Tag Archive: Sapa



This 2023 is a year marked by so many milestones. In a couple more months, we’d prep to welcome a new year and I just can’t wait to give my yearend update! I know, I’m 2 months early but there is just so much to tell. Or write about. Early on, the year started with health travails within the family. Throughout the year, we’ve learned to manage the heartbreaks and inconveniences. To some extent, we even managed to ignore the problems and carried on celebrating life. At this stage, we felt we just can’t skip nor miss, or worse, waste the opportunities. Life will always have its ups and downs. The challenge lies in how we can stay happy. And hopeful.

Half Full or Half Empty? To see or not to see?
Dead of Winter in Early January in Japan

Started the year with a winter trip to Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto. A visiting niece has long wanted and has never been to Japan so I obliged. After all, Japan is always a good idea. Yeah, I was in this land of the sun just last November 2022 and it hasn’t been 2 months yet! And a few months later around spring, I’d find myself back again in the Kansai region with my 2 other nieces. I can’t believe I made 3 trips to Japan in a span of 5 months. Not that I’m complaining. I love Japan.

Trio in Kansai for Sakura
A 3-week trip to Europe

We planned our trip to Europe in between trips to the hospital’s emergency room. One of us got her visa a day before departure. 😩 We were scheduled to arrive late in Amsterdam without a hotel room on our first night. Managed to book a room only from the airport’s departure lounge. All’s well. And the trip turned out to be truly unforgettable with a few mishaps here and there. I traveled with my 2 grandchildren from Amsterdam to Brussels to Brugges to Provence to Paris. The train connections we arranged as we went along.

Up North in Sapa, Vietnam
An unplanned trip to Phuket, Thailand

The trip to northwestern Vietnam was a welcome break amidst all the stress from life’s uncertainties. Never mind that it took 6 hours going from Hanoi to Sapa. If only for the clouds rolling through the mountains carved by rice field terraces, as well as the coffee scene, this trip to Northern Vietnam is worth it. And the impromptu meet-ups in Phuket, Thailand with our OZ branch of the family turned out to be the perfect stress-buster. As they say, when life hands you lemons, make lemonade! Such a lovely time we had basking under the sun and digging our toes in the sand. The holiday resort we stayed in was perfect for us. The resort activities kept us entertained and there was plenty of time to catch up with one another too.

The Grand Homecoming of MC ’73
Reunion

The year 2023 likewise marked the golden jubilee for my college batch. More than 5 decades of friendship. We did well with a yearbook, a beach weekend, trip to a pottery workshop, many luncheons and cocktails, and a lovely video and collage of all our homecoming events. What a blessing to experience all these — reminiscing our teenage years in college and delighting in how we still manage to enjoy each other’s company as we rolled into our 70’s. With some now living abroad, we have missed each other far too long. But it never took that long to pick up where we left off. An old joke persists. An old story repeated countless times.

Degustacion Treat at Metiz
Birthday Lunch at Beso Beso

And the golden jubilarian turning septuagenarian? It all happened in 2023. What a milestone! In our batch, I was the youngest. The last to turn 70. To my elves, I’m ancient. The same elves who treated me to a degustacion in Metiz Restaurant. Not wanting to go home yet after dinner, we lingered at our favorite hotel lobby just chatting till they closed shop. On the very day I turned 70, we had lunch in Beso Beso which translates to “kisses”. A lovely time for the family as we then proceeded to hear Sunday Mass after lunch and indulged in some shopping later, before another family dinner at Made Nice. It was a Sunday, a birthday truly made nice as we stayed together a good part of that day. Quite rare now as everyone gets busy with new jobs, a career, some projects. An opportunity not to be missed. Nor wasted. Memories. Life is a celebration.

Dinner at Made Nice

Happiness

On our last full day in Sapa in Northern Vietnam, a rainbow adorned the skyline amidst the mountain range and terraced rice fields. It’s like a reward for us braving and enduring the more than 6 hour drive from Hanoi just to check out the highest mountain peak, hill tribe folks in Bac Ha Market, glass-bottomed suspension bridge, Ta Phin village with Red Dao herb bath, as well as the lively coffee scene and interesting garden parks in the “boondocks”.

