It’s our first glimpse of New Zealand as the boat dropped anchor ⚓️ on the 4th day at the Bay of Islands. ⛴️ There isn’t much to see unless you join the shore excursions to view some waterfalls and some historic towns in this northeastern coast of the North Island. We used tender service to reach the island in 20 minutes, then a 5 minute shuttle bus to visit Paihia. There were shops and restos around, along with the Williams House with a neat garden around the historic structure owned by 5 generations of this founding European family including a man who translated the Treaty of Waitangi to Māori language. Book shelves lined the walls, along with framed portraits of the illustrious and respected Williamses. But most everyone who visited the Bay of Islands particularly enjoyed the WiFi connection within the grounds! Well, after 3 days at sea, you can’t blame us. Unwilling to pay extra for connectivity, we spent a good half hour just checking messages and surfing the Net on our mobile phones. The others checked out the island’s Chinese restaurants and oyster bars. Was tempted to try the 3-seater trike that takes tourists around the island but decided against it and went shopping instead. Perhaps another day for the trike adventure.
Williams Residence
By the time we rode the tender back to our big boat🚢, we had our late lunch at the Oceanview Cafe , this time without the crowd. Many of the passengers were still in the island so the early returnees enjoyed the facilities on the boat almost exclusively. Even the big pool and solarium pool were nearly devoid of swimmers. There were numerous activities to join but we proceeded to the theatre instead for a stand up comedy show which surprisingly, we enjoyed. Then off to the bar for acoustic music and another sunset view seated on colorful swing chairs. We learned of another band of Colombians with a Filipina singer named TJ that we wanted to listen to. We headed there and witnessed a couple of pairs who displayed their dancing prowess to TJ’s tango and salsa repertoire. 🕺💃
People watching is both an interesting activity and a discovery of sorts. The cruise director lined up many events — from Veterans Day (there were many seniors and I’m curious about the average age of passengers on this vessel) to comedy shows to bingos to dance and Zumba sessions to games to musicals to art auctions to workshops to self-care and spa treatment. They even gave each passenger a free bracelet where different charms can be bought each day. And a locket necklace with free charms each day. The passengers lined up at certain hours each day for the free necklace charms on sea days. There is always something to do. And to eat. The fine dining restaurants, the grill and pizza place, the bars, the ice cream corners, the sushi place. Le Petit Chef is also here. How does one get bored here? One of my friends signed up for nearly every single event but I chose to relax on sea days and looked forward to our excursions wherever the boat docked. Let’s see what happens in the next few days!
By late October to around mid November, the jacaranda trees in Sydney are in full bloom. This trip to the harbour city is quite perfectly timed to enjoy the city turning purplish as spring easily transitions to summer. Like it’s a reward for enduring the rise in temperature as the summer heat breezes through. The nights are still cool and it’s a good idea to bring a shawl or light jacket, but you can now put your coats and fleece-lined jackets to storage.
Ashmore StreetMcDougall Street
We drove towards Ashmore Street where there were not as many visitors. It’s just a short stretch but that lavender haze somehow puts you in a cheery mood. McDougall Street in Kirribilli is quite a sight with the jacaranda trees lining both sides of the street , and the nearby park offering a respite from walking the middle of the street with way too many camwhores like us, eager for a shot. Cars honking, to remind the visitors to stay on the side of the street.
Around Circular Quay, you’d spot many jacaranda trees too, more at the botanical gardens. Some trees more lush than the others, many wilted petals blanketing the footpaths. Quite honestly, I do not like the smell of the pretty lavender flowers. But you’d forgive her for that because of how it looks in all its purple or lavender glory. Welcome to Sydney!
The years were 1986. 2000. 2003. 2019. And now 2024. From the first visit to this recent trip, I am so happy to visit the same spots, while still leaving more for the succeeding trips. Who knows when the next one will be? There is simply too much to see, enjoy and cherish. The old monuments are still there. Many of the major museums are still free. The West End musicals and plays are still way cheaper than if you were to watch it in Broadway. The dining scene has improved way over my expectations —- as tastes and cuisines have merged and made for a gastronomic experiment. The tea and coffee scene, along with the pastries, is still divine. And the markets and little shops — especially the bookstores and vintage shops — an experience not to be missed.
