Archive for November, 2014



This is the Church of Saint Anne in Molo, Iloilo. Some coral rocks, some sand, some eggwhites. And then, the statues of 16 women saints. Seek their graces and feel empowered, woman!

 

 

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The church is right across the beautiful district plaza where one finds a domed pavilion with 6 Greek goddesses. Why Greek? I honestly don’t know. Our guide kept harping on the “Athens of the Philippines” bit, but I feel it’s a stretch. The Gothic Church stands on its own, and the plaza….well, let’s just say it’s neat and pretty without any reference to the Athens line.

 

 

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Molo. Say that, and what immediately comes to mind is a clear broth with pork and shrimp dumplings. In olden times, the districts and towns along the shoreline were constantly raided by Moro pirates. The place being Iloilo’s version of Chinatown had many Chinese settlers, who pronounced “Moro” as “Molo”. This also explains the Chinese influence on its famous local dish “Pancit Molo”, one of my favorites.

 

 

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The church interiors made great use of columns, many of which along the main aisle is adorned by a female saint. You may address your prayers for intercession to Saints Cecilia, Teresa, Monica, Mary Magdalene, Clara, Martha, Rose de Lima, and many others. The statues, woodwork, stained glass, carvings and paintings are worth a few seconds’ pause, if you will.

 

 

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The ochre color, the flying buttresses, the ornately-designed bas reliefs, the uneven belltowers, and the gold-plated retablo. All that speak of a history surrounding the St. Thomas of Villanueva Church, more commonly, and simply called Miag-Ao Church. 

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The church facade is unique. St. Christopher is depicted like a local, more so as he is illustrated holding on to a coconut tree. There are also other “local” elements represented here like local fruits and flowers. Interestingly, the typical village life is very much represented in this art form.

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The Retablo

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Impressive Altar & Sanctuary

Inside, the interiors are simple, but very elegant. The antique gold plated retablo is impressive. So with the altar. A story goes that the altar dates from the late 1700s which was subsequently lost during the 1910 fire and later found and re-installed during repair excavations in 1982.

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The Flying Buttresses

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One of 2 Bell Towers attached to the church.

You’d wonder why the 2 bell towers at the church front are uneven, or simply different, unmatched. Used as watchtowers against Moro pirates, the 2 towers were built separately. The older and taller belfry is the one on the left side. Apparently, the 2 priests who commissioned the work thought it unimportant to match the design and architecture of the 2 towers. If you ask me, I think the disparity makes it unique.

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The Baptistery


Mangoes. Nothing’s sweeter than the Philippine mangoes. We have them good from Cebu, from Zambales, but the sweetest come from Guimaras Island, just a 15-minute boat ride from Iloilo. By the time we visited, it was almost the end of the peak season and prices have more than doubled. Yet the mangoes remained sweet.

Just a 15- minute banca ride to the island of Guimaras!

Just a 15- minute banca ride to the island of Guimaras!

Sweetest Philippine mangoes!

Sweetest Philippine mangoes!

We visited the oldest Church in the island. San Isidro Labrador Parish in Navalas honors the patron saint of farmers here. Small but charming. And terribly in need of restoration work. Since the church forms part of many itineraries for day-trip visitors of this island, perhaps the local authorities and prominent families here can help restore and preserve this part of Guimaras history.

Navalas Church, oldest in Guimaras

Navalas Church, oldest in Guimaras

Roca Encantada, the Guimaras Resthouse of the Lopezes

Roca Encantada, the Guimaras Resthouse of the Lopezes

Unlike the church in disrepair, Roca Entanda looks grand and well-maintained. The power scions — Lopez Family — has this all-white mansion by the edge of the waters, built on a rock looking out to sea. I can imagine all-night parties here with the seawind breezing through the spacious verandah. Or quiet weekend escapades with a coffee mug or a glass of wine, waiting for either sunrise or sunset. The life!

View from the balcony of Roca Encantada

View from the balcony of Roca Encantada

Mango Ketch, anyone?

Mango Ketchup, anyone?

Local residents line up streets with stalls  selling fresh mangoes, ready to be boxed for those who care to bring home these sweet fruits. There are also stores like McNesters selling mango byproducts like mango piaya, mango ketchup, mango bars, mango barquillos, etc. A foodie’s delight! More of the same stuff can be bought from the Trappist Monastery. As for lunch, how about that famous KBL (kadios, baboy and langka) soupy dish, soured by the local batwan, from Jannel Glycel Beach Resort? You can even opt for a quick swim before your lunch, if you like.

