe (where you find the Alagao rolls or lumpia — check out my other blog)

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Vieux Chalet in Antipolo: A Worthy Detour

Filed under: Don't Skip Manila!, Food Trip, Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 4 Comments
August 10, 2011

Going to Antipolo?  Filipinos have this tradition of visiting the Antipolo Church especially right before a major trip.  Our Lady of Peace and Good Voyage is a national shrine.  A pilgrimage site for every O.F.W. just before leaving the homeland.  

So, how about a nice detour?  A Swiss Chalet in Antipolo? What do you know………..

Antipolo Church

Inside the Our Lady of Peace and Good Voyage Church in Antipolo

This dining place is owned by the family of Susan Hassig, a Filipina married to Tony Hassig, a Swiss national. In operation for more than 2 decades now, I remember many breakfasts and early dinners here.  Solo.  At the time,  I was still working and branch visits are my daily fare.  On way to or from Tanay and other parts of Rizal,  I would drive out early to enjoy a peaceful breakfast here.  Or drop by before driving home for a panoramic and illuminated view of the city.  Each visit,  the waiter would ask me if I want the table for two in some corner with a view of the mountains.  Perfect view while sipping a good cup of brew. Invariably, my answer is “I want the table, but I’m eating alone”.   This exchange between the waiter and myself must have caught the attention of the owner such that when the same fellow asked me for the nth time,  the owner loudly said “The lady enjoys dining  ALONE”.  A wink there, and that ends the discussion. 🙂

Inside Vieux Chalet

Since I quit my job,  I have not been to Vieux Chalet.  But I certainly have fond memories of my breakfasts and early dinners there and the tranquility offered by the mountain vistas. You may think this  petty or trivial,  but this place fries my eggs exactly the way I want it…….NOT so in many breakfast places I have tried.  Nor can I forget the raclette or pate de foie. The only problem with eating alone in this place is that I never got to order the Cheese Fondue as I have no one to share it with.  So with the pizza.  😦  

But I digress. This time around,  I found myself back in this lovely Swiss Chalet mid-afternoon of a weekday.  It wasn’t a busy hour.  I found the place almost exactly the way I remembered it.  Even the shade of brown of its tables and chairs is the same familiar shade.  De ja vu.

It Was Sooo Good I Forgot What It Was Called!

I was surprised to learn that they now run Wellness Sessions.  Well, not actually surprised.  The place and the vista is perfect for just this kind of activity.  It has to be arranged though, as with any parties, retreats or family reunions you may plan to hold in this place. As for me, I’d be quite content to spend a quiet afternoon here, sipping my coffee and enjoying my mid-afternoon delights:  D.E.S.S.E.R.T.S !  

Susan and her daughters run the place now.   If you want to dine here, or to ask for directions on how to get here, call Vieux Chalet, 697-0396 or 344-5056  or Susan Hassig’s cellphone, 0917-856-5175. Do make those reservations as the place has quite a limited space.  I’d say just a dozen tables and of course, the ones with a view of the city lights are premium tables.  Don’t do it the way I did,  go with company. Many dishes are best shared, like the salads, pizzas and sausage and cheese platters. Getting there is quite challenging, but Susan offers these driving directions:

If you’re coming from Ortigas Center, you can take Ortigas Avenue going up to Antipolo. Ortigas Ave. Extension (from Robinson’s Galleria) ends at the fork marked by an island across from Ynares Center, with statues of the Filipinos of olden days. 

Please take the left branch of the  fork. Soon you’ll see on your left a gas station, USA88. Turn left there and keep driving on and then keep right when the road forks once more. Drive down this road and you will see the arch with names of several resorts. Go through the arch and drive down keeping left until you reach Purok Sampaguita gate, which is always half-closed. Go in and keep moving on the road toturn right uphill at the second corner. You’ll then see Vieux Chalet directional arrows and signs along the way.

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Yee-haw, It’s Marlboro Country in Abra!

Filed under: Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 4 Comments

(This is one trip I totally forgot to blog about.  Years old, really.  In one photo, you’d even find campaign streamer of Fernando Poe, Jr. running for President back in 2004. Yeah, that old.  )

How did we end up here? Manila to Bangued, Abra took all of ten hours. Our butts hurt from all that confinement in the car. All 7 of us packed like sardines inside a van. We had some stopovers in La Union to empty our bladders and line our stomachs for the next leg of our journey. But the views did not disappoint. Abra is very very raw. Very agricultural. Very provencale.

The Mountains of Abra

 

We do not think the pictures do justice. But we have good memories of the place. We stayed in a hotel with a porch that offers the view above.  Big room good for 4 – 5 pax, all for P1,500. Not bad. 

