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Category: Don’t Skip Manila!

Siri Series: PACO PARK

October 29, 2012

Another one of those afternoons. No cams. Not even a Point & Shoot. Just Siri and Me. Just another hour to “waste”. So here we are, revisiting Paco Park. That lovely, tiny, circular chapel. And the cemetery that could have, SHOULD HAVE earned more attention, respect and recognition other than as a popular wedding venue. 😦

I confess to my own ignorance too. Not that I lacked interest. More like I truly feel there is something grievously wrong about how our history has been written and our own education and school system. Whatever I know of Philippine history, I gained from the books I bought and read. What I learned from school hardly went beyond Rizal’s martyrdom. Let’s admit this. Many history lessons stopped with Magellan’s death courtesy of Lapu-Lapu (so, what happened to Lapu Lapu after? Any guess?), or with Rizal’s martyrdom in Bagumbayan (where was our national hero interred following the 1896 execution?). Or how many Philippine heroes can you name and how much do we know of each? If we hardly know Rizal our national hero, I do not expect we can say much of Bonifacio, Mabini, Fathers Gomez, Burgos and Zamora.

For some, if not many, it would come as a surprise that the 3 martyred priests are actually buried here. It may even surprise some that their execution in 1872 inspired our national hero to write El Filibusterismo.. Today, this marker may not spark as much enthusiasm and evoke much significance among many locals. How sad.

Circling the same Paco Park, a patch of land bears another marker. This is the very spot where our national hero was SECRETLY buried soon after the December 30, 1896 execution in Bagumbayan. Zoom in on that marker to know more! 😉

Tags: Manila, Paco Cemetery, Paco Chapel, Paco Park, Philippines, Siri

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Baluarte de San Diego: Reflections of Long Ago

Filed under: Don't Skip Manila!, Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 2 Comments

October 28, 2012

We didn’t plan on being here. We met for early lunch hoping to simply chat the afternoon away. But why not chat while driving around Intramuros, much like those joy rides we used to enjoy when we were kids?

Then the calesa passed right in front of us. It’s 2 o’clock in the afternoon and those riders didn’t seem to mind the heat nor the sun. Well, it wasn’t particularly hot this afternoon. Pleasant enough to get off the car and walk into Baluarte de San Diego here in Intramuros. It’s a better option than the more open spaces in Fort Santiago. More shady trees too.

For only 75 pesos (less than US$2), one can get in to enjoy the “park with some history”. There were kids running around with their dog in the shady part of the Baluarte. Not many tourists. Many of them must be in Fort Santiago or San Agustin Church and Monastery. Yet this is one of the oldest stone fortifications in the whole length of the Intramuros walls.

The old stone steps lead up to the walls from where one views this circular stone formation, the length of the walls, and the Manila Hotel and other modern skycrapers surrounding the walled city. I remember being here years back when I attended a wedding of a friend’s daughter where I stood as sponsor. I would have wanted to walk atop the walls, but my long gown got in the way 🙂 Today, there is no such restriction.

Will someone please tell me how these circular stone formations were used? Surely, the good Jesuit priest who designed it back in the 16th century had some purpose in mind. I mean, I do know they’re there to defend the walled city but my simple mind can’t understand the many circular formations. From what I gather, this part of the Walls went into disrepair and were in fact only rediscovered in the 70s. Forgive my ignorance, but I’m most certainly eager to know how that circular design work.

These days, the Baluarte (Baluarte means bastion or fortification) is more popular as a wedding reception venue. I wish it could be more than that. The place has so much history and is, in fact, a lovely “park” which children would enjoy. The only drawback is it could be really hot during summer here. I sure hope the Intramuros Administration consider late afternoon and dusk tours here and around Intramuros. It will require some investment in good lighting and better security, but I’m sure tourists and even locals would enjoy the place better as the day approaches sunset and at night. Play some good music too (like in Paco Chapel and Cemetery) and you’d turn the Baluarte more magical!

