My first time in Montmartre was unplanned. I was in a conference in London in 2003 and a friend invited me to stay with her while exhausting the remaining lease on her daughter’s flat in Paris. I said yes, and so did another friend who trained in from Zurich. The 3 of us spent dinner nights between Montmartre and Saint Germain des Pres and had an immensely wonderful time. In 2017, I brought my nieta here but only for a night. It was a chilly night so the artists left the square in Place Du Tertre earlier. The “painters’ neighborhood” was without painters that night it threatened to snow. So here we are, back again, with all the sunshine we need on this spring-soon transforming into summer Paris day.

Last time we had a meal in La Bonne Franquette.
This time at Le Consulat.
Coffee and Dessert at La Maison Rose or the
Pink House in Montmartre.
The “painters’ neighborhood” in Place Du Tertre.

Montmartre has many cafes and bistros. If you’ve been watching Amelie and Emily in Paris, the winding streets and hilly paths here would seem familiar to you. Le Consulat and La Bonne Franquette are both hangouts of many artists centuries ago, like Van Gogh, Cezanne, Monet, Renoir, Picasso, to name a few. Some have even set up studios here. And actually lived here, like Van Gogh and Dalí. In one corner, you’d find Espace Dalí where you’d find 300 of his works from a private collection of Beniamino Levi. Levi was one of Salvador Dali’s art collectors and art dealers. He intended to make popular then Dali’s sculptures and engravings aside from his paintings. This gallery is worth a visit if you’re a Dalí fan.

Espace Dali in Montmartre
From Le Consulat where we had lunch, it was a short walk to the Pink House in one direction and the Espace Dali in the opposite direction.

So next time you visit SACRE COEUR Basilica, take a few more steps towards Place Du Tertre (if you’re a Filipino, it’s easy to remember this place that bears a name that sounds like one ex-Prez) to find centuries-old bistros frequented by many artists, poets and novelists. The coffee scene in the Saint Germain des Pres may be great but Montmartre has a number of good cafes too. And for tourists, the souvenir shops here may be more reasonably-priced, methinks.

Montmartre teeming with locals and tourists!
Off Abbesses Metro Station.
(I prefer getting off at Anvers)