 

Our Hotel in Abra

 

So, back to the question :  How did we end up here?   My long time housemate of more than 10 years decided to get hitched. An orphan, Mercy is like my “adopted daughter” who looks after my family which includes 2 “elves” 🙂  When she decided to get married to her Abra-based hubby, we planned on accompanying her on this trip to join her hubby.  We packed the van and prepared ourselves for the 10 hour journey.  There was time to break the journey at La Union in a beach resort I can’t recall now.

 

Abra Kids

 

As we drove farther and farther away from Manila,  we became more and more aware of how far removed this place is from the rest of the country.  From the verdant fields of Central Luzon,  the mountains farther North rendered the fields drier, the air dustier. Soon,  we were driving along lonely paved roads , meeting  local folks straddled on horses and kids playing , running along highways with complete abandon and utter disregard of motorists.   Mats laid out on the main streets laden with palay.   Old men and women with swarthy complexion effortlessly bearing baskets heavy with farm harvests.  As we looked around, we sensed how life must be difficult in this area.

 

 

 

We know very little about Abra, except that it is among those provinces named among the hot spots every election period.  Violence is daily fare.  We asked some of the locals , who seem to have outgrown fear like it is a condition of life in this neck of the woods. Armed goons come a-knocking in the middle of the night just to ask them who they are voting for.  Election has long gone,  but the specter of violence has sown fear in the hearts of many residents here.   As we walked gingerly along farm trails , we passed many curious neighbors and kids who stopped in the middle of their games to watch us  traverse the muddy trails towards a poor section of the neighborhood.  

 

 

Bangued is the capital of Abra. This is claimed to be a first-class municipality, but believe you me, I would’nt have known that.  A landlocked municipality belonging to a landlocked province,  Bangued means “roadblock” in the local dialect (Ilocano and Itneg).  Story goes that when the Spaniards led by Juan de Salcedo reached the place, there were big logs strewn along Abra River and stones blocking the paths towards this old town/municipality.  As was always the case,  a native was asked what the place was called and this native, thinking they were asking about the roadblocks, answered “bangen”.   And so that was how the place was called, until it was changed to “Bangued” when the American forces arrived.  I’m telling ya,  miscommunication and misinterpretations accounted for how many areas were first named.

 

 

Would I come back to this place?  The mountains beckon,  and you know there’s a Marlboro country waiting for you there. But I’m not sure I’d want to go back.  I don’t know,  for some reason the poverty there depresses me.  For another, I cannot explain how and why I do not feel so safe there.  So let me just imagine how life was then when Gabriela Silang fled to this place to continue the revolt began by her insurgent revolutionary husband Diego Silang back in those days.  Some trivia here.  Did you guys know that Gabriela Silang was adopted by a wealthy businessman from Abra by the name of  Tomas Millan. This fellow then married Gabriela when she turned 20, but the businessman died 3 years after the marriage.  Only then did she remarry,  to insurgent leader Diego Silang, and history lessons tell us more from that point on.  (Fast forward: if this happened today, people would scream “Incest”.  You don’t go around adopting a child and marrying her when she grows up, ei?)

 

 

So tell me, what else do you know about Abra outside of the election violence, Gabriela Silang and Father Conrado Balweg? What, you have not heard of Fr. Balweg?   Years back, it was not uncommon to see posters  citing “Ninoy is our hero… Balweg is our idol.” Fr. Balweg was  a relatively unknown priest of a rural parish in Abra, until he fled to the hills and joined the communist party’s New People’s Army in the Cordillera Region in 1979.  It is claimed that he led many NPA attacks versus military outposts. A native Tingguian — one of the “tribal minorities” in the north — Fr. Balweg was born to poverty and espoused revolution as his own theology by fighting for the rights of the Cordillera tribes.  If I’m not mistaken, there was even a movie inspired by the real life story of this rebel-priest.  Would anyone know if there’s a DVD of such movie that I can watch?

 

If none, I would settle for this video.  

 


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Juan Luna Shrine: So, who shot the Patriot’s wife?

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Filed under: Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 13 Comments
August 9, 2011

How much do we know of the Luna brothers? Honestly? I simply know one is a painter, the other a General. Both are patriots. And both are friends and contemporaries of Dr. Jose P. Rizal. Many of us would think that knowledge is enough. Toinks!

Juan Luna Shrine in Badoc, Ilocos Norte

On our way from Laoag to Vigan, we passed Badoc, Ilocos Norte. This is the last town of Ilocos Norte. And this is the birthplace of the Luna brothers. The Juan Luna Shrine can be found here — a building made of brick housing the memorabilia and paintings of this patriotic, and very controversial painter.

Death of Cleopatra (Museo del Prado @Madrid)

Spolarium (now on display @National Museum of the Philippines)

Luna killed his wife and mother-in-law because of

jealousy.

So goes the story. Makes for a great headline.

The patriot who painted such classics and award-winning Spoliarium (Gold Medal, 1884, now on display at the National Museum of the Philippines), Death of Cleopatra (Silver Medal, 1881, Museo del Prado in Madrid), Parisian Life (another Silver Medal, 1889, GSIS Museum), Battle of Lepanto, Blood Compact (1886, Malacanang Palace), Una Bulakenya (1895, Malacanang Palace), among others. The patriot as a murderer? Says who?