Rainbow in Sapa
Image Sourced from the Net. The Pao Sapa Luxury Hotel where we stayed.

Two of the touristy activities here are visits to the Moana Park beside our hotel or to Heaven Gate and to experience the red dao bath in Ta Phin Village. Not exactly my preferred outings but if you’ve got time, it would be an experience to meet more hill tribe folks who seem quite at home with tourists curious about their costumes and handicrafts. I think the red dao baths would be a good experience. The folks in Ta Phin Village claim these herbal baths have healing powers. Interestingly, each bathing house has its own “family recipe”, with an assortment of medicinal leaves, roots and herbs foraged from the forests.

The Tribal Women from Ta Phin Village
The Healing Baths

Some hotels such as where we stayed offer similar healing baths in a more convenient setting. And you may check out the spas too which combine herbal baths and massage for a total experience. And while you’re checking out the medicinal baths in our hotel, go visit the nearby Moana Park too for some photo opps. 😜

Ta Phin Village is dotted with many red dao
bathing facilities.
This photo opp park is just right beside
Pao Sapa Luxury Hotel.

While the tourists go crazy with healing baths, hill tribe markets and mountain trekking, many locals seem to enjoy these parks offering photo opportunities with a variety of installations like a Balinese gate, suspension or hanging mini-bridges, grand piano scenes inspired by some Korean dramas, art sculptures, etc. Amusing, if you ask me. If it’s not your cup of tea, there’s shopping and the coffee scene! Or simply go around town to visit the church, town plaza and pond.

Moana

The Coffee Scene in Sapa


Back in Manila, we’d schedule our cafe or bar dates at least once a week. The prospect thrills us and the actual experience is always a delight. On our trip to Sapa in Northern Vietnam, we spent an entire afternoon for our post-lunch cafe crawl. We haven’t had a proper dessert since we got here but first off, we just had to try the popular egg coffee and coconut coffee.

Cong Cafe
Coconut Coffee now tops my list of iced coffees

This is our first time to try coconut coffee. Cong Ca Phe is 👍that we recommend it — iced! More dessert than coffee, actually. Back in Hanoi, we tried egg coffee but it wasn’t the best so we went in search of good egg coffee here in Sapa. Found one in Le Gecko. In both coffee shops, we took “front seats” to appreciate the street scene. People-watching can be habitual if I were to live here. The cars and motorbikes with passengers or cargo (unbelievable!) passing by is what life is all about here. Sapa may be 6 hours away from cosmopolitan Hanoi but it certainly isn’t a sleepy town or ghost town. Sure, it’s in the boondocks but commerce and tourism has touched this mountain town and even the hill tribe folks are quite comfortable plying their wares in the streets here.

The street scene from Cong Ca Phe.
Inside Cong Ca Phe

Cong Ca Phe is in a two-storey building, but the best seats in the shop are those in the porch. There is even a resident fur baby who seems so “at home” here. As for Le Gecko Cafe, it’s in another busy section of this mountain town near the pond area. Again, we took the “front seats” from where we enjoyed our egg coffee and an apple crumble pie. So yum! The egg coffee here is more dense, foamy and frothy than the one we tried in Hanoi. So so good that we actually thought of heading back after our dinner!

El Gecko
Egg Coffee
Oh, that apple crumble!

P.S. We actually trooped back the following day for another iced coconut cafe and to try the Cot Dua Com Xanh or Coconut Green Rice Coffee. So so refreshingly good!

Iced Coconut Coffee and Green Rice Coffee

From Hanoi, it took at least 6 long hours to reach Sapa in Northern Vietnam. We traveled by bus although there’s a train option. We passed many rice terraces and cinnamon forests along the uphill route. Lunch was way past noon and we finally arrived at Pao’s Sapa Leisure Hotel late in the afternoon. Well before sunset, thankfully. And without the rains despite the weather forecast.

View From Pao’s Sapa Leisure Hotel
Rice Terraces of Sapa

Honestly, I expected a sleepy, ghost town far removed from the commercial entrapments of city life. We were surprised to find Sapa teeming with tourists — both locals and foreigners. As it turned out, our visit was timed a few days before this mountain town’s Culture Week celebrating the 120th year of tourism. Attracting as many as 2 million visitors , this town in the northern mountainous province of Lào Cai is bursting with preparations for the festivities and art performances of various ethnic groups. The town square where the Church takes center stage was teeming with people and littered with ambulant vendors.

View from our room’s terrace.
8pm Crowd at Town Square

One can feel the energy building up in the tiny stores lining the narrow streets and the mall housing the train station. It reminded us of “Sagada” back home as well as gave us “Baguio vibes”. The costumes from the hill villages provided local color and tribal feel. It took some dodging skills not to be trapped in the thick crowd as we navigated our way through the town square and narrow streets. Music was blaring from the many food shops and bars sitting side by side with massage parlours offering foot, back or whole body massage. Tempting!

Photo Credits: May B.
Sun Plaza in Sapa

We ditched our ride back to the hotel when we decided to walk but eventually hailed a buggy cart for as many as a dozen people to save our energy. We checked out the hotel outlets in search of desserts but only managed to order via room service. Called it a night for next day’s adventure. Let’s see what is in store for us when we next visit the Bac Ha Sunday Market some distance away.

Terrace of the restaurant where we had dinner.
Garbed in local costume, near the Church.

Sapa. The experience begins. 🌸


The Bac Ha Market some 3 hour drive from Sapa totally overwhelmed me. But what’s most interesting isn’t so much what they sell but how the hill tribes of Northern Vietnam have created a community here. The Flower H’Mong, the Phu La, the Black Dao, Tay and La Chi Nhung minorities. How to tell one tribe from another? Don’t ask me 🧐

The forecast was one rainy WEEK, but we’ve been enjoying sunshine since we reached Sapa here in Northwestern Vietnam. On the day we visited this Sunday Market, it was totally humid. The animal trading — horse, buffalo, dogs, etc — wasn’t my cup of tea. So my travel mates and I spent more time in the fabrics/textiles area. Along the way, we passed some organic plants, herbs, nuts and fruits. There was a display of assorted natural “viagra” and the sales pitch is one for the books. We chanced upon a couple on a mission to stock up on a few of these herbs and the entire sales spiel was quite an entertaining spectacle. 😜

Local Color To The Core

The once-a-week market is truly both a community and commercial affair — a social and trading event that has lasted over a century now. It’s a privilege to witness this exotic cultural experience. The open, outdoor market stretches over an expanse that it would be easy to get disoriented. In particular, I enjoyed the local color and flavor such as finding a “barber shop al fresco”. It’s your mobile barber in action! Or a motorbiker with a basket full of chickens. I didn’t have the heart to try horse stew there though. Not for moí. Sorry.

Bac Ha Sunday Market
Barber Shop?

After lunch somewhere within the Sunday Market’s periphery, we headed for the Ban Pho village just a few minutes away. Corn wine was available but I took one sniff of the stuff and promptly avoided it. Must be over 50% alcohol, enough to knock one out after a few sips. If you ask me, you can give this visit a miss. The market is quite interesting even if some of the products can be found in the town and city malls, but the local color and experience cannot be replicated in the more cosmo and commercial spots. Nor the local herbs and ethnic vibes. The locals are also very friendly yet not pushy to make a sale which I like. The “pros” in the city shops give me a headache, actually. I’m glad we came despite enduring 6 hours on the road. Along the way, we also checked out the Vietnam/China Border. Separated only by a river, it’s amazing how these “neighbors” can literally wave to each other across the river. 👋

The Way to Bac Ha Market
Vietnam-China Border