The best buns we’ve tried. Notting Hill. Buns from Home. 2024. London
As for Liverpool, the confidence wasn’t 100% when I pulled this into our itinerary. I love the Beatles but I wasn’t sure my apo and her mom would enjoy the vibe here. Still, I thought the city has way more than the Beatles and there’s the cafe and pies scene like everywhere in UK, plus the museums. The waterscape may also provide a change in scenery, or so I thought. Well, I actually worried for nothing. My 2 girls loved it here. It likewise helped we had a good hotel. (Trivia: this 70 y.o. booked the hotel and they gave us a room for the “elderly”. Read: handicapped or someone with mobility issues. The room had installed handrails everywhere and the toilet is actually as big as a good-sized room!)
About Edinburgh, this is a trip down memory lane for me. Was here in 1986, at the height of winter, alone. No digicams, no selfie-sticks, no credit cards, no cellphones. I stayed longer than planned when I met a couple who asked me to dogsit for a couple of days in a cottage not too far from the Holyrood Park. I didn’t realize the dog was a Rottweiler who loves to cuddle. But I had a couple of days in a cottage all by myself, rent-free and with full access to the refrigerator filled with good stuff to make filling sandwiches which I packed whenever out of the house. I kept the litter box clean and walked the dog to the nearby park. But I dared NOT bathe this pet that stood taller than me! This explains why I chose an apartment near the same park for our Edinburgh stay. I couldn’t remember the place where I stayed in 1986, but wanted to reminisce the same familiar spots. No energy though this time to hike around.
Three generations. We’ve made family trips, more often pre-pandemic, but of late, I’ve been doing more “gramping”. That’s the new slang for travels with a grandparent. I love it. I craft the major itinerary, meaning I decide on the destinations, work out the hotels and transport. Sometimes, including the major walking tours too. The youngest takes care of navigating us through the cities, researches and decides where to eat, museums and attractions to visit. Her mom is the one who keeps us sane, minding our bags, the groceries and the DIY breakfasts and snacks in the bag! We’re a team. My kind of family travels. Looking forward to the next one!
The real reason why we are here. Anna’s London Exhibit 2024
If you’re finding it difficult to understand British English, just remember there are actually 40 dialects and accents in the UK. What we found, or heard, in Liverpool is quite charming. The “scouse” may refer to the dialect or accent, or it may actually mean a person hailing from Liverpool. The accent is a cross between Irish English and North Welsh accent, with a little Norwegian mixed in. Sounds pretty unique, huh? To say goodbye, the more popular way is simply to say “ta’ra”. Funny, but in my local language, the same word means “let’s go”. And to refer to something as “minty” has nothing to do with taste or scent, it simply means dirty. In reality though, “scouse” is a dish. And yes, the people from this city are actually nicknamed after a stew dish made of beef or lamb with potatoes, carrots and onions much like our local “menudo”. Served as a stew or topped with puff pastrylike a pie, it is a hearty meal. Liverpool being a port city, the story goes that the traditional Liverpudlian dish was actually brought in by sailors. We had it for our first meal in a diner called “World Famous Docklands Fish & Chips Shop” in the Royal AlbertDock.
Scouse Pie (like Chicken or Beef Pastel)
The dockyard houses a Maritime Museum, the Tate Liverpool and Beatles Story Museums, along with several restaurants and food trucks serving anything from ice cream to an assortment of street food. It’s a good walk around the docks where one also finds the “Three Graces” which is a title given to 3 waterfront buildings defining Liverpool’s skyline. These century-old buildings are the Royal Liver Building, Cunard Building and the Port of Liverpool Building. In 2015, the Beatles statue was erected right smack at the Pier Head fronting the Three Graces. A photo in front of the Beatles Statue has the heritage buildings for a splendid background.