Inside Juan Luna Shrine

The Tour Guide did not miss a beat telling and retelling this story. Sure, Juan Luna shot his mother-in-law and wife dead. We also just learned that he shot his brother-in-law Felix Pardo de Tavera too in the same incident, but this “lucky” fellow survived. Was it an accident or was this a crime of passion?

Most answers you’d find point to Juan Luna shooting his wife Paz in a fit of jealousy. The accused lover was a certain Monsieur Dussaq. Having settled in Paris after his marriage, I can only assume this Dussaq is one Frenchman. So, did Juan shoot his wife et al? All this after only 6 years of marriage. Our Ilocano Tour Guide has another version. Like Juan tried to force open the door to their home in Paris by shooting at the door knob, not knowing the mother-in-law was peeping through the keyhole with the wife right behind her. Quite a stretch………..if you ask me. But oh well, that’s the version. (*big yawn)

The couple had 2 children but one died in infancy. The surviving child, Andres, is also a painter and the architect who designed Arlegui House, the residence of ex-President Cory Aquino, and the San Vicente de Paul Church in San Marcelino Street. Many of his works were unfortunately destroyed during the Second World War.


Rizal as a Scribe? or a Sphinx?

Una Bulakenya (Used To Be On Display @Malacanang Palace, Now @National Art Gallery)

The Other Luna Brothers

Juan’s passion for the arts was influenced by his brother Manuel who was also a painter. A better one, if we were to believe Dr. Jose Rizal. From Badoc, Ilocos Norte, the Luna family moved to Manila where the brothers studied. Manuel and Juan traveled together to Spain where Juan had more art (painting) lessons while Manuel ventured into music and later claimed fame as a violinist.

When Juan was arrested for shooting his wife and later acquitted (on grounds of insanity), it was Antonio (yes, General Antonio Luna) who accompanied him from Paris to Madrid and finally to Manila. Both brothers were arrested for rebellion charges, and later released. Juan headed back to Spain, while Antonio remained and was later killed by the Kawit Batallion (another controversial story involving Emilio Aguinaldo, but that’s another story).

One unfinished, intriguing story involves the painting “Una Bulaquena” or Woman from Bulacan. The painting was inspired by a woman who was allegedly the one great love of Antonio Luna, though the other version cites Juan having courted her after losing/shooting Paz. A case of sibling rivalry? Who knows?

This photo shows how tall or short Rizal was..........

Juan Luna’s Distinguished Models

Not many of us know that Dr. Rizal actually posed as Datu Sikatuna in Juan Luna’s “Blood Compact”. In his silver award-winning painting “Death of Cleopatra”, our national hero actually posed in earlier sittings as a scribe complete with a headdress , making him look like a sphinx. Juan Luna himself posed as Marc Anthony in the same painting. Somehow, I can imagine how these men must have enjoyed all these sittings, horsing around, posing in costumes, etc.

The original Parisian Life painting used to hang here in Bahay Nakpil-Bautista in Quiapo

Then of course everybody knows Dr. Rizal was one of the 3 models in the GSIS-acquired “Parisian Life”. The other 2 gentlemen in the painting were Juan Luna himself and Ariston Bautista, in whose house this same painting hung for years. Errr, that is yet another story again.

But these men were not just models. They were our heroes. Patriots. Gentlemen-friends, if you may. Their love of country, passion for the arts and literature, intellect, perhaps even love of women must have bound them like blood brothers in a place far away from home and family, in an era marked by secret alliances and trysts, murder and heroism.

C’est la vie………..

Inside the Shrine @Badoc, Ilocos Norte

Exit Through The Backyard: More Paintings (Reproductions)

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Silangan Gardens and Pinto Art Museum

Filed under: Don't Skip Manila!, Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 7 Comments
August 5, 2011

 

Just in the suburbs.  This oasis of peace and quiet is truly an art haven.  As my friend puts it, this is our very own MOMA (Museum of Modern Art). A not-to-be-missed destination. You don’t even have to be an art lover to enjoy this place.  But there is no guarantee you won’t end up as one by the time you’re done.

 

 

Despite the humidity,  the place offers a pitstop for tired bodies, restless minds and depressed spirits. Strolling around the gardens aimlessly, we soon learned why this place has become famous for pre-nuptial photo shoots.  It is most certainly a haven of creativity.  And I am just talking about the gardens here.  Wait till you go through the Museum proper, where I advise you to go slow to digest every ounce of art and culture. 