Tags: Baluarte, Baluarte de San Diego, Intramuros, Manila, Philippines, Walled City

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Hidalgo and Luna: “Genius Has No Country”

Filed under: Don't Skip Manila!, Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 1 Comment

Such distinguished Filipinos. Estoy. Muy. Orgullosa! I. Am. Very. Proud. As were the Filipinos then based in Madrid who celebrated these Masters’ victories as Gold and Silver Medalists in the 1884 Madrid Arts Exposition. For Juan Luna, his Spoliarium earned him a Gold Medal. Felix Resurreccion Hidalgo earned his Silver for his “Las Virgenes Cristianas Expuestas al Populacho” (The Christian Virgins Exposed to the Populace), which showed a bunch of boorish looking males mocking semi-naked female slaves. A copy of this painting now hangs at the Metropolitan Museum of Manila. The original was destroyed in a fire at the University of Valladolid in Spain. A pity.

Juan Luna’s Spoliarium

I visited the National Art Gallery and the Metropolitan Museum of the Philippines on separate occasions. Just a couple of days apart. I had the rare chance to stand in the middle of the Hall of Masters all by my lonesome self. And to get really close to Luna’s Spoliarium. My iPhone came in handy, though the shots could be better. Por supuesto! But ain’t complaining. I love how I can walk around unburdened by a camera slung around my neck.

Felix Resurrecion Hidalgo’s “Christian Virgins Exposed to the Populace”

They had more restrictions at the Metropolitan Museum though. No photography allowed. Not even if you promise not to use flash. (Photo shown here was sourced from the Net. thank you, Google) Same restrictions apply in the Ayala Museum where a guard gently reminded me of such restrictions when I whipped out my iPhone in front of an Edades painting. I’m not complaining but it behooves me why different rules apply. In the case of Hidalgo’s Christian Virgins, I wasn’t even allowed to get within a couple of meters from the copy of this masterpiece. Yes, a copy. Yet, I was allowed to snap close-up shots of the original Spoliarium by Luna.

Close Up Shot of Luna’s Spoliarium. National Art Gallery.

These 2 obra maestros by Luna and Hidalgo bagged Gold and Silver Medals in the 1884 Madrid Arts Exposition. A victory celebrated by Filipino patriots then based in Madrid, to include our very own Dr. Jose Rizal. The venue for the victory banquet still stands today in Madrid, in Echegarray Street just a few strolls from Puerta del Sol. In this banquet, our national hero — who’s said not to have eaten the whole day for lack of funds — gave more than a toast to honor Luna and Hidalgo. More like a speech. A speech so full of bravado and spunk, where Rizal frontally attacked the religious establishment. Perhaps a preview of the Padre Damasos and Padre Silvas in his Noli Me Tangere. If you ever get to Madrid, do check out Hotel Ingles and “stand proud” as forefathers did. And while you’re there, be sure to visit Rizal’s other favorite haunts.

Hotel Ingles. Echegarray Street, just a few strolls from Puerta del Sol. Madrid.

If you haven’t been following my Madrid Blog Series, let me leave you with this excerpt from Rizal’s impromptu speech at the Hotel Ingles victory banquet. My man. Truly, Rizal’s Filipino pride shone through.

“Luna and Hidalgo are as much Spanish glories as they are Filipino. Just as they were born in the Philippines, they could have been born in Spain, because genius has no country, genius blossoms everywhere, genius is like the light, the air, it is the heritage of all”

Tags: Hidalgo, Hotel Ingles, Luna, Manila, Metropolitan Museum of Manila, National Art Gallery, Rizal, Spoliarium

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Going Artsy With Siri: Up Close With Luna and Hidalgo

Filed under: Don't Skip Manila!, Philippine Travels — 3 Comments

October 24, 2012

My afternoon was suddenly freed up, so how best to spend the time? The sun’s out and a walking tour is out of the question lest I feel like having a heat stroke. Shopping is not an option. I’ve also met my quota of 2 movies max in a week. I don’t feel like reading a book as the one I’m reading now is way too serious, too profound for my taste but nevertheless deserving of a read. I’m not hungry (yet) and I’ve been considering a walk in Chinatown when the heat is more bearable. Between NOW and a dimsum and lumpia fix in Chinatown, there’s the National Art Gallery.