Beatles Statue with 2 of The Three Graces Beatles Story Museum
There’s lots to do in Liverpool. Beatles fan or not, the docks, the museums, the Baltic Market and the numerous shops and restos should keep any visitor busy. We also got lucky with our lodgings. The hotel is very roomy, clean and very reasonably-priced and is a walking distance to the dockyard, passing a number of shops and dining places. This northwestern city is popular not only for its music scene but also for sports (they have 2 famous football teams — as corrected. Thanks!) and as a university city. Not to forget, there’s also the Liverpool Cathedral which is the largest in UK and the world’s 8th largest church. Very near it is the Chinatown — the very first to be established in Europe. It houses the oldest Chinese community in Europe and is marked by an arch claimed to be the largest outside of Mainland China.
Liverpool CathedralLiverpool Chinatown
The only unfortunate thing we encountered while in Liverpool was the Baltic Market was not open for business. There were a few shops open, but it wasn’t as vibrant as what it could have been. We planned on eating there but ended up having coffee in the nearby Yonder Cafe, which serves good coffee by the way. Having said that, we truly made good use of our time in Liverpool. The shops and food trucks look really cute and interesting but alas, we can’t have everything. Ta’ra!
What a pleasant surprise! Yayoi K is one of our favorite modern artists and having planned to visit the Lady Di Memorial in Kensington where she lived for many “royal” years, we were just unprepared to spot the polka-dotted yellow pumpkin across the Kensington pond. I was panting for breath after walking around the memorial gardens when I spotted the yellow and black pumpkin. Couldn’t believe our luck to find it here on full display (unveiled in July, up until November 3, 2024) — the tallest pumpkin structure to date! Quite frankly, I am sooo impressed that Yayoi at 95 years of age is still very prolific with her sculptures and signature infinity and circles installations spread all over the world. Not bad for someone who has been suffering from mental and psychological issues since childhood. Having lived in an asylum since 1977, it is reported that her iconic pumpkin structures are reminders of her happy childhood. This holds much meaning to me — the few local artists I’ve talked to have almost always integrated their childhood memories into their art. A poignant reminder how minds and mindsets are forged, developed and nurtured through the years, and then expressed in some form. Art or otherwise.
Yayoi K behind usYayoi K across the Kensington Pond
Enough of Yayoi Kusama. We are in Kensington Gardens near Kensington Palace where Lady Diana lived and raised her two sons Prince Harry and the king-in-waiting Prince William. This prime piece of Crown Estate land houses a “Cradle Walk” (a tunnel of arched arbour of twigged lime) surrounding a Sunken Garden where a statue of Lady Diana with three children stand. It’s a beautiful memorial to Lady Diana that evokes mixed feelings that remind people of her royal life in Kensington Palace where she lived since her wedding to the day she died. The round pond nearby has resident ducks and swans — a perfect setting for family picnics and lovers’ quiet dates.
The Lady Diana Memorial in Kensington GardensKensington Palace
The gardens adjoin Hyde Park so bikers have this vast expanse to do their “laps” while enjoying the tranquility of rest stops in front of the sunken gardens, the kids’ playgrounds, the Palace, the Pond. Imagine all that green space! It is London’s massive oxygen station. Though the Kensington Gardens are more “formal” and close early , Hyde Park is open for longer hours. If there’s one thing I truly envy Londoners for, it’s their free museums and many lovely parks, gardens and squares. 💕
Post-exhibit, — the reason why we are here — we indulged in more art. The Victoria & Albert (V&A) Museum is one I’ve always missed in my UK trips so I was ready to tick this off my list this time. We scheduled an entire morning here and would have spent an entire day if we weren’t completely overwhelmed. Who wouldn’t? Just like the British Museum — and many more just around London — there was just too many to see, too much to “digest”, and too much visuals to delight in and much information to absorb. Museums do that to you. One can’t imagine the tons of educational and informative materials here, along with the excitement and visual sensation you get upon viewing the exhibits here. There is also that immense gratitude to the teams that curated all these collections.
V&A MuseumThat rotunda chandelier!