 

 

The Pinto Art Museum and Silangan Gardens is right inside Grandheights Subdivision in Antipolo City. I’m lousy with directions so if you plan to visit the place,  give them a call at (+632) 703-4453 or (+63917) 608-6754)  to ask for directions.  There is much to see here. And it is not difficult to wander aimlessly and view the collections of noted neurologist and art patron Dr. Joven Cuanang. We were lucky to find the good doctor in his residence right within the gallery compound when we visited.  He was most kind and even eagerly showed us around the many items of art inside his residence hemmed in by the lovely gardens.

 

How To Say “Ma.wa.lang.Ga.lang. Po.

It is of natural consequence that one views these collections with a sense of pride over Pinoy ingenuity and artistry. Filipino artists, both famous and promising, found a home here.  Dr. Cuanang talks about his collections like a father would lovingly and proudly talk about his children.  Like all his sentiments and emotional attachments wrap each piece of art and collection.   We were not surprised to learn that the good doctor has not parted with ANY piece of art that he has acquired through the years. Each of these acquisitions hangs proudly on the Museum walls in this architectural complex designed by no less than artist Antonio Leano.  The high ceilings , white stone walls , open porches and sprawling gardens all make for a very colonial/Mexican architecture.  As one weaves from hall to hall to view the exhibits,  there is an element of unhurriedness and pleasure as one’s aesthetic senses are stirred.  Surely, this place is a labor of love!   

 

Thanks to Dr. Cuanang and his vision and advocacy, we are able to enjoy our own MOMA within the City. 


A Painting of Dr. Joven Cuanang

PS. We visited again on April 5, 2018 and found even more improvements, including its Cafe Rizal. Met Dr. Cuanang once more and felt jealous that this man lives within the Museum grounds and only had to step out and literally stroll around the gardens, visit the galleries and then stop for a drink in the cafe. What a great life!

https://youtu.be/qfbrgcvIcho

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My 7 Links: Life Is A Celebration

Filed under: Food Trip, Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 11 Comments
July 16, 2011

The same blogger who added me among the Pinoy Travel Bloggers also nominated me to participate in My 7 Links Project .   This brilliant project by Tripbase intends “to unite bloggers from all sectors to share lessons learned and create a bank of long but not forgotten blog posts that deserve to see the light of day again”.  Thank you Marky Ramone Go of Nomadic Experiences  for the nomination.

 

 

MY MOST BEAUTIFUL POST: Reunion with the Sea Pets of Donsol

 

 

Not Just the Whale Sharks, There’s the Shrimp Fishermen of Donsol Too!

 

 

It was by far my most awesome animal experience.  One adventure for the books.  Very first time in late February 2011 and the next one last May.  This 2nd time around, with family. Beautiful animals. Beautiful experience. Beautiful family bonding time which lasted a week,  beginning with this trip to Donsol.  The adventure is forever inked in our memories. And that’s what makes it all the more beautiful.  And if anyone’s about to complain over the many face photos you find in this blog……..eat your heart out!  We love being FAMILY 😉

 

 

MY MOST CONTROVERSIAL POST:  Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar

 

 

Luksong Baka @Ciudad Acuzar

 

This beats many a collector’s dream.  I am not sure whether to thank the collector,  to envy him, to condemn him or what.

 

Uprooted from various areas within the country were a small chapel, the entire turn of the century school building, and many ancestral houses to form part of the new “old town” representing Mr. Acuzar’s collections. This development inevitably invited many critics to scream foul, asserting that these historical landmarks are best left and preserved wherever they were. So much furor for the transfer of all these heritage structures to satisfy one man’s dream collection!  At the same time, there were also those who hail the transfer of all these ancestral and historical structures to one area with a good promise that the owner/collector will preserve the structures.  Though a private collection and property,  “Ciudad de Acuzar” is bound to attract a lot of attention, and likely curious visitors.

 

 

MY MOST HELPFUL POST:  Eating Around the Philippines

 

 

 

I have joined, and now moderate, a community of  travel bloggers  from all over the world.  Judging by the blogs written about the Philippines,  I felt compelled to jot down this “food guide” to introduce our local delicacies.   What it accomplished is to get more of my friends from TravelBlog to visit the country and feast on our local cuisine especially the fruits.   Unexpectedly, I also received a lot of mail from Filipino readers whose appetites and happy childhood memories  were stirred just reading this blog.

 

 

A  POST WHOSE SUCCESS SURPRISED ME:  Konya: Mevlana and the Center of Sufism

 

 

 

 

I knew nothing about Sufism till a few months before this trip. The mystique of the dance by the Whirling Dervishes held nothing for me. I may have read , even watched docu-films about them, but none registered. The dance is called “Sema” which has formed part of Turkish culture, custom and history. Sema represents the mystical journey of man’s spiritual ascent by way of maximum and unlimited tolerance, love without regard for race, color or creed.  A kind of spiritual maturity entailing acceptance of ALL religious beliefs.  Now, wouldn’t that philosophy bring peace to our world?  For sure,  this journey gave me a newfound tolerance for other religious philosophies.  Mevlana's Museum in KonyaMevlana's Museum in KonyaMevlana's Museum in Konya

 

 

This post was hailed by TravelBlog as “Blog of the Year 2009”  for Middle East (Writing Category).

