My last trip with these travel buddies was in 2020, returning back home just a mere week before a lockdown was declared. The idea of traveling together again gave us a high and by the time we were ready to go, our number has grown to 23 adults, 4 teens and 2 babies. A whole bus of happy travelers. It didn’t matter much where we were headed but Japan has always been a good idea. Besides, our last trip to Fukuoka in 2017 had a different itinerary.
Our Growing “Family”
On this trip, the abuelas fussed over the bebes while the abuelos trained the teens how to drink smartly. Cocktail hours were longer and more adventurous as the group now includes an award-winning barista who concocted cocktail drinks for the senior, middle-aged and young adults. As always, we enjoyed the company, the private jokes, the food and the onsen. The autumn colors provide good visuals but then again, Japan is good no matter which season.
Da BoysDa Gels
The temps are dropping so we made sure to wrap ourselves good. The ryokan we are staying in now has an outdoor onsen and we made good use of that before our kaiseki dinner. Post dinner cocktails followed before we called it a night. It’d be a long next day with a long drive towards Takachiho Gorge plus a visit to a shrine where Shinto was born. So there. With the drop in temperature, wish us luck.
The last week-long family trip (to Korea) was when I turned 6-Oh. Bali was next choice and should have been scheduled last year when I turned 65 but I was out of the country then ticking off a dream trip. So here we are — the entire caboodle minus 1 😔 — finally having our highs in BALI.
We touched down on an early morning flight to Denpasar and was promptly whisked away to Seminyak to spend the rest of the day there. Potato Head Beach Club was planned as an entire day’s destination and activity and on hindsight, that worked out really well. A friend has just been here and we thought the young members of the family would enjoy the vibe here. And so we started our holiday in a beach (Seminyak) and ended the holiday week in another beach (Nusa Dua). In between, we managed to develop temple fatigue 😂🙄🤣
In Bali, we stayed in Marriott’s Bali Nusa Dua Gardens. Nusa Dua is at the southern tip of Bali and its gated hotel and beach resorts form an enclave providing a more quiet, even more reserved resort vibe than its Legian and Seminyak cousins. Marriott Vacation Club opened this Nusa Dua Gardens only 3 years ago, and built it right alongside Courtyard by Marriott.
Our hotel room is on the ground floor and opens up to the lagoon pool and Lazy River area. Just a short walk from it is the Courtyard by Marriott where they have another poolside bar, a fitness Center and 5 dining venues. A hotel shuttle brings guests to the Nusa Dua Beach where Marriott has an exclusive space and to the shopping arcade for some retail therapy. The arcade has plenty of dining options too. But I like the beach vibe best. Lounge chairs, umbrella tents and white sands. My idea of a Bali holiday.
If you choose to linger in the beach, Marriott has set up a bar to make sunset watch truly fun for its guests. It’s so relaxing here. We felt pampered as the lounge chairs were comfortable and the staff so accommodating. But we headed back to the hotel after a couple of hours here. The landscaped lagoon pool and the Lazy River were just as inviting and we liked the idea of the poolside bar to enjoy our happy hours.
Marriott Vacation Club’s newest holiday resort in the Asia-Pacific is tops. May I just say that the morning we prepped to head for the beach, I had a minor mishap. I missed a step but held my balance, albeit awkwardly, and at the expense of putting my weight on my big toe to break the fall. The very gracious staff attended to me without delay — asking if I wanted to be brought to the clinic, giving me water, a pack of ice on my toe, and never leaving my side. Thank you May and Chandra, and a couple more whose names I can’t recall. Thank you, Marriott, for giving us another wonderful holiday.
For those interested in buying membership in Marriott Vacation Club (Asia-Pacific), let me know. And no, I’m NOT doing this advert because I’m on Marriott’s payroll. Just a satisfied member of Marriott Vacation Club here. Ta Ta!
Pardon the French, but why is luwak coffee so pricey?