Janna Glycel Beach Resort

Janna Glycel Beach Resort

Trappist Monastery

Trappist Monastery


I confess this trip was hatched as a serious “food trip” with friends. My love affair with shellfish has withstood the test of time and coming home, I’ve been dreaming of my favorite hard-shelled loves. But 4 days of marathon dining can get us into serious trouble so we arranged to visit some heritage churches and ancestral homes as well.

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Of the churches we visited, I was impressed with this Church. Tigbauan’s architecture has Latin American influence ….. “Churriquesque” it’s called. It doesn’t register at all with me. Admittedly the first time I heard of it. Otherwise, I would have thought it refers to some barbecued specialty dish. (I’m hopeless) . I wonder how it looked back when it was constructed in 1575 before a 1948 earthquake destroyed much of it but for the bell tower, a few pillars and church facade. The mosaics which were actually what caught my attention in the first place, were installed when the church was restored following the 1948 destruction.

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Officially named Saint John of Sahagun Church, many simply refer to it as Tigbauan Church after the town where it is located. San Juan de Sahagun was an Augustinian friar who earned many enemies during his time in Salamanca, Spain where he was known for his sermons and scathing words which offended many from the upper echelons of society. It was believed then that the fierce saint died from poisoning by a woman who sought revenge. The woman was a nobleman’s concubine who was “enlightened” by Saint John of Sahagun . Wicked woman!

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Old, original, or not, I am impressed with the mosaic interiors. The altar looks lovely in an austere way. The niches with the Last Supper, saints as well as the Stations of the Cross, look just as charming in an old world way. I just hope the local parishioners and authorities work on the full restoration of the belfry and facade, remnants of this centuries-old church.


And it’s a wrap! Kaput. Enough. Pen down. Laptop off. One off the bucket list. Who knows when we’d return to explore more of this exotic country? But for now…… we rest our pens.

 

 

Photo Credit: BobI Francisco

Photo Credit: BobI Francisco

A Shutterbug's Haven.

A Shutterbug’s Haven.

 

 

FROM MAHARAJAHS TO MAHARANAS

 

Jaipur

Amber Fort

Dressing Up for Diwali Festival

Mehrangarh Fort in Johdpur

Ranakpur’s Jain Temple

Taj Mahal

The Sikh Temple in Delhi

Shah Jahan, the Master Builder

Qutub Minar

 

 

The opulence and poverty alternate in quick succession.

The opulence and poverty alternate in quick succession.

 

 

MUSINGS AND RAMBLINGS

 

 

A Birthday In India

The Colors, Sounds and Scents of India

 

 

 

A TOURIST’s PRINCELY PLEASURES

 

 

A Posh Birthday Lunch in a Royal Manor

First Impressions of Taj Lake Palace Hotel

Day 2 in Taj Lake Palace Hotel

 

 

 

Street Food

Street Food

 

FOOD PORN

 

As Spicy As It Gets

Feeling Royalty in Jharokha

 

 

It's good to be home 😄

It’s good to be home 😄


India is never short on ancient forts, palaces, towers, temples, monuments. Among its many heritage sites is this 12th century complex which includes this soaring 75-meter tower erected soon after the defeat of Delhi’s last Hindu Kingdom. Come sunset, it glows as a lovely redstone and marble minaret. The complex is quite manageable to explore, and we picked a lovely time of the day to do it.

 

 

The 2nd tallest minaret in India, just a few kilometers south of Delhi.

The 2nd tallest minaret in India, just a few kilometers south of Delhi.

We found many local tourists within the complex.

We found many local tourists within the complex.

 

 

We visited the Qutab Minar complex on our last day in India, just hours before our departure. Glad we didn’t miss this site which is another UNESCO World Heritage Site. The minaret towers above some ruins much like The Forum in Rome, Italy. Built to honor the onset of Islamic rule in India, Qutub Minar is not without controversy. Sometimes called Qutab, after the first Islamic ruler, or Qutub which literally translates to “pole of justice”, the tower symbolizes “Islamic Justice”in this corner of the world.

 

 

It was a lovely time of day to visit Qutab Minar.

It was a lovely time of day to visit Qutab Minar.

Islamic calligraphy (verses from the Quran) and Hindu motifs combine in many of the monuments to be found here.