And who are Victoria & Albert? This royal couple were actually cousins whose love story would floor you. Queen Elizabeth II may have outruled Queen Victoria who ruled for 67 years but Queen V was much younger (at 18) when she succeeded the throne. She and Prince Albert allegedly fell in love the first time they met and had 9 children. Their passion for each other was reported as the greatest royal love story of all time. Unfortunately, Prince Albert died very young at 42 and the Queen blamed the then heir-apparent, later King Edward VII for Prince Albert’s demise. King Edward VII succeeded the throne only after Queen V passed on. Before then, he was not granted any political power, influence or station. He waited 60 years as heir-apparent.
Just for starters. Wow!Just a short break.
At the time we visited, there was a special Naomi Campbell exhibit but we penny-pinched and didn’t want to pay extra 18 pounds 😂 We argued there’s so much to see anyway without shelling out a cent, or a pence. We did round up the Fashion Gallery and was amazed with the rare collection. Then off we went to the very impressive Raphael Cartoons where Raphael’s spellbinding works of art were on display. The tapestries were truly treasures from the Renaissance period. All seven full-scale designs! Spent much time here that we hardly covered the entire, huge museum and literally hopped from hall to hall until our feet and legs could hardly carry our weight any longer. I thought the British Museum was big, but Victoria & Albert is even bigger. So much variety and such an enormous collection. It can be a chore to navigate the massive museum, so it’s best one plans how to view the collections. Of course, we didn’t have a plan but we soon realized that the exhibit items are displayed not by period like in other museumsbut by artistic category: fashion/textiles, visual arts, sculptures, architecture/design, jewelry, etc. Thankfully, they did segregate the artifacts and treasures among the British Galleries, Asian Galleries, and the Europe Galleries. The artworks from Asia were even thematically divided like there was a separate hall for Buddhist sculptures clustered by region. Further separated were Medieval and the Renaissance Galleries. And there was a separate hall for potteries, ceramics, etc. In my humble and amateurish opinion, the clustering is one major chore and I can understand how the curators must have argued over the years on exactly how these items should be exhibited.
How to say your ooohs and aaahhhsImagine this!
Suffice it to say that sorting out these magnificent works of art (others call it “loot from the wars” — but let’s not get into that) is a tremendous task. With free admissions, who dares to complain? I only wish I live somewhere near and have the time to spend 2-3 hours daily, to visit one hall or section at a time. No way you can do this in one go. Not even in 3. That’s how I did it in Madrid (Prado, Reina Sofia and Thyssen-Bornemisza) yet I still can’t claim I covered the whole area. The last hall we visited made us decide to leave. Not because we’re unimpressed, but because we were utterly overwhelmed that we wanted to leave “in that drop-jaw state”. If you missed seeing David in the Academia at Florence, you can try your luck viewing its cast here without paying for museum admission nor lining up to buy a ticket. And stare at this giant of an artwork to your heart’s content. For free.
Back in London from Edinburgh. Trained in at King’s Cross and checked out Platform 9 3/4 before heading home to our London crib. Post-exhibit event (the major reason why we are here), we spent an entire day reliving Nottinghill — that Julia Roberts and Hugh Grant starrer with that famous quote “I’m just a girl standing in front of a boy, asking him to love her.” That was way back in 1999. The first time I set foot here in 1986 pre-Nottinghill the movie, I just remember this area as a spot for book lovers and shoppers for antiques and curio items. The coffee and scone scene is still fabulous — tried Cheeky Scone — and was not disappointed. It was a long walk from Nottinghill up to Chinatown bordering SOHO but we needed our nourishment after visiting the book shops, that famous blue door from the blockbuster movie and all the quaint curio shops left and right of Portobello Road.
King’s Cross Train Station is a fabulous structure but it is now more famous for this spot. Thanks to JK Rowling’s Harry Potter . King’s Cross Station
Now, Portobello Road just off Nottinghill Gate Station gives off bohemian vibes. There are countless vintage shops, delis and coffee shops. Very vibrant, and quite busy too. It is tempting to shop around or just browse through books in those little bookstores that’s hardly the norm in big cities. I even found a basket full of wrapped books where a conspicuous sign state “blind date with a book”. What a creative idea! There’s a hint of what the book is all about and it’s like a teaser of what you’d find upon unwrapping the package.