Juan Luna’s Spoliarium

Felix Resurrecion Hidalgo’s “Assasination of Governor Bustamante”

In my first entry, I advised going to the Museum on a full stomach. This time around, I did the rounds while my stomach constantly reminded me of kutchay dumplings in this “hole-in-the-wall” dimsum place” off Ongpin Street. Without breaking a stride, I walked up the stairs to the Art Gallery. Sans camera. Sans bag. What I needed filled my pockets.

Siri was good company when I was strolling around Madrid as it is here within Museum walls. There was no crowd so I was able to spend as much time in the Hall of Masters Luna and Hidalgo. Almost mindlessly, I walked right up to the center of the hall between Luna’s “Spoliarium” and Hidalgo’s “Assassination of Governor Bustamante”. With each masterpiece, I inched closer, as if I’d find new meaning as I view the painting up close. I took my time snapping photos with my iPhone camera. Easily, I spent 10-15 minutes in this single hall. It’s not everyday after all that you find yourself ALONE in the Hall of Masters. No crowds. No student groups. No noisy chatty teenagers! No DLSR-toting tourists. 🙂

Both masterpieces have so many characters and it is quite interesting to read the facial expression, mannerism, body language and “aura” of each character. Now, that’s coming from a layman. I have neither the aptitude nor the training for art but I see what I see. Whatever and however the painting makes me feel is completely my own. Regardless of who painted what, I derive a certain sense of meaning. Intended or not by the artist, this is WHAT or HOW this and that painting made me feel.

I dare not share my sentiments and personal interpretations with anyone. No pretensions here. Both Luna and Hidalgo intended those masterpieces to convey a message. Whether i did get that message or not is my problem. But some may wish to dwell on the “separation of Church and State” or lack of it upon viewing Hidalgo’s “Assassination of Governor Bustamante”. Or how Luna’s very Roman scene in Spoliarium may invite discussions on human rights violations or the Filipinos’ sufferings during that time. The serious artists may deliberate on the significance of the red shade and the dominance of bodies throughout the painting, the interplay of light and shadows or whatever sounds artsy. I have no interpretation. I asked Siri and Siri delivered a well-researched Wikipedia spiel. Then I snapped away. So what I have to share with you are these close up photos from my iPhone cam. Tell me what you think!

Tags: Amorsolo, Hidalgo, Luna, National Art Gallery, National Museum, Philippine Art, Siri, Tolentino

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The Rock: Soaking in Sweat In Corregidor

Filed under: Don't Skip Manila!, Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 3 Comments

September 10, 2012

About time we bring the kids to the Island of Corregidor. The guided tour to this historic island is among the best. Cheerful guides, a good transport system — 1 hour 15 minutes by hover ferry and then the trams called tranvia to tour you around the tadpole-shaped island — and a 3 hour tour packed with history lessons.

Sun Cruises Terminal is right between the Folk Arts Theatre and the Coconut Palace in the CCP Complex.

It’s hard to miss the Sun Cruise Terminal in the CCP Complex. Just tell the cab driver it is between the Folk Arts Center and the Coconut Palace in this reclamation area. Be sure to be there well before the 8am departure time. Worry not about missing breakfast. We took ours there. That is, if you don’t mind a Sabrett hotdog for brekkie.

Inside the Ferry, on the upper deck, is a store where you can buy breakfast fare.

Sunscreen, shades, hat. There are umbrellas inside the tranvia which you can use whenever you step off to view the sites. Just remember this is a memorial. Where many gallant men died defending our country from Japanese forces. If you don’t care to listen to the guide’s history lessons, at least wait for her to finish her spiel before you start camwhoring. Also, do try to tone down your voice. What is it about us, anyway? I feel really sorry that many of our kababayans don’t seem to have much interest in our history, much less accord the necessary respect for our patriots who died here. So sad.

Tranvias or Trams.

Map of the Tadpole-Shaped Corregidor Island. There’s the Topside, Middleside and Bottomside.

While only 48 Kms west of Manila, it is considered part of Cavite City. Corregidor, along with the tinier Caballo Island which is only 2 Kms away, partially blocks the entrance to Manila Bay and is thus very strategic in the naval defense of the capital city. Since Sangley Point is located in Cavite City, it made sense to have this island under the administration of this tiny city.

