lifeisacelebration

I have been to India back in 2014. Happy to have spent my birthday there. As a first-time visitor then, we spent nearly 2 weeks touring around New Delhi, Agra, as well as the pink, blue and white cities of Jaipur, Johdpur and Udaipur. The Golden Triangle, plus more. As expected, highlight of the trip was Taj Mahal.

I’d gladly head back to Udaipur in the heart of Rajasthan and skip Delhi which I found so (air) polluted it threatens an asthma attack. Thought too that there are other spots in India I’d love to explore, like the southern part. So when my travel group suggested Kerala in the south of India, it was a no brainer to join. Tea estates, Kochi history and cruising the backwaters on a houseboat tick off many boxes for me. The only concern we have is the Nipah virus which allegedly hit West Bengal lately, over 2,300 kilometres away. Checked the map and the distance is like Manila to Singapore. Ergo, we decided it’s “safe” and far enough. So here we are.

Securing travel e-visas was an ordeal as the visa system kept crashing. Most of us got stuck on page 2 of the online application but as soon as you pass that, it’s a breeze and processing only took 24-48 hours. Well, for most of us. My apo got hers after more than a week. And only after she got an email (a week from filing) requesting for submission within 24 hours (absolutely not a joke!) of additional information and proof which covered all of 18 pages. A real scramble. But we pulled through and the evisa was promptly issued within 24 hours from the 2nd filing. Phew!

We got a big group this time. These seasoned travelers must share this same sentiment for enchanting tea plantations and Kerala backwaters. Balm for the soul. Soothing to our frayed nerves. Plus I’m assuming most of us are big fans of Indian cuisine. I am. So is my apo (grandchild). And then there’s Fort Kochi. I’m curious how the 3 cultures — Dutch, British and Portuguese — blended in this historic coastal neighborhood’s architecture, heritage and culture. Prior to this trip, all I know about Kerala has to do with Vasco de Gama. This Portuguese explorer reached Kerala in 1498, thus establishing a sea-based trade route between Europe and Asia. It was an epic 2 year voyage from Lisbon, around the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa, towards India’s south western city of Calicut in Kerala. This new maritime route ended the monopoly of Arab and Venetian spice traders. Think pepper and cinnamon. The new route boosted Portuguese economy and commerce. The Portuguese sailor went back a couple more times but on his 3rd trip, he caught malaria, died and was buried in India’s first Catholic Church — Saint Francis Church in Fort Kochi — before his remains were returned to Portugal where he now rests in the much visited- Jeronimos Monastery in Lisbon. Today, the spot where he was first buried (for 14 years, I hear) bears his tombstone.

On our first whole day, our Kerala introduction involved a visit to the public laundry called Dhoby Ghat in Fort Kochi. This centuries-old traditional/manual and community washing center involved “dhobies” who are mostly old ladies doing handwashing and ironing using antique charcoal iron which are very heavy and hot. Frankly, it’s a tad heartbreaking to watch grandmas working way past retirement age. Thankfully, we didn’t stay too long and walked instead towards St. Francis Church. More tourists here. And even more vendors as we headed towards the Chinese fishing nets off the Arabian Sea. These teak and bamboo contraptions are a major tourist attraction here. To be honest though, we were distracted by the many beachfront vendors selling bags, purses, pens, jewelry, clothing and so much more. Before long, our tote bags just grew heavier while our wallets went lighter.

Fort Kochi is an interesting neighborhood. The Jewish town included a museum, a synagogue and an assortment of market stalls selling anything from spices to clothing to jewelry to perfumes, essential oils , woodcarvings and marble statues. We had our fill of shopping around the area and would have loved to check out the Jewish Synagogue but it being a sabbath, it was closed off to tourists like us. And so, we did the next best thing. Shop some more.

Tomorrow we drive towards Munnar and then Thekkady before we meet up with our houseboat in Allepey. It’s only our first whole day here and we’re giddy with excitement for some nature-tripping in the coming days. Not your typical barkada trip, I guess, but let’s just say we love going off the beaten path. Kerala may not be up there within the tourist radar but we’re here to explore and ready for some pleasant surprises. 😄