Nottinghill Spots
Book and film lovers will find a haven in Nottinghill. But do watch the movie first for context. 😉 Otherwise you’d just think of this bohemian village in London as a place for shoppers and maybe as a dating place. Besides, that “blue door” can just be another door to anyone unless you have seen, and enjoyed the movie. Soon after finding the movie spots, enjoying the scones with coffee and shopping for cutesy vintage items, we went for more walks in search of a serious meal. Four Seasons at Gerrard Street was our choice for early Chinese dinner. Now this may sound like a day of eating, shopping and fangirling to you, but that’s exactly what it was. When in London, as with anywhere else, you’re free to make your own memories. Ta Ta!
Summer officially ended while we were on our train ride from sunny Liverpool towards the capital of Scotland. We chose Edinburgh for many reasons. Many (free) museums. Culture. Scotch Whisky. Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace. Harry Potter. Bagpipes and men in kilt! But all throughout our stay here, we experienced overcast skies and showers every now and then. Wet and cold in Edinburgh but we’re not complaining. Behind our apartment is the Holyrood Park and Arthur’s Seat beckons. Many young hikers all geared up for the hike, some with their fur babies — and I only managed to watch them while sipping coffee and enjoying scones in the Holyrood Cafe by the Palace.
Vennel Steps @GrassmarketHolyrood Palace
The Scottish pride left me with a good impression 38 years ago. I just love how they feel proud of their independence and their national icons. Alexander Graham Bell, Robert Burns, Alexander Fleming and the more contemporary Andy Murray and Sean Connery of 007 fame. J.K. Rowlings is British but she drew inspiration from many spots around Edinburgh for her 7-volume Harry Potter books. In fact there were way too many Harry Potter tours around here to show visitors the Elephant House, the self-proclaimed birthplace of Harry Potter. The Greyfriar Kirkyard, the burial site of Thomas Riddle aka Lord Vxxxx “who must not be named”. (Rowlings picked out names from the graves here, and no one knows who this Thomas is). The beautiful Victoria Street emerged in her imaginary Diagon Alley and you’d be surprised how many wands they sell around here. Plus many more.
The hike to Arthur’s SeatVictoria Street
But it would be a waste to miss the Scottish Museum of Modern Art (there were 2 across each other).A tad distant from the center with a wide expanse around the buildings. Then there’s also the National Gallery of Scotland and the Portraits Gallery. If it were sunny or at the very least rainless, it would be nice to lay out a picnic mat and just chill. I noticed though that all the flat whites and hot chocolates I drank in the museums were all good! And yes, their scones, muffins and brownies were too. One lunch we had (and repeated) was in Rock Salt Cafe along Jeffrey Street. The Scottish Breakfast was truly a big brekkie with ham, eggs, hash brown, haggis, sausage, black pudding, pork and beans and the thickest slices of really good sourdough. If that is not enough, let’s see if you can resist their baklava and other yummy pastries.
The Scottish MUSEUM OF MODERN ARTIf you visit the National Gallery of Scotland , it’s a short distance to get here. So is the Scott Monument
So there. Edinburgh may give you a lot of rain or spoil your mood but there are always the museos and the good food waiting for you. From big breakfasts to the national dish of Scotland called haggis, to the many pubs serving draught beer or whisky bars, to the many gelato and pastry shops! Many housed in century old apartment buildings.
Scottish Breakfass at Rock Salt CafeThe gelato flavors from Mary’s Milk Bar
It’s been 38 years and finally, I’m back. Hardly had any photos back in 1986 and visited only a few sites then — pre-digicams, no Google maps, no uber. This time around, we’ve pre-booked our train rides, apartment, Johnnie Walker experience and tours of the Old Town and New Town for 2 straight days and left the other days for whatever we fancy doing at the moment. It’s only Day 2 and we have 2 more days to go. But my legs are up from all that walking uphill and downhill and my arms are sore holding an umbrella up. I promise to wear a raincoat tomorrow if it still rains! Or maybe we should do the Museums when the weather doesn’t cooperate.