There goes the tranvia or tram which is found waiting for you as you disembark from the ferry to whisk you around the Island.

The walk through history included the Topside where the headquarters, barracks and bulk of the batteries were located. The Middleside houses the hospital and more barracks while the Bottomside connects the “head” and the “tail” of this fortress island. The Malinta Tunnel with its labyrinth of passageways is found here. So called because the place was swarming with “linta” (leeches) then. Today, the Tunnel is home to a Light and Sound presentation designed by National Artist Lamberto Avellana. For an additional P150 fee, one is transported back to that time during the Second World War when Corregidor was the last stronghold of the joint Phil-Am military forces fighting against the Japanese Imperial Army. Much like the Gibraltar of the Orient.

The Headquarters. Iconic landmark of Corregidor Island.

In sweltering heat, we walked towards the Dome of Valor. A bronze monument of a Filipino and American soldier greets the visitors before this parachute-inspired structure behind which lies the Eternal Flame of Freedom. The whole structure honors the gallant men who sacrificed their lives. Sacred grounds deserving of RESPECT. (I won’t go into that again…. But you get the drift)

Dome of Valor, behind which lies the Eternal Flame.

Story goes that every May 6, around noon, the sun casts a light right through the dome’s center where an altar dedicated to American and Filipino soldiers is located. May 6 happens to be the date when General Wainwright surrendered the island fortress to the Japanese. Another story is that the nearby pre-war movie theatre — Cine Corregidor, now in ruins — had “Gone With the Wind” as the last movie shown. At the time we visited, it looks like some restoration work is ongoing. Hopefully, the theater can be restored soon to warrant another visit.

Cine Corregidor. Now undergoing renovation/restoration work.

The tour ends with lunch at the Corregidor Inn’s La Playa Restaurant. Lunch is likewise included in the P2,200 ferry and tour package. We took ours after the visit to Malinta Tunnel and the Lighthouse. All told, it’s good value for money. Especially if you have Estela Cordova for a guide. If only it wasn’t soooo HOT. I wonder if it ever gets cooler here. You see, Corregidor is actually part of the caldera of a now dormant volcano. NOT EXTINCT, but dormant. Like Mount Pinatubo. But unlike Pinatubo which was dormant for a hundred years before its 1991 eruption, Corregidor has been dormant for a million years. 🙂

The Lighthouse. Check out those latitudes!

Inside Malinta Tunnel. Light and Sound Show for an additional P150.

Visible is Caballo Island, just some kms away.

Tags: Cavite, Corregidor, Day Trip from Manila, Sun Cruise, World War II

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AT HOME IN TAGAYTAY CROSSWINDS RESORT SUITES

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July 17, 2012

Tagaytay has always been a favorite day trip and weekend destination. Just an hour and a half drive south of Manila. What new things can we do here? It wasn’t like we needed a new adventure. Perhaps we just needed to be someplace cooler where we can be together and be a family.

We booked ourselves at Tagaytay Crosswinds Resort Suites. There are other new hotels in the area but we liked the idea of having our own condo-like suite where we can actually cook in. That meant doing our groceries in a nearby supermarket to buy steaks and chops, corn and rice. The not-so-little ones loved our steak dinner much and the idea that we can actually cook in!

The suites are complete with kitchen essentials from rice cooker to frying pans. The elves watched TV while we prepared dinner. There isn’t much to do after, so we got busy with our iPads and iTouch after 😊. I skipped breakfast the morning after, choosing to have an extra hour of sleep. Breakfast was served in a hall in the next building. Hopefully, Crosswinds will have a new dining destination within its complex the next time we visit. That, plus wifi INSIDE the suites.

You don’t get a view of Taal Volcano from your room nor anywhere within Crosswinds area, but you may enjoy an early morning walk around. Pine trees everywhere and the cool breeze make you feel you’re somewhere near Baguio. Since the hotel is right within Crosswinds (the subdivision), it’s more quiet and peaceful here. Of course you can always drive out to dine in any of the many bistros and cafes along the Ridge.

Tags: Crosswinds, Tagaytay, Tagaytay City, Tagaytay Hotel, Tagaytay Weekend

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Pansit Na Naman?