 

 

A  POST THAT I FELT DIDN’T GET THE  ATTENTION IT DESERVED:  When Every Prayer Bead Counts in Israel

 

 

 

 

At the time I visited Israel in 1996, I was not a very spiritual person. Perhaps I am still not. But I know that after this visit, I came home a changed person. Still a ‘work in progress’. But one’s got to try.

 

I have said rosaries every now and then before this trip, and I say them almost daily now. And this time, I ‘feel’ every passion in each rosary bead. Covering Israel is very much like saying the rosary every hour every day. The passion of Christ in each and every rosary bead is most felt in this Holy Land. Heretofore I would recite the rosary in an almost mechanical fashion. But now, I can picture the very image of each and every mystery and feel the presence of our Saviour in a most spiritual way.   So YES,  this blog deserves more attention. If not from you,  from ME — as a reminder of the transformation I went through back then.

 

 

MY MOST POPULAR POST: Craving For Bicolano Food?

 

 

Care for SILI SHAKE?

 

 

I do not know if my “reputation” precedes me.  I love food.  I love dining out. I grew up with a good appreciation that my good behavior will be rewarded with a nice “edible” treat.

 

And so this blog tops the list in my wordpress blogsite.  My Travelblog Top Post  is obviously about food adventure in some resort town too.  So I am somehow getting this message that I should soon graduate into food blogging.  But then again,  all my travels are never complete without the food adventures.  So whether you like it or not, I’d stick to travel blogging.  🙂

 

 

THE POST THAT I AM  MOST PROUD OF : Same Places Through The Years  

 

 

 

 

This is about my first solo adventure and my very first trip to Europe.  Nerves strung high, anxieties overflowing, I made it to Bradford, England without a hitch.  From there, I wasted no weekend at the height of winter to visit other places then so alien to my eyes and young traveler’s mind.  Little did I know that this journey would stir that wanderlust and forever link me to the rest of the world.

 

This blog was also voted one of TravelBlog’s Best Blog For 2010  in both the Europe writing and the Europe photography sections.  It also earned for me the Hall of Fame Award in TravelBlog, after more than 2 years of blogging.

 

Now, it’s my turn to nominate 5 other travel bloggers for this My 7 Links Project.  Here goes:

 

The Pinay Solo Backpacker    She has no home, sweet home, just pure enjoyment of the world and culture. Nobody to look after her during her trip, nobody that will put barriers to the destinations she is willing to see… Gail is an icon in the blogosphere.  Never afraid to go, wherever her heart takes her. 

 

Flipnomad  His way of traveling kept on changing, from going to the usual resorts  to going to nearby provinces to backpacking. All these opened his eyes to a lot of other cultures and gave him a chance to meet interesting people that have interesting views in life. One trip he made which I plan to do is the one month El Nido trip.  What bliss!

 

The Lost Boy Lloyd A young blogger showing so much promise.  Lloyd looks forward to weekends and school breaks to do more traveling. A prolific blogger, and fast gaining a following from both young and old folks like me.

 

Philippine Travelogue  Another young blogger offering excellent travel tips on where to go, what to do, how to enjoy. Met Brenna by accident in Chinatown, spotted her through the many blogs she’s done which I have read. Very young indeed, and very talented.

 

Lakwatsero  Another icon in the blogosphere.  Angel treks, he climbs, he swims, he dives, he photographs, he writes, and he writes well!  Been following his blogs and enjoying them thoroughly.   The narratives and photographs will keep you entertained, and appropriately educated/informed. 

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Just How Do You Eat Alagao?

Filed under: Don't Skip Manila!, Food Trip, Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 20 Comments
July 5, 2011

Yes, Alagao.  I hail from the province and what I know of alagao is that it has a “hairy” leaf. Yes, H.A.I.R.Y.  But it is one hell of a versatile leaf. Just like the guava leaves,  they can be used to wash wounds or applied to open cuts.   Whenever we have indigestion or suffering from gas pains,  our elders would come up with this concoction and force us to drink the alagao tea, if you can call it that.  Gosh, I even remember our quack doctor with some cut up alagao leaf or two on his temples to cure his headache!

 

As kids, we would play-cook and readily discard the alagao leaves among our “ingredients” for whatever it was we are boiling or concocting.  That’s because we didn’t like the “felt” texture of the leaf. Hairy has no room in our kids’ menu back then. But in this part of Antipolo, alagao  takes centerstage in this lovely lunch buffet.  Was I in for a pleasant surprise!