First Order of the Day: Johnnie WalkerNext Order: Haggis, Neeps and Tatties
As soon as we got off the train and dropped our bags in our rented apartment, we took the road via the nearby Holyrood Park and booked a ride to the Johnnie Walker Shop for a tour much like the one we did in Amsterdam. Enjoyed the history and the rest of the Scotch Whisky tasting experience. One even takes a “quiz” so you can enjoy your own “blend”. Personalized. Customized. Enough to rev up our appetite for a dinner of haggis with neeps and tatties, steak pies, fish and chipsat the Tolbooth Tavern which has stood the test of time the last 200 years. The next day we found another 200 year old lunch place — easy to do here in Edinburgh. Old is in vogue so it’s quite interesting to try “new things” in this Scottish capital. Like the Harry Potter tours. But please… no ghost tours for me.
Diagon Alley inspired by Victoria StreetElephant House is the “birthplace” of Harry Potter. A cafe where J.K. Rowling wrote the famous series.
But if you ask me, I like best the strolls around Dean Village by the water of Leith, and the park around Scott’s Monument. And yes, the view of Edinburgh Castle from the Vennel Steps is one of the unbeatable shots. Just be prepared to scale those steps! And when visiting Holyrood Palace, check out the Holyrood Park and meet new canine friends who enjoy all the grassy space. As for Arthur’s Seat — I have watched “One Day”, both the movie starring Anne Hathaway and the series (which I prefer), but I’m still not convinced I’d like to do this hike. But then again, we still have 2 more days. Between the hike and the museums here, you know where the preferences lie.
It’s nearly 40 years since I set foot here. The Beatles have put Liverpool on the map and The Cavern along Matthews Street was like a sacred place for fans like moí. I don’t remember a museum nor a bus tour dedicated to the famous band then, but today you’d find an assortment for every tourist’s liking. I’m glad I brought sobrina y nieta with me here. The visit to the Pier Head where one finds the huge bronze statues of the fab 4 and the Museum of Beatles Story on the day of arrival enough to rev up their curiosity over their Mamu’s rock stars in her heyday.
Paul, George, Ringo & John in front of the Three Graces near the Pier Head. Inside the Beatles Story MuseumBus Tour that took us to Penny Lane, Strawberry Fields, homes of Paul and John, Eleanor Rigby’s graveyard, etc
With their curiosity piqued, we were all ready to visit the former homes of Paul, John, George, Penny Lane, Strawberry Fields, the graveyard where Eleanor Rigby was buried, and many more. All throughout the bus ride, our guide played Beatles music almost everyone can sing to. I’d say the average age of passengers on that bus was 65. And my sobrina y nieta must have pulled down that average!
In front of the house where George H was born.The house where Paul and family lived.Where John Lennon lived.
Beatles fans know it all started with Paul McCartney and John Lennon. Both wrote many of the songs too. Started in 1956. Soon George H joined a year after. Ringo Starr joined or rather replaced the drummer after they adapted the Beatles name. Up until 1969, they dominated the charts. I grew up with them. My teen years were marked by Beatlemania. When their manager Brian Epstein died in 1967, and when John Lennon & Yoko Ono hooked up, it was somehow expected that the Beatles will soon disband. Yet their songs will last forever and experience many versions.
This building appeared on the sleeve of Ringo Starr’s first solo album.Beatles Museums and pubs everywhere!
When our tour ended at the famous Cavern where it all started, we went in for a few drinks and enjoyed the music from a one-man band playing mostly Beatles songs. The vibe was so festive, cheery, so much fun. All songs familiar, dancing feet can’t be stopped, the stage open to anyone who feel like “expressing” themselves. No need for introductions, everyone there is a Beatle fan, and that connects everyone!
Where it all started! Had so much fun inside the Cavern!