Islamic calligraphy (verses from the Quran) and Hindu motifs combine in many of the monuments to be found here.

 

 

Earthquakes. Wear and Tear. All these left the tower damaged and tilted slightly on one side. The first 3 storeys are made of red sandstone, the next 4th and 5th of marble. The many steps could be scaled before but a recent accident involving schoolchildren forced authorities caring for the monument to stop such uphill excursions. Access is not allowed now. The view from the top must be lovely, especially at sunset, when the adjacent red sandstone ruins within the complex glow as the sun fades from view.

 

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Spices of India. Masala. And I thought it was another spice. Rather, masala is a mix of ground spices. The very heart of Indian cuisine. And India is soooo rich in spices. Turmeric. Cumin. Pepper. Cardamom. Chilies. Fennel. Cinnamon. Caraway. Anise. Ginger. Coriander. And so much more.

 

 

 

 

Poori or Puri  Unleavened Bread. As puffy as it gets! With potato masala.

Poori or Puri Unleavened Bread. As puffy as it gets! With potato masala.

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Chole. Chickpeas is love <3

Chole. Chickpeas is love ❤

 

 

I was quite prepared for the spicy cuisine. And I do like Indian food. One of my fav dishes is the ubiquitous Palak Paneer found on every buffet spread. That plus the dhal (lentils) and chole (chickpeas) paired with all types of flatbread. Naan, Poori, Chapati, Paratha of all types — onion, garlic, paneer, etc. And the chutneys!

 

 

Chutneys galore!

Chutneys galore!

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All that bread. Imagine all that ghee. A couple more weeks here and I couldn’t slide into my pants. Plus the rice. Biryani? Basmati? Carbo overload. And don’t forget the okra — short, tiny, and crunchy. Loaded with uric acid, if you aren’t careful. Yay!

 

 

They look like doughnuts but these breads must be filled with ghee!

They look like doughnuts but these breads must be filled with ghee!

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And how can you resist the curry? My fav is mutton curry, which I can’t get enough off. Rice or flatbread, the mutton curry is wiped clean off the plate or bowl. Soaking naan across the curry plate is yum! Just mind the spices. There were others, but I couldn’t get past a tasting portion without burning my tongue. Phew!

 

 

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Indian "fried rice" was such a hit with me!

Indian “fried rice” was such a hit with me!

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As for desserts, that uber-sweet, syrupy gulab balls should really push your sugar levels past the Diabetes 2 threshold. Tooooo much. I won’t mind not seeing them for a year. And the almonds? Freshly shelled and milky white not to be ignored. Other nuts like pistachio also found their way into some sinful desserts.

 

 

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On our last day, our guide shared this home recipe with us. I tried it…. and ended up with a spinach dip instead. (I’m hopeless)

Palek Paneer (Spinach + Cottage Cheese)

Boil spinach until wilted. Osterize to make purée. Set aside.

In a pan, put veg or olive oil. Sauté cumin seed or put cumin powder; add finely chopped onions or onion purée. When browned, put garlic paste and bit of ginger paste. Put spinach; let boil. Add chili powder, salt to taste. Add cubed cottage cheese. Add tomato purée. Add little hot water to dilute.

 

 

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Thank you, Chikie, for some of the food photos


He is called by many titles, but one sticks out in my mind. The “King of Marvels”. Rightfully so. It would have been enough to say he founded Taj Mahal, to honor his beloved Mumtaz Mahal, his favorite wife. But there is more. Truly, his reign was marked by a golden era in arts and architecture in this exotic country. Incredible India, Incredible Shah Jahan! 

 

 

It sparkles under the sun. It glistens under a crescent moon.

It sparkles under the sun. It glistens under a crescent moon.

This is how the Taj Mahal looks when viewed from Agra Fort, just 2 kms away.

This is how the Taj Mahal looks when viewed from Agra Fort, just 2 kms away.

 

 

Besides Taj Mahal, give credit to Shah Jahan for a few more heritage sites. There’s Agra Fort, just a stone’s throw from the iconic Taj Mahal. It is also the place where Shah Jahan breathed his last. Right there in the Octagonal Tower of Agra Fort where he was imprisoned by one of his own sons following a war of succession. Sad. As cliché as it sounds, it’s where he viewed the “eternal teardrop on the cheek of time”. And while Taj Mahal sparkles, the Agra Fort is another marvel in its own right. 

 

 

Moti Masjid  (Pearl Mosque) inside Agra Fort

Hall of Private Audience (Diwan i Khas) inside Agra Fort

You get more than enough dose of those arches here. Lovely!

Diwan I Aam. Hall of Public Audience.

 

 

Once the capital of India before Shah Jahan moved it to Delhi, Agra is never short on monuments and forts. Most people just visit the Taj Mahal. Well, it is certainly worth seeing, and I perfectly understand if tourists spend more time there or wish to simply have their “moments” by not adding more sites to their list after seeing the Taj. But the Agra Fort sort of completes the journey to Agra. Shah Jahan is an absolute builder of marvels and his preference for buildings made of white marble shows in this addition to the red sandstone fort started by his grandfather. The Moti (meaning pearl) Masjid is a fine example of Mughal architecture.

 

 

The 16th century Mughal monument known as Agra Fort

The 16th century Mughal monument known as Agra Fort

Agra has lots to offer beside the Taj Mahal.

Agra has lots to offer beside the Taj Mahal.

 

 

There are more. But Shah Jahan’s final masterpiece is the Jama Masjid, touted as the largest mosque in India. Amidst the chaos of the bazaar just across it, this “Friday Mosque” can hold as many 25,000 devotees. Like many other temples, we left our footwear just outside the mosque to walk on tiles dating from the 17th century. Towering over Old Delhi, the mosque is an aberration in this otherwise chaotic world of rickshaws and narrow alleys. A ride in one of these rickshaws past many open-fronted stalls, many spilling into the alleys, breaks all tranquility gained from a few minutes inside the Mosque courtyard. Incredible!

 
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Free and communal serving of food may take its origin from Sufism but it is a long-held tradition and practice in Sikh Temples here in New Delhi and elsewhere. LANGAR is the name for the large community kitchen, where volunteers can be found peeling and chopping onions, making bread, cooking lentils, etc. The volunteers, called Sevadars, work in the Langars attached to all Sikh Temples (Gurudwara), to prepare vegetarian meals fed to pilgrims or visitors, WITHOUT DISCRIMINATION. Food sharing can extend to as many as 20,000 pilgrims as in this Sikh Temple in New Delhi, regardless of faith, class, and status in life.

 

 

This is the temple pool where pilgrims cleanse themselves.

This is the temple pool where pilgrims cleanse themselves.

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I almost missed this kitchen as my group left while I was literally “testing the waters” from the temple pool. By the time I looked up, they were gone. I knew I couldn’t leave without seeing how the kitchen works. More so, how the feeding of as many as 20,000 pilgrims is done. I am not sure how I lost them, but I would have thrown a tantrum if I missed this!

 

 

Feet, arms, legs, face washed with water from this pool.

Feet, arms, legs, face washed with water from this pool.

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The Sikh Temple in New Delhi

The Sikh Temple in New Delhi

 

 

No one is allowed entry unless you take off your shoes or sandals and wrap something around your head. You also pass a square tub to wash your feet upon entry. Inside, both pilgrims and visitors mingle —- the only tell-tale signs distinguishing one from the other being that the pilgrims come here to worship while the visitors itch to snap a photo with their cams. Unfortunately, photography isn’t allowed inside the temple.

 

 

 

Sikh men wrap turbans around their uncut hair.

Sikh men wrap turbans around their uncut hair.

He caught me snapping a photo. Perdon.

He caught me snapping a photo. Perdon.

The volunteers peeling onions.

The volunteers peeling onions.

 

 

It is curious how food is prepared and fed to as many as 20,000 pilgrims and visitors. We met many volunteers, each obviously knowing what to do in that huge community kitchen. A system is in place. Although I found the lighting quite dim, the kitchen was kept clean and well-ventilated. Each volunteer busy with their assigned tasks. Huge baskets of naan and chapati. Large tubs of lentils or dahl. All served to people without regard for race, creed, faith and stature in life. Food is shared with whomever comes.

 

 

 

Ready for distribution

Ready for distribution

No rich or poor, pilgrim or not. Everyone is given a free meal.

No rich or poor, pilgrim or not. Everyone is given a free meal.

Breadmaking 101.

Breadmaking 101.

 

 

I wish there was time to line up, sit crosslegged and join the others to be fed on silver trays. I like the idea of sitting there with so many others, waiting for this man to drop bread on your silver tray, and another coming to scoop some lentils for each of them. I’ve seen it on TV and in some documentary, and would have relished being there and actually experiencing it.

 

 

 

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Pilgrims and visitors wait for their portions.

Pilgrims and visitors wait for their portions.

 

 

SIKHISM. much has been written and said about this religious sect. One of many tracing its roots here in India. Amazing how this exotic country has encouraged so many life philosophies and faiths. There may be a whole world of difference between Sikhism and Hinduism, or for that matter, other religions. But what sticks uppermost in my mind is the Sikh belief in equality. No caste system for this faith. All beings created equal. Now, that speaks volumes, don’t you agree?

 

 

Bread served hot!

Bread served hot!

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Having visited a Sikh temple, I am now inclined to pick up a book on Sikhism. You bet I am intrigued. I am curious how it began — amidst all the other religions dominating India — and how magnificent temples and community kitchens like this are funded. I am curious about their other beliefs. Did it just branch out as another protestant sect from Hinduism? Is the “equality” philosophy the “breaking point” ? Curious. Curious.

 

 

Feeding is so systematic , like "clockwork".

Feeding is so systematic , like “clockwork”.

Volunteer bread makers.

Volunteer bread makers.

A large tub of lentils!

A large tub of lentils!

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He was 14 at the time. The grandson of Akbar the Great, famous for his empire marked by war victories, grand fortress palaces, flourishing arts and culture,  and a royal  harem   consort of 300+ wives and concubines. Then named Prince Khurram, he was the 5th Mughal Emperor of India, likewise destined for greatness and touted as a favorite of his grandfather Akbar. She was known then as Arjumand Banu Begam, a Muslim Persian Princess, hawking glass and silk beads in Meena Bazaar.  It was LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT. Yet the wedding took place only after 5 years and 2 wives.  

 

 

Photo Credit: Ernie Albano

Photo Credit: Ernie Albano

 

 

Five years later and after 2 wives. But she was his greatest love. His favorite. So she was renamed Mumtaz Mahal meaning “Jewel of the Palace”. Yet she was hardly at the Palace, accompanying the Emperor, then bearing the name “Shah Jahan” — meaning “King of the World” — in his military adventures while bearing his 14 children. Such devotion. Such love. I could almost hear the royal “gossip” about this great love affair.

 

 

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Blue-eyed Shah Jahan and Lovely Mumtaz Mahal. Theirs is the best, hauntingly heart-rending love story of all time. The 15th century Pearl Mosque in Agra bears a grand exterior that glistens, sparkles, and glows as the sun passes overhead. It must look magical under a crescent moon. But for now, we stand in awe just viewing it, nearly dancing in sunlight and shade, dazzlingly white.

 

 

You ride this rickshaw on your way to Taj Mahal.

You ride this rickshaw on your way to Taj Mahal.

The "Teardrop" hides behind this fort-like gate.

The “Teardrop” hides behind this fort-like gate.

 

 

Shah Jahan’s reign is the Golden Era for Mughal art and architecture. Yet he is undoubtedly made most famous by this single feat — the builder of Taj Mahal to honor his favorite wife. The story goes that Shah Jahan was so heartbroken that he mourned Mumtaz’ death so bad that his hair all turned gray overnight when he emerged from mourning in one of the royal rooms. The Pearl Mosque is now an Indian icon and no visit to India is ever complete without visiting this royal tomb.

 

 

A glimpse of the royal tomb as one enters the gate.

A glimpse of the royal tomb as one enters the gate.

Jimi Hendrix was here!

Jimi Hendrix was here!

 

 

Truly, the Taj Mahal remains unsurpassed in its beauty. Shining marble with inlaid precious stones that glows under the glare of the sun as much as it glistens when darkness sets in. You feel Shah Jahn’s love and devotion just looking at it. Heartbroken, yet he lived and had a long reign till he fell seriously ill that it triggered a war of succession among his sons. The nearby Agra Fort is from where Shah Jahan, in his last days, viewed his Taj Mahal across the river. Deposed and imprisoned by his own son for the rest of his life. He intended to build a Black Mosque as his resting place, but he was destined to lie side by side with his beloved Mumtaz inside this magnificent royal tomb instead. A teardrop on the face of eternity. A monument to love.

 

 

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The octagonal porch where Shah Jahan died, pining for his beloved Mumtaz.

 

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(Don’t you just love this selfie photo by Ernie Albano? Thanks, Ernie!)