 

Signature Appetizer Is Alagao Leaves With Spices & Other Fillings

 

It was past my lunchtime when we reached Crescent Moon Cafe.  I do not know how long it has been in business  in this corner in Antipolo, Rizal, but it sure is a well-kept  secret.   It was a very humid day, and we have just visited the Angono-Binangonan Petroglyphs at high noon!  Hungry,  I was quite ready to eat a cow by the time we reached this cafe and its lovely garden and koi ponds.

 

Choose your fillings, then wrap and roll!

 

As its signature appetizers,  one makes his own “rolls” using an alagao leaf and stuffing it with various spices.  There’s  fried garlic, minced onions, green chili for the brave ones, alamang fried to a crisp, cut up basil leaves, cubed mangoes,  ginger and some nuts.   You choose your fillings, lay them on the leaf, smear it with some sweet dark sauce, and then wrap the leaf like you would a lumpia. Voila!  The sweet, salty, sour and spicy all compete for attention and make out a sensation that is not quite the same as any other.  What do you know, I actually like it!  

 

 

Owned by  Lanelle Abueva-Fernando,  niece of National Artist Napoleon Abueva and daughter of former UP President  Jose Abueva,  the place has no pretentions.  I understand there is really no set menu here, but the signature alagao appetizer is a mainstay.  For this lunch , we had soup,  a steamed fish, some crispy noodles with vegetable curry toppings,  a chicken dish which I ignored (not because it wasn’t good,  but a chicken is a chicken is a chicken if you know what I mean),  and another vegetable dish. Me? I focused on the alagao rolls,  steamed fish and the curried vegetables with crispy noodles.  And for dessert? We had suman served with a quarter of a mango.  I could do with another quarter, actually, but for P35o for a set lunch, I should not be complaining.  I like their suman.  No need for sugar or anything else.  The suman, by itself,  is complete in its sweetness and creaminess.  You can buy them too as take-home pasalubong for P275 a bundle.  

 

No, It's Not Soup. It's The Topping for the Crispy Noodles.

 

Done with lunch, one can stroll around the garden and pond.  On a hot day,  this place offers a refreshing break.  The trees all around make it tolerable despite the humidity.  But it is not conducive for any shopping.   Lanelle Abueva-Fernando’s pottery is right within the compound  and her works  are on display and available for sale.  There were nice  teapots and matching teacups,  serving plates , cups and saucers, jars, sugar and creamer sets, etc.  By the time we were done with lunch, all I wanted to do was to get back to the airconditioned vehicle.  You see, Crescent Moon Cafe is NOT airconditioned.  You can do away with that setup in Tagaytay (like in Sonya’s Garden) but not so here in Antipolo.  Or maybe it was simply a hot humid day  when we visited. Struggling to keep my eyelids from drooping shut,   I decided to enjoy the comforts of airconditioning in the vehicle.  

 

Crescent Moon Cafe in Antipolo City

It looks cool. Temp 38C

 

By the way,  make sure you don’t come on a Sunday or Monday when Crescent Moon Cafe is closed. And do remember that it is only open for lunch.  For directions, you may call +632 630-5854 .  But allow me to try.  😉  If you are coming from Sumulong Highway, go straight past the Ynares Rotunda and Unciano Hospital. You’ll soon find  Flying V gasoline station which is on the left side of a three forked intersection. Take the rightmost road and drive past a Shell station, then Milagrosa Subdivision. A few meters past the subdivision, you’ll see the Crescent Moon signboard. Take that road, and enter the Crescent Moon compound on the left side of the road. The exact address is Sapang Buho, Ascencion road. Barangay Dalig, Antipolo City.

 

 

And don’t be fooled. There is still  a tree-lined  walkway towards the Cafe.  You’d walk this path from the street to get inside.  It’s a pleasant walk.

 

The Art of Pottery

Entrance to Crescent Moon Cafe


This May Help Get You There 😉

 

When it comes to the subject of food, I readily go overboard.  I have earlier submitted my entry to the Pinoy Travel Bloggers’ Blog Carnival for the month of July 2011 with the theme “Awesome Food Experience While Traveling” hosted by Anton Diaz of Our Awesome Planet.  But hey,  what’s wrong with a 2nd entry?  There is always room for good food, right?  

 

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Of Balaw Balaw and the Higantes Festival of Angono, Rizal

Filed under: Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 9 Comments

Taka or Papier Mache Masks

 

It wasn’t my first time in Angono’s Balaw Balaw Restaurant.  And even before my first visit, I have heard enough about the exotic cuisine offered in this specialty restaurant cum art gallery.  Artist Perdigon Vocalan has long gone; but his wife carries on the tradition so to speak.  Angono is famous for its artists and Balaw Balaw seems to have lured many of them to this dining place for both eats and art talk. Around 100  of Perdigon Vocalan’s paintings and those of other folk artists are displayed in the 2nd floor Museum above the specialty restaurant along with various sculptures representing the rich cultural heritage and folklore of  Angono, Rizal.