Tried different coffee and tea varieties before ordering the famous kopi luwak which literally translates to palm civet coffee. Civet cats feast on the coffee berries. Having digested them, they’re pooped out and then “harvested” to make kopi luwak. So this is really coffee from shit. Excuse the French again.
A live civet was found in the plantation’s store, where it is kept as a pet. It looked sleepy and didn’t mind people who wanted to pet it, even carry it. There were others inside a cage, and the signage warned us not to get too close as these cats can be aggressive.
Bali Cat Pooh Chino. Bali Cappuccino. I appreciate the sense of humour. An old lady was roasting some beans there and even invited us to help roast. I just hope they treat the palm civets well as these cats provide them with the revenues. The time we visited, the store was doing brisk business. So, would you order a cuppa? Quite frankly, I enjoyed the other coffee and tea varieties more. In particular, I liked the hot mangosteen tea and the vanilla coffee more. ☕️
Temple Watch. Food Trip. Shopping. Beach. Cocktails. Repeat. Not necessarily in that sequence. With trips between tourist sites taking far longer because of the traffic, and with temples teeming with too many tourists, temple fatigue’s a natural consequence.
Offerings at Holy Spring Water Temple
Holy Water Spring Temple In Tampaksiring
The first 2 temple visits were welcomed with much enthusiasm and awe. I was actually smarting from how my “elves” seem to appreciate Balinese architecture, art and culture. Those temples may have sucked all energy though after the 4th one. Yup, I may have pushed them too far. 😂. Not even the healing waters of Tampaksiring proved enough to reenergise my family. Unlike the visit to the first 2 temples, it was much warmer in the Ubud area when we visited Sawasrati Temple and the Ubud Royal Palace — which is really more temples than a real palace. It’s hard to appreciate art and culture in this heat. Besides, we were having very late lunches because of the traffic situation. But no tempers flared. Just waning energies and interest. Oh, well.
Bathers praying for healing.
Pura Taman Sawasrati
The last time I went to Bali, Ubud was my trip’s highlight. I liked the rice paddies, the art galleries and yes, the temples too. But there were just too many people here now. There is an area here where you can visit the Ubud Royal Palace, Sawasrati Temple and the Ubud Art Market in onestraight and short path. You bet all corners had tourist buses and hired vans offloading tourists round the clock. The Ubud Art Market still has the few art shops but there are more bag and clothing vendors here now. And I suspect there’s only a few suppliers of these bags and clothing. They’re all the same all over the island!
Puri Saren Agung (Ubud Royal Palace)
Tanah Lot Lunch Place
Tanah Lot
I saved the Tanah Lot and Uluwatu Temple visits for last. Preferably at sunset. But traffic jams can ruin the best plans 😔 Tanah Lot was a “take 2”. We missed sunset the first time we tried to visit. Then on our second visit, the area was cordoned off because of high tide. We opted to simply have a meal in one of the tiny dining areas with a cliff view of the temple being beaten by waves as high as 3 meters. Apo thinks she had her best Nasi Goreng here, even better than the duck lunch and more we had a day earlier in Tebasari Resto in Ubud. As for me, I savoured the scenic view of the temple while enjoying my Sate Babi and banana split for dessert.
Entrance to Tanah Lot
Lunch at Tebasari Resto and Bar
We said goodbye to our last Temple — Uluwatu — earlier than scheduled. We meant to stay till sunset but once more, the crowds compelled us to head back to our hotel to bathe and scrub the dust away. Tomorrow we’ve decided to just stay in. No more temples. We’d just enjoy the hotel, maybe attend the Pilates session, some water fun activities, wait for happy hours 😍 No more sunset watch. Bintang and Bali beers for company and we’re fine.
