Tag Archive: Europe



The main plaza or Plaza Mayor is just a few steps from Puerta del Sol in Madrid. Your best bet is to take the Metro and get off in Sol. To make things even more right, be sure to cross the street from Sol towards the Ayuntamiento or City Hall and stand firmly with your feet on that marker that says “Kilometro O”. A very touristy behavior, but who cares?

 

 

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To the right of the Ayuntamiento are 2 streets both ending in the Palacio Real and Almudena Cathedral area. The street on the right is Calle del Arenal where you would be tempted to drop by for churros con chocolate at Chocolateria San Gines. So take the road on the left instead. That’s Calle Mayor where you walk past Museo de Jamon ….. Oops.

 

 

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On your left side, watch out for an alley that leads to Plaza Mayor. I think this is Calle Felipe III. Take this alley and be sure to drop in on this small shop where you can check out your “apellido” and buy a keychain with your family heraldry or insignia or emblem….. I found mine, and my family name like many Filipinos has Spanish roots. Mine is a special clan of mercenary warriors noted for their bravery. Paid soldiers!

 

 

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Within the square you may want to visit the Tourist Information Center. You can pick up maps here and check out some guided tours. Many chose to do the “hop on, hop off” red tour bus for €20. If you’re not keen on walking and would just want to sightsee from your bus seat (it’s open on the 2nd level), then this is for you. Otherwise, take the unlimited tourist pass for €9.30 (1day) or €13 (3 days) which you can use taking the metro or bus and explore on your own. After all, the metro stops for the tourist sites are clearly marked and Madrid has a superb metro system.

 

 

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Again, you’d find many street artists — should I call them plaza artists? OR buskers?  — around the statues of King Philip III and the corners of the square. Many dining outlets too — mainly catering to the tourist crowd, I guess, judging by their patrons. You can have your paella and jamon fix in any of the tascas here. (Tascas mean “local gathering place”) Or you may simply have that sangria or cafe con leche with some tapas (appetizers) in any of the open-air bars and just people-watch. Buen provecho!

 

 

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Beyond Puerta del Sol, past Plaza Mayor, is this most charming mercado like no other. I wasn’t looking for it when I found it. And that was on my Day 2 in Madrid. Since then, I would always drop in whenever I’m in the area. Just love it here!

 

 

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Each time I drop in, the place is jampacked! Noisy, crowded, so lively, so Spanish! I don’t know how these Madrileños manage to gesture with their hands while holding a wine glass and a croqueta or Quezo on the other hand. And you know what I mean when I say “gesture with their hands” , or with their shoulders! Think only the Italians come close.

 

 

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No chairs, no stools. You and your friends around a cocktail table and drink, eat like there’s no tomorrow. Tried the paella, the croquetas, jamon and some Quezo Manchego. Next time, I’d try the yogurt. Saw a photo of Prince Charles and his dear Camilla trying out some favors in that stall.

 

 

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And all that seafood from fried boquerones and sardines to steamed and grilled oysters and squids. Plus don’t forget the chupitos, baby eels, and so much more — in tapas or racion sizes! Nom Nom Nom. This is my neighborhood. I feel happy just people-watching here. That, while munching, makes me forget to take more photos. But these would do, won’t they? I’m busy ☺

 

 

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Errr……lastly, go and have that drink. And I don’t mean just sangria.

 

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The first time I went to the Almudena Cathedral, I wasn’t expecting much. After all, Madrid allegedly pales in comparison with other major cities around Spain in terms of antiquity. In plain terms, it means Madrid’s sacred destinations are not that “OLD”.

 

 

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Dedicated to the Virgin of Almudena, the construction of the cathedral began in 1883 but was completed a century later in 1993. The name Almudena comes from Almudaina, Arabic for “wheat-store”, because there was one close by.

 

 

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The story goes that when the Muslims were about to conquer Madrid, the Madrileño Christians hid a statue of the Blessed Virgin Mary behind a wall to spare it from being abused and profaned by the conquering Muslims. When King Alphonsus VI regained the city, the wall miraculously crumbled, revealing the statue of our Lady.

 

 

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What the Church may have lacked in terms of architectural credit and historical significance, this Neo-gothic edifice made up for with its Neo-Romanesque Crypt which houses a 16th century image of the Virgin of Almudena. Kind of creepy inside the crypt, helped along by the background music as one moves from altar to altar, crypt to crypt. As I walked OVER some graves of presumably distinguished Madrileños, adorned with potted plants and flowers, I couldn’t help wondering if this “real estate” is priced highest on a per square meter basis in this corner of the world. (Disculpe, for this irreverence)

 

 

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If you happen to be in the area of the Palacio Real, make sure to drop by the Cathedral, and then the Crypt. You can also buy some religious souvenirs on your way in or out, like what I got (that’s the photo of the 16th century painting of the Virgin of Almudena). Then before heading home or back to your hotel, you have the option to spend the rest of the day exploring the gardens around the Royal Palace or walk back to Puerta del Sol, passing the Opera. If you’re too tired, then take that metro ride from the Opera Metro Station.

 

 

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Palaces, castles and humongous cathedrals fascinate every Filipino. 🏰The grandeur, the pomp and pageantry associated with royalty is simply not our reality. Even Malacanañ Palace is really a token 2-story palace compared with what one finds in other parts of the world.

 

 

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Palacio Real literally translates to “Royal Palace”, much like Real Madrid (of football fame) means “Royal Madrid”. 👑All of 2,800 rooms covering a floor area of 135,000 square meters, it is THE largest palace in all of Europe. So…. Buckingham Palace, move over!

 

 

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The present King has chosen to live with his royal family 👸elsewhere (Palacio de la Zarzuela) on the outskirts of Madrid. Thus, the State-owned Palace is only used for official or state ceremonies. At the time I visited, the Palace was closed owing to some State ceremony. Though I missed viewing the interiors of this architectural wonder, I joined many others – Madrileños and tourists alike – waiting through all the pageantry. Changing not only of the guards, but also of the horses! And my, those guards are all cuties, I kid you not! Take it from this over-the-hill hag….. I hardly use those words to describe MEN. But I must confess that I do find King Juan Carlos a HUNK very, very charming!

 

 

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And look at these horses! What is it called — the Spanish Riding Academy? But that’s in Vienna, near the Hofburg Palace. Confused? The Riding School in Vienna was so named because the “noble” horses originated from the Iberian Peninsula. I know zilch about horses but I have read that the Spanish and Arabic horses rank up there among other breeds. No wonder they rub elbows (or butts?) with royalty. ☺

 

 

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The Palace is just a short walk from the Opera. I took the metro 🚉 up to Opera and walked on the right side of the royal theatre till I reached the Plaza de Oriente, a well-manicured garden on the side of the royal palace. I also didn’t miss the chance to stroll along the Sabatini Garden where I felt I intruded on many a romantic trysts. 💗 Oooooops!

 

 

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Here’s another favorite haunt of our national hero while he was here in Madrid. Can’t blame him. Parque de Retiro, which used to be exclusive to royalty, is such a pleasure to be in anytime of day. Just take the Linea 2 (red line) metro 🚉 to Retiro and it’s right there as you exit out of the station.

 

 

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Now, I wonder how many times Rizal went on dates in this park. Remember, JPR lived a frugal life here in Madrid and a paseo around Parque de Retiro would have been a cheap but romantic way to take out a señorita.

 

 

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These days, you’d find street musicians 🎺🎷🎸🎤 and illegal vendors (selling their wares on laid out rugs)👜💼👢 around the park. It was a bit of a challenge to take a good photo of the pond and the monuments without these characters. And then there are the lovers. 👫💑 Of all kinds.

 

 

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Sundays are crowded in Parque de Retiro where locals enjoy just strolling around the gardens, 🚲biking, renting boats 🚤 to row around the pond, drinking their cafe con leche ☕ or cafe cortado, shopping for “smuggled” bags 👜peddled by vendors on blankets or rugs laid out on pavements, skateboarding, or simply shooting the breeze while listening to street musicians. 🎤

 

 

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JPR must have been so inspired by this ex-royal garden that he named his place of exile in Dapitan as “Mi Retiro.” This is also the place where an Igorot woman died in the dead of winter while “on exhibit” in the Exposición de Filipinas in 1887. The exhibit meant to showcase Philippine artifacts, art works and botanical specimens which included “sample Philippine tribe peoples” like the Igorots, Manobos and Negritos. You can just imagine how JPR criticized Spain for its violation of Filipinos’ human rights which resulted in the death of this Igorot human specimen, while other tribe “samples” contracted pneumonia due to the bitter cold.

 

 

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Tsk. Tsk. It’s stories like these that make me ever so grateful for the sacrifices and bravery of our national heroes. As a reminder of what they went through as against the freedoms that we now enjoy, one can’t help but lament how much we have forgotten. Truly, we as a nation need to reconnect with our past so we do not fail to take things for granted and more importantly, to regain our national identity and pride as a people.

 

Aaaaahhhh…… Enough said. Or written. 📝


Another photowalk till my legs ached. Calling it quits for the day, I took the same path towards our hotel for the week. 🚶Along the way, I stopped by the Islas de Filipinas and Madrid’s equivalent of our Rizal Park. ⛲There are similar parks for the other countries which centuries before were colonies of Spain.🇪🇸

 

 

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Inside the park, there is a joggers’ path 👣👟🏃and a bike lane.🚲 Several benches were scattered inside the park where the center has been developed into a golf range.⛳ In one corner, there was even a cervezaria. 🍺The classier version of our beer garden. 🍻

 

 

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At the corner is the monument to our national hero, flanked by two tablets of Dr. Jose Rizal’s Mi Ultimo Adios and its Filipino translation.📝 Imagine that! Dear Spain had this man, our national hero, wiped off the face of the earth yet built this monument in his memory.

 

 

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I may not speak Spanish but somehow feel unintimidated by this somewhat familiar language. I couldn’t resist eavesdropping whenever and wherever I am, catching a few understandable words but get stumped not being able to figure out the whole deal.

 

 

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I downloaded this Spanish Talk Pad and thought it was a most clever thing to do. Ha! Ha! And another Ha! The easy part is when you are able to express yourself, with or without the Talk Pad, either with a question or a statement. The hard part is getting a response and not understanding it. Duh 😦

 

 

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Like getting directions. Easy enough to begin with “Donde……” and getting confused with the isquierda (left) and derecha (right!) directions. These are words which found their way into our local language….. but somehow the meanings got crossed or lost.

 

 

So, imagine us Indios hunting for an apartment in Madrid. With all the Internet research on available flats within our budget, picking up that phone to dial the number and inquire is an ordeal. ☎ You see, hand gestures don’t work over the telephone. Yay, what to do?

 

 

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We prayed for an angel. We found one. Through a friend, we met this Pinay working as a waitress in an Italian Resto who speaks Spanish fluently. What’s more, she just happens to be on a one-week leave. For 3 days, she made telephone calls, scheduled the visits, and accompanied us inspecting the apartments. She even negotiated in our behalf. We “followed” her negotiations through the familiar uno-dos-tres numbers we Pinoys have grown used to. Thank God!

 

 

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This morning, we finally found the flat we wanted. Not exactly in the price range we wanted for its size, but we drew comfort in the friendliness of the porter and admin staff and the location. Move-in set this March 5. We’re “squatters” in Doyee’s flat 2 floors down while Mayette’s own flat is not yet ready for occupancy. Time to do our laundry too. Having concluded the deal, I passed one bar and decided to have my regular brew. No hot chocolate this time. Nor cafe con leche. Too much milk there. Had cafe cortado instead —- more coffee than milk. ☕ My usual. And a cinnamon roll. Then, back to my hotel for some siesta. The next few days would be devoted to some serious IKEA shopping.

 

 

Hasta luego! I’d get busy with the laundry.

 

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Just before this journey into cuchinillo country, we took time to visit Cebu. Land of Lechon and Chicharon. I still have my backblogs on our visits to Boljoon, Dalaguete, Carcar and Simala, but these would have to give way to my first journal on our flight out of Manila into this land of cuchinillo, tapas, flamenco y abanicos. ✈

 

 

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Still reeling from my hypertensive moments post-Cebu, I promised myself I’d stay away from my beloved pig. On February 22 we took our 11:40pm Emirates flight into Madrid via Dubai. All of 15 hours combined or so, plus 3 hours waiting in Dubai for the connecting flight. The 2 flights each served 2 meals which I happily munched through 4 in-flight movies. Didn’t even get the chance to read my book. Had a few winks, only to wake up and agonize over whether to have the Arabic Mezze or the Deli platter. And that’s only for breakfast!

 

 

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Dubai airport is truly grandiose but lacks the character I found in Singapore’s Changi or Hongkong Airport. Perhaps I missed a few interesting corners, so I vowed to give it a second review on my homeward journey. As for Madrid’s Barajas Airport, it looks like any other as we breezed through immigration and got out in this bitter cold weather at 12:30pm! Immediately, I felt justified squeezing in my fleece vest into my 10 kilo trolley bag.

 

 

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By the time we reached our NH Breton Hotel in the Chamartin area, I was lusting for a quick shower and jumping into my bed. The hotel is centrally located. Just off the corner is a bus stop and the Metro. Right in front of the hotel is a fruit store and beside it, a 24 hour convenience store. I promptly bought 4 big bottles of mineral water, a dozen oranges, bread, cold cuts, yogurt and vegetable salad. And some lip balm and skin cream too. My chapped lips and dry skin need some TLC after only a few hours out in the cold.

 

 

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Having freshened up, I did a quick round up for a late afternoon walk and check-see of the metro station and nearby dining places. I was pleased to find that Rios Rosas Metro Station is just a short walk from the hotel. I took mental note of the Blue and Red Lines which will take me to the Sol and Retiro Stations. Also of the food outlets serving Desayuno (breakfast of churros con chocolate or cafe con leche) for only €2. This is way better than the €12 breakfasts available in the hotel! On lazy mornings, I can even make my own sandwich with the bread, cold cuts and vegetable salad I bought.

 

 

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Self-Served Breakfasts!

 

 

All things looking up. Except one very important thing. Internet. Enjoyed the free 30minute wifi, only to be prompted to buy at €8.85 per day for unli-surfing. I made full use of the free wifi in the hotel. Refusing to pay the €8.85 daily Internet rate (who are they kidding?), I find it uncool to pay €80 for a room with no free wifi.

 

 

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I am NOT cranky yet. I have my books. But these Internet withdrawal symptoms are getting in the way. Woke up early at 5am. Looked out the window from our hotel room. By 7:30am, it was still dark. Sunlight came at 8am. I downed 4 naranjas in one sitting just to shake off the blues. Got to find a coffee shop with free wifi. Tried 2, but no luck. The waitress said they don’t share the password with paying diners. And this is Madrid in the heart of Europe! Ooooops. There goes the temper. Gawd, I need another shower.

 

 

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View From Our Hotel Window


I have visited Greece twice but I missed the famous islands the first time around.  Just the same, that first visit got me all worked up in anticipation of the historical landmarks to be found in Athens, Delphi , Mycenea, Thessalonika.  The first time around, the highlights of my trip were decidedly Athens and Meteora.  The second time around,  the highlights were the islands of Santorini, Rhodes, Patmos and Crete.   Mykonos?  Well, yeah, it is one party island much like our Boracay (with windmills painted blue and white) but it pales in culture and aesthetics compared to the other islands.

Acropolis

There  is a day for the capital’s classical sights.  The Parthenon atop the Acropolis.  Straight out of a history book,  here I am staring at the crowning glory of all of Greece.  Ancient civilization.  The Erechtheum with its Port of Maidens. The beautifully preserved Theseum, Roman Temple of Zeus, Theater of Dionysus and the Agora where Socrates taught. Vistas of the Royal Palace and various buildings in the city contrast with the remains of a glorious past.  I was so hyped the whole morning. Knowing these colossal structures stood long before the birth of Jesus!  The books available at the Museum have photos of the remaining buildings with transparent overlay showing how the buildings must have looked before.  Amazing.  The Statue of Athena stood tall in the transparencies.  You just have to give it to the Greeks for giving birth to this civilization.  No wonder their tourism industry is flourishing.  Some inheritance they got!  In a way, I was afraid some of the structures may not  last long enough for future generations. At the time, I silently wished a second visit is made possible where these structures still remain. (Wish granted. Amen )  I also made another prayer that I continue to enjoy good health to be able to sustain my penchant for these adventures. (Another answered prayer. Amen)  Looking around,  I found quite a number of senior tourists experiencing difficulties scaling the steps.   Some gave up and started their descent.  A pity.  The highlight of the Parthenon visit lies at the top,  with the added bonus of a panoramic view of the sprawling metropolis. I remember sipping a cup of coffee in the Museum cafe, seeing how majestic the Acropolis looked from afar.  It is a no-brainer that the early Greeks set up the seat of their government on top of this mountain.  There was no way any army can attack from any side without being watched!

Meteora Rocks!


And then, there’s Meteora.  Oh, how I adore this place.  One can’t help communing with Nature in this open air museum.   Monasteries atop the rocks!  I cannot even imagine how those monks built these convents and monasteries atop these rocks.  Nor how the monks were put in cage-like nets to be pulled by fellow-monks atop the rocks to reach the monasteries.  I remember the first time I visited I stayed overnight in the nearby town of Kalambaka .  On a free afternoon,  I strolled around the town to find many friendly Greek men and women, always ready to offer you tea or if you’re lucky, ouzo.   Now ouzo is the equivalent of our “lambanog” in the provinces.  And much like the local folks back home,  the people here seem ready to pick up a conversation and idle the rest of the afternoon away, while nibbling on olives!

Not much has changed the second time I visited Meteora.  Yet, those stairs we scaled going up a number of monasteries seem more steep now.  That is the difference 13 years make!  Same vision,  weaker knees. Same enthusiasm,  not the same energy.  This discovery thus compels me never to stop making adventures while you still can.   It’s my personal mantra.  I dare you to prove me wrong! (Note: the last 2 photos are not mine.  My rusty P&S won’t do justice to the awesome views in Metereora. )

Sequel would be on the islands of Greece.  Soon………….

More photos to be found here:

No Senior Moments, I remember Greece 1996

Revisiting Meteora

Europe: Then And Now


Back in 1986,  I traveled to Europe for the first time. Alone.  At the time, I was still smoking and it was sheer torture to be in flight or around airports and train stations all of 21 hours.  Every chance I got, I filled my lungs with nicotine like it was the last stick I’d smoke.  I read the instructions over and over, matching them with the signages I passed, hoping I’d find my way to Bradford, England without a hitch.

 

 

The London stopover ended with my safe landing in Heathrow airport.  From there,  I took the train for Bradford.  Not an hour or two to check out the London sights  That had to wait for much later. I was expected for dinner somewhere within the halls of Bradford University.  From the tropics,  I had my first taste of snow when I got out of the train station in Bradford.  I wanted to run and throw my first snowball.  That had to wait too.  At the time, I was simply too eager to get inside Charles Morris Hall and sit by the fire to warm my fingers which were threatening to freeze.   As I “thawed”,  I met my new friends from Saudi Arabia, Italy, Finland, Brazil, Ethiopia, Burma, Solomon Islands, Iran, Nigeria, Sudan,  Poland, India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, and Cyprus.  I have lost touch with all of them.  Hopefully, with this blog I can find some with greying hair but with the same smiles I still fondly remember.  These friends introduced me to varied flavors of the Orient, African, Middle East and Western cuisine:  from the Indian tandoori to the Italian pasta (back then, I only knew the spaghetti with meatballs), to Sudanese cabbage with rice stuffing yummy dish, to Brazilian beans and more beans!  Oh my,  too much beans.  Where are you guys?  Zeze, Raoul,  Rebecca, Lita,  Salik, etc.

 

 

I nearly cried when I saw Buckingham Palace.  I saw Big Ben at sunrise and sunset with coffee in a paper cup ,  seated on a bench somewhere. Always, I would be found reviewing a map.  I would imagine  myself taking the “Tube” as Londoners call their subway,  and visiting the popular London sights.  I also imagined which subways to take to go to the West End to watch Les Miserables and how to find my way back to our hotel.  When I crossed the English channel to go to Paris for the first time,  I was dripping with excitement.  Eiffel Tower was not really much to see the first time i saw it.  I was more awed by the Champ Elysees and the Arc de Triomphe.  By the time I reached Italy,  I could hardly sleep ……… spending my nights planning on how the next day would be spent.  There was just so much to see and so much food to try. I was young then,  and my taste buds were still waiting to discover new cuisine. I can relate to Peter Mayle’s first adventure with  French food.  Even freshly baked bread was new to me then.  I discovered wine and cheese for the first time too.  I even learned which wine glass is for what……..a far cry from those days when my wine glass was good for any wine, red or white , sparkling or not.  More than that,  I discovered what life is all about.  I turned many pages since then.  And my life, as a book,  now counts many chapters and sequels.

 

 

I visited the same sights over and over again. I worked, and worked hard. I saved, and saved good.  I traveled,  and savored every minute.   Through the years I have taken pictures of some favorite sights and found how they now compare.  I will throw in more recent pictures here from time to time , if only to lay down a better comparison between then and now.  The unwanted pounds. The unwelcome lines.  But who cares?

 

Check out the photos and see for yourself.

 

[Read also my TravelBlog site.  ]