 

Balaw Balaw Specialty Restaurant in Angono, Rizal

Inside Balaw Balaw Specialty Restaurant

Call It A Food Adventure

It was too early for the dreaded “sawa” and “bayawak” dishes.  That was some relief. 🙂  I may be adventurous with food but I will most definitely have second thoughts about putting that stuff into my mouth.  Instead, we partook of the “maruya” — fried banana cooked with some flour and smothered with sugar.  This I like.  The ginger tea that went with it was a perfect match.  Reminded me of those afternoon snacks served by my grandmother back when tea was served in a bowl rather than an earless mug or tea cup.

 

 

The place is called “Balaw Balaw” after that very Tagalog side serving cum appetizer or sauce made from “alamang” mixed with rice and some herb called “angkak” to give it a reddish coloring.  Fermented for some 3 days,  this side serving goes well wrapped in “mustasa” or mustard leaves, and eaten with anything grilled like fish or meat.  Some actually use it like one would use “patis” or fish sauce with their “sinigang” or sour broth.

 

 

Would you believe there are 12 kinds of sinigang in this food establishment?  I do remember having tried in the past this sinigang dish with fish native to Angono-Binangonan-Baras-Tanay area.  Sinigang na kanduli is good.  I also liked the grilled hito or catfish.  And the fried dalag with its yummy roe!  Although they serve it,  this place entices you to be more adventurous outside of the usual kare-kare, kaldereta, and ihaw-ihaw.  Not to forget, there is also the Fried Itik — the tagalog version of the famous Peking Duck.  And there’s Minaluto, which is really like a ‘binalot’ plus tons more.  Likewise wrapped in banana leaves,  then steamed,  this makes for a meal by itself.  So, what are you guys having?  As for me,  I’m quite content with the maruya, ginger tea, and an hour’s look-see around the 2nd floor Art Gallery and the 3rd floor craftshop for the “taka”.

 

The Last Supper

The Art Capital of the Philippines?

 

Angono boasts of 2 National Artists:  the late muralist  Botong Francisco and the musician Maestro Lucio San Pedro.  Many of the Angono artists, including Perdigon Vocalan, were influenced by the late Carlos “Botong” Francisco who died in 1968. On the other hand, the Angono National Symphonic Band exists, though not too many heard of it.  Maestro San Pedro inspired many musical talents through his guidance of this band.  His most famous musical piece is “Sa Ugoy ng Duyan”, immortalized in a woodcarving or wood sculpture to be found in this Art Gallery .   San Pedro passed away in 2002, almost on the same date as Botong Francisco.

 

"Sa Ugoy Ng Duyan"

Art of Taka (Papier Mache)

 

Soon after our mid-snack of maruya,  we sat for a few more minutes to watch how “taka” is made.  Frankly,  it is your usual papier mache but instead of vases, bowls, jars, or picture frames,  this Angono art flourished to a form that the Higantes Festival of Angono is now celebrated every November 23rd. The “Higantes” are actually giant caricatures made of papier mache.  Folklore has it that the caricatures are those of the Spanish landlord (and his family)  for lands tilled by Angono locals.   This explains the sharp features in the “higantes” masks and dolls,  and the standard hands-on-the-hips representations crafted by the Angono folks. It is said that in a way,  the art of mask-making was an expression of how locals view their “masters” or landlords.  This is the same Spanish landlord and his family who banned all fiestas in the area except for the Feast Day of San Clemente every November 23.  Folklore has it that the Spanish landlord thought too many fiestas or celebrations are wasteful.  For this reason, the natives found a way to ventilate their protest every November 23 through these taka effigies which are paraded around town, and which fiestas culminate in a fluvial procession on the waters of Laguna de Bay.

 

Inside Balaw Balaw Restaurant

 

I have never been to its fiesta , but it should be interesting to witness one this coming November 23. Amazing how local folks turned papier mache into an art in this neck of the woods.  The papier mache masks certainly bear a resemblance to long-ago mestizo landlords.   The arrogant placement of the hands on the hips is the perfect give away.

 

Photo Sourced From The Web

 

So , do we have a date this November 23rd?  Great.  And while we await that date, how about we refresh our memory of this long-ago song composed by National Artist San Pedro with lyrics from Levi Celerio? Take time to picture what was on the artists’ minds when they crafted this lovely song. 🙂

 

Sana’y di nagmaliw ang dati kong araw
Nang munti pang bata sa piling ni nanay
Nais kong maulit ang awit ni inang mahal
Awit ng pag-ibig habang ako’y nasa duyan

Sana’y di nagmaliw ang dati kong araw
Nang munti pang bata sa piling ni nanay
Nais kong maulit ang awit ni inang mahal
Awit ng pag-ibig habang ako’y nasa duyan

Refrain:
Sa aking pagtulog na labis ang himbing
Ang bantay ko’y tala, ang tanod ko’y bituin
Sa piling ni nanay, langit ay buhay
Puso kong may dusa sabik sa ugoy ng duyan

Sana’y di nagmaliw ang dati kong araw
Nang munti pang bata sa piling ni nanay
Nais kong maulit ang awit ni inang mahal
Awit ng pag-ibig habang ako’y nasa duyan

Sa aking pagtulog na labis ang himbing
Ang bantay ko’y tala, ang tanod ko’y bituin
Sa piling ni nanay, langit ay buhay
Puso kong may dusa sabik sa ugoy ng duyan

Nais kong matulog sa dating duyan ko, inay
Oh! inay

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Going SILLY Over SILI SHAKE!

Filed under: Food Trip, Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 11 Comments
July 3, 2011

I have a soft spot for Bicol.  And I have a big appetite for Bicol dishes.  Oh, not just dishes.  Of late, I have discovered and loved their exotic shakes and ice cream! (Ice Cream Photo Borrowed From FlipNomad)

 

Sili Ice Cream @1st Colonial Grill

SILI Rocks

 

We found this cozy place called Bicol Blends Cafe in Daraga , Albay — right along the Rizal Road connecting Legazpi City to Daraga all the way to our previous destination, Donsol.   First time we chanced upon it,  we were actually at 1st Colonial Grill which is right beside this cafe.  Now, 1st Colonial Grill was what brought us to this neck of the woods.  The Tinapa Rice and Buko Chopsuey there are good reasons for a visit.  Over and above that,  we were longing to try that famous SILI ice cream.  SILI???? Yes, sili as in chilis as in peppers as in HOT and SPICY.

 

Tinapa Rice @1st Colonial Grill

 

It didn’t look threatening at all.  In fact, it can pass for strawberry ice cream at first glance.  But wait till you taste the last drop.  The spice kicks in.  Your tongue feels the “burn”, and so does your palate as you finish up with that last lick.  So be sure to have a tall glass of water at arm’s reach.  But wait, there’s more than just the SILI ice cream here.  Right beside 1st Colonial Grill is a coffee shop cum pastry shop owned by the same family.  Bicol Blends Cafe soon took over as our favorite coffee place in Bicol for its exotic pastry items and even more exotic shakes.

 

The Deceptive Sili Shake @Bicol Blends Cafe

 

There is the pili shake.  And the sili shake.  Just like the sili ice cream, the sili shake can be quite deceptive.  It starts off like your typical, standard milk shake.  But the finish! Oh, the finish…….will remind you to take your food “slowly” as our elders would often say when we were younger.  Chew slowly.  Drink. Don’t slurp.  Savor every bite.  Relish every sip.  And give your taste buds the chance to discern the variety of flavors each food morsel offers!  

 

And the baked stuff offered quite a variety.  Pan de Bicol Express?  This is a big pandesal stuffed with bicol express.  Don’t be fooled by the “mini-pan” description. It is a big pandesal.  Had it for breakfast along with my favorite brew.  Whoa! Did that perk me up! Understatement of the year.  I love the dough, just like the way I want my pandesal.  But the filling shook me up crazy with all those spices so early in the morning.   Besides,  it takes an acquired taste to welcome coconut cream-based fillings at this early hour.  I dare the brave ones to try it.

 

Pan de Bicol Express To Rev Up Ur Mornings@Bicol Blends Cafe

 

The second breakfast I had in Bicol Blends Cafe,  I tried the Pili Bread. Now this one is as mild as seeing majestic Mount Mayon first hour of the morning.  Pili nut abounds in Bicol and is a regular take-home or pasalubong item.  I love it.  I find it quite expensive but it is a nut truly our own, so flaunt it. Eat it. Buy it!  Many modern and fusion restaurants in the area have actually found ways to get that nut into their Bicolano cuisine,  accompanied by the unforgiving sili and drowned in the usual coconut cream. Mixed into their bread, or shaved like one would with almonds to garnish a pasta dish,  the taste of this pili nut is never obscured by the other flavors.

 

A Milder Treat To Start The Morning: Pili Bread @Bicol Blends Cafe

Bicol Blends Cafe

 

If we were spending a few more mornings in this place, I would have tried their Laing Offerings. Perhaps next time? For sure, I will be making a visit to this place not just for my sili and pili fix, but also for the cozy ambience and wifi connection the place offers.  Maybe I’d also try their Malunggay Ice Cream and Tinutong Ice Cream.  All those crazy ice cream flavors! For your info, you can dine in either 1st Colonial or in Bicol Blends Cafe and order from the menu of either since both are owned by the same family.  Nice 🙂

 

Craving for more Bicolano food?  Check out this blog. More yummy photos too.  Oh, take me back. Take me back! 

 

More? Just click the link above for more bicol dishes.

 

This is my entry to the Pinoy Travel Bloggers’ Blog Carnival for July 2011 with the theme “Awesome Food Experience While Traveling In The Philippines” hosted by Anton Diaz .  Bon apetit! 

 

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