Filed under: Don't Skip Manila!, Food Trip, Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 1 Comment

June 26, 2012

Away for nearly 3 months, I am now nicely settled. Home again. Back to the old grind. The same routine. The same food trip!

There were many food items I missed and you bet I didn’t waste time lining them up to stir up fond memories 😉 First on my list of must-eat was my favorite pancit. Now there are many versions of pancit (fried noodles) in this country and each version I pigged on. Shamelessly, I asked my good friend to cook my favorite pancit from Cavite — the one you eat with kilawing puso and culao toppings, along with a good sprinkling of Chicharon bits! Happiness :))

Then there’s the trip to Razon’s for my halo halo fix and….. yes, the pancit palabok. Again, with generous dollops of Chicharon bits. I’m not sure if it’s really the pancit or the Chicharon that got me hooked. But really, any version of the pancit does it for moí!

Back home, Manang Trining’s pancit is what everyone in the family comes home to after being away. For sure, this pancit stirs up many fond memories as every occasion is celebrated with this dish taking the middle spot on the dining table. The Chicharon is a side serving — like it’s “optional” yet I have yet to see someone foregoing that option when feasting on Manang Trining’s pancit.

The Chicharon never misses making an appearance when it’s the Pancit Luglug or Pancit Malabon version. Some crushed, some in bigger chunks. Some plain Chicharon cracklings, others with a sliver of pork attached to the fatty stuff.

Which brings us back to the question. Is it the Chicharon? Or the pancit?

Tags: food porn, Food Trip, pancit, pancit Cavite, pancit malabon, pancit palabok

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UST: 400 YEARS of HISTORY

Filed under: Don't Skip Manila!, Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 6 Comments

June 25, 2012

Spain ruled over the Philippines for nearly 400 years. Does it show? I’ve always said that Philippines is your “Latin country” in Asia. We do not have temples and wats, but the archipelago is dotted with many churches which see regular Mass-going Sunday crowds.

UST. 400 years of history.

The oldest university in Asia? Only last year, this Catholic University celebrated its 400 years of existence since April 1611. A quadri-centennial celebration which drew in many alumni from all corners of the world. I had many friends based abroad who came home just for this event. It was a grandiose celebration, helped along by funds donated by its alumni who spent many happy university years here and saw the event as a payback for the education they earned.

UST: Oldest University in Asia

Long before the Americans came, the Spaniards gave us education. This is the oldest university in the Philippines and the whole of Asia. It is also the only university ever visited by 2 popes 3 times: once by Pope Paul VI on Nov. 28, 1970, and twice by Pope John Paul II on Feb. 18, 1981 and January 13, 1995.

University of Santo Tomas.

The students and alumni called “Thomasians” count many prominent Filipinos. Our national hero Dr. Jose P. Rizal (JPR) studied medicine here before he left for and continued his studies in Madrid, Spain. UST also takes pride in counting 4 Presidents among its alumni: Manuel Quezon, Sergio Osmeña, Jose Laurel and Diosdado Macapagal.

The university belt bears witness to daily chaos. Traffic is bad and the streets are crowded with way too many pedestrians and ambulant vendors. The university has the largest campus grounds in the entire city and on the day I visited, I found many students enjoying a breezy afternoon within the “campus park”. A luxury I must say in this tropical country of over 90 million people.

Next time I visit, I’d check out the university museum.

Tags: Oldest University in Philippines, University of Santo Tomas, UST

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Hotel Celeste: A Pleasant Staycation

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Filed under: Don't Skip Manila!, Food Trip, Travel, travels — 6 Comments

January 25, 2012

If you are a sucker for hotel pleasures, you can forget the ***** prime hotels and check out the boutique hotels in and around the city. We have tried the 5 star hotels on those occasions when we wanted to celebrate. But this is the first time we tried a boutique hotel. And we’re not even celebrating any special occasion. The fact that it is just a few blocks away from home made us feel like we were on a “staycation” with absolutely nothing on the agenda but to enjoy a lovely room and savor “dining in” .

HOTEL CELESTE. Pasay Road Corner Makati Avenue.