When you travel with younger members of your family, you’re bound to be doing things you’d normally not do. Like these crazy snapshots on a “nest”, a heart-shaped or round “frame” on the edge, a “hanging bed” or a swing at the edge with the perfect ocean view! We’ve seen these photo opps all over Bali, and found many young people line up for the selfie-shots. What’s that term again? Instagrammable. Some risked their lives for that instagrammable shot. Oh yes! We instantly liked the round and heart-shaped frames as they seemed “safe”. At first, no one wanted to take a swing at the swing. I did. Hmm, why not? I calculated I can just sit there for the shot without really swinging. And voila! 😜 Everyone else in my caboodle followed suit after me and actually ended up doing more poses, more photos.
Look Grandma…. no hands!
Hanging around with apo.
By this time,temple fatigue was about to set in so it was a timely break. The panoramic view in this corner of Badung was quite refreshing and the “selfie pros” that comprise the staff were at one’s service to give you all the tips for a good “instagrammable shot”. Oh, this was insane. But lots of fun. Those frames and hanging swings, beds, nests and cocoons may look steady but we could actually feel it shake! While there was no need to really swing away, the prospect of falling off and sliding into that ravine still posed a bit of a scare.
That tattoo was their idea!
Posing for the camera.
Pardon me for this photo dump. We spent a good half hour here, maybe more, just to indulge ourselves. Many more came after us. Never thought this could be good business! For IDR 60,000, you get lotsa laughs doing all these selfie shots! Hooray for camwhores 😂😂😂
You can’t visit Bali without hitting the temples dotting the entire island. Balinese architecture is very distinct and it shows in its many temples. Whether on land, up in the hills or by the lake, these temples, big and small, adorn the entire island. While Indonesia is predominantly Muslim, the island of Bali is 90% Hindu.
On Day 2 in this island, we visited 2 temples: Ulun Danu Beratan and Taman Ayun. We timed our visit to Tanah Lot at sunset but we failed to consider Bali’s traffic jams. And what horrendous jam we were in — lasting nearly four hours! When we realized we’d miss sunset here, we scrapped Tanah Lot and headed straight back to our hotel in Nusa Dua. Nearly 9pm when we reached it. Maybe another day. Two temples today will do for my caboodle.
Ulun Danu Beratan is a Shaivite water temple on the shores of Lake Beratan. There was a good crowd when we visited, but we noticed they were mostly locals. You may say it’s their Sunday family day since the temple complex includes restaurants, and a garden park. I like this temple complex as it is well-maintained and any temple by the waters is a natural charmer. Being in the highlands via a zigzag road much like our local summer capital (Baguio City), the weather here is cool and breezy. And because it was far from the island capital, there were not as many tourists. Most visitors were locals. By late afternoon, it was foggy around the lake near the highlands of Bedugul mountains when we passed it a second time on our way back to the hotel. Foggy in Bali! And yes, did I say it was cooler too?
Pura Taman Ayun required us to wear those shiny green sarongs. Sun was shining brightly but temps were actually tolerable. We didn’t break a sweat even as we rounded up the temple complex. Because this temple is only 17 kms from Denpasar, it’s among first-of-mind temples to visit for tourists. Built in 1634, it claims to be the mother of all temples in Mengwi. With Chinese inspirations, this Balinese temple with its moss-lined walls and lily ponds is a Bali landmark that shares the same anniversary as another iconic Bali landmark, Uluwatu Temple. Across the temple complex is a Museum which features Balinese rituals and passages. If you don’t want to go too far from the capital and have limited time, this is a good temple choice. And without the traffic!
This family trip was just an idea a few months back. Frustrated with a domestic trip to Boracay or Siargao, we finally found a date to travel together. Semestral break and vacation leaves filed, we were off to the Indonesian island of Bali! Same beach holiday, plus throw in some art and culture. My second time and a first for everyone else. Our lodgings are in the more quiet part of the island — Nusa Dua — but I planned on at least a whole day here in the more hip, more vibrant Seminyak.
Entrance to the Potato Head Beach Club
Potato Beach Club
Potato Beach Club
Todo Gayak Sa Seminyak! (Loosely translated: All geared up for Seminyak!) Both Seminyak and Nusa Dua are resort towns in this Indonesian island province. Nusa Dua (where I stayed the last time) is nearly at the southern tip facing Bandung Strait while Seminyak is on the island’s west facing the Indian Ocean. Both boast of high-end hotels, cafes and bars. Where Seminyak will “dictate” your holiday pace, Nusa Dua lets you have it on your own pace. More tourists and expats find Seminyak more vibrant, while Nusa Dua’s gated resorts promise a lot more quiet and exclusivity. You can bet the golfers are in Nusa Dua as the only golf course in the island is here. But the party people? They’re in Seminyak. Not wanting to miss this vibe, the young adults in our family just have to be here! And true enough, they were not disappointed.
Kaum Restaurant is on the 2nd floor with a perfect ocean view.
Sundown Cocktails
And so, here we are landing in Denpasar International Airport one early morning with a full sunny day ahead of us. What to do? To start the day, we had a forgettable breakfast in The Haven. Bleh. Big mistake. Wasted money on a mediocre buffet. After brekkie, some explored the shops while a couple of us found a spa. Now, you can’t go wrong on that. Next, we trooped to Potato Beach Club for beer and sundown cocktails. The calamari and nachos complete the scene. So did the many day beds and poolside lounge chairs facing the ocean. C’est la vie! We have dinner reservations at Kaum Restaurant in Potato Beach Club but that will have to wait till sunset at 6pm. Meanwhile, the beach beckons. My sleep-deprived family hits the beach like there’s no tomorrow. Happy here, even just having a drip and people-watching.
The pool by the shore.
Pre-dinner aperitif
As for dinner, we got that one right. KAUM Restaurant offered good Indonesian dinner and a great sunset view. Just that I need to go easy on spices lest my hyperacidity acts up again. Indonesian dinner through and through but spices on the side please. The Gado Gado, Nasi Goreng, Sate Babi and Sate Ayam, the Grilled Prawns with special sauce (2 orders of those prawns please!). There’s the fresh tuna marinated in lime and other spices (ooops….), plus the shrimp dumplings. You bet the sun set without much fanfare as we wolfed down every yummy morsel. Oink Oink. 🐖🐖🐖
Seminyak Sunset
Dinner at Kaum Restaurant
By the time we were done with dinner, we were eager to go back to our hotel and take a dip in the pool. Alas! The pool water’s cold! You’d have thought it’s warm being summer, but Bali enjoys very pleasant temps — warm during the day but not sweltering hot, and cool, breezy evenings. And cold water in your pool 🧜🏻♀️
Kuala Lumpur was like a stopover and pit stop on the way to and out of Penang. But we made good visiting some sites in KL and checking out a couple of recommended restos by a local. And Penang may be warmer 🥵 but certainly more interesting! We had a leisurely holiday but managed to cover as much ground as we could.
How we managed despite the high temps and humidity? A good, leisurely breakfast at the hotel, out by 10am to hit the Museums/Mansions/Temples 🕌🕍🏫, lunch, back to the hotel🏩 by 2-3pm to rest 💤, out again by 5pm to hunt for street art 🖼 and check out the jetties ⛵️, dinner then back to hotel 🏨 . For an even better appreciation and comfortable travel though, go during cooler months. December and January should be good months to visit. And soon! Many street art installations are in serious need of repair and restoration. Enjoy! 👣👣👣
Who goes to Penang and fails to visit the Blue Mansion owned by Cheong Fatt Tze and the Green Peranakan Mansion? We enjoyed our guided tours of these two mansions in Georgetown and appreciated how the Penang elite used to live in those days. The official name is Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion, after the man who rose from rags to riches in this corner of the world. Tagged by NY Times as the “Rockefeller of the East”, Cheong was born to a poor family from Guangdong, China but his industry and business savvy earned him prominence, wealth and errrrr….8 wives. The house’s architecture is an impressive fusion of Oriental and European architecture, an impressive display of British and Chinese artisanship. Truly, a masterpiece deserving of the “Most Excellent Project” awarded by the UNESCO Heritage Conservation Awards in 2000. The owners of this late 19th century house certainly did not scrimp building it. Peranakan tiles alone are some of the best and loveliest, and it was crazy walking over these original tiles in the Mansion. No wonder the hit movie “Crazy Rich Asians” used this Mansion in that poignant mahjong scene. And crazy rich may well describe how this heritage house was built. And subsequently restored.
Regarded as one of 10 greatest mansions of the world, the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion has 38 rooms, 7 staircases, 5 courtyards and 220 beautiful windows. The lucky number 8 pervaded around this eclectic masterpiece — in the number of pillars, number of steps in a staircase, etc. As one very prominent migrant known for his philanthropy and business acumen, his charms and fortune extended to his many wives and children. The Mansion claimed “Feng Shui” perfection but such good aura and chi must have worked only while the old man was around. His trading empire expanded around Southeast Asia but he made Penang his base, and this house essentially his favorite 7th wife’s. Tan Tay Poh was 20 when a 70 year old Cheong took her as his 7th. Imagine that gap – 50 years! She bore him one son but she died early at age 42, leaving the house to a son who allegedly squandered away his inheritance. The Mansion suffered disrepair and was in fact heavily dilapidated, with as many as 34 illegal squatter families living in it. Then a group of conservators bought the Blue Mansion to make sure this heritage house is lovingly restored and preserved. Hallelujah!
Mercifully, the restoration followed best-practice standards for the benefit of both locals and tourists who can now be reminded of the flamboyant lifestyles of Penang’s old rich. The indigo blue facade and walls invite attention and it is truly very fortunate that the conservators who purchased this Mansion from the descendants of Cheong Fatt Tze in 1989 turned it into the heritage home and boutique hotel it is now. Its fine dining resto called “Indigo” holds promise judging by its opulent decor and elegant style. We noticed too that its serving staff seem to know every diner like they’re regulars. Looks very exclusive, if you ask me. I’d love to dine there, but not keen about booking a room in the 18-room boutique hotel even for a single night. I bet it’s haunted.
📸 Weng S
On the other hand, the Peranakan Mansion is another Penang gem. Likewise owned by another Chinese tycoon by the name of Chung Keng Quee, this green Mansion showcases Penang’s Peranakan heritage. Penarakan is a culture unique to Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia. Chinese migrants who settled in Southeast Asia and married locals gave birth to this new culture and heritage fondly called Baba Nyonya. Expressed in its architecture, cuisine and traditions, these Baba Nyonyas assumed an altogether unique culture. And you bet this green-hued residence and museum was also quite a popular and favorite movie set for international movies and TV shows like “The Little Nyonya” and “The Amazing Race”.
On display are paraphernalia and memorabilia of the Straits Chinese. Apparently, the Chinese penchant for anything gold, beady and ornate is adequately expressed in the costumes, ornamental decor, even Nyonya slippers to be found here. The hand-crafted jewelries and hand-embroidered wardrobe and footwear must have given rise to local businesses which flourished then. I am particularly impressed with one item where feathers from a kingfisher bird were actually used to adorn an outfit.
Not turquoise beads, but kingfisher feathers!
A trip to Penang should include visits to these 2 mansions. It’s very educational and both these Mansions tell an awesome story! The guide in the Blue Mansion did an impressive job. So did the guide (Ricky) in the Peranakan Museum except that he had a very heavy accent and we had to strain to listen to him. Just the same, we left learning so much more about the Baba Nyonya culture. Chinese migrants, Peranakan Chinese, Straits-Born Chinese. They’re called all these. Peranakan is a Malay word that translates to “local born” . It is not a separate race, but rather a sub-culture within the Chinese community. Peranakan cuisine blends Chinese cooking with Malay traditions. Think LAKSA. 😊
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