Hotel Celeste is right at the corner of Pasay Road (now Arnaiz Road) and Makati Avenue near one of the entrance gates to San Lorenzo Village. The lobby is small, but not cramped. First off, I noticed how well-appointed the interiors are. From the lobby is the hotel’s dining outlet – Celi’s – where the decor adds much to one’s dining experience. Dined there at least twice and found the food superb without burning a hole in my pocket! Those raring to discover new dating venues, this is it.

Celi

They even have set meals for P550-650 per pax which includes appetizer, soup or salad, entree, dessert.

Impress your date!

I am told that the owner of Hotel Celeste personally supervised the interior decor of this boutique hotel. The furniture are all custom-built to her tastes. Her passion, her taste, her class is all over the place. The Lobby. The Bistro. Each of the lovely rooms. So elegant, without being stuffy.

Suite 407

No 2 Rooms Are The Same. I should know, as we checked most rooms before deciding on one.

Now........this bath tub looks pretty neat!

No two rooms are the same. The attention to details is very evident. From the lamps, the chandeliers, the bedlinen, the appointments, even the bath tubs. I wouldn’t mind spending a weekend here!

Hotel Celeste. The new dating venue. Lovely. Charmingly Quiet. Romantic. Classy.

This is not a sponsored blog. Just ramblings from a satisfied customer. 🙂

Such attention to details!

Tags: Boutique Hotel, Dating, Food Trip, Hotel, Hotel Celeste, Makati, Makati Hotel

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In Search of More Lunas (From Badoc, Ilocos Norte to Manila)

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Filed under: Don't Skip Manila!, Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 5 Comments

November 5, 2011

Having visited the Juan Luna Shrine in Badoc, Ilocos Norte last July seems to have driven us to search for more Lunas. Or rather, to dig deeper into the mind of this great patriot and artist. More than his art, there is that most interesting if not tragic side to this hero’s life.

Juan Luna Shrine in Badoc , Ilocos Norte

The tour guide here should be commended. Not easy to hold the attention of my 2 elves, aged 10 and 13, the whole hour we were here. I particularly liked how he presented Luna to us as the artist while talking of the gold award he won in a Madrid art competition with the masterpiece, “Spoliarium”. A copy hangs in this Shrine while the original adorns the Masters Hall in the National Art Gallery. Or Luna as a romantic with a painting of “Una Bulaquena” where the original painting used to hang in Malacanang Palace till it was transferred to the National Art Gallery.

The Original

In one trip to the National Art Gallery, the Luna paintings showed how his art has evolved through the years spent in Madrid and Paris. But what caught my attention were some Luna paintings with no attribution. Was it Juan or Manuel who painted these? Jose Rizal once said Manuel , the brother of Juan and Antonio Luna, is the better painter but Manuel chose to study music instead.

That Little Girl Reminds Me of Someone Named Luna

My search brought me to a Lecture Series on Juan Luna at the GSIS where its museum proudly hangs the celebrated GSIS investment in a Luna painting entitled “A Parisian Life”. Michael “Xiao” Chua gave the lecture which allowed us listeners to understand another side of Juan Luna. For the most part of the lecture, Xiao dwelled on the life and tragedy of this great artist. It is up to us viewers to relate these trivia to how his art has evolved. I am no art connoisseur but it is not difficult to differentiate the masterful but intense strokes exhibited in the “Spolarium” versus the softer, milder, even playful art gleaned from “A Parisian Life” .

The Parisien Life at the GSIS Museum. But not for long. Who is buying?

The Wife Paz......Tragically Shot by Juan Luna

Xiao disclosed that the painting Parisian Life is up for sale. So, who is buying? It will be recalled that the sale and purchase of this artwork was so enmeshed in controversy in recent past. It has certainly gone a long way from the Bahay Nakpil-Bautista in Quiapo to the Hongkong auction house to GSIS Museum. In whose walls would it hang next? Xiao laments the possibility of having this painting stashed away in some foreign land. Much like the Battle of Lepanto, another masterpiece of Juan Luna, which has been hanging in the Senate walls in Madrid, Spain. So with the “Death of Cleopatra” which is on display at the prestigious Prado Museum in Madrid, Spain. Anyone care to shell out a hefty sum to keep this national treasure here